March 2, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
J 57 
1574. Rose Bushes Growing. 
Several of my Rose bushes are throwing 
out buds % in. long and seem in danger of 
getting cut with frost. Shoulcf they be 
pruned at once to prevent this? They were 
planted two years ago and flowered well 
last year. They are Hybrid Perpetuals. 
(T. H. Westman, Glamorgan). 
By ' pruning away those portions of the 
shoots which have commenced to grow you 
would only induce the lower buds to start 
into growth, and that is really undesirable. 
Only the upper shoots will push at present, 
but as they will all be removed at pruning 
time it is immaterial whether they get in¬ 
jured by frost or not. Prune them during 
the second half of March. 
1575. How to Prune China Roses. 
I should be much obliged if you would 
let me know how to prune some Rcses planted 
last autumn. They are Annie Marie de 
Montravel, White Pet, Laurette Messimy 
and Mme. Eugene Resal. (A. Henderson, 
Herts.) 
The first-named is a dwarf Polyantha 
Rose and merely requires to be pruned back 
to a good bud on the flower stem of last 
year. It does not grow high as a rule and 
the greater portion of the stem consists, of 
a panicle of flowers. Note where a good 
bud occurs on this stem and prune back to 
that. White Pet is even a dwarfer grower 
and may be cut to a few eyes from the 
ground. Always cut to an eye or bud point¬ 
ing away from, the centre of the bush. 
Both this and the other two are China Roses 
which may be treated much alike. The 
pruning may be done during the second 
half of March. All dead and weak shoots 
can, of course, be removed as useless. 
1576. Old Plant of Reve d’Or. 
On the porch of our house is a large 
plant of the Reve d’Or Rose, but it has 
overgrown the place and is a mass of shoots. 
What could I do to keep it in bounds ? 
(E. V. H., Somerset). 
An overgrown Rose of this character is 
a difficult subject to tackle or rather tedious 
owing to its having been neglected until it 
forms a confused mass of stems and branches. 
You will have to reduce the number of stems 
by first removing those which are two, three 
or more years old in preference to those 
that are onl3' one or two years old. Just 
retain a sufficient number of the youngest 
stems to cover the space. Some of the side 
branches can, of course, be retained, pro¬ 
vided there is space to nail them in or tie 
them without crowding. The stems and 
side shoots retained may be left at full length 
or only thin and badly-ripened tips re¬ 
moved. If this operation is attended to at 
least once a year it becomes simple enough 
and consists chiefly in thinning. It can be 
better done in July than at any other time 
1 provided the stems had been merely tied to 
stakes or growing as a bush in the open. 
There should be no difficulty, however, in 
giving the requisite amount of thinning 
during winter. Never retain old stems if 
there are sufficient younger ones to take 
their place. 
1577. Difference Between H. P. and H. T. 
Roses. 
I should feel obliged if you would tell 
me the difference between Hybrid Perpetual 
and Hybrid Tea Roses. (Novice, Sussex). 
The Hybrid Perpetual Roses have been 
raised in gardens by crossing Rosa gallica 
and damascena. We do not mean to imply 
that they have all been derived from the 
wild types, but are from improved garden 
varieties, and the work has extended over 
many years. The Hybrid Tea Roses have 
been derived by crossing the Hybrid Per¬ 
petuals with some of the Tea 'Roses de¬ 
rived originally from R. indica fragrans. 
The original R. indica was, of course, the 
Monthly Rose, and the Teas were derived 
from its variety just named. There is thus 
a difference of origin, and the Hybrid Teas 
are slightly less hardy than the Hybrid 
Perpetuals. 
VEGETABLES. 
1578. Beet and Cucumbers. 
I shall be obliged if you will tell me 
whether in your articles on “ Vegetables All 
the Year Round ” you have treated Beet and 
Cucumbers. I have been a reader of The 
Gardening World for just twelve months 
now and have not seen them during that 
time, though I found valuable assistance in 
the articles on Tomatos and Vegetable Mar¬ 
rows. I propose trying Cucumbers in a 
frame this year, also Beet in the open, of 
course, and shall be glad to read the ar¬ 
ticles if written and now obtainable. 
(A. S. L., Norfolk). 
The articles on Beet and Cucumbers ap¬ 
peared in 1905. We have, therefore, posted 
the two numbers in which those articles 
occur. Beet appeared on September 23rd, 
1905, and Cucumbers in December 9th of 
the same year. 
1579. Carrots for Exhibition. 
Will you please tell me the best way to 
grow Carrots for exhibition ? If 1 make 
holes, shall I have to ram the soil that I 
fill up with? (Novice, Sussex). 
It is certainly advantageous and necessary 
to good results to have the soil that you use 
for filling the holes made quite firm. We 
do not know what you consider as a proper 
degree of ramming, but we should describe 
it as makingthe soil about the same firmness 
as the other soil of the bed. Of course, the 
ground should have been trenched' in the au¬ 
tumn, and since then it will have settled 
down to a fair degree of firmness owing to 
the time that has elapsed and the rain that 
has fallen. You should use a compost of 
sifted loam, sand, leaf mould and wood 
ashes with which to fill the holes. If you 
intend to grow Intermediate Carrots or Long 
Red Surrey the holes ought to be 3 ft. deep. 
If the varieties to be grown are Short-Horn 
Carrots, then 12 in. to 18 in. would be 
ample. Several seeds should be sown on the 
top of each of these holes and the seedlings 
allowed to grow till it is seen which one 
is to be the strongest, when all the rest can 
be removed. 
1580. Broad Beans for Exhibition. 
When would you advise sowing Broad 
Beans to have them in perfection the first 
week of August? (Novice, Sussex). 
You may calculate upon the Beans re¬ 
quiring sixteen weeks to be fit for exhibition 
from the time of sowing, that being so you 
would have to sow during the first week of 
April. As you will be largely dependent 
upon the nature of the weather it is often 
advantageous to make two sowings instead 
of one,, and if you resolve upon that the 
first might be made during the third or 
fourth week of March and the other as 
stated. 
FRUIT. 
1581. Fruit Growing. 
Being a novice I shall be glad if you will 
advise me on fruit growing. I want bushes 
to fruit this summer. (1) Can I buy bushes 
to fruit this summer, and what age should 
they be? (2) Will they fruit if planted in 
pots 18 in. deep? (3) I have space for six 
bushes; would you advise buying six Ap¬ 
ples, or, say, two Apples, two Pears, one 
Cherry and one Plum? I have seen six 
bushes advertised for 5s. or 6s. Are these 
reliable, or shall I have to pay a better 
price? I am going in for fruit growing as 
a hobby, but should like them to be profit¬ 
able. I am a new reader and am interested 
in The Gardening World, but am worried 
about different terms used, such as Paradise 
stock. I do not understand this term. 
(Tufnell, Middlesex). 
(1) You can buy bushes furnished with 
flower buds intended for fruiting this coming 
season, but we cannot guarantee that they 
would fruit. It all depends upon manage¬ 
ment, and until you get experience you 
should not attempt too m”ch for the first 
season. Small trees to fruit should be two 
or three years old. They should also be 
already established in pots. (2) It is 'not a 
question of planting them into big pots, as 
it all depends upon the size of the trees 
and the condition of the roots. To fruit 
properly in pots they should have been 
grown in pots for some time and treated 
with that object in view. Trees that will 
fruit should already be in pots when you 
get them. (3) All of the fruit trees you 
name are easy to manage with a little ex¬ 
perience, and the one would probably be as 
difficult to manage as the other, but if we 
were to make any exception we should say 
that the Apples and Pears would be the 
easiest to manage. It is, therefore, quite a 
matter for your own judgment as to how 
} 7 ou should dispose the varieties. (4) The 
bushes advertised at 5s. or 6s. could scarcely 
have been trees intended to fruit in pots this 
year, and possibly they were only maidens 
grafted last year perhaps. That money 
would not pay for the pots, leaving fruiting 
trees out of consideration. Any or all of 
these trees can only be made profitable by 
successful cultivation by getting the fruit 
ready in advance of others so that they can 
be placed on the market in first-class con¬ 
dition and before other fruits can compete 
with them. Growing fruits in pots is an 
expensive operation if } r ou take into consider¬ 
ation the labour that will be incurred ; then, 
unless you can produce sqmething superior 
and at a time when few others can, it would 
not pay you. There is no reason, however, 
why you should not make a commencement 
at getting experience in this class of work.. 
We presume you intend fruiting them under 
glass, otherwise we scarcely see what ad¬ 
vantage you would have in growing them 
out of doors. The stock on which trees are 
grafted or budded is one that chiefly con¬ 
cerns the nurseryman who makes use of 
such stocks. The Apples that you intend 
growing in pots should, of course, be grafted 
on the Paradise stock. You will find an 
explanation of this in questions 1403 and 
I 45 * I - 
SOILS AND MANURES. 
1582. Fowl Manure. 
I should be greatly obliged if you would 
answer the following questions : How I can 
utilise fowl manure? Can I manure Rose 
trees and fruit trees with it? Of course, 
it is mixed with a certain amount of ashes 
from the run ; also the sod of my garden is 
of a heavy, clayey kind. (Geo. H. Kern, 
Essex) 
Fowl manure is most valuable when 
gathered weekly from the fowl house and 
laid in some shed where H will get quite 
dry and keep in that fashion until used. 
Then all you have to do is to break it up 
finely with the spade so that you can dis¬ 
tribute it over the ground for the crops in¬ 
tended. Rose trees and fruit trees can be 
manured by using a dressing, but in gardens 
there are usually crops of value from which 
a better or more certain or a quicker return 
can be had. If dry, it is chiefly a nitro¬ 
genous manure. If allowed to get wet it 
would lose some of its nitrogen and the 
remaining manurial value would largely 
depend upon the phosphates it contained. 
In preparing ground for Onions, Carrots. 
