February 16, 1907. 
THE GARDEN I ISO WORLD 
12 I 
Cape Leadwott (Plumbago capensis). 
you could get some flowers from Jasminum 
officinale in summer and J. nudiflorum in 
winter. We should not advise you to fit up 
a permanent pavilion, because you cannot 
make much use of it in winter, besides which 
it is entirely 'unnecessary. You should ap¬ 
ply to some tent-maker for a small tent that 
could be fitted up in the garden during the 
period of summer, when you would most en¬ 
joy it. It need not be a very high one, and 
of" course can be taken down when dry and 
stored in a lumber room during winter. 
These small tents are often used for such a 
purpose. 
1523. Starting Gladioli. 
Will you kindly tell me the way cf treat¬ 
ing Gladiolus brenchleyensis, G. Lemoinei 
and Hyacinthus candicans. The soil here is 
very heavy. Should I start them in pots ? 
If so, when? Can I do anything to the 
bulbs to keep away garden pests. In treat¬ 
ing this heavy soil for Sweet Peas, should 
I dig in superphosphate of lime, or any 
ether chemical? I have dug in stable 
manure and a little scot and lime. (Whitto, 
Surrey). 
You can start the plants you mention by 
potting them up now and standing them in 
a greenhouse or some other structure having 
a moderately high temperature. They will 
start away earlier than if they were planted 
out of dcors. They will come along slowly, 
so that you can plant them in the garden 
some time in April when the weather is 
sufficiently mild and settled. In the mean¬ 
time you should have the ground well dug- 
and manured if that has not already boen 
done. You can improve the soil by adding 
quantities of road sweepings for the sake 
of the grit they contain. We should not treat 
the bulbs in any way for the purpose of 
keeping away pests. Put some clean sand 
beneath and over them when planting. Stable 
manure will improve your heavy soil 
considerably. You can also add road 
sweepings in quantity, digging them in¬ 
to the top ispit. After this has been 
d)one you can gi\p a dressing of 
superphosphate of lime and kainit. You 
could also give a dressing of nitrate of 
soda, but that would be better put on in 
two applications, the first - some time after 
the Sweet Peas appear 'above ground. This 
latter artificial manure would help the Sweet 
Peas in the early part of the season in your 
clayey soil. 
1524. St. Brigid Anemones. 
My St. Brigid Anemones have been cut 
down with the frost. Will they throw up 
fresh leaves and come into bloom all right? 
They were planted in September. (Whitto, 
Surrey). 
If your plants have not been too hardly 
hit with the recent frost they should throw 
up a fresh set of leaves in March and April 
and flower at that time. The plants are per¬ 
fectly hardy, but it sometimes happens that 
if they are urged into growth by mild 
weather early in the year they get more or 
less checked later on. If yours were only 
planted in September there should still be 
plenty of latent growth in them. 
WATER GARDEN. 
" . / 
1525. Aquatics for Small Pond. 
I am making a small pond in the centre 
of my rock garden, which will be about 
4 yards long and 2 yards broad, and about 
a foot deep. What I should like to know 
is what you would recommend me to plant 
in the way of aquatics. I should like two 
Nymphaea alba and two of the red variety. 
Perhaps a dozen plants would be enough. 
I may say this little pond will be much shel¬ 
tered from cold winds, but not shaded from 
The 
Gape Iieadwort 
(Plumbago capensis). 
+++ 
There is one hardy Leaclwort, though 
it can scarcely be considered ornamental. 
Most of the others are shrubs hailing from 
countries considerably warmer than our 
own, and require the protection of a green¬ 
house or stove, according to their coun¬ 
try. The Cape Leaclwort is very nearly 
hardy, and may be kept in-a greenhouse 
whether heated or not. It is also so ac¬ 
commodating that anyone can grow it if 
they study the subject of pruning to keep 
it within bounds and yet get a large quan¬ 
tity of light blue flowers from it every 
year: 
The largest quantity of blossom is ob¬ 
tained from plants grown in a bed of the 
greenhouse, that is, planted out. Those 
who have a greenhouse or conservatory 
should therefore select a situation where 
the flowers would .be seen to advantage 
and the plant not be in the way of other 
subjects grown in the house. The end of 
a greenhouse or the doorway is a splendid 
situation, so' that the plant could be 
trained over the woodwork or round the 
doorway. By having a few wires stretched 
the sun. With your list of plants a few hints 
on their cultivation would oblige. (J. L., 
Dirleton, N.B.) 
You could get the common white Nym¬ 
phaea alba and its rose variety, N. a. rosea, 
but we fear the latter is rare. Your pond is 
rather shallow to grow those two with much 
success as the leaves would be inclined to 
stand upright out of the water after the 
plant gets stro’Tg. Dwarfer plants and more 
easily accommodated are N. cdorata rubra, 
N. o. pumila and N. pygmaea helveola. 
Other plants that you might get are Sagit- 
taria variabilis fiore pleno, S. sagittifolia, 
Japanese Iris (I. laevigata), yellow Flag (I. 
Pseudacorus), Buck Bean (Menyanthes" tri- 
foliata), Flowering Rush (Butomus umbel- 
latus). Plants that like rather less water, 
and conditions similar to that of a bog, are 
Spiraea palmata, Trollius europaeus, Mimu- 
lus guttatus, M. luteus, Primula japonica 
the shoots can be tied up with regularity 
without having to drive nails into the 
woodwork of the structure. 
When the plant is first put out the culti¬ 
vator should select the leading stems and 
tie or fasten them in at regular distances 
apart. In the course of a few years these 
stems get strong and give off numerous 
side branches, but after the plant has 
flowered the side branches may be cut 
back to a bud at the base, thus reducing 
the plant annually to the main stems. 
The flowers are produced at the end of 
the shoots and twigs of the current sea¬ 
son, so that there is no danger of loss of 
bloom if the plant is hard pruned late in 
the autumn after flowering has completely 
ceased. During the winter months the 
buds will be preparing to start in spring 
with the rise of temperature. 
With the exception of watering and 
tying the larger stems and shoots, the 
plant needs very little attention if kept 
clean by frequent syringing during the 
growing season. The accompanying illus¬ 
tration shows rnerelv a small flowering 
spray, but a good sized plant gives a re¬ 
markable quantity of blossom. Young 
plants of this Leadwort may also be used 
with fine effect in the flower garden both 
in the form of low bushes or as standards, 
which keep on flowering through a great 
part of summer. 
and Caltha palustris flore pleno. Your best 
plan would be to grow these things in pots 
and plunge the first lot more or less under 
water. The top of the pot need not be much 
more than simply covered with water. In 
the case of the last half-dozen plants you 
should stand uiem on inverted pots in the 
tank, so that the bottom of the pots in which 
they are growing just touched the water 
sufficiently to get a supply of moisture. 
Fibrous lcam with a little leaf mould and 
well-decayed cow manure and sand will 
make a suitable compost. The pots should 
be well drained. During the winter the best 
plan would be to remove all of the pots, 
placing them in a cold frame. By that 
means you will save the pots from getting 
broken when the pond freezes in winter. 
We think you have scarcely depth enough of 
water to leave the pots in it with safety 
during winter. In the case of the Nym- 
