March 16, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
i8 5 
A 
8. Shows how harmful severe winter -pruning is; 
A, A, gross young shoots which grow afterwards. 
put on and some litter to protect the roots 
from severe frosts. 
Fig Trees on Pillars. —Some trees 
may be grown on pillars in the open gar¬ 
den just the same as you would grow 
Roses; and also on pergolas and arches. 
Forcing Figs. —There are two ways in 
which these trees may be forced. One by 
planting them in borders, and another by 
growing them in very large pots or tubs 
(see Fig. 9). The latter method is the 
best. When planted in borders under 
glass the growth is apt to become too gross 
and so not properly mature. F urther- 
more, the trees take up a deal of space 
throughout the year. But when grown 
in pots or tubs the roots are more under 
control and the trees need only occupy the 
house during a few months of the year. If 
you raise your own trees for forcing from 
cuttings, or layers, you must duly repot the 
young plants, train and pinch the shoots 
until you have a nice bushy specimen with 
plenty of roots in a large pot. If you buy 
the trees stipulate that they shall be 
thoroughly established specimens. 
A low house is better than a lofty one 
for the actual forcing to take place in. 
Put the trees in the house towards the end 
of February; subject them to a tempera¬ 
ture of 55 degrees by day, and 50 degrees 
by night, for two weeks. Damp the floor 
of the house, and syringe the branches 
once every day with slightly warmed 
water. 
9 
9- A Fig tree in large pot suitable for 
forcing. ' 
At the end of two weeks increase the 
temperature by 5 degrees, both by day and 
night. The ends of any young shoots not 
previously pinched should now be atten¬ 
ded to. The young embryo fruit will 
then swell more rapidly. In the meantime 
new shoots will grow and these, in turn, 
could be pinched when they are about si!x 
inches long with a view to securing in one 
year a second crop of Figs from the same 
trees. 
Give water freely and also manure water 
when the Figs are swelling and commenc¬ 
ing to ripen. (See Fig. 10). The tem¬ 
perature will be higher, naturally, as the 
sun gams power, so you must not neglect 
the watering of the plants and the damp¬ 
ing down of the house. But while the 
fruit is actually ripening, cease heavy- 
syringing of the foliage, and ventilate 
freely. There must not be any change 
in the treatment as the first crop ripens 
and the second one advances. But after 
the fruits forming the last crop are 
gathered, transfer the trees to a cooler 
structure, and eventually pack them away 
for the winter months. The pots may be 
placed close together with litter packed 
around them near a wall or fence facing 
the south. 
For Exhibition. —A Fig should be 
quite ripe—and this desirable condition 
is ascertained by noting the state of the 
skin, if the latter is cracked and juice 
lodging in the cracks the fruit is ripe—and 
bearing a good bloom. (See Fig. 11.) 
Quality is the essential point in judging a 
Fig, and when the above-named condi¬ 
tions obtain good quality is present. 
Mere size does not count, though it shows 
good culture if quality is combined with 
size. 
INSECT Pests.— Red spider does most 
damage to the tree through eating away 
the tissues of the leaves. Brown scale is 
also a persistent foe. Boil 4 ounces of 
soft soap and 4 ounces of powdered 
sulphur in 1 gallon of rain water for 
twenty minutes. Add half a pint of the 
mixture to 2 quarts of water and syringe 
the foliage. But before any new shoots 
grow, it is a good plan to dress all the 
stems with the mixture, applying the latter 
with a brush. This treatment is mostly 
needed when trees are grown under glass. 
Some Good Varieties. — Brown 
Turkey, Negro Largo, St. John's, Bourja- 
sotte Grise, White Marseilles, and Violette 
Sepor. 
For Pot Culture. —Brown Turkey, 
White Marseilles, and Negro Largo are 
the best. G. 
(To be continued.) 
// 
ti. A‘-nrpe-.Fig'-with--cracks. . in. the skin . 
10 . Young Figs swelling freely on a properly pinched shoot. 
