January 19, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
47 
studying the most recent opinions on the 
subject, and being up-to-date. The best 
raisers of the present day prune during 
the first year of planting and others prune 
immediately the Roses have been planted. 
In the first place by shortening the stems 
■ in the act of pruning you save the plants 
a deal of shaking about by the wind during 
winter and you also prevent the long stems 
from evaporating the moisture which the 
mutilated roots "are little able to supply. 
This loss, of course, wouldl be more felt 
j in March than at any other time since 
November. It is quite a mistake, there¬ 
fore, to speak of leaving Roses unpruned 
until April, 1908, as the plants would then 
be furnished with tall stems and weaker 
branches on the top of them and you could 
1 not readily get the plants into good con¬ 
dition without severely punishing them 
with little or no young wood from the 
base to take the place of that cut away. 
Whether you prune actually at planting 
time, or wait till April in the case of bush 
plants, is not a very serious matter, but 
they should certainly Teceive the full com¬ 
plement of pruning in March for H.Ts. 
and H.Ps., and in April next for Ts. It 
is not a severe check to the Roses by 
pruning them at the time of planting be¬ 
cause the roots being mutilated by the 
operation of transplanting any pruning 
; given really balances the loss of the roots 
by removing the upper portion of the 
j. shoots. The roots are then better able to 
| supply the smaller amount of moisture 
' necessary than when they had to keep the 
whole length of the stems fresh. If you 
had had any climbers it would certainly 
have been highly beneficial to' cut them 
down within 18“in. of the ground at plant¬ 
ing time. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
1439. Removal of Trees. 
Would you kindly say if I could with 
safety remove several nice things I am 
wishful to take to a new home, such as, 
Lilac shrubs, Kilmarnock Willows, Ivies, 
Ampelopsis Veitchi, Laburnum, Chrysan¬ 
themums, Carnations, dwarf Sunflowers, 
Delphiniums, etc. (Shrubs, Whitby.) 
According to the law of the land you 
cannot in a private place remove any trees, 
shrubs or bushes, which are reckoned as 
belonging to the landlord. Many tenants 
do not take any notice of this fact and do 
shift or remove various things at their 
pleasure. If the landlord, however, cares 
to assert his right, or to be troublesome, 
it would not be worth your while to take 
away these things against his will. You 
could, however, cut down everything level 
with the surface of the ground, but not 
, disturb or break the ground in any way. 
From that point of view you could take 
cuttings of the various trees and shrubs 
that are likely to grow or even cuttings of 
the plants. If you knew that you were 
about to change your abode last summer 
you could 1 have had specimens of each 
rooted in flower pots and by that means 
vou could have avoided interfering with 
the surface of the soil. Possibly you could 
come to some arrangement with your land- 
l° r d, as the next tenant might want to grow 
flowers or vegetables instead of trees. 
1440. Globe Headed Acacia Trees. 
Can you tell me how to produce those 
globe-headed trees which one sees so much 
in Germany and how long it would take, 
there is. a seedling in the - garden about 
30 in. high which I think could be made 
into one. Likewise there is a seedling 
Laburnum of the same size growing as 
seedlings do just where it will be in the 
way. If I move it now, how lpng will it 
be before it flowers. (Lower IIardres, 
Kent.) 
The Globe Acacia trees which you have 
seen in Germany are no doubt the Um¬ 
brella-headed Acacia (Robinia Pseudacacia 
umbraculifera). Plenty of these trees are 
grown in the neighbourhood of London 
and you could, no doubt, get them in the 
nurseries. They are not produced arti¬ 
ficially either by pruning; or tying. It is a 
distinct variety which is grafted on the 
straight upright stem of the common one. 
This” variety has the habit of producing 
only short shoots which hang down, and 
in the mass form a round head. You 
could allow your tree to get to the height 
of 6 ft. or so, and then get shoots of the 
variety we mention and graft upon it. If 
you are not skilled in this operation you 
can get trees from the nurseryman at a 
reasonable cost under the above name. 
The number of years it will take for your 
Laburnum to come into flower will depend 
upon the growth made by the tree, and that 
again will, to some extent, depend upon 
the fertility of the soil or otherwise. In 
verv rich and moist soil the tree will grow 
rapidly, though it may flower very little 
for some time after it would be capable of 
doing so. In poorer soil the tree would 
not grow so rampantly, but it would prob¬ 
ably come into a flowering state in a fewer 
number of years. We should not expect 
it to bloom until five years of age at least. 
Laburnum trees do flower while still very 
small, but they are trees that have been 
produced by (grafting from those of flow¬ 
ering age. Seedlings of most things can 
only be expected to flower when they have 
reached something like the dimensions 
characteristic of each kind. 
1441. Shrub near a Fence. 
Will you kindly name a suitable tree or 
shrub to plant near the north side of a 
6ft. fence? It is desired to make it a fea¬ 
ture of a small garden, and is not intended 
to grow more than 6ft. high. The soil con¬ 
sists of loam that is moist through the sum¬ 
mer Also kindly name two trees to plant 
one on each side of the path through the 
centre of a small kitchen garden, trees that 
will‘look well when seen from the flower 
-garden. Could you suggest something that 
would make a good edging to grow about 
2ft. high at the back of a bed in which are 
planted bush Roses? (H. W. H.„ Middlesex.) 
Judging from what you say you must not 
fix the plant to the fence, otherwise Ampe¬ 
lopsis Veitchi would have been a splendid 
subject for covering it, as it would fix itself 
and make a beautiful object during the sum¬ 
mer and autumn months. You could, how¬ 
ever, make a trellis of wires and tie the Am¬ 
pelopsis to the wires until the whole of the 
area is furnished. A useful shrub is Euony- 
mus japonicus foliis aureis, which may be 
planted near the fence and form a screen with¬ 
out requiring any support. Quite of another 
kind is a screen that might be formed of 
the White Willow, which could be planted 
at 2ft. apart in front of the fence, and either 
cut down close to the ground every winter or 
allowed to run up with a stem as high as 
you want it and then allow each plant to 
form a head. The shoots can be cut back to 
the main stem every year in March, and the 
growth made during summer will present a 
beautiful appearance. This and some other 
Willows may practically be regarded as the 
best representatives of the Japanese Bam¬ 
boos in this country. We have not suggested 
a flowering plant as the situation is against 
such. Small trees that might be planted in 
the kitchen garden by the side of the paths 
are Acer Negundo variegatum with silver}'' 
variegation, and Prunus Pissardi with purple 
foliage. A beautiful .flowering tree is the 
perpetual flowering Cherry (Prunus acida 
semperflorens), and Mountain Ash is very 
handsome when in flower during May or in 
berry during August and .September. We 
have thus given you a number from which 
you may select which you most prefer. The 
2ft hedge behind the Koses might consist of 
Golden Privet kept down to 2ft. by pruning 
twice a year. Lavender would make an in¬ 
teresting dwarf hedge, and the Old Monthly 
China Rose would make a beautiful hedge 
covered with flowers more or less throughout 
the growing season. The China Rose sel¬ 
dom grows above 2ft. ot 3ft. high. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
1442. Striking Chrysanthemums. 
I should feel much obliged if you would 
tell me if I could strike Chrysanthemums in 
a cold frame for big blooms, and when to 
take the cuttings. -(Constant Reader, 
Sussex.) 
Those who have only a cold frame for strik¬ 
ing cuttings usually put in their cuttings in 
November while the temperature is still fairly 
high. We do not think you will have any 
difficulty in your district, however, to do it 
even now. For big blooms a long season 
is necessary, especially if you have to root 
plants under the natural conditions of the 
atmosphere. In March you certainly would 
have no difficulty. In the' meantime, if you 
have plenty of cuttings you should insert 
them at once. Secure strong healthy cut¬ 
tings and insert them in fairly sandy soil to 
avoid damping. You must also be careful 
with the watering pot until roots are formed, 
and even then little water will be necessary 
till the sun becomes more powerful. Keep 
the frame close till the cuttings are rooted, 
but keep a close eye upon the cuttings to see 
that the leaves are not damping, and if so 
a little ventilation in the early part of the 
day to dry the foliage would be advan¬ 
tageous. As soon as the roots are formed 
you can then pot off the plants singly in 3m. 
pots, 1 keeping them close for a few days until 
the roots take to the fresh soil. See articles 
on Chrysanthemums pp. 26 and 27. 
VEGETABLES. 
1443. Time to Sow Cauliflowers. 
I should be glad if you would tell me when 
to sow Cauliflowers to come in for the first 
week in August. I want them for show. I 
thought of growing Sutton’s Magnum Bonum, 
or would you advise any other sort. (Con¬ 
stant Reader, Sussex.) 
The variety you mention is a very good 
one, and to get it in use during the first 
week of August you could make two sowings, 
the first during the first week of May and 
the next during the third week of that month. 
If properly cared for and planted out as soon 
as ready they should be ready for use at the 
time you mention. We advise two sowings 
for the simple reason that you are largely 
dependent upon the character of the weather 
and by making two sowings you extend the 
same number of plants over twice the length 
of time whatever the nature of the season 
may be. 
1444. Broccoli Leaves Spotted. 
My purple sprouting Broccoli for spring 
use are developing black spots on the leaves. 
Will you kindly tell me the reason and the 
cure? (Waratah, Devon.) 
We are a little in doubt as to what is 
really the matter with your Broccoli. It 
would have afforded a clue, perhaps, if you 
had sent a piece of leaf showing some of 
the spots you mention. It is just possible 
that the Broccoli may have been attacked 
by the Cabbage. Aphis during summer or 
autumn, for this pest may be found still at 
work up to the end of November. If the 
plants were really attacked by that aphis 
you would have seen them only quite re¬ 
cently in the form of patches of mealy look- 
