March 9, i 9 °7 THE GARDENING WORLD. 
173 
ngly in the same sized pots, and once 
ore plunge the latter in a bottom heat, 
it allow plenty of air to reach the grow- 
j, r shoots. When the roots have taken 
hssession of the new soil, remove the pots 
a cool frame for a few weeks. 1 his 
ill happen about the month of April. 
In due course you may repot the plants 
it is intended to grow them always in 
>ts or tubs, or plant them in prepared 
orders where you wish the trees to re¬ 
am permanently. 
The soil used should be fibrous and 
indy, or of a light nature and made quite 
rm around the roots. Some old lime 
lbbish, from which all bits of lath, or 
her wood has been removed, is splendid 
Laterial for mixing with the soil at the 
ite of one peck to five bushels of com- 
jst. 
Layering. — Any of the lower branches 
ill do for layering if they are ripe and 
rnrt-jointed. Gently, but firmly, bend 
awn the branches so as to ascertain the 
oint at which they will come into contact 
ith the soil, then cut off a small slice 
f wood and bark from the under side of 
le bent stem, and firmly peg the latter in 
prepared compost, burying it three 
iches below the surface. Keep the soil 
1 a moist condition, and sever the layered 
:em from the parent tree when it is well 
aoted. The layering may be done any 
me between the months of October and 
L pril, but the autumn is the best time. 
Ten in summer layers may be rooted. 
Suckers are sometimes employed (see 
igs. 2 and 3). 
(To be continued.) 
-- 
Horticultural Societies’ 
Diary 
of Forthcoming Meetings. 
Abbreviations used. 
..—Association 
.m.—Amateurs 
by.—Chrysanthemum 
,m.—Committee meeting 
ott—Cottage or Cottagers 
'.—District 
H.—Horticultural 
M.I.—Mutual Improve¬ 
ment 
m.m.—Monthly meeting 
S.—Society 
w.m.—Weekly meeting 
r.—Gardening or gardener 
Thus :—The Templeton G. Am. and Cott. M.I.H.S, 
rardeners, Amateurs’ and Cottagers’ Mutual Improve- 
lent Horticultural Society. 
NOTICE TO SECRETARIES. 
Will secretaries of horticultural societies 
kindly send us at their earliest convenience 
dates of shows and meetings to be held 
luring 1907? 
March. 
1 ith.— Horsforth G. M. I. S. (w.m.); Sut- 
ton-in-Ashfield H. S. (m.m.); Has¬ 
tings, St. Leonard’s and D. H. M. 
I. S. (m.m.). 
12th.—Milton and Sittingbourne H. S. 
(m.m.); Society of Jersey Gar¬ 
deners (m.m.); Biddenden Cott. 
G. M. I. S. (m.m.). 
13th.—East Anglian H. Club (m.m.); 
Nottingham and Notts Chy. S. 
(m.m.); Sheffield Chy. S. (m.m.). 
14th.—West Hartlepool and D. G. M. I. 
S. (bi-m.m.); Woking H. A. 
(m.m.); Studley H. S. (m.m.). 
16th.—Leeds Paxton S. (w.m.). 
-- 
Fruit at the Roots.— A Cocoanut 
tree, in a house at Bassein, Burma, wfiich 
's about ten feet in height, is bearing 
fruit at the roots. 
Address: The Editor, The Gardening 
World, 37 and 38, Shoe Lane, London, E.C. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may 
cover any branch of gardening. Questions 
should be as brief as -possible and written on 
one side of the paper only; a separate sheet 
of paper should be used for each question. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans. —Gardeners who would make 
the best use of this column are invited to 
prepare and forward to us a rough outline 
drawing or plan of their gardens , indicating 
the position of beds and lawns, the charac¬ 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden , orchard, etc. The 
north siae of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
flat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be maiked. Particulars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
received they will be carefully filed, with the 
name and address of the sender, and will be 
consulted by the Editor whenever an enquiry 
is sent. 
mrrnmmm 
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. 
1589. Nerine Bulbs. 
Concerning Nerine bulbs mentioned in 
y-our article on p. 117 of February 16th, 
please ask your contributor to inform me 
where these bulbs are to be purchased and 
at what priae. (John Attwood Reeve, 
Bucks.). 
See question No. 1564 for some informa¬ 
tion concerning Nerines. Our correspon¬ 
dent who wrote the article is a gardener 
in a private establishment where a number 
of these Nerines were raised from seed, 
and we fear they would not be procurable 
as they are private property and not for 
sale as far as we know. Some of them have 
possibly got into commerce and would fetch 
rather high prices. Plenty of older species 
and varieties are obtainable from the bulb 
merchants at prices ranging from iod., 
is: 6d., and 2s. up to 30s. per bulb. This 
latter price merely indicates that the variety 
is new and expensive because they increase 
very slowly. We named, some very good 
ones in the question on p. 155. 
1590. Hoya carnosa. 
I have recently had given me a very small 
plant of Hoya. How shall I proceed; is 
it hardy and will you please give me a 
description of it? (A. J. W., Kent). 
There are many- species of Hoya, but in 
all probability yours is H. carnosa, which 
requires greenhouse treatment. It is a 
climber and requires a stake, pillar or wires 
to which it can be tied. The flowers are 
produced in flat clusters or trusses, are pale 
flesh colour and have a waxy, shiny ap¬ 
pearance. Unless you have a greenhouse, 
therefore, it would be useless to attempt its 
cultivation. During summer it would enjoy 
a fair amount of water, but in winter it is 
better to be kept on the dry side. 
1591. Ringing Araucaria excelsa. 
Seeing the article in last week’s issue re 
the ringing and tongueing of Crotons, 
Dracaenas and India-rubber Plants, would 
you please tell me if the same treatment 
would answer with Araucaria excelsa, .as I 
am anxious to try and strike some? If this 
cannot be done, would you give me a way 
to strike the same? (E. T. Ellis, Kent). 
We have never heard of or seen Arau¬ 
caria excelsa being ringed for the purpose 
of rooting it, but we do not see why it 
should not be done. On a large scale it 
would not be worth the trouble as the nur¬ 
serymen strike them from cuttings by the 
thousand; indeed, this is the best way to 
get compact young plants. You could only 
take the top of your plant to insert as a 
cutting. This should be done by cutting it 
below a joint, cutting clean away the set 
of branches at the joint and inserting it. 
firmly in very sandy soil or in sand en¬ 
tirely. Water it immediately with a rosed 
watering pot and stand the pot containing 
it on a hotbed of a mild degree, say about 
60 degs. It will take some time to root. 
The old plant is not thrown away by nur¬ 
serymen, but encouraged to grow again, 
and, as a rule, it makes several leaders, 
which are again used for cuttings when 
they have reached a certain degree of ma- 
turityi Horizontal or side branches never 
make trees of good shape, so that you must 
always fall back upon the leaders produced 
after the removal of the first one. If you 
have only one plant, tongueing would be, 
perhaps, a safer plan in your case. 
COLD FRAMES. 
1592. Geraniums in a Cold Frame. 
When will it be safe to put Geraniums in 
a cold frame outside? (Sussex). 
In your'district this may be done at any 
time now provided the plants" have pre¬ 
viously been well hardened off by having 
plenty of ventilation. If they have not 
been well aired for a week in this way you 
should proceed to do it. If you still get 
a frosty night occasionally you should be 
prepared to cover the frames with mats as 
the glass and other coverings will now 
keep out all the frost you are likely to get. 
1593. Frames and Marrow Bed. 
Are the positions as shown on the accom¬ 
panying plan right for the cold frames and 
Vegetable Marrow bed ? Is there danger 
of getting too much sun on them later on? 
At present I give plenty of air in the day¬ 
time and cover up with canvas at night. So 
far the few seedlings I have placed in 
frames are doing very well, although they 
move very slowly. I shall have some more 
seedlings to. put into them in a few days. If 
the positions are not correct will you kindly 
indicate better ones? (A. J. W,, Kent). 
We are uncertain as to the real position 
of your garden, because your cardinal 
points are wrongly marked. If the line in¬ 
dicating east and w,est is properly marked 
then than indicating north and south is 
incorrect. According to the plan the Vege¬ 
table Marrow bed is in a corner facing 
north-west, and is therefore one of the 
coldest places you could have selected for 
