io6 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
February 9, 1907. 
of doors. We could not recommend the or¬ 
dinary frame Cucumbers for out-door cul¬ 
ture. Tomatos may be sown in heat not 
later than the middle of March, in pots of 
light soil. When the plants have made a 
rough leaf or two you should pot them off 
singly in thumb pots, shifting them on as 
they require it. After they have made 3 in. 
to 6 in. of growth or so you could transfer 
them to cold frames for a while, keeping 
them fairly sheltered until they get accus¬ 
tomed to the lower temperature. You can 
then plant them after hardening them either 
in the open ground or against a wall. In 
the latter case they will ripen much earlier 
than in the open ground. Keep them to a 
single stem each, and when they have set 
four to six bunches of fruit the main stem 
should also be stopped. Good varieties for 
outdoor work are Conference, Ham Green 
Favourite, and Early Prolific. 
GARDEN ENEMIES. 
1516. Grubs in Pots of Primulas. 
Some of my Primulas seem in a bad con¬ 
dition, and o.n turning out one I found the 
roots eaten and some white grubs in the 
soil. What cam I do to get rid of them? 
(T. Westman, Lines.) 
It is somewhat difficult to get at grubs 
already inside the pots. They are no doubt ■ 
those of the Black Vine Weevil or the Clay- 
coloured Weevil. The eggs may have been 
laid in the soil that was used for potting 
purposes, or they may have come in the 
manure that was used. It is possible, also, 
that eggs might have been laid even in the 
pots. It is not likely that all of your plants 
will be attacked in this way, but any that 
appear flagging may be turned out for ex¬ 
amination. Some growers have used lime 
water and soot water, but whether that would 
be really effective is doubtful. If the plants 
had been small, it might have been worth 
your while turning out those that appeared 
affected, washing the roots and re-potting 
in fresh soil. If the plants are on the point 
of flowering, we fear it would scarcely be 
worth re-potting them to get rid of the grubs, 
as it would check the plants so much. The 
best plan is to take precautions that no rub¬ 
bish. is left in the house to afford the old 
Weevils shelter. All the cracks and crevices 
in the walls pf the house should be filled 
up with mortar or cement. All the loose 
rubbish of every description not required in 
the house should be cleared away. Indeed, 
tidiness and cleanliness does much to pre¬ 
vent injurious insects getting shelter. You 
could lay some pieces of slate or board about 
in the house every night, and examine them 
in the morning to see if any Weevils have 
lain up overnight, and if so, they should be 
destroyed. 
. _;_ »-jr 
SOILS AND MANURES. 
1517. Lime for Garden. 
I am thinking of giving my garden a good 
lot of lime. Will you kindly advise me 
how much I should give it per yard, and 
which is the best plan — to let the lime slack 
itself, or to slack it with water. (Amateur, 
Somerset.) 
Some cultivators lay lime on the soil and 
leave it in heaps there until it gets slacked 
by rain, but during this process the lime 
absorbs carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, 
and is then not so active as it ought to be. 
Your best plan is to lay it in a heap on the 
soil, pour water over it till it crumbles down, 
then cover the heap with soil to keep the 
atmosphere from changing its character, as 
above indicated. In the springtime, when 
about to sow or plant that soil, you can 
then put on the dressing of lime and rake 
it in. Do not dig it down, as lime soon 
sinks low enough in the soil by natural 
means. We cannot tell you definitely what 
weight of lime would be most suitable, be¬ 
cause you do not tell us anything about the 
character of your soil. If it is heavy you 
can use a good quantity of lime or if it is 
an old garden soil containing much decay¬ 
ing vegetable matter, then it would be ad¬ 
visable and- advantageous to give it a good 
dressing. If your soil is in any way light, 
it will be sufficient to give it a dressing of 
-I,- lb. to 1 lb. per square yard, and this 
need not be repeated till six years after¬ 
wards. If the soil is heavy or contains 
much vegetable matter, you can give a 
heavier dressing even up to 3 lbs. or 4 lbs. 
per square yard, but before applying such a 
dressing it is well that you thoroughly 
understand the nature of your soil. The 
first-mentioned dressing is a safe one. 
MISCELLANEOUS . 
1518. Green Scum on Pond. 
Would you be good enough to inform me 
what is tiie cause of a green scum coming 
on an artificial pond ? What means may 
be adopted for getting rid of it? (Novar.) 
Green soum on water consists of some 
kind of lowly organised vegetable matter or 
plants. It is most likely to increase in the 
case of water that is stagnant or running 
only very slowly. Then, if you can devise a 
means to make the water run more quickly, 
or to renew it at frequent intervals, you 
would not be much troubled with green 
soum. If you have not a large supply of 
water, you could adopt some plan by which 
you could skim the surface of the pond now 
and again to take off the scum. This can 
be done by a broad and flat vessel, which 
you could readily devise by means of a 
piece of tin. If the pond is of any size, a 
good plan would be to make up some Bor¬ 
deaux mixture and dilute it with an equal 
quantity of water, then you could distribute 
this all over the surface of the pond by 
means of a syringe, so that the Bordeaux 
would come in contact with the vegetable 
matter and kill it. The Bordeaux mixture 
may be made up by dissolving 3 lbs. of 
sulphate of copper in wafer. In another 
vessel islake 2 lbs. of fresh lime, pounding 
it up evenly so that it will all pass into 
the water without forming lumps. Then 
put these two ingredients into a vessel large 
enough to hold about 23 gallons of water, 
fill up the vessel, and the mixture will be 
ready except that each gallon should be 
diluted with another gallon of water. If 
you have a vessel large enough to hold 46 
gallons of water, then the mixture would 
be complete and ready for use on the pond. 
There should be no water plants with which 
the Bordeaux mixture would come in con¬ 
tact, otherwise they may be injured. At 
this season of the year, however, the surface 
of the water should be free of plants. 
NAMES OF PLANTS. 
(W. Allen) 1, Libonia floribunda; 2, Be¬ 
gonia fuchsioides.—(J. D.) 1, Senecio 
Kaempferi aureo-maculatus; 2, Hippea- 
strum reticulatum ; 3, Begonia metallica; 4, 
Chlorophytum elatum variegatum.—(Reader) 
r, Pteris cretica cristata; 2, Pteris serru- 
lata; 3, Lomaria gibba; 4, Asparagus mede- 
oloides ; 5, Selaginella circinalis emiliana ; 
6, Selaginella denticulata. (T. Hendry) 1, 
Cupressus pisifera squarosa; 2, Cupresisus 
nutkatensis; 3, Thuya orientalis.—(A. J. W.) 
1, Passtifloxa -caerulea; 2, Solanum jas- 
minoides; 3, Euonymus japonicus foliis 
aureiis; 4, Euonymus japonicus albo-mar- 
ginatus; 5, Olearia Haastii. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Amos Perry, Hardy Plant Farm, Enfield, 
Middlesex.—Japanese and other Lilies; also 
Special Offer of Montbretias. 
Vilmorin-Andrieux and Cie., 4 , Quai de 
la Megisserie, Paris.—General Catalogue. 
W. Atlee Burpee and Co., Philadelphia, 
U.S.A.—Burpee’s Farm Annual. 
James Cocker and Sons, 130, Union 
Street, Aberdeen.—Catalogue of Vegetable 
and Flower Seeds, Bedding Plants, Florists 
Flowers, etc. 
R. Wallace and Co., Kilnfield Gardens, 
Colchester.—Bulbs and Plants for Spring 
Planting. 
George Fredk. Letts, F.R.H.S., Had- 
leigh, Suffolk.—Seed Catalogue. 
Leonard Brown, Great Nelmes Bulb and 
Plant Farm, Hornchurch, Essex. 
- +++ - 
Horticultural Societies’ 
Diary 
of Forthcoming Meetings. 
Abbreviations used. 
A.—Association 
Am.—Amateurs 
Chy.—Chrysanthemum 
c.m.—Committee meetiug 
Cott.—Cottage or Cottagers 
D.—District 
Gardening or gardener 
Thus The Templeton Ct. Am. and i ott. M.I.H.S. 
Gardeners, Amateurs’ and Cottagers’ Mutual Improve¬ 
ment Horticultural Society. 
H.—Horticul tural 
M.I.—Mutual Improve¬ 
ment 
m.m.—Monthly meeting 
S.—Society 
w.m.—Weekly meetiug 
NOTICE TO SECRETARIES. 
Will secretaries of horticultural societies 
kindly s£.nd us at their earliest convenience 
dates of shows and meetings to he held 
during zqoj ? 
February. 
nth.—Horsforth G. M. I. S. (w.m.) ; Sutton- 
in-Ashfield H. S. (m.m.); Hastings, 
St. Leonard’s and D. H. M. I S. 
(m.m.). 
12th.—-Milton and Sittingbourne H. S. 
(m.m.; Society of Jersey Gardeners 
(m.m.); Biddenden Cott. G. M. I. S. 
(m.m.). 
13th.—East. Anglian H. Cluib (m.m.); Not¬ 
tingham and Notts. Chy. S. (m.m.) ; 
Sheffield Chy. S. (m.m.). 
14th.—Woking H. A. (m.m.); Studley H. S. 
(m.m.). 
15th.—Ambergate Cott. G. S. (m.m.); Wey- 
bridge and D. H. S. (m.m.). 
16th.—Leeds Paxton S. (w.m.); Thornton 
Heath and D. IT S. 
Midland Carnation and Picotee Society. 
The 16th annual report, etc., for 1906, of 
the above society, together with schedule of 
prizes and rules for 1907, has been pub¬ 
lished, and may be obtained of the hon. sec¬ 
retary and treasurer, Mr. T. Humphreys, 
Botanical Gardens, Edgbaston, Birming¬ 
ham. This year’s exhibition will be held 
on July 31st and August 1st, at the Botani¬ 
cal Gardens, Edgbaston, prizes and medals 
of the value of about ^130 being offered for 
competition. 
Grand Yorkshire Gala. 
The important and very popular. North 
Country event known as the Grand Yorkshire 
Gala, Floral and Musical Exhibition, will 
be held this year on June 19th, 20th, and 
21st, and at York, as usual. This will ‘make 
the 49th annual show, and each successive 
year it grows in magnitude and in new 
features of attraction,' onj which the various 
committees and the enterprising secretary, 
Mr. Fred Arcy (Davyhall Chambers, Davv- 
gate, York), are to be much congratulated. 
No less than ^800 are being offered in 
prizes. Intending exhibitors, and ..others, 
should send to the secretary for the 'sched¬ 
ule of prizes, just published. We note that 
as 1908 will be the Jubilee of . the Grand 
Yorkshire Gala, the usual schedule, will be 
augmented and ^225 offered in four special 
classes in honour of the event. 
