February 23, 1907. 
137 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
..hinus Molle, as it is widely planted in. 
untries where it succeeds in the open an, 
sides being grown in hothouses in botam- 
1 gardens in this country. It is really a 
itive of 'tropical America, and would, ot 
urse be found both in the northern, as 
ill as the southern, half of that continent, 
here the climate is suitable. Besides the 
ape Gooseberry, we have other instances, 
ch as Ligustrum ovalifolium, a native of 
pan, being called Californian Privet; and 
huva cccidentalis, a native of North 
merica and known in this country as 
merican Arbor Vitae, yet in North America 
(self it is known as the Siberian Arbor 
itae. There is no accounting for these 
igaries. 
— 
COLD FRAMES. 
143 . Violets with Mildew. 
I have same Violets in frames, and I shall 
, very glad of some advice concerning 
,em. They are the frames placed on a 
ight hotbed and then filled to within 6in. 
: °the glass with loam and .manure. The 
iolets were planted and they appeared to 
; all right for a week or two. Suddenly 
ley became very mildewy, and in spite of 
(eking it off and stirring up the soil they 
mtinued to die wholesale just as a plant 
ould when kept without water. What can 
do with them? I have had a great amount 
E experience with Violets, but never had 
jther with them before. Can I lift some of 
ie best plants and replant in a sheltered 
|:osition under a wall and then cover with a 
-ame? I may say it lies very damp here, 
hese Violets are also infested with red 
aider, and some of the manure was rather 
-esh when placed in the frame. I would 
3 glad to know of about four gcod varieties 
| jr frame work. The sorts in question are 
farie Louise and a single variety. What 
ould be a good double white variety? 
Anxious Enquirer, Soms.) 
During autumn and winter Violets are 
abject to attack from various fungoid 
iseases, but without specimens we cannot 
'ell determine what it is. Judging from 
our experience, however, the best plan 
fill be to burn all mildewed leaves and also 
re whole plant where it appears to be 
• ying. Some of the remaining plants may 
ive flowers later on, but we fear they are 
! ntirely doomed. Violets are very liable to 
nfestation from red spider also, but they 
, hould have been well syringed with strong 
oapsuds or Gishurst compound in the au- 
umn. The latter, in cur opinion, would be 
he most effective. This would prevent the 
ed spider from getting a footing in the 
rames, but the remedy can be applied again 
ifter they are planted in the frames if the 
■peration is performed on the morning of a 
ine day, so as to get the plants well daried 
efore night. If a number of the plants 
.ppear healthy you might, with the object 
f saving them, syringe them with a solu- 
ion of sulphide of potassium and water at 
he rate of ^ oz. to the gallon of water, 
ifter they cease to give you any flowers the 
vhole should be destroyed and neither soil 
lor manure used again for growing Violets. 
'ven the frames should be well washed in- 
ide and out with paraffin and water before 
ising them for Violets. Four of the best 
■arieties that we can recommend for frame 
ulture are Comte de B.razza (double white), 
Neapolitan (double lavender-blue, flowering 
n winter), La France (single deep blue and 
ragrant), and Princess of Wales (violet- 
ilue, single, fragrant, and one of the 
argest Violets grown). 
544. Hardy Ferns Not Succeeding. 
I am very fond of Ferns, but they do not 
ucceed well in our garden. Could ycu give 
ne some directions by which I could grow 
he healthy green plants I have seen in some 
gardens not far from here? Could I grow 
them in a cold frame? (A. Johnson, Herts.) 
You should, in the first place, select a 
shady situation in your district, but not 
where they would be overhung by too dense 
a covering of trees, otherwise the rain would 
be thrown away from them. The soil could 
then be largely mixed with peat and leaf 
mould, which would help to retain the 
moisture about the roots during summer. 
You could, of course, readily grow hardy 
Ferns in a cold frame, but except the choicer 
kinds, it would hardly be worth your while 
occupying frame space with them. In the 
case of very choice varieties and also the 
small growing types of Fern, it would be 
well worth your attention to adopt frame 
culture. The larger kinds would require a 
considerable amount of frame space as the 
fronds would grow 3 ft. or 4 ft. long if 
planted out in good soil and kept moist. 
1545. Cucumber in Cold Frame. 
Can you tell me if it is possible to grew 
a Cucumber plant in a cold frame, and if 
so, please name the most suitable variety. 
Is- heat necessary to raise the seeds, or will 
the heat of the frame be sufficient ? Are 
the long Cucumbers difficult to ,grow ? 
Some particulars about cultivation would 
be appreciated. (E. A. Wentworth, 
Essex.) 
Cucumbers are frequently grown with 
success in cold frames, but fermenting 
manure is placed in the frames in spring 
to give them the necessary temperature in 
spring and early summer. If you can make 
up a bed of sufficient depth, say 4 ft. or 
5 ft. at the back, you could raise the seeds 
■ on that, and afterwards plant them out in 
the frame, after the plants have attained 
some size. The frame could, of course, be 
utilised at the same time for various other 
plants raised from seed. The best Cucum¬ 
ber for this purpose is Telegraph. When 
about to plant out the Cucumber, place a 
good heap of rich fibrous loam on the top 
of the manure and plant the Cucumber on 
that. When it has taken to the soil, pinch 
the top for the purpose of getting a number 
of side shoots. These may be directed into 
different parts of the frame so as to occupy 
the space. During warm weather in sum¬ 
mer it will be necessary to syringe the 
Cucumber frequently to keep the foliage 
clear qf red spider. A thin shading of tif¬ 
fany wouldi also enable you to retain a 
greener appearance on the fruit. 
ROOM PLANTS. 
1546. Hyacinths in Glasses. 
I have Hyacinth bulbs .growing in glasses. 
The roots are very numerous and thick. 
Ought I to renew the water or only to fill 
up as it gees down. How often should it 
be done? Is a pinch of Clay’s fertiliser 
any use in the water, if so, how often 
might it be applied? (N. E. C., Kent.) 
Some people who grow Hyacinths in 
glasses put some lumps of charcoal into the 
water before placing in the bulbs. This 
has the effect of keeping the water sweet 
by absorbing various gases and impurities. 
At the .same time if you choose to do so, you 
could renew the water each week or ten 
days, merely laying the flowers on one hand 
to prevent them falling cut, while the other 
tilts up the glass to run the water cut. 
About half a teaspeonful of the manure you 
mention may be used each time you renew 
the water until they come into bloom. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
1547. Giant Hemp. 
Would the giant Hemp grow outside here? 
If so, where could I get a few seeds from? 
(S. Jones, Lancashire.) 
You should have no difficulty in getting 
seed of the giant Hemp by applying to any 
good seedsman advertising in “ The Gar¬ 
dening World.” Most of them keep Hemp, 
as it is frequently grown in the south. 
Sou should succeed with it in your dis¬ 
trict, provided the land is not very much 
above sea level, because, if elevated, the 
wind would be against a vigorous growth of 
the plant. In that case you should select 
a sheltered situation for it. You may not 
be able to grow the plants so tall (it the 
situation is elevated), as they do about Lon¬ 
don, for instance, but, nevertheless, we 
should have little fear of growing quite re¬ 
spectable specimens even further north than 
you. Sow the seeds in heat and grow the 
seedlings till they are some inches high be¬ 
fore planting them out at the end of May. 
1548. I.ilium auratum. 
Last March I planted a Lilium auratum, 
which flowered in September (grown entirely 
out of doors), in a 12 in. pot, but I learn 
from your valuable paper that they should 
only be in 6 in. or 8 in. pots. M ould it be 
safe for me to disturb it and place it in the 
smaller size, and when? (Spider, Milts.) 
The size of pot depends chiefly upon the 
number of bulbs you intend placing in it. 
Me should never have thought of placing a 
single bulb in a 12 in. pot. If, however, 
it is still alive and well, there may be a 
number of bulbs instead of one. At the same 
time the repotting should have been done 
when the stems died down. It is quite pos¬ 
sible that the bulbs have started into fresh 
growth, and if that is so, it is a bad plan 
to disturb Lilies. You should remove the 
top soil carefully in order to ascertain how 
•many bulbs there are, and if they have 
started into growth or not. The usual plan 
with this species is to put one bulb in a 
5 in. or 6 in. pot, and three bulbs in an 
8 in. pot. For other information see an 
illustrated article on “ Potting Lily Bulbs,” 
next week. 
1549. Collection of Lilies for Pot Culture. 
I wish to make a collection of Liliums 
this spring, and would you kindly suggest 
the most suitable to grow in this house. I 
have some good sunny windows. Perhaps 
there a,re some garden varieties of Lily 
which would grow equally well indcors. 
(Spider, M T ilts.) 
A very large number of Lilies can be 
grown in; pets and used for greenhouse 
decoration, but we do not think you would 
be very successful in flowering Lilies in a 
dwelling house, if that is what you mean 
by growing them indoors. M'e would ad¬ 
vise you to pot them up and grow them on 
in the same way as you did L. auratum last 
year, and bring them into the house when 
in blocm. The varieties we advise for pot 
culture are Lilium auratum, L.a platyphyl- 
lum, L.a. M’ittei, L. speciosum, L.s. Kraet- 
ze.ri, L.s. Melpomene, L. Henryi, L. longi- 
florum Harrisii, L. Brownii, L. japonicum, 
and L. rubellum. All of these are quite 
distinct from one another, so that you should 
get some or all of them, as you feel in¬ 
clined. 
1550. Plants and Ferns for Sunless Bed. 
Could )'ou give me the names of some 
plants or Ferns that will grow where they 
never get any. sun and the soil is damp? 
The enclosed sketch shows the situation of 
the bed. (E. P. Bisley, Kent.) 
Any of the stronger growing hardy Ferns 
would suit the situation indicated, as they 
like a fair amount of shade and plenty of 
moisture. A few choice forms of the 
stronger types of Ferns are Lastrea Filix- 
Mias paleacea cristata, the Lady Fern, or a 
fine variety cf it named Athyrium Filix- 
foemina Victoriae, Scolcpendrium vulgare 
crispum, Polystichum angulare proliferum, 
and P. aculeatum. All of these are strong 
growing Ferns and handsome in their way. 
Some flowering plants that might be planted 
along the front or-outer edges of the bed 
are London Pride, MYodruff, Double 
Daisies, Primroses, Polyanthuses, and St. 
John’s M'ort (Hypericum calycinum). 
