March 16, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
•95 
a little more of the sand may be used there, 
making sure that all it he leaves of the 
Daisies get dusted. This should be done 
during dry weather in April and later. 
Unless your lawn wants a general manure, 
there 'is little necessity for applying an¬ 
other fertiliser when using the sand, as 
that contains a valuable fertilising element 
and stimulates the grass. If the soil is 
poor it would ibe an advantage to gave a 
dressing of superphosphate of lime, at the 
rate of 25 lbs. to the rod. 
ROSES. 
1627. Pruning Frau Karl Druschki. 
Would you kindly inform me how much 
should I pirune dwarf H.P. Frau Karl 
Druschki, planted last November, consisting 
of one strong shoot 2 ft. 4 in. high as thick 
as a lead pencil, and other trees of the 
same height with two or more shoots not 
quite so thick ? I want, if 'possible, to have 
a fair show of Roses for decorative pur¬ 
poses only. (Beginner, Surrey.) 
The best plan would Ibe to out the longest 
shoot down to 12 in.; that is, leave 12 in. 
of the base of the Shoot. The other ones 
being somewhat weaker might be cut down 
to the same height, or to 9 in. Seeing that 
they were only planted in November, they 
might have been cut down to 8 in. with ad¬ 
vantage to the next set of shoots from 
the base, but if you follow out the above 
instructions you should succeed in getting', 
good growth during the forthcoming sum¬ 
mer. Next year the long .shoots might be 
pruned in the same way, but the side shoots 
may be reduced to 2 in. or 3 in. 
1628. Pruning Roses. 
I have a large collection of H.P. and H.T. 
dwarf Roses about 20 in. to 25 in. high, 
some with single stems, some with several 
stems. I have got confused amongst my 
many counsellors. How would you prune 
them ? I want to get plenty of medium 
sized flowers; also to grow shapely bushes 
about 4 ft. . to 5 ft. h’gh, narrow at the 
base and spreading about 2 ft. across at the 
top. (Baynton-Taylor, Scms.) 
The varieties that you" desire to have 
4 ft. or 5 ft. high should be strong growing 
ones, or those likely to remain healthy for a 
good many years. Only some varieties 
seem suited fox this sort of work, but you 
can aim at it by cutting the stronger stems 
to a height of 12 in. or 18 in. the first year, 
anid in succeeding years shortening the 
branches to 8 in. or 10 in., according to their 
strength. You will in the course of a few 
years by this means build up the plants to 
the desired height. If you wei;e to let the 
stems remain longer the first year we fear 
that many of the bushes would ultimately be 
leggy and hare at the base. We should 
aim art getting a number of shoots from the 
base so as to completely furnish the bush, 
otherwise most of the foliage and all the 
flowers will be on the top of -the- bushes. 
The climbing varieties of H.P. and H.T. 
Roses should be suitable for forming 
bushes of the height you mention, but we 
presume you would 'Stake or support them in 
some way or other. 
1629. Roses pn Own Roofs. 
I have trained an Ulrich Brunner with 
a stem 20 in. high, crowned by a very 
Shapely head, which last year was a mass 
of flowers. I see Kelw.ay’s advise Roses 
on. their own roots. May I ask your 
opinion? (Baynton-Taylor, Soms.) 
Many people propagate Roses so as to 
get them on their own roots, and where 
the soil is of light and friable nature, or 
inclined to be sandy, our experience is that 
1 tuey flower well enough for a number of 
'^f arS a * Possibly in soils of this 
character Roses on their own roots would 
be preferable. On the contrary, in soils 
of a heavy character, inclined to clay, it is 
found to be highly advantageous to have 
Roses budded on Brier stocks, as they are 
hardieir than the Roses themselves, which 
are the descendants of plants fore’gn to this 
country. Beyond this we do not know that 
there is much advantage in either system 
over the other. 
1630. Standard Tea Roses Dying Down. 
I purchased and planted several varieties 
of these about the end of last October, and 
I now find that the shoots are dying down 
considerably, though the base still appears 
green. Would it be advisable to cut away 
the dead parts now, to prevent them going 
further, or wait until the end of the month 
and prune them with the others. I should 
also like to know the cause of them going 
like this, as I planted them as advised by 
The Gardening World last October, and 
they appeared to be 'in good condition. 
(Anxious, 'Middlesex.) 
The reason for your Roses dying back in 
the way you state is that they have been 
injured by 'the severe frost during the early 
part of the year. Tea Roses are not per¬ 
fectly hardy and the further north you go 
they are the more liable to get killed back 
even when well established. Indeed, at 
many places and especially in rather un¬ 
favourable situations aill the pruning they 
require in spring is to qut out all the dead 
wood and leave merely what is still alive. 
We believe some people already know that 
they are in this plight. If the base of 
the shoots is still fresh your Roses will 
commence growling presently. They will 
not start into growth so early as those that 
are established, so that you could prune them 
at the present time or wait until the others 
are being pruned. Perhaps the last plan 
would be the best, as ‘it would then he 
evident ihow much dead wood there was 
to be cut away. The shoots merely appear 
to be dead at the present but for all prac¬ 
tical purposes they were dead weeks ago 
and the lengthening days of March are 
merely now showing where the damage oc¬ 
curred. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
1631. Jasminum revolutum. 
Close against my fence is a .shed in my 
neighbour’s garden. At the foot I wish to 
plant a Jasminum .revolutum and train it 
up the fence and the wall above it. Do you 
think it will succeed there? The position 
is very sunny and the soil gravelly. Kindly 
give cultural treatment and oblige. (W. J. 
Stanton, Essex.) 
You should have no difficulty in growing 
Jasminum revolutum on a fence. Some 
amateurs say It does not succeed as they 
should expect it, but we do not quite see 
why that should be. It is certainly 
not on account of frost, as the plant proves 
quite 'hardy even in the far North when 
planted against a wall. A good com¬ 
mencement is half the battle. A hole should 
be dug out at least 2 ft. deep where you intend 
to grow the Jasminum, and lif the soil is 
bad it should be mixed with a good quan¬ 
tity of other and better material, or else 
enirely replaced by it. If the place holds 
water it would be well to have a drain 
made to take away any superfluous water 
that might lodge there. If the place is not 
particularly inclined to be wet some brick¬ 
bats in the bottom of the hole will be quite 
sufficient. Tread down the fresh soil firmly, 
plant the shrub at a proper depth, then 
make the soil firm over the top. Do not 
nail it up tightly .for some weeks, until the 
soil has settled, as the Jasminum might sink 
a little. The annual treatment will con¬ 
sist of reducing the shoots in winter, leav¬ 
ing only sufficient to cover the space with¬ 
out overcrowding. During summer you will 
have to let them grow freely, as the plant 
flowers on the young wood. 
1632. Passion Flower with Dead Leaves. 
A Passion Flower (caeruleaj planted on 
a trellis last spring has recently suffered 
from the cold winds, etc., and the foliage, 
though very dense, is all dead looking and 
limp. The stout stems rising out of the 
soil for 5 ft. or 6 ft. are perfectly green 
and healthy looking. Ought I to prune or 
cut the plant in any way, or simply leave 
it as it is? (Trellis, Middlesex.) 
The common Passion Flower (Passiflora 
caerulea) is not perfectly hardy, although 
it often lives on the walls of houses till it 
covers a great part of the front. Very fre¬ 
quently, however, they get killed entirely 
when a seveTe winter occurs. No doubt 
yours has suffered on account of the recent 
rather severe frost, and March winds merely 
show where the damage had been done dur¬ 
ing frost. You could now, however, go 
about the pruning of it, and thereby re¬ 
move all the unsightly material. The 
branches or shoots that are green and plump 
will no doubt grow later on. Your plan is 
to lay in a number of them about 8 in. 
apart'all over the space at your command, 
and then out away the others. The flowers 
are produced on the young wood of the 
current season, so that you should have 
plenty of blooms on the growth that is 
made. In cutting away any stems that are 
not required make sure that you do not 
leave shoots that may be injured low down 
by the frost, because the tcp part will later 
on die. The shoots that are retained should 
be sound, neither shrivelled nor discoloured 
in the bark. If your plant has been hard 
hit it may happen that all the shoots are 
killed except the main stem. In that case 
it is useless to let them remain. It is a 
case that has do be determined “on inspec¬ 
tion of the plant. 
1633. Overgrown Ivy. 
Over the gateway at the bottom of the 
garden is a strong wooden arch covered 
with Ivy, but it has grown so large as to 
be a nuisance when it rains or during heavy 
falls , of snow. In fact, it has overgrown 
the arch and wants reducing. What do 
you recommend as the best thing to do with 
it? (A. J. Woodward, Notts.) 
Your beet plan will be to look over the 
Ivy and see that all parts of the wood are 
covered with Ivy shoots. If, however, any 
portion is bare some shoots should be laid 
in, and either tied or nailed up with shreds 
so as to cover the wood. All the rest may 
be closely clipped in by means of the garden 
shears. Even the leaves may be clipped, 
leaving nothing but the stems. \ou will 
thus get a fresh growth or covering of 
leaves when growth commences, and this 
will maintain a neat and clean appearance 
through the season. Next year, about the 
same time, the leaves may be cut back in 
the sayne way, as well as any shoots that 
may be hanging away from the wood. The 
clipping should only be done once a year, 
and that in- spring, before growth com¬ 
mences. 
1634. Pruning Forsythia. 
Some years ago I planted a .Forsythia to 
cover the walls of a shed, but it is now a 
mass of shoots hanging away from the wall. 
The shoots are now too numerous for nail¬ 
ing in, but St seems necessary to cut it 
back. What 'is the best time, and what is 
the proper way, to prune it not to destroy 
the flowers? (R. Medland, Lines.) 
Your best plan is to.wait till the plant 
finishes flowering, which should be towards 
the end of April. You can then treat the 
bush as you Hike, The main stems, where 
they have been fastened to the wall, may be 
retained, and a sufficient number of young 
ones to cover all the wall space at your 
disposal. All the other shoots ajid twigs 
should be cut back to a bud at the base. 
During summer fresh wood will be pro¬ 
duced, and, ripening up, will flower again 
