March 16, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
183 
<1 
Chrysanthemums 
. . Work for March. 
Roses. 
The care of young plants in frames has 
been somewhat tedious business of late. 
The severe weather having imposed close 
renditions for days and nights together 
las naturally had the effect of making the 
>Iants more tender and less able to bear 
he sun, but with a very slight shading 
'or a day or two, and the gradual admis- 
-ion of air on all favourable occasions, 
they will soon gain strength, and, as 
letter conditions prevail, they wiil be all 
:he better for an abundance of light and 
air. 
As soon as the roots have worked 
through the ball of soil in the small pots 
the plants must be re-potted into' those 
5G or 6 inches in diameter, according to 
the habit of the variety, some requiring 
larger pots than others. The same mix¬ 
ture of soil should be used for this potting 
as for the previous one, only that the turf- . 
soil should be used in rather larger lumps, 
and the potting must be done firmer—if 
anything—than before, a small hand- 
rammer being used. Each plant must 
now have a small stick put to it before 
being replaced in the frame. Where 
pinching is done to cause the plants to 
break afresh, it should not be done imme¬ 
diately before or after potting, but when 
the plants are in full growth, and as the 
new shoots appear, two or more may be 
retained, and the others removed. 
Hints as to the time to stop new varieties 
are usually given in the grower's cata¬ 
logue. but of late years -popular kinds 
have been more prone to err on the side 
i of early bud production. 
Where specimen blooms are required on 
single-stem plants in 6 or 7 inch pots the 
present is a good time for inserting the 
cuttings. These will require a consider¬ 
able amount of attention if best results 
are to be obtained, the grower having 
now to cope with the increasing power of 
the sun, often combined noth cutting 
winds. 
Among varieties suitable for this small- 
pot culture may be mentioned Mrs. Knox 
and Soleil dOctobre, yellow; Mrs. A. T. 
Miller and Mrs. J. Dunn, white ; W. R. 
Church, crimson; Mrs. Mileham and 
Pres. Viger, rose pink shades. 
Varieties intended for decorative pur¬ 
poses will require the points of the shoots 
pinched out at every 6 or 8 inches of 
growth from now until the middle of 
June, unless rather large flowers are re¬ 
quired, in which case one pinching, at 
the present time, will suffice. 
Cuttings of such compact growing sorts 
a^Pluied'Or and Etoile Blanc if put in at 
the present time, will make excellent 
plants in 5 or 6 inch pots for indoor 
decoration in October and November. 
Many of the early-flowering kinds are 
also suitable for this purpose, if struck 
this month or next, notably Boule de 
Xeige. Blush Beauty, Le Pactole, Rosie, 
Miss B. Miller, Champ d'Or and Louis 
Lemaire. 
For a display in the open border in 
September, the following varieties will be 
found first-rateCarrie, Pollie, and 
Horace Martin, yellow; Holmes’ White, 
Roi des Blancs, and White Masse, white; 
Goacher’s Crimson and Harvest Home, 
dark red; Goacher’s Pink, Improved 
Masse, pink; while Tuxwood ’.Bronze, 
Orange, Mrs. A. Willis, and Frankie give 
different shades of bronze. Jimmie, too, 
is not to be despised where rose-purple 
shades are not objected to. 
Chrysanthemum growers who have not 
already got in a supply of turf-soil for 
final potting, should lose no time in doing 
so. The top two or three inches of a 
Striking 
Buds. . . 
Of the many methods of propagating 
the Rose, not the least interesting is by 
means of buds prepared and rooted in a 
similar manner to Vine eyes. Spring is 
the best time to perform this operation 
and granted that an even and regular 
temperature of about 60 degrees is ob¬ 
tainable, but little difficulty will be experi¬ 
enced in getting the buds to strike. Se¬ 
lect firm, good-sized buds, and cut each 
with a small piece of wood attached above 
and below as shown in Fig. j of the ac¬ 
companying sketches. One bud may be 
inserted in a thumb put or several round 
the edges of a larger pot as desired, but 
in either case good drainage consisting 
of broken crocks and a layer of moss or 
rough lumpy compost must be provided, 
whilst the soil should be composed of two 
parts good loam, one part leaf soil, and 
one part sand. 
2 . 
Striking Rose buds; 1 , the bud; 2 , the bud 
inserted in a larger -pot containing cocoanut 
good old pasture is, of course, the best if 
it can be obtained, but oftentimes one 
has to be content with the undercut after 
the first two inches have been taken off 
for turfing operations. If this proves de¬ 
ficient in fibre, an increased proportion 
of both coarse sand and mortar rubble 
will have to be used with it, and if of a 
rather sticky quality, wood ashes should 
be used very sparingly, or not at all, 
although this material is valuable in a 
lighter compost. R. Barnes. 
-- 
The Smallest Tree.— The smallest 
natural tree is the Greenland Birch. Al¬ 
though its term of life is from 75 to 130 
years, it seldom reaches more than ten 
inches in height under the most favour¬ 
able circumstances. There are “forests” 
of these trees in Greenland half a cen¬ 
tury old and under five inches in height. 
inserted in light compost: j, cutting pot 
fibre and covered with a square of glass. 
Insert the prepared pieces so that the 
bud is just below the surface of the soil, 
as shown in sketch 2, and plunge the pot 
or pots up to the rims in cocoa fibre re¬ 
fuse in a propagating frame, or if this Is 
unavailable, plunge the pot in a larger 
pot containing cocoa fibre as shown in 
Fig. 3. Place a sheet of glass over tne 
larger pot and stand the whole where the 
required temperature can be maintained. 
The buds must be shaded from the suit 
unii ! thev are rooted, and it is important 
ihai. the soil should be kept :n an cvenlv 
n-oist, but not wet, condition. The gia c • 
should be removed every day and wipcc; 
dry, and in a short time roots will be 
emitted, and when this occurs and the 
buds commence to grow, the rooted cut¬ 
tings should be potted off singly in small 
pots. 
Ortus. 
