TUB GARDENING WORLD 
April 13, 1907. 
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IIS-Lz^Popular Illustrated Gardening!^ 
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6difopial. 
^ook. 
In 1895 *k e National Chrysanthemum 
Society issued a year book with the hope 
that it might be useful and interesting to 
the members of the society and growers 
of the “golden flower” at large. It did 
not meet with a ready sale, and the enter¬ 
prise was abandoned, but it has recon¬ 
sidered the situation, and now sends'out 
the Chrysanthemum Year Book for 1907. 
The Society has been encouraged to do 
this by reason of the success attending 
the publication of year books of various 
other societies, such as the National Rose, 
the Sweet Pea, the National Potato and 
the National Carnation and Picotee, and 
which meet with a large measure otf suc¬ 
cess. 
The present issue contains articles by 
various writers, including “Chrysanthe¬ 
mums in America ” by Mr. Charles H. 
Totty, Madison, New Jersey, “Chrysan¬ 
themums in Decorations ” by Dorothy M. 
Oliver, “ Early Chrysanthemums from 
Stool Divisions ” by Mr. Percy A. Cragg, 
“Chrysanthemums in Australia” by Mr. 
Thomas W. Pockett, who is well known 
in this country, both personally and from 
the large number of varieties raised in 
Australia and found useful for exhibition 
in this country. The incurved Chrysan¬ 
themum is dealt with by Mr. W. Higgs, 
one of the champion growers of that class. 
The analysis of the Society’s November 
shows during 1905 to 1906 have been dealt 
with by Mr. C. M. Collingwood. This 
seems to be the nearest attempt at giving 
a list of recent introductions, unless we 
refer to the work of the Classification 
Committee in which some new varieties 
have been recorded and described as new 
sections. For instance, the society now 
recognises what they call • miniature- 
flowered Pompons, and under that head 
the various varieties having small button¬ 
like flowers are recorded. The other new^ 
section consists of decorative Chrysanthe¬ 
mums which are useful for cut flower pur¬ 
poses, but of no service for the production 
of big blooms. 
Mr. W. C. Pagram, a champion grower 
of single Chrysanthemums, deals with that 
section in a short chapter. Mr. C. H. 
Curtis, F.R.H.S., lists and describes the 
new Chrysanthemums of 1906, and which 
were accorded awards or certificates by 
the Floral Committee. The list of awards 
made by the Floral Committee of the 
French National Chrysanthemum Society 
are dealt with bv the foreign correspond¬ 
ing secretary, Mr. C. Harman Payne. 
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Plants 
Which . . 
Will Thrive 
In Shady Places. 
o 
Every amateur longs to know what will 
thrive under .his trees or in his north bor¬ 
der, and often seeks in vain unless he is 
so fortunate as to take in some good gar¬ 
dening paper. I offer him a few hints 
from my own experience. 
Of course, one must not expect any 
plants to produce much in the way of 
rapid growth or vivid colour, but for all 
that beauty of shape and grouping, rest- 
fulness and satisfaction of colouring are 
easily obtainable. 
AUCUPAS, male and female, planted 
together, will make very handsome orna¬ 
ments, and the female Aucubas will yield 
a brave display of berries. 
Barberries of all kinds give us form, 
exquisite foliage, beautiful berries, and 
charming autumn tints. 
Box has delightful varieties of foliage; 
Broom is charming, and Cotoneasters, 
as bushes, wall plants, or trailers, give us 
lovely forms, foliage and berries. To 
these may be added Dogwood, Hollies, 
Hypericum, Laurels, Leycesteria, and 
Rhododendron ponticum are even more 
effective. 
Ivies for walls, for trees, for rockeries, 
and as trailers are specially amenable to 
treatment and offer us a great wealth of 
exquisitely cut leaves, and foliage of vari¬ 
ous colours. 
Periwinkle, a low growing plant with 
blue or white flowers, and green or varie¬ 
gated foliage, will thrive anywhere. 
Privet is an exceedingly valuable 
shrub of which the gold and silver varie¬ 
ties are very showy. 
Yews of many kinds offer us a lovely 
shade of green, in many cases relieved by 
bright scarlet berries. 
Then we have Ferns and a host of 
other plants. Surely with all these the 
amateur ought to be able to make a grand 
display in shady places. 
This may be augmented by training the 
plants into various forms, and by group¬ 
ing them effectively. Many of them can 
be utilised for tubs, pots and bo'xes, and 
some make lovely small trees. Indeed, I 
venture to think the amateur who does 
not make his shady places beautiful does 
not deserve a garden. 
Those who contemplate studying the 
subject would do well to consult the 
queries pages of The Gardening World, 
as well as their local gardeners, and by 
exercising their own powers of observa¬ 
tion. Baynton-Taylor. 
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Seedling Carnations. 
Seedling Carnations flower very freely, 
are generally more robust than those pio- 
pagated in other ways, and also aftorri us 
a special charm in the ever-present chance 
of some new or unique form appearing. 
A little seed should be got from a good 
firm—say a shilling or two-ancl-sixpenny 
packet. Then care in handling and. sow¬ 
ing will be almost sure to give us some 
pleasing lesults. We may sow from 
February until September, but perhaps 
May is the best month. If sowing before 
March half fill a pan with clean crocks, 
place a little moss over these, and then a 
layer of sandy soil. Water well. Sow the 
seeds thinly (iin. apart is not too far for 
sound seeds), then cover with not more 
than an eighth of an inch of the same com¬ 
post. If half plunged to avoid drought a 
fairly warm greenhouse temperature wi.l 
soon cause germination. I like to cover 
che pan with a sheet of glass and keep it 
dark until the seeds move. If we do this 
and partially plunge as well there is little 
fear of their needing more water before 
the young plants appear. Lift and stand 
close to> the glass, as we never want the 
young plants to become drawn. 
The advantage of thin sowing is that we 
can leave them in the seed pans or boxes 
and gradually harden them off, ready for 
transplanting by the middle or end of 
May, Prick them off into a fresh and 
clean soil, giving them a distance of 4 or 5 
inches each way. The following spring 
about the end of March plant them in 
their permanent quarters, and do not cast 
away the weak looking ones. In almost 
all cases the extra vigorous looking seed¬ 
lings are singles. These should not be 
cast on one side, however, as they are so 
continuous blooming and useful for cut 
flowers with long stems. 
If we sow later, say, in May or June, a 
well sheltered and prepared border will 
do very well.. In this case leave them in 
the seed bed till the following March 
or April. Then, if we transplant them, 
they will bloom freely the ensuing sum¬ 
mer. Transplant Carnations in Septem¬ 
ber or March. Well moved and loamy 
soils are best, and I do not care for one 
too rich in humus. Nothing beats a yel¬ 
low turfy loam, but seedling Carnations 
are fairly accommodating. A little soot is 
one of the best .fertilisers, and keeps m^ny 
insect pests away. As border flowers there 
are few prettier or hardier plants than 
a good strain of seedling Carnations, and 
if we take a little trouble in neatly tying 
them up as the bloom spikes advance they 
are safe from bad weather. I save my 
Filbert suckers for this purpose. They 
are sufficiently strong and quickly pre¬ 
pared, and do not look so unsightly, to 
my fancy, as the deal sticks frequently 
used. 
Charlton Kings. P. Guy. 
NAME COMPETITION. 
The results of the “ Name Competi¬ 
tion ” (No. 2) will be announced next 
week. 
