246 
April 6, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
course the grass walk is just a harbour 
for such. Could you tell me if I could do 
anything for the same, as I fear if they 
are as much damaged another year they will 
soon be all eaten up? (Wherenow, N.B.). 
A good plan would be to roll the grass 
walk at intervals during the winter and also 
give it a good sprinkling with lime just 
about the time the bulbs are appearing above 
the ground. This would do something to 
check them. At the same time the border 
itself should be trenched 2 ft. or more deep 
previous to the planting of the bulbs. This 
would get rid of many of the eggs of slugs. 
Then, again, in winter you could place a 
line of lime or else clean sifted coal ashes 
along each side of the grass walk and close 
up to the edge so that it would neither be 
very noticeable nor an eyesore in the garden. 
This would do much to. keep the slugs from 
straying beyond the grass. There is still 
the remedy of laying traps for the slugs in 
the form of bran, oatmeal or cabbage leaves. 
Furthermore, you can go round in the early 
morning in open weather and catch'the cul¬ 
prits at work. You could also go round at 
night with a lantern when the slugs are out 
feeding in mild weather. It might be worth 
your while trying a dusting of Vaporite 
along the edge of the grass. It must not be ■ 
dusted on the leaves of the Hyacinths and 
Tulips. 
17 00. Mossy-Leaved Saxifrages. 
Could you name about eight or a dozen 
mossy-leaved Saxifrages suitable for plant¬ 
ing a rockery to appear green all the year 
round? (D. Steadman, Hants.). 
There would be little difficulty in making 
out double that number of mossy-leaved types 
tf you attempt varieties. We, however, give 
a list that are very distinct, namely, Saxi- 
fraga hypnoides, S. Stembergii, S. caes,- 
pitosa, S. trifurcata, S. muscoides atropur- 
purea, S. m. Rhei, S. m. Rhei Guildford 
Seedling, S. Wallaoei, S. geranioides, S. 
ceratophylla, S. aquatica and S. tenella. 
1701. Flowers for Rose Bed. 
I should like to ask your advice. I have 
a flower bed 12 yds. in length and 2^ wide. 
I have planted twelve Rose trees down the 
middle, a yard between each one. What 
flower would be suitable to plant between 
the trees ; also what other plants would be 
suitable for the bed? I should like some¬ 
thing that would flower well and look nice 
for planting out in May. I might mention 
the bed is in front of the hall. (A Constant 
Reader, Warwickshire). 
We presume your Rose trees are dwarf 
ones or bush Roses, and in such a case we 
should not think of planting anything that 
would grow taller than the Roses because 
the plants would shade them. If the Roses 
had been standards, 5 ft. or 6 ft. apart, you 
could have accommodated a Dahlia between 
every two. If they are bushes you could 
scarcely use taller-growing plants than An¬ 
tirrhinums, Pentstemons or Zinnias. One 
plant of either of these between every two 
Roses would be sufficient, as the Roses should 
have all the benefit of sunshine and air 
possible. We should grow even dwarfer 
plants round the outside of the bed. Vio¬ 
lets or Pansies would be as suitable as any¬ 
thing you could grow as they do not root 
deeply. Calceolarias, Zonal Pelargoniums, 
Indian Pinks (Dianthus chinensis). Phlox 
Drummondi, Nemophila insignis and Mig¬ 
nonette are plants that would be suitable for 
such a purpose. We do not recommend you 
to get all these, but simply to select those 
which you would like best. By getting and 
planting a few lines of Violas alone you 
could get a splendid effect during the sum¬ 
mer without impoverishing the Roses. One 
or two named varieties of Verbenas or a 
packet of mixed seed would also make an 
effective bed if you can manage to rear the 
seedlings. 
17 02. Flowers for Rockery. 
I have* a rookery which' faces the east. 
What flowers would be suitable for it, I 
should like something that would flower 
well and look nice. There is a bit of ground 
at the bottom for a border plant. What 
would you suggest? (A Constant Reader, 
Warwickshire). 
There is quite a host of plants suitable 
for making a rockery and we have selected 
a dozen that will keep up a. succession more 
or less continuous" till September. You 
should get such as Saxifraga Wallacei, S. 
musooides atropurpurea, S. m. Rhei Guild¬ 
ford Seedling, S- ceratophylla, Campanula 
portenschlagiana, C. pumila, C. p. alba, C. 
carpatica turbmata, Alyssum saxatile, Iberis 
sempervirens garrexiana, Myosotis alpestris 
Victoria, Phlox subulata Nelsoni and Poly¬ 
gonum vacciniaefolium. These will give 
you a certain amount of variety, a succes¬ 
sion of bloom, and in the course of a year or 
two any quantity of material, but if you 
wish other types then you can ask for the 
same. A herbaceous plant that would be 
suitable for the border you mention would 
be Rudbeckia speciosa, with golden-yellow 
flowers, or Chrysanthemum maximum King 
Edward VII., with white flowers. 
ROSES. 
1703. Colours of Roses. 
Kindly inform me the colours of the fol¬ 
lowing standard Roses: — Vicks (Vix?) Ca¬ 
price, Mme. Georges Vibert, Mme. Arthur 
Oger and Robert Duncan; also a climbing 
Rose Lady Gay? (KemsoLj Middlesex). 
The first-named Rose should be named 
Caprice, the other names attached to it being 
those of the raiser, but that was really Von 
Vivant Faivre. This variety is bright rose, 
but variable according to conditions' of cli¬ 
mate prevailing. Mme. Georges Vibert has 
rosy-purple flowers. Those of Mme Arthur 
Oger we are uncertain about, unless the 
name is mis-spelled. There is one named 
Mme. Pierre Oger with blush flowers. Ro¬ 
bert Duncan has rosy-lake flowers, while 
those of Lady Gay are cherry-pink and 
double. The first three varieties are very 
old. 
1704. Pruning of Rose Gardenia. 
Will you kindly tell me if I should prune 
a climbing Rose, which I believe is Gar¬ 
denia ? It was planted the autumn before 
last and had one bloom until last summer. 
It is now rather straggling at the base, has 
two runners 6 ft. high and several strong 
suckers, which appear to have come stra-ighi 
from the roots. These latter are about 18 in. 
long. I want to train the long runners in 
either direction along a single rail about 
5 ft. high. You might also tell me if I am 
correct regarding the name. It appears to 
be an evergreen tree, the leaves being very 
shiny. The flower is a single pale yellow. 
(Novice, Middlesex). 
From your description of it we should 
think it is rightly named Gardenia. It is 
one of the hybrid Wichuraiana Roses with a 
little of the Tea blood in it. We should 
describe it as a semi-double rather than 
single, as it has more than five petals. This 
class does not require much pruning. You 
would, of course, cut away any dead wood 
that is present and remove the unripened tips 
of the strong shoots. If the shoots are too 
numerous you will have to reduce their num¬ 
ber by thinning them out. Stems about two 
or three years old give the best results in 
this particular type. It is always well, 
however, to have young wood to fall back 
on, so that any stems can be replaced that 
are failing in vigour. The runners that are 
6 ft. high can be trained in their entire 
length, except the unripened tip9. What 
you describe as suckers do not seem to have 
made much growth last year. Your best 
plan would be to shorten them back half 
their length and possibly other and strong* 
ones will be given off from the base duri. 
the coming summer. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
1705. Moving Euonymus in Growth. 
I have some well-coloured bushes of gold* 
variegated Euonymus which I want to tal 
with me to a new garden, but they ha' 
commenced to grow. Do you think it is po 
sible to make them live by moving them : 
this condition? (Forsythia, Middlesex;. 
If you well water the ground the day befo 
you commence to lift them you would pr 
bably be able to retain some soil about tl 
roots. That being so, there would be litt 
or no danger of transplanting the Euonymi 
safely. The only danger, if any, is th. 
the young shoots may be too far advance 
and tender. Such shoots would be liable 
flag if you get dry and warm weather aft. 
they are transplanted. You can, howeve 
cut away those growing shoots if they shoul 
•flag and the plants will sprout out agai: _ 
Make the plants quite firm and when tl 
holes are about half filled give a good soa 
ing with water. Allow this to sink away 
the soil, then fill up the holes with the r 
mainder of the soil, leaving only a shallo 
basin round the base of the plant for futu: 
watering until the plants recommence grot 
ing. 
1706. Moving Forsythia in Bloom. 
My .Forsythia is in bloom and in a fe 
days will be a fine sight. Is it possible 
save the plant, even if the flowers have 
go, as I want to transplant it with tl 
Euonymus? Your advice on this matt, 
would be greatly esteemed. (Forsythi. 
Middlesex). 
If you can manage to lift the plant with 
good ball of soil about the roots there shoul 
be even less danger in transplanting a Fo 
sythia than a Euonymus. If the mass c 
soil is proportionate to the size of the plai 
there should be no difficulty in keeping tl 
plant alive, and some of the flowers eve 
may open and give a fair display. Tl 
points to be observed are to maintain a ma: 
of soil about the roots, to plant firmly an 
water well. As soon as the flowers are ove 
all the young wood can be pruned bad 
after which there would be no danger t 
your plant whatever, as the fresh growth 
makes this summer will flower next spring 
VEGETABLES. 
17 07. Celery Plants. 
Can any of your readers supply' me wit 
a few good Celery plants to push on fc 
August show? I shall be most grateful 
someone will help me. (E. Skelding, Iy 
Cottage, Uphampton, near Droitwich.) 
1708. Marrows and Cucumbers it 
Tubs. 
I have thought of trying to grow a Marrox 
and Cucumber plant in a tub or tubs place 
on the roof of an out-house in a Londhl 
suburban back garden. The roof is at a: 
angle formed by two high walls, but get 
the sun most of the day. How should 
prepare the soil? Would very ordinary do 
and manure from a stable? (E. M., Kent. 
We presume you want to train the plant- 
upon stakes driven in the tubs. If you 
manage to rear the plants, we see no reasoi 
why you should not succeed under these 
conditions by careful management. Th. 
Cucumber should, of course, be one of th< 
ridge Cucumbers and not the frame Cucum 
ber. We should not advise you to us- 
fresh manure in the soil. It should b< 
laid in a heap, and fermented until it ha: 
become well rotted, reduced in bulk, ant 
altogether different from the fresh material 
If you cannot conveniently do this, it woulc 
be necessary to apply to a florist for som< 
