March 9, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. J 75 
should have been trenched and manured 
some months ago. If year intend sowing 
in the open, that should now be done with¬ 
out further delay. The distance from seed 
to seed may vary from 3 in. or 4 in. to 
18 in. apart in the line. Very few give the 
latter distance, but plants which have so 
much room as that branch freely and grow 
late through the season. About 6 in. to 
p in. from Pea to Pea in the line would be 
a good average distance. The distance from 
line to line would depend upon the height 
to which you can grow them in your soil. 
If the Peas only grow 3 ft. high, that would 
be fairly sufficient from line to line, but 
if they grow 5 ft. or 6 ft. high ey should 
have about a s'milar distance from line to 
line. A good average, however, would be 
31 ft. to 4 ft. It depends largely upon the 
space you can spare. A good plan is to 
make hedges of them, so that light and air 
will play freely 1 upon all sides of the 
plants. If you are only commencing the 
cultivation of Sweet Peas, it is not neces¬ 
sary to begin with the newest and most 
expensive varieties, neither do you mention 
what number of varieties you intend to grow. 
Vou should certainly grow Dorothy Eck- 
ford, Gladys Unwin, Miss Willmott, King 
Edward VII., Prince of Wales, Navy Blue, 
Black Knight, Lady Grizel Hamilton, Hon. 
Mrs. E. Kenyon, Jeannie Gordon, America 
and Coccinea. That is a dozen, but to com¬ 
plete the number of colours in the Sweet 
Pea, you should also grow Duchess of Suther¬ 
land, Mrs. Walter Wright, George Gordon,' 
Duke of Westminster, Princess of Wales, 
Grade Greenwood, and Dainty. Vou will 
find a lengthy account of the best new 
varieties for this year in our issue for Feb¬ 
ruary 2nd. Some of them will now excel 
the list we have given in the matter of 
size, so you can decide whether you want 
any of them or not. The address you want 
is, Mr. Harry Boshier, 62, High Street, 
Croydon. 
1601. Hardy Perennials from Seed. 
As soon as the hardy and half-hardy 
annuals are out, say, about the middle of 
April, I shall have some spare pans and 
boxes. I should like to try my luck at 
raising some hardy perennials from seed 
to plant out into their winter quarters some 
time towards the end of September. I have 
i no greenhouse, but, if necessary, could 
make another hotbed. I want those that are 
really hardy and likely to stand our ordi¬ 
nary London winter, and would make a 
fairly early display next year. Those I 
fancy are : (1) Delphinium, single and 
double; (2) Eremurus ; (3) Geum coccineum, 
■ or rivale Leonardii; (4) Galega officinalis; 
(5) Heuchera sanguinea; (6) Helianthemum, 
cr Rock Roses; (7) Lupinus arboreus, or 
tree Lupin; (8) l’entstemon; (9) Platycodon 
grandiflorum; (10) Rudbeckia fulgida. 
I These are all called H.P. in seedsmen’s 
catalogues. Your advice ms to the best 
varieties of these you think I am most likely 
to succeed with, compost for seed pans or 
boxes, whether heat is required to raise 
them, and which of them (if any) will do 
well in a north border which only gets sun 
up to about 10 a.m., will be greatly appre- 
! ciated. Also, you might mention any other 
hardy perennials that might- be grown under 
the same conditions. (A. J. W., Kent.) 
Vou can make up another hotbed for the 
seeds if you feel so inclined, but a good 
many of them would grow if sown in seed 
pans or boxes and placed in a cold frame 
about the beginning of April. Not all of 
those you have mentioned will make an 
early display, but there may .be some diffi¬ 
culty in getting seeds of some of the early 
plants. You can use a compost precisely 
similar to that employed for annuals in 
boxes. (1) In the case of Delphiniums, we 
cannot name any particular variety, as they 
are garden flowers, and you may get any¬ 
thing except the original from seeds. Simply 
get a packet of seeds from a good seedsman 
and select those you like best when they 
come into bloom. (2) Eremurus robustus, 
E.r. Elwesii and E. himalaicus are the best 
early flowering forms. (3) Besides the one 
you mention, you may also get Geum Hei- 
dreichi, G.H. superbum, G.H. splendens, 
and G. montanum. (4) Vou should also 
get Galega officinalis alba, and G. 
orientalis. (5) Besides the one you 
name you may get Heuchera sanguinea 
splendens, H. erutbescens, and H. brizoides. 
(6) Most of the Rock Roses that would be 
considered herbaceous would belong to Heli¬ 
anthemum vulgare, of which there are a 
large number of garden varieties, but we 
doubt if they would come true from seed. 
Probably a number of the seedlings would 
be quite well worth growing, although not 
exactly true to the parent in colour. To 
get these things true it is necessary to get 
young plants raised from cuttings. (7) Vou 
may get a variety of colours from Lupinus 
arboreus, but you should endeavour to get 
Snow Queen, which has white flowers. Both 
of these are shrubby. The best herbaceous 
one is L. polyphyllus. There are several 
varieties of this, but we doubt if they would 
come true from seed. (8) If you refer to 
the fine garden strains of Pentstemon, then 
you should get a packet of seed from a good 
nurseryman and select the best varieties 
after they have bloomed. It is necessary 
to take cuttings, insert them in boxes during 
September, and keep them in cold frames 
during winter. Two very pretty hardy 
species are P. barbatus and P. hetero- 
phyllus. (9) Besides the plant you name, 
you might also get Platycodon grandiflorum 
Mariesii, as it is dwarfer and P.g. macran- 
thum, which has larger flowers. (10) Besides 
the plant you name, you should get Rud¬ 
beckia speciosa, which has even finer 
flowers, but neither of them are early 
flowering. Other fine things of which seeds 
may be obtained are Inula glandulosa, Trol- 
lius eurepaeus, Pyrethtum roseum (single and 
double), Campanula persicifolia, C.p. gran- 
diflora, C.p. alba, Centaurea montana, 
Chei-ranthus alpinus, Corydalis lutea, Gyp- 
sophila paniculata, Iris sibirica, Papaver 
orientale, P.o. bracteatum, and Saxifraga 
Wallacei. For the north border that only 
gets sun in the morning you might get 
Oenothera fruticosa, Geum rivale, and its 
varieties, Corydalis lutea, Aquilegia vul¬ 
garis, Primroses, Polyanthuses, Thalic- 
trum aquilegifolium, and, if possible, Saxi¬ 
fraga Geum, S. umbrosa, and S. rotundi- 
folia. Seeds of the latter are not always 
obtainable, seeing that the plants multiply so 
freely iby offsets. The above, or even half 
of them, will give you some work to attend 
to during the coming season. The Pansies 
mentioned in the plan should be on the 
north border. The Carnations and Canter¬ 
bury Bells on a more sunny border. 
ROSES. 
1602. Outgrowth on Roses. 
Please will you let me know what is the 
cause of that which I have enclosed grow¬ 
ing on a Prince C. de Rohan and also on 
Helen Keller Rose trees. They are both 
young trees planted last spring, but since 
then I have found out I planted them about 
3 in. too deep, and have been planting them 
right again. The specimen sent was what 
I found growing on the stock opposite to 
where it was budded. Is it injurious to 
the plants, and what can I do to prevent 
it? They do not throw up any young shoots 
from the base, and were -jruned down within 
9 in. of the ground. The soil is rather 
light. (J. Bull, Staffordshire.) 
The specimen you sent was an outgrowth 
which has evidently been encouraged by too 
deep planting. Such growths, however, 
should be avoided if possible, as they en¬ 
courage attacks of fungus, bringing about 
the ailment known as canker. The out¬ 
growths you should cut clean away with 
your knife and burn them. Since you have 
rectified the depth of planting, the plants 
should throw up young shoots from the 
base, but you should also remember that 
you have thrown them back by the opera¬ 
tion of lifting. Provided the plants re¬ 
main healthy, they should recover them¬ 
selves during the season. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
1603. Plants for Wall of Verandah. 
The front of my house has a verandah, 
the position of which will be seen from the 
accompanying small sketch. As the front 
door is under the verandah, it is important 
that the latter should look as pretty as pos¬ 
sible. At present it is spoiled by the bare 
wall marked A, which forms one end of it. 
Can you suggest to me how to treat this 
wall? One or two tubs might look well, 
and in that case what should you suggest 
growing in them? I should prefer some¬ 
thing which will grow as flat as possible to 
the wall. (W. H. Griffith, Warwickshire.) 
It depends upon how much light the wall 
gets as to what will grow in that position. 
Plants do not as a rule thrive well under 
a verandah of such a width, although in 
the good aspect which you have some things 
might be made to look well. In the absence 
of rain, it is necessary to syringe the plants 
frequently to keep them clean in the matter 
of dust, green fly, and red spider. Vou 
should get tubs that are not much wider 
than the pillar, so that they would stand 
close up against the wall, and take up little 
space. Indeed, you could have them made 
on purpose, rather deep but narrow. Ampe- 
lopsis Veitchi would cling to the wall, and 
we think would look as neat as anything for 
a foliage plant. If the light is fairly good, 
you could probably succeed with Cotoneaster 
microphylla, which would require very little 
training to make it lie close to the wall. 
Being evergreen, we think it would be less 
happy than the Ampelopsis. A variegated 
Ivy would also look neat, and a very neat 
one would be Hedera Helix marginata 
major. 
1604. Climbers for Pillars. 
What creepers would you suggest growing 
up verandah pillars (see sketch) ? The 
pillars are wooden and aibout 8 in. square. 
The roof of the verandah is tiled. (W. H. 
Griffith, Warwickshire.) 
If the ground under the verandah is tiled 
or paved, it would be necessary to grow the 
climbers in tubs, which could be stood in¬ 
side the pillars so that the plants in them 
could be trained up. The plants would be 
inclined to be drawn to the outside on ac¬ 
count of the light. More shapely plants 
could be obtained by having the tubs on 
the outside of the pillars, if that is con¬ 
venient, but they would not hide the inside 
of the pillars 90 well without training, nor 
flower so well on that side. We would 
suggest either four Fuchsias or a variety 
of plants such as Fuchsia Mrs. Marshall, 
F. Riccartoni, Rose Dorothy Perkins (pink), 
and Rose Reve d’Or fellow). As the first- 
named Fuchsia is not hardy, it would have 
to be wintered in a greenhouse. Indeed, in 
your district, we doubt if F. Riccartoni 
would be entirely hardy. If j'ou cannot 
give them greenhouse treatment in winter, 
a better plan would be to get Jasminum nudi- 
florum and the late Dutch Honeysuckle as a 
substitute for the Fuchsias. 
1605. Climber to Cover Wall. 
On the left-hand side of the enclosed 
sketch there is a corner marked B, formed 
