122 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
February 16, 1907. 
phaeas you might grow them in shallow 
wooden boxes, Which you could stand on the 
bottom of the pond and thereby give the 
Nymphaea leaves the benefit of a consider¬ 
able depth of water. During the summer it 
will be necessary to keep the surface of the 
water clean both for the sake of the plants 
and the appearance of the pond. 
ROSES. 
1526. Blooms and Buds Dropping. 
I have a standard Rose, Germaine Tro- 
chon, planted in November, 1905. It 
bloomed last June, but both blcoms and buds 
with portions of the stem attached fell off 
on being touched. Can you say what was the 
cause of this and what means I can adopt to 
prevent the same next summer ? The tree 
is sheltered on the .north by a wall, on the 
east by a house, gets plenty of sun, the soil 
stiff with a clay subsoil, and had a top dres¬ 
sing of farmyard manure in the autumn 
forked in in the spring. (Banbury, Oxon.) 
We think your Roses dropped probably be¬ 
cause they had got scorched with the heat 
of last summer owing to the plants having 
been planted so recently. Another suggestion 
which we should make is that the stems 
had been eaten partly through by some 
insects or that the stems had got can¬ 
kered owing to some injury. This is 
a matter; that can be better deter¬ 
mined on the spot than afterwards. If the 
dropping of the buds was due to the deficient 
root system, you should not have anything 
of that sort during the forthcoming summer. 
The necessary pruning should be given dur¬ 
ing the last fortnight of March, but as a 
wall or trellis Rose the stronger stems should 
be left 6 ft. to 7 ft. long, and side branches 
either reduced to 9 in. or removed altogether, 
if crowded. Gloire de Dijon and its allies 
are often rather early in spring, and get 
their buds injured with late frosts and dry¬ 
ing east winds. That refers only to the 
first crop of bloom. 
1527. Manures for Roses. 
Are artificial manures as good for Roses 
as farmyard or stable manure? If .so, which 
do you recommend? (Banbury, Oxon.) 
Even those who grow Roses for exhibition 
depend .meetly upon farmyard manure for 
growing their Roses, artificial manures being 
used as a supplementary manure. Horse 
manure is the best for heavy soils and cow 
manure for light soils. In this latter case 
pig manure is often better if you can get 
it. You can also give a dressing of half 
or quarter inch bones when preparing the 
soil. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
1528. Backward Cuttings. 
My Chrysanthemums seem very slow about 
throwing up new shoots; for instance, Pre¬ 
sident Nutting, Exmouth Rival, Mrs. G. 
Mileham, etc. They are in a cold house. 
Should I put them in heat, or shall I get 
snoots later on? (Ealing, Middlesex.) 
If you intend to get flowers for exhibition, 
you require to get cuttings at the earliest 
possible moment, and we should recommend 
you to put them in a warm house, but close 
to the glass, to prevent them from getting 
drawn. We cannot understand why your 
plants should be so late in throwing up cut¬ 
tings in a greenhouse, because many of them 
in the open air have had cuttings on them 
for the past two months or more. In any 
case you will require cuttings during March 
for those varieties. “ Chrysanthemums : A 
Manual for Exhibitors and All Growers,” 
by R. Barnes, and obtainable from this office 
post free for 2s. 2d., will give you a deal of 
information on the subject. 
VEGETABLES. 
1529. Preparing a Vegetable Garden. 
As you surmised in reference to Question 
1488, it was ten rods I should have said in 
my enquiry. I now enclose plan, thanking 
you for your former reply, and would be 
obliged for further advice. Do you think 
the suggested arrangements good? I have 
divided it into six nearly equal parts, and 
propose moving on two each year so that A 
will come at C next year. The end piece 
I shall keep where it is. How many plants 
of Rhubarb would 1 require, also what is a 
good red kind ? How many Artichokes will 
be required ? Are the following good varie¬ 
ties :—Beans, Bunyard’s Exhibition; Peas, 
William Hurst and The Sherwood; Potatos, 
Myatt’s Early Ashleaf; Dwarf Beans, Ne 
Plus Ultra? The Celery, Leeks, etc.', I 
shall buy as seedlings, and I can get plants 
of Brussels Sprouts, Savoy, Winter Kale, 
Purple Sprouting and Safeguard Broccoli. 
Will these give me a succession? (Ivanda, 
Staffordshire.) 
Judging by the plan, you make a very 
fair division and arrangement of the kitchen 
garden, but we should like a slight altera¬ 
tion, so as to favour the keeping of certain 
vegetables together for the purpose of rota¬ 
tion. For instance, you mention Brussels 
Sprouts, winter Greens, and other members 
of the Cabbage family that you have scat¬ 
tered more or less over all the sections. 
Now, if you would confine these things to 
one separate piece or division, you could 
shift them on to entirely fresh ground in the 
following season. Our plan would be to 
fill division A entirely with Potatos, 2 ft. 
from row to row. In the ground allocated 
to them you should plant 13 rows and at a 
foot from set to set you would require 481 
sets. Besides those you name, we should 
also plant Sir John Llewelyn as a second 
early. In division B we should plant Broad 
Beans, Dwarf Beans, Leeks, and Celery. 
The Dwarf Bean you mention is an excellent 
one, but finer pods are produced by Canadian 
Wonder, if you want to exhibit. The Broad 
Bean should answer your purpose. Division 
C we should plant with Brussels Sprouts, at 
2J ft. apart; also, Broccoli, Savoy, Winter 
Kale, and other greens you may grow. This 
is a slight alteration on your plan, and our 
object for this is that during the next year 
the Beans on section B may be transferred 
to section C, previously occupied with Brus¬ 
sels Sprouts. We think this a better plan 
than transferring the Broad Beans in sec¬ 
tion C into section D, which you propose 
to occupy with Peas this year. The Beans 
and the Peas belong to the same family, and 
you can scarcely get the best results by mak¬ 
ing one follow the other in two succeeding 
years. We quite agree with you in sowing 
early and late Peas in section D. Both the 
varieties of Pea you mention are early, and 
you cannot get a succession, although they 
are good varieties. You can use either one 
of those you mention or else get English 
Wonder, which crops rather more heavily. 
Then, for a second early," you could get 
Gradus, and for a main crop Pea Autocrat. 
If you select English Wonder 'for the early 
variety, it should be sown in lines 1^ ft. 
apart. The others will require 3 ft. between 
the lines. On the ground you have you 
could get four rows of early Peas, three rows 
of second earlies and four rows of late Peas. 
Next year you can shift the Peas from sec¬ 
tion D to section A, and move the others one 
division forward, just as you propose. In 
section E you will require to plant the Arti¬ 
chokes 3 ft. apart each way, or as near as 
possible; plant four roots in each row; you 
will thus require thirty-six plants. Salsafv 
and Beet may be grown in the space marked, 
and Onions also in the space marked. Red 
Cabbage we should be inclined to plant 
along with the other greens, as it is a better 
plan to keep shifting all the Cabbage tribe 
to fresh ground each succeeding year. Vege¬ 
table Marrow may be grown where marked. 
Hawke’s Champagne is a good variety' of 
Rhubarb, as the stalks are red all through. 
On the plan you will require five rows, 
running across the area, and four plants in 
each row, thus making twenty, but as this 
part of the ground is unequal sided you 
will require three more to fill out the corner. 
FRUiT. 
1530. Vegetables Amongst Currants and 
Gooseberries. 
Last August we moved into a fresh house, 
which is newly built, and you can imagine 
the garden. I worked ail my-spare time in 
planning, digging, and turning it over and 
over again. I also had five or six cartloads 
of mould, which I mixed as well as I could, 
the soil here being somewhat clayey. I have 
had a lot of Currants and Gooseberries put 
in rows, and I want to know if I can put 
such things as Turnips, Parsnips, Onions, 
etc., down the rows, and whether it would 
be injurious to one or the other. (The 
Novice, Essex.) 
As Currants and Gooseberries are the most 
important subjects on the ground you men¬ 
tion and take the longest time to get to 
fruiting size, they must have the first place. 
You can, however, grow those plants you 
mention between the rows, as well as Straw¬ 
berries, salads, Parsley, or any dwarf grow¬ 
ing subjects that would not shade the Goose¬ 
berries and Currants. While the latter are 
young, their roots will not extend far,- so 
that you can dig and manure the ground 
for the vegetables or Strawberries, and as 
the Gooseberries grow to occupy the ground 
you must gradually reduce the area of vege¬ 
tables between the rows, and finally cease 
planting them altogether. 
1531. Grape Vine. 
Will you kindly let me know the right posi¬ 
tion for the rods, above or below the wires, 
mine being above; and, having a large one, 
I do not quite know how to proceed in clean¬ 
ing the rods and generally cleaning and re. 
painting the house? (J. Welch, Middlesex.) 
We cannot quite see the object in having 
the Vine rods above the wires, as you can¬ 
not move the rods up and down as you state. 
It would be worth your while removing some 
of the lower wires, so that you could take 
the rods out beneath the wires, sa}', at the 
bottom of the house. The wires could then 
be replaced or fixed, and the rods tied up 
beneath them after they are cleaned. It will 
be necessary, of course, to prune the Vines 
before you attempt to get them from under¬ 
neath the wires, but we think it possible to 
do this by undoing only a few of the lower 
wires. 
1532. Melons in Greenhouse. 
I should like to grow Melons this year, 
but am afraid I have not heat enough to 
grow the large variety, but have been think¬ 
ing of trying Munro’s Little Heath Melon. 
Can this variety be grown in an ordinary 
greenhouse, and is the fruit of good quality- 
A few hints on culture would greatly oblige. 
(New Reader, Staffordshire.) 
You would require to have some means of 
raising the temperature, at least during the 
spring months, to get the plants well ad¬ 
vanced. For this purpose you could make 
up a hrtbed about the middle of March, and 
