ISO 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
The Flower Garden. 
Nitro-Culture. 
I was rather interested in the recent para¬ 
graph referring to microbes in the soil, for 
it so happens that I intend using the Ameri¬ 
can nitro-culture for my Sweet Peas this 
season. These microbes are dried on cotton 
wool, but I am sorry to say they will cost 
me more than twopence an acre. Accord¬ 
ing to my information, it costs at least six 
shillings to inoculate an acre of land even 
in America. It should be understood, how¬ 
ever, that this nitro-culture is prepared for 
certain crops ; that is to say, a different 
form of microbe is given to each species of 
plant. There are microbes for Clovers, mi¬ 
crobes for Beans, microbes for Peas, and so 
on. The subject is certainly very interest¬ 
ing, and I shall watch my Sweet Peas very 
closely. 
Sweet Peas. 
Sweet Peas are rather slow to germinate 
this season, and some varieties more so than 
others. .Much depends upon where the 
seed was raised. In the north, a great deal 
of rain fell last season, whereas in the south 
and Midlands the drought was very pro¬ 
nounced. Hot weather and dry soil affect the 
seed by making it tougher, and therefore 
slower in germinating. Some of the Cali¬ 
fornian seed is exceedingly hard, and I have 
oftentimes had to file the outer skin to 
hasten germination. Where the seedlings 
are above the soil, do not on any account 
keep the frames closed, except in bad 
weather. Lack of air and' insufficient light 
draw the seedlings very quickly. 
Tender Annuals. 
Warm frames may now be brought into 
use for raising the more tender annuals. I 
do not, however, advocate too early sowing, 
unless one has facilities for growing under 
cover for a time. Seeds germinate very 
quickly on a hotbed, and soon require 
pricking out into other boxes. It naturally 
follows that newly pricked-out seedlings 
need protection, so that unless one has ad¬ 
ditional frames to take the increased num¬ 
ber of boxes, sowing had better be delayed 
for awhile. One may frequently see boxes 
of Asters and Stocks outside a greengrocer’s 
shop at the end of March or early in April. 
These, of course, have been forced on under 
glass, and to the average amateur are utterly 
useless. Personally, I would rather rely 
upon an outdoor sowing early in April than 
purchase these miserable plants offered at 
such a time. 
Seed Sowing. 
If sowing is done now, a start should be 
made with half-hardy annuals, and biennials 
and perennials that will flower this season. 
The general run of biennials and perennials 
should be sown out of doors any time after 
April. For sowing under cover, boxes or 
shallow pans should be used 1 , and the soil 
must be fairly light or sandy. Fairly 
large seeds like Asters should be sown very 
thinly. Indeed, it pays to sow them singly, 
and so obviate early pricking out. Tiny 
seeds like Nicotiana, Lobelia, Musk, etc., 
should be. sown as thinly as possible, and 
no covering of soil be given. When raising 
these tiny seedlings a piece of glass over 
the pan is essential. Germination is 
hastened if a piece of paper is laid over the 
glass. It also prevents scorching through 
sunshine. Keep the frame closed until the 
seedlings appear, after which a little air 
must be given. 
It must not be imagined that a hotbed 
and frame is only suitable for the purpose 
I have named. 
Begonias. 
Such tender things as Begonias and the 
like will germinate and come along nicely if 
the temperature hovers between 55 and 60 
degrees. Having no other facilities, I al¬ 
ways start my Begonia corms in a frame, 
and as a rule do well with them. Some 
roots of course are slow to start, but one has 
the same difficulty even with a propagator. 
I half fill shallow boxes with light soil and 
pack the corms as thickly as possible, and 
fill in the spaces with soil. If any corms 
grow faster than others they are carefully 
taken out, and placed in other boxes, giving 
them more room. 
Aquilegias. 
In perusing the magnificent list published 
by Baker’s, of Wolverhampton, I observe 
that they make a speciality of Aquilegias, 
which reminds me that it is better to sow 
this seed early under cover. These plants 
are extremely slow the first season, but by 
starting them early they make fine- plants 
for the next year. Do not be led away to 
sow a poor or even ordinary strain, however, 
or disappointment will follow. The long- 
spurred hybrids that are now offered by re¬ 
putable firms are really glorious. A poor 
strain is not worthy of a thought. 
Montbretias. 
Planting outdoors may now go on merrily. 
Montbretias are certain to do well if planted 
about three or four inches apart. A sunny 
position and rich soil are essential if good 
specimens are desired. 
Carnations. 
Get Carnations into their flowering quar¬ 
ters as soon as possible, and make a point 
of adding a few newer sorts to the collec¬ 
tion. 
Ivy on Walls. 
Ivy on walls should now receive attention 
in the way of clipping. Some never think 
of shearing Ivy, unless it gets in the way, 
but if clipped close to the wall, new growth 
quickly follows, and the result is clean, 
healthy foliage all through the season. Ivy 
may be planted too, in fact, if turned out 
of pots, there is hardly any period when it 
may not be planted. Never choose a hot 
position for Ivy, or it will become infested 
with red spider or other pests, and also have 
a poor, starved appearance. 
Roses. 
Tackle climbing Roses without further de¬ 
lay. All ramblers should be relieved of 
wood that has flowered, if any remains 
after the autumn pruning. Flowers are 
borne Qn the young wood, and if well 
treated, ramblers never fail to send up giant 
canes annually. 
The Fruit Garden. 
Work here is practically at a standstill. 
In some places, however, things may be a 
bit behind, and no time should be lost in 
squaring up. 
Bush Fruits. 
Mulching with manure is an important 
item where bush fruits are grown. The soil 
should be pricked up, not dug, before applv- 
March 2, 1907. 
ing the manure. Never stir deeply amo 
Raspberries, as the roots are near the s'. 
face. 
Pears. 
Pears are ready for grafting before App:, 
and the work may be undertaken at a- 
time. 
Apricots. 
It should be remembered that Apric-; 
come into flower early, and protection in t 
shape of double netting is almost essenti 
Continue to remove all mite-infested bu. 
showing on Black Currants. 
The Kitchen Garden, 
Onions. 
Those who intend to grow big Onic 
should have their plot in thorough ore 
by this time. Big Onions can only 
obtained by trenching deeply, and good fee 
ing. The surface should have a good dre 
ing of lime and wood ashes, followed la 
on by a fair sprinkling of soot. The plai 
should now be of fair size if they are bei 
grown at home. Do not coddle in a 
way, but shelter from cold winds. 
Outdoor sown Onions appreciate go 
treatment too. Use soot and wood ashes 
plenty, and a little bone flour and sulph, 
of potash will help things later on. 
should be applied before sowing, and stirr 
in. 
Leeks. 
Leeks may be sown now, but these a 
given a little patch in the seed bed 1 , as th 
can be planted out later on. 
Various. 
Brussels Sprouts, Summer Cabbage, a: 
Parsnips should be got in soon. The h 
former need a sheltered seed bed. T 
latter must be given a place where th 
will not come in the way of other thin 
at the latter end of the season. 
Lettuce and Radish may be safely sot 
now. 
Potatos. 
Early Potatos may go in where the si 
is fairly light. Plant very shallow and pi 
tect the shoots as they appear. Look ov 
main crop sets and rub out superfluo 
sprouts. Horti. 
The Amateur’s Greenhouse 
Roses. 
The latest batch of Roses may now 
pruned and started; these, will give use: 
flowers some time in advance, of outdo 
plants. A few of the Hybrid Perpetui 
may be cut hard back, say, to 2 or 3 bu 
per shoot, if really fine flowers are wank 
The Teas and H. Teas should have at le. 
twice the number of buds or ej r es left, a 
even then will give nice blooms. A nij 
temperature of 50 degrees will be ample 
starting these newcomers. If much belc 
that figure, use the syringe, but sparing, 
and be very careful not to allow co 
draughts to reach the foliage. If r 
already done, the surface soil should 
removed and replaced by fresh, rich co- 
post. 
Peaches. 
Even in cool houses the Peach trees i\ 
soon be opening their buds, therefore it 
imperative that all cleaning and tyi 
should be at once finished. The bore' 
must be well watered if at all dry, but di 
ing the time that the flowers are open 
endeavour should be made to use as lit- 
moisture as possible in the house. I 
plants should be watered early, and t 
ventilators opened as wide as is consists 
with safety, in order to allow superfluo- 
moisture to escape. In this way the op 
flowers should be sufficiently dry to alk 
of the free dispersal of the yellow, powd- 
like pollen from the anthers. A rabbi 
tail, tied to a light cane, gently passed ov 
