88 
THE 
GARDENING WORLD 
February 2, 1907. 
We caa only guess at what the spots might 
be, as there are several ailments which at¬ 
tack allied plants. It is just possible, how¬ 
ever, that they may be affected by the clus¬ 
ter cups of some of the Calla family. For 
instance, the common Arum maculatum is 
attacked sometimes by Aecidium Ari, but it 
is just as likely that your plants would 
be attacked by Aecidium aroideum, which 
attacks some plants of the earns family in 
Natal, and may possibly have been intro¬ 
duced here. Your best plan would Ibe to 
burn the worst of the leaves and then spray 
the foliage of the plants with a dilute so¬ 
lution of Condy’s fluid, that is, permanga¬ 
nate of potash. You will he most success¬ 
ful with this if you use it on. the very first 
appearanqe of the spots, should you be 
troubled with it on future occasions. The 
spraying should be done in the morning, 
so that the plants will be dry before night. 
It is just possible the ailment may come 
from the roots owing to a fungus there, but 
without specimens we cannot form an 
opinion. 
1481. Re-potting Geraniums. 
Will you kindly let us know when, to 
snip Geraniums and re-pet them and will 
you let us know in the next issue of The' 
Gardening World? (F. Sam Crook, 
Essex.) 
It very largely depends upon the amount 
of heat you have as to when you should 
re-pot your Pelargoniums (Geraniums). If 
you had a warm greenhouse and wished them 
to flower as early as possible, you could re¬ 
pot them at once, but if you cannot com¬ 
mand the heat even of a greenhouse, it Is 
not much use. to re-pot them till they are 
commencing to grow freely, say, about the 
cad of March. The}' should really have 
been pruned in autumn, when they went 
out of flower, as they commence to push 
up fresh buds immediately, and are more 
advanced than if the pruning is left till 
now or later. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
1482. Additional Flowers for Succession. 
Would you suggest some flowers that 
would be an addition to the under-men¬ 
tioned list for success ion a 1 cutting? I do 
not want anything that needs much care 
in the watering line. Those I have are 
Wallflowers, Van Sion Daffodils, Doroni- 
cums, Aquilegias, Spanish Irises, Esch- 
scholtzias, Poppies (Iceland), Delphiniums, 
Coreopsis, Shasta Daisies, Godetias, Japan 
Anemones, early flowering Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, and Christmas Rcses. I do not want 
expensive plants and bulbs. I am afraid 
Carnations and Roses would want too much 
care. (Ivanda, Staffordshire.) 
We are surprised that you should con¬ 
sider Rcses require a deal of care. The 
chief thing they want is pruning once a 
year and some manure during winter or 
early spring. Carnations require to be 
layered about the beginning of August and 
the new plantation, to be made about the 
beginning of October, and the flower stems 
require staking; With the exception of 
layering, all the other plants will require 
as much attention in the way of weeding 
and hoeing. To the list of plants you al¬ 
ready have you may add such perennials as 
single and double Pyrethrums, German 
Irises, Chrysanthemum King Edward VII., 
C. uliginosum, late flowering Phloxes, An¬ 
tirrhinums, Aster Amellus, A. Novi-Belgii, 
and A. Novae-Angliae, A. difhsus horizon- 
talis, perennial Sunflowers, Solidago cana¬ 
densis. Annuals that would make a useful 
addition to your list are Sweet Peas, Shirley 
Poppies, Candytuft, Mignonette, Erysimum 
perofskianum, double Larkspurs, Viscarias, 
Everlastings, Ten-week Stocks, China Asters, 
and Scabiosa atropurpurea. 
1483. Border and Pergola. 
I wish to ask your advice as to what 
flowers I should grow and where to plant 
them so as to get the best possible effect in 
the garden as shown on the enclosed plan. 
The soil seems very heavy, stodgy, and 
plenty of clay. The gardener who made 
the path in November Last cleared the 
ground, etc., hut I want to lay the garden 
out myself entirely. All "the climbers 
shown on the plan are beginning to bud, but 
are not very thick yet, as they were only 
planted last spring. The ground is fairly 
full of bullhs, Hyacinths, Narcissus and 
Tulips, but they have not appeared yet. The 
Ivy at the bottom is very thick and rather 
old and ragged, and the left-hand bed is 
only about 12 in. wide. I should like rcck- 
work where shown, if you think suitable, 
and a pergola, if it is not too ambitious 
an idea to commence with. (H. C. F., 
Middlesex.). 
The border on the left side is uncommonly 
narrow, and we should have made it the 
widest cine, as it gets most sun, seeing that 
it faces south-west, whereas the other border 
faces north-east. For the narrow border 
ypu Dould get such things as Ten-week 
Stocks, Antirrhinums, Wallflowers, double 
Zinnias, and Indian Pinks. Turning to the 
wide border on the right, we should recom¬ 
mend 1 such things as Daffodils, Scillas, 
Tulips, Primulas, Polyanthuses, Auriculas, 
Evening Primroses, Aquilegias, Doroni- 
curns, Iris germanica, annual or perennial 
Sunflowers, Michaelmas Daisies^ and peren¬ 
nial Chrysanthemums. We do not recom¬ 
mend Pelargoniums, as they would grow 
too much and flower too little in the shade 
of the fence. You could, however, grow 
Calceolarias, tuberous Begonias, Violas, and 
Pansies in that situation. The rockwork you 
mention might very well be made where it 
is mentioned on the plan, and either carried 
right across the garden or made against the 
summer tent, where it would get as much, 
or more, light than where it is marked. 
There is no reason why you should not make 
a pergola at the bottom end of the garden. 
The ragged Ivy on the fence would be hidden, 
if you plant climbers on both sides of the 
walk so as to cover the pergola. In the 
way cf Roses, we should recommend Crim¬ 
son Rambler, Dorothy Perkins, Queen Alex¬ 
andra, and Aimee Vibert. Tall growing 
climbers that would reach the top of the 
pillars and then serve to cover the poles on 
the roof would he such as Aristolochia 
Sipho, some variety of Vine, Hop, Jasminum 
officinale, Forisythia suspensa, and Ampe- 
lopsis Veitchi. A rather interesting blue 
flowered shruib that might be used is Ceano- 
ihus Gioire de Versailles. If these are too 
many to get at once, you should select at 
least some of them. 
1484. Perennials for Town Garden. 
I should, indeed, be grateful for a short 
list of perennials likely to thrive in this 
little backyard. (It is the grossest flattery 
to call it a garden). As my space is so very 
limited, it would perhaps be as well to pur¬ 
chase grown plants of these, rather than 
wait for seeds to grow. Would now be the 
best time to plant? I forgot to mention that 
in front of the house there is a tiny fore¬ 
court, 10 ft. by 10 ft., with two youngish 
(25 to 30 years old) Plane trees in it. This 
I have trenched three spits deep and well 
manured. Could I get a row of Sweet 
Peas along the east boundary? The trees 
have been well cut back, and I have hacked 
out any tree roots I came across when 
trenching. (Je Pense Que Non, Middle¬ 
sex.) 
Perennials that would suit you-r purpose 
are Aquilegias, Doronicum, plantagineum 
excelsum, Iris germanica, I.g. Queen of 
May, I. pallida, I. pallida dalmatica, Pyre¬ 
thrums, Lupinus polyphyllus, Helenium 
pumilum, Chrysanthemum King Edward 
VII., Erigeron speciostis, Aster Amellus, 
and Rudbeckia specic-sa. March would be a 
better time to plant than at present, though 
most of those things we have mentioned are 
very hardy and gcod-natured when shifted. 
We see no reason why Sweet Peas should not 
flower well along the east side of the front 
garden, seeing that it has only a light iron 
fence. You have done well to trench this 
garden, and you will find a mulching to 
the Sweet Peas of great advantage in keep¬ 
ing the ground moist in summer. 
ROSES. 
1485. Cutting Back Climbing Roses. 
I planted to-day W. A. Richardson and 
Dorothy Perkins. Do you cut them down 
now? The W. A. Richardson is about 3 ft. 
and Dorothy Perkins about 8 ft. high. Dees 
the latter grow up a stout stake,, or dees 
it want spreading out? (Roses, Northamp¬ 
ton.) 
You can either cut them down, now or 
towards the end of March, but not later. 
W. A. Richardson we should cut down to 
18 in. and Dorothy Perkins to 2 ft. You 
cannot expect to get Roses from them the first 
year, as climbers require to get established 
before you can expect much from them. 
Dorothy Perkins may be grown as a pillar 
Rose, supported by a stake, but you can get 
more of it by planting against a trellis or 
a stout pole having side limbs to it, if you 
can get one. If you grow it as .a pillar 
Rose, you will have to limit the number of 
stems to prevent crowding, but by using 
something for a support where ycu can 
spread out the stems, you can get a much 
laiger plant and more flowers from it. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
1486. Good Single Chrysanthemums. 
You would greatly oblige me if you would 
give a list of twelve good single Chrysan¬ 
themums in your valuable paper. (Jonquil, 
Grimsby.) 
Beautiful varieties of single Chrysanthe¬ 
mum of good decorative value, and useful 
for exhibition, are Gladys Hemsley (pink), 
Earlswood Glory (white), Eciith Pa gram 
ipink, with white zone), Reine des Rcses 
(deep .pink), Purity (white), Miss Mary An¬ 
derson (white, tinted pink, out of doors), 
Miss Annie Holden (primrose), Winnie 
Sherring (apricot), Ladysmith (pink), Mers- 
tham White, Pretoria (yellow), and Belle of 
Weybridge (chestnut-terra cotta). 
VEGETABLES. 
1487. Kind of Beans. 
Will you kindly let me knew what sort of 
Beans these are, and when is the best time 
to plant them? (F. Sam Crook, Essex.) 
The seeds you sent us are two different 
varieties of Dwarf Beans, otherwise known 
as Kidney Beans and F'rench Beans. Being 
tender after they have commenced growing, 
they must not be sown till the end of April 
out of dcor,Sj but after that you can make 
different sowings at intervals of a fortnight 
till the middle of June. They grow about 
12 in. to 18 in._, according to vigour. 
1488. Preparing a Vegetable Garden, 
I am just taking up a new allotment (made 
out of a wheat field), 10 roods in size. I 
want to grow vegetables and flowers for 
cutting. I thought of Cabbages, Brussels 
Sprouts, Salsafy, Carrot, Dwarf Peas, 
Bread Beans, and Dwarf Beans, with some 
Lettuce and other salading which would be 
a good succession. The soil is of marly 
nature. I should be obliged if you would 
tell me how much manure should be dug in 
when trenching. How many days should it 
take a man to trench it, say, 3 ft. deep? 
I should he grateful for any suggestion as 
