February 2, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
89 
j the amount of rows required of each 
Ihing. The household consists of four per- 
oas. (I vanda, Staffordshire.) 
We are in some doubt as to whether you 
lean an allotment of ten roods or ten rods, 
i. s the difference is great, but you can have 
he ground manured at least at the 
ate of 25 tons per acre, but you may re- 
nember that as the ground is being trenched 
'ind has recently been a wheat field, you 
;ould easily dispose of 50 tons an acre 
j. vithout in the least overdoing it. It largely 
depends upon the fertility O'f your soil. 
V'ou should not use less than 25 tons per 
icre. To trench the soil 3 ft. deep, it would 
certainly be worth 3s. the rod, as it is no 
doubt very much compacted below the sur- 
:aoe. If yo-u employ a man to do it by the 
riece you can work it in that way, but he 
is likely to do it indifferently if you were 
:o pay him badly. The number of rows of 
each vegetable required largely depends 
lpon the laying out of the garden, as the 
iCOWB would be much shorter if the garden 
is divided into squares than if the rows went 
from side to side of the plot. As we are 
also in doubt about your definition of the 
size of the ground, that would also make 
calculation impossible. After the ground is 
trenched, manured, and laid out, you can 
then measure the space at command, and 
devote the largest amount of space to Cab¬ 
bages, Brussels Sprouts, and Peas, the others 
being less important, smaller quantities will 
serve. If the ground consists only of ten 
rods, you have none tco much for four per-', 
sons, if ycu are going to plant all these 
flowers mentioned under the heading of 
" Flower Garden.” If you mean ten. rcods, 
as you say, that would be 2! acres, but we 
doubt that in a piece of allotment ground. 
1489. Spots on Sprouting Broccoli. 
In your last issue you kindly answered 
my question re spot on my Purple Sprout¬ 
ing Broccoli, but wished I should send you 
a sample, which I now do. The spot has 
now turned brown. I have picked and 
burned as many leaves as I could, and shall 
try the spraying. (Waratah, Devon.) 
It would not be of any service to spray 
with quassia, as we recommended on the 
assumption that the spotting was due to the 
Cabbage Aphis. Now that you have sent 
us specimens, we find it is due to a fungus, 
namely, Phyl.losticta Brassicae. Seeing that 
it is now so late in the season, you have 
done best to remove the worst of the spotted 
leaves and to burn them. When the sprouts 
of Broccoli are cut, you should then cut the 
remainder of the leaves and burn, them, to 
destroy the spores of the fungus and there¬ 
by lessen their number for next year. The 
more of the spores that you can destroy this 
yeaV the less ycu should be troubled with 
them next year. If spots appear next year, 
spray with a pale rod solution of Condy’s 
fluid at the first appearance of the spot, and 
again tea days later. 
1 490. V egetables for Exhibition. 
Will ycu kindly do me the favour of help¬ 
ing me out of the following difficulty. I 
wish to show at a local show that will occur 
on August Bank Holiday, and am at a 
loss as to what time to plant the under¬ 
mentioned to have them in perfection by 
this time. Also, what would you recommend 
as the best sorts for this purpose? (Traii.us, 
Essex.) 
Tall l’eas require 16 to 18 weeks from 
the time of sowing till the exhibition. We 
think the middle of March would be suit¬ 
able to sow in the open ground. The Glad¬ 
stone and Duke of Albany would suit. You 
must n'ot sow them too thickly. Cabbages 
require about twenty-four weeks, and if 
you could sow a few in heat in February, 
so much the better. Another sewing may be 
made in the open early in March. Varie¬ 
ties for this purpose are Heartwell Early 
Marrow, Nonpareil Improved Dwarf, and 
St. John’s Day. Walcheren and Eclipse are 
two varieties of Cauliflower that might be 
sown under glass in March, transferred to 
frames and planted out when fit. Varieties 
of Tomatos are Early Prolific, Conference, 
or Ham Green Favourite. You should sow 
seed during the first week of March, in heat, 
pot them off and keep them growing for a 
time, but as the weather gets warmer trans¬ 
fer the plants to a cold frame, and finally 
plant them outside at the end of May. If 
you have a wall, the fruits will ripen, 
better and earlier than in a fully open place. 
For dwarf Beans, you should make a sow¬ 
ing of Canadian Wonder about the middle 
of April in a cold frame, and plant them 
out when fit." You can also sew at the end 
of April in the open air, but even then it 
may be necessary to protect the plants, if 
late frosts should occur. They require 
about fifteen weeks from sowing till fit for 
exhibition. In the matter of Carrots, you 
may sow Scarlet Horn about the end of 
March and Scarlet Intermediate about the 
beginning of March, in the open air. We 
should recommend such second early and 
main crop Pctatos as Snowdrop, Satisfac¬ 
tion, and Windsor Castle, planting them out 
of doors early in March. The best Onion 
for exhibition is A.ilsa Craig, which may 
be sawn at once in heat, grown on first in 
a greenhouse, and then in a cold frame, 
and planted cut some time in April, when 
the weather is settled and warm. The Sweet 
Peas you mention may either be sown in 
March or April, but we have very little 
confidence in April sowings, ,as a warm and 
droughty summer nearly always spoils late 
sawings. In making a March sowing, you 
should take cut deep holes where you in¬ 
tend to sow clumps of Peas. Get some good 
farmyard manure, well decayed or fer¬ 
mented, and mix this with the soil to the 
entire depth of the holes. The ground can 
also be mulched with manure about the be¬ 
ginning of June. This treatment is neces¬ 
sary to maintain the vigour of the Peas till 
August, as in. your county they are usual.lv 
past their best by the middle of July, if 
they have only had ordinary treatment. 
Much depends, however, upon the fertility 
of the soil. Ycur other question next week. 
FRUIT. 
1491. Apple and Pear. 
I am desirous of planting two pyramid 
fruit trees, one Apple and one Pear, in my 
garden at the points marked on the enclosed 
plan. The soil is clayey, and I wish to 
plant on. the lawn. At the marked points 
they would be in sunshine till about 5 p.m. 
from early morning in the summer months. 
The land up till recently has been part of 
a farm, and in cultivation. Are the places 
marked suitable for this purpose? Would 
Cox’s Orange Apple be a good tree, and 
what Pear would you recommend ? I am 
also desirous of planting some Gooseberry 
bushes round edges. Any hints on plant¬ 
ing, etc., will be thankfully received. (W. 
R. S., Essex.) 
The Apple you mention would be suit¬ 
able if grafted’ on the Paradise stcck. One 
of the best Pears you could plant is Doyenne 
du Cornice, which should be grafted on the 
Quince stock. The situations you mark on 
the lawn would be suitable enough, but we 
cannot see any object in planting them in 
such irregular places. If.you intend grow¬ 
ing pyramidal trees, you could get them 
both in a line along the end where the 
Apple is marked. If you have an object 
in view, then we have no fault to find. It 
would be advisable to trench the ground at 
least 2 ft. deep, allowing it to settle before 
planting. Do not plant the trees any more 
deeply than they were in the nursery. Goose¬ 
berry bushes should have a distance of 5 ft. 
between every two. In the spaces marked 
we should not plant them up against the 
fences, unless ycu are going to train them 
on the fences. As the borders are only 
- ft. wide, we should plant the Gooseberries 
along the middle of that spa/ie, that is, 2„ 
ft. from the fence. This bender should also 
be trenched at least 2 ft. deep, the both m 
loosened up, and the ground manured be¬ 
fore planting the bushes, as you can: . 
afterwards disturb the ground to any great 
depth. 
1492. Fruit to Name, 
Would you please tell mo the correct 
name of Apple enclosed? The tree is very 
old, but fairly good cropper. (A. C., bus- 
sex.) 
The Apple is Cox’s Orange Pippin. 
GARDEN ENEMIES. 
1493. Liming Fruit Trees. 
Some Apple trees of mine just coming 
into bearing were seriously affected with 
American blight last year. I washed it off 
with soapy water and brine alternately. I 
am now lime-washing the trees and branches, 
and have been told to put a littie copperas 
into the lime, as it will not only fix the 
lime on the tree and prevent it being washed 
off by the first shower, but that it is a first- 
class insecticide simply and easily obtain¬ 
able. I have commenced with it. Am I 
doing right, and will it do for Currants? 
(Highlands, Kent.) 
Copperas is the same as sulphate of cop¬ 
per, and is used chiefly as a fungicide. II 
employed for insects, it must be for these 
that live by eating the leaves. Now, Ameri¬ 
can blight never does this, and we do not 
think the copperas would be of any use. 
Your best plan would be to scrape off all 
loose bark on the trunks of the trees, and if 
there are swollen portions on the trunk or 
branches all the rough material should bo 
carefully cut away with a knife., and then 
the blighted portions well dressed with para¬ 
ffin emulsion, as described in question No. 
1476, in reference to blight on App.e tree. 
Before commencing operations, you should 
lay a rough cloth on the ground so as to 
catch all the material which you scrape off 
the fruit trees. These scrapings should be 
burned immediately you finish for the day. 
The coating of lime will do no harm, and 
may do some little gccd. 
1494. Epsom Sails and Worms. 
I should feel greatly obliged if in your 
next edition you would kindly state whether 
Epsom salts 'are of any use in clearing the 
garden of insects, worms, and ants. (A Con¬ 
stant Reader, Surrey.) . . 
We have no doubt that Epsom salts wcunl 
be of some use if taken in sufficiently large 
quantity, but insects are like some children 
difficult to persuade to take this kind of 
medicine. Me should also think it rather 
an expensive insecticide, and by no mean ■ 
reliable in its effects. Unless worms are in 
lawns or in flower pots, they do not do any 
harm. You can get rid cf them in these 
cases by using lime water prepared by put¬ 
ting some quicklime into a tub cf water, 
allowing it to stand till it settles, and then 
water tine lawn or the flower pots with the 
clear liquid. Ants may often be destroy cd 
or driven away by sprinkling carbolic a' id 
about their nests and runs, but it may, in 
some cases, harm plants in the vicinity. A 
cure that is said to be very effective consists 
of white granulated sugar mixed with 
powdered Paris green until the sugar 
assumes a light green tint. A little of this 
sugar should be laid on slates near the nests 
and runs of ants, and they will soon get 
destroyed by eating the bait. Me cannot 
give any general remedy that will apply to 
all kinds of insects. It 'is necessary to know 
what they are before you can prescribe any 
remedy. ’ M'e should not recommend you to 
use the Epsom salts, as it would be useless 
