T 02 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
February 9, 1907. 
about them, so the pot or basket selected 
for their reception should only be sufficiently 
large to retain the plant comfortably. The 
compost should be made firm about the 
roots of the plant. The best time to repot 
is when the new roots are being emitted 
from the base of the new or developing 
growth, generally in the spring of the year. 
While, as I have above stated, it is not 
desirable to annually repot, it is advisable 
to overhaul the plants annually. It will 
generally be found that the Sphagnum moss 
will be in an unsatisfactory condition after 
the resting season ; this should be removed 
and replaced by living moss. The back 
bulbs that are useless to the plant should 
be removed, for I consider any growth that 
has performed its function and which has 
no roots of its own to support it, derives 
its sustenance from the younger portion of 
the plant, and thus takes a certain amount 
of the nourishment that would otherwise 
provide for the newly developing growth ; 
and the latter suffers thereby. 
To Increase the Stock. 
This may be done by cutting the rhizome 
between the pseudo-bulbs and breaking the 
plant up when the new growths commence 
to- form their roots. Or any old bulbs that 
have failed to produce flowers, will still 
have retained dormant eyes. These bulbs 
k may be laid several together on a bed of 
sphagnum moss in a propagating case, or 
some other such position, where there are 
warmth and humidity. Another method is 
to cut the pseudo-bulbs into lengths of two 
or three nodes and insert them into a pan 
or pot filled with chopped Sphagnum moss 
and silver sand in the same manner as 
ordinary cuttings and place in a hot humid 
place. "When the growths and new roots 
appear they may be potted separately if 
desired. „ 
H. J. Chapman. 
- +++ - 
OUR “ ALL-PRIZES ” COMPETITION. 
Our readers should note that this 
popular Competition ends with this 
issue, and all competitors must send 
in their solutions by February nth, 
1907. 
-++>- 
Brasso-cattleya Pluto.— The parent¬ 
age of this striking hybrid was C. granu¬ 
losa x B. digbyana. The sepals are 
green and the petals of a creamy green. 
The lip takes after the first-named parent 
in form. The transverse middle lobe is 
slightly fringed and lined with purple on 
a white ground, and the colour is deeper 
on the long claw. Award of merit to 
Major G. L. Holford, C.I.E., C.V.O., 
from the R.H.S., on January 8th. 
The Maidenhair Tree. — In America 
it was long supposed that isolated trees 
of this were entirely unproductive, but 
according to The Florists' Exchange 
several trees that were isolated by many 
miles have borne fruit at different times. 
At Washington, where the curator of the 
Botanic Gardens introduced male and fe¬ 
male trees, seeds are produced in enor¬ 
mous quantity, and these germinate 
freely. 
The Royal Botanic Society has es¬ 
tablished three separate committees for the 
effectual carrying on of their work. The 
Financial Committee will make it their 
duty to look into the affairs of the Society. 
There is also a General Purposes Com¬ 
mittee. This announcement was made at 
a meeting on the 25th ult. 
Fruit Growing 
for Amateurs. ^ 
3. CHERRIES. 
These hardy fruits are popular with 
most people,' and, consequently, are 
largely grown. Amateurs may have a 
fairly lengthened supply by placing trees 
in the open as well as against walls. The 
training of the branches on the latter is 
a very interesting work. 
Approximate Time of Ripening.— 
During a favourable season the earliest 
varieties ripen on walls in the' southern 
counties about June 10th, and on trees in 
the open about June 25th. 
The earlv sorts are followed by the 
medium early which ripen about a fort¬ 
night later. The latest of all turn in near 
the end of July. In northern counties the 
ripening is about ten days or a fortnight 
later. 
Best Positions for Trees. — To obtain 
very early fruit, and a good succession, 
plant as follows:—The earliest variety on 
a south, or south-south-east wall; others 
on a south-west wall, and the latest on a 
north-west wall. 
Morellos always do best on a north 
wall, though they may be grown with 
much success on walls with other aspects. 
Trees grown against walls always bear 
finer fruit than those grown in the open, 
so that if exhibition is the main object of 
culture select favourable positions against 
walls. 
The Best Stocks. —For standards, 
bushes, pyramids, and trained specimens 
for walls, the Cherry stock is the best, but 
the Duke section, such as Archduke, 
Jeffrey’s Duke, Kentish, Morello, Late 
Duke, May Duke and Royal Duke, are 
best on the Mahaleb stock. 
The Best Forms of Trees. — Owing to 
the ravages of birds on unprotected 
crops, large standards should not be 
grown by amateurs, but fan-trained ones 
against walls, bushes, and pyramids. It 
is much easier to protect such trees than 
large standards. 
The Most Suitable Soil. — The 
Cherry is very impatient of stagnant 
moisture in the soil, so that if the ground 
is naturally very wet thorough drainage 
must be affected before any planting is 
done. 
Where the soil is deep and mainly a 
sandy loam draining with pipes will not 
be necessary. A rich loam, inclining to 
sandy is the best for these trees. 
Do not put in too much manure and 
attempt to force the growth else you will 
probably be troubled with gummed 
branches. Wood which is of medium 
strength is the most desirable. 
Planting, and Distance Apart.— 
Any time between the end of October and 
the middle of April planting may be done 
when the soil is in suitable condition, but 
the earlier the transplanting is done after 
the leaves have fallen the better will the 
trees grow the following year. 
Plant in deeply worked but firm ground; 
if the soil is deficient in lime add one 
peck to four square yards.of border well 
incorporating it with the soil. 
Standards, bushes and pyramids should 
be supported with strong stakes. directly 
they are planted, but specimens against 
walls must only have a few temporary ties 
put in as the soil and the trees will natur¬ 
ally settle down considerably during the 
three months following the planting. 
Put on a surface covering, of littery 
manure to make a finish to the planting 
operations. 
Pyramids and bushes on the Mahaleb 
stock should be planted five feet apart. 
Fan-trained for walls 14 feet apart, and 
standards for orchards 20 feet apart. 
SUMMER Culture. —Early in the seasor 
disbudding must be done, that is, young 
shoots, which, if left, would cause over 
crowding, must be entirely removed whilf 
they are young. Other shoots must be 
pinched, that is, a portion of them re 
moved, and again other branches mus 
be laid in, that is, retained thei: 
whole length, especially if they are leading 
shoots. 
Very strong fore-right shoots should b 
pinched out entirely or retained only when 
it is absolutely necessary to lay in sucl 
wood to fill up bare spaces in the trees. 
Some varieties bear very- large leaves 
A yoiitig branch of a Morello Cnerry 
well set with fruit buds. 
