The Flower Garden. 
Gardeners and Gardeners. 
During the past week or two there has 
been feverish activity amongst the half-and- 
half type of gardener. This type usually 
wakes up to the fact that it is time to make 
a move when Good Friday arrives. Like 
the snail, he goes to roost, as it were, when 
October comes in, and forgets all about his 
garden until spring has sprung. Of course 
the thorough-going gardener also becomes 
very active, not feverishly so, for having 
made early preparations he is able to cope 
with spring work without over-taxing him- 
•self to the extent of having to dig the gar¬ 
den on Good Friday and planting and sow¬ 
ing on Easter Monday. 
The Weather. 
Right through the latter half of March 
we had wonderful weather, with extremely 
powerful sunshine, although the nights were 
bitterly cold. Nevertheless, March, 1907, 
was a distinct improvement on March, 1906, 
for then we literally swam in water, where¬ 
as this year we had to fall back upon the 
water-can when planting out small things. 
Calceolarias, etc. 
The planting of perennials and biennials 
should have been completed by this time in 
order to give them a fair chance. Calceo¬ 
larias ought to go in now, for there, is no 
doubt that late planting is the cause of 
these fine bedders going off without any 
apparent reason. 
Sweet Peas. 
It is now safe to plant out early raised 
Sweet Peas. If they are being set out singly 
always make the holes deep enough to take 
the roots at full length. Sweet Peas natu¬ 
rally strike deeply, and by so planting they 
get over the shift more quickly than when 
the roots are cramped into a shallow hole. 
If the seeds were sown in threes in small 
pots, no disturbance is necessary. 
Pricking- Out Annuals. 
Annuals raised in frames should now be 
growing steadily, and in many cases they 
will be ready for pricking out. For this 
purpose always use boxes, and fill them al¬ 
most level With good light soil. A full 
third of well rotted manure encourages the 
seedlings to make a lot of fibrous roots, so 
that at the time for planting out they may 
be cut out without any fear of the soil 
falling away from the roots. The general 
run of half-hardy annuals require 1^ to 
2 inches of room when pricked out. A light 
sprinkling with a fine rosed can should 
follow, after which the boxes should be 
placed in cool frames, the lights being kept 
close for a few days. If the seedlings have 
been subjected to a fair amount of heat, and 
space will allow it, they will get hold of 
the soil more quickly if kept in the warm 
frame for a few days. However, it is not 
wise to use great heat with the general run 
of things, so that if after pricking out the 
seedlings are placed in cooler quarters they 
will do quite well, but it is advisable to 
cover the frames at night. Be very careful 
with water, as damping off is likely to cause 
trouble. 
Pruning Roses. 
Rose pruning is a matter that causes a 
rre-a: deal c-f heart-burning, but it is not 
really a serious matter. The most serious 
item is when people prune too early, so that 
frost badly injures the young shoots. I have 
had some of it, and so can speak from ex¬ 
perience. Pruning need no longer be de¬ 
layed in any quarter. Although some people 
say that Teas do not require much pruning, 
1 certainly give my own a fairly hard 
turn. This season I , have had to prune 
harder than usual, owing to the injury by 
frost. 
Clematis. 
Everyone is fond of Clematises, and the 
present time is a good one for planting. 
Strong plants are always obtainable in pots, 
the price runping from is. upwards. Prune 
or cut back hard the Jackmanni type, as they 
flower entirely upon the current growths. 
It is always advisable when buying locally 
to ascertain what .group the plants belong 
to, as if the lanuginosa or florida type is 
substituted for jackmanni, one may perhaps 
cut back hard, and so cut away all the 
flowers, as these latter types, together with 
a few others, flower on old wood. 
Other Climbing Plants. 
While on the climbing plant subject it 
would be as well to point out that there 
is still time to plant such things as Ivies, 
Passion Flowers, Roses, Honeysuckles, etc., 
providing the plants have been grown in 
pots Many nurserymen make a speciality 
of pot plants of this kind. 
Lawns. 
Law-ns have now reached a stage resem¬ 
bling. a small boy’s hair before he goes to 
the barber. Unless the machine is a power¬ 
ful one, it will be found better to leave the 
collecting box off. Before commencing to 
mow, make sure that the grass is free from 
stones and odd pieces. A thorough sweep¬ 
ing and rolling should precede mowing. 
Evergreen Shrubs and Trees. 
The present is the best time for planting 
evergreen shrubs and trees, like Hollies, 
Yews, Pines, etc. It has long been known 
that such shrubs stand shifting better when 
they are just commencing to grow. Should 
dry weather follow, water must be given and 
an occasional spraying will help the shrubs 
along. 
Gladioli and the Summer Hyacinth. 
Gladioli should no longer be kept out of 
tfye ground. The beautiful summer Hya¬ 
cinth, Galtonia candicans, should also be 
planted at once. 
The Fruit Garden. 
Strawberries. 
Autumn-planted beds of Strawberries will 
pay for hoeing if there is no manure mulch 
to prevent it. Pot plants may still be set 
out. Make the soil very firm and mulch 
with manure afterwards. 
Catch Crops. 
It is usual with many people to utilise 
the spaces between newly-planted Straws 
for growing Lettuces and ether catch crops. 
Figs. 
Outdoor Figs should be pruned without 
further delay. Young trees may still be 
planted from pots. 
Wall Trees. 
Wall trees now in flower must be pro¬ 
tected at nights to ward off frosts. 
Peaches and Nectarines suffer from blister 
a great deal if thev are not protected frem 
very cold winds. Fish netting would be a 
draughty costume for we poor humans, but 
it serves well for protecting such fruits as 
April 1 3> 1907. 
it splits up the winds as it were. He 
growers surround their plantations. wi 
coarse netting for this very reason. 
Hoeing Among Fruit Trees. 
The hoe should now be at work amor 
fruit trees that have not been mulched wi 
manure. As I have frequently pointed ou 
there is no hoe so good as the Sproughtc 
for such work. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Celery. 
Early-raised Celery should now be fit fc 
planting out in beds, providing that th 
plants have been thoroughly hardenec 
There is no better way to get good,-stron 
stuff than by making up a firm base o 
ashes, and covering it with a couple o 
inches of well-rotted manure. Over thi 
spread an inch or so of good, light s<ii 
and set out the plants from about 4 to (I 
inches apart. 
Cauliflowers. 
The other occupants of frames, such a 
Tomatos and Cauliflower, should be growing 
nicely now. The latter, if thoroughly har 
dened, may be planted out in rich soil. 
A New savoy. 
The last of the Brassicas should now b« 
sown. Last season I mentioned that I wa ; 
trying a new conical-headed Savoy. Thi; 
proved to be a really fine thing, and it caused 
quite a stir when I exhibited it at our local 
shows. 
T urnips. 
It is pretty well safe to sow Turnips any¬ 
where now, as the seed comes up quickly. 
Dust over with lime or road dust as soon 
as the seedlings appear. The flea does not 
relish this dressing. Grass from the mow¬ 
ing box is also of great value. 
Various Sowings. 
Maimcrop Peas may be sown, also French 
Beans. Frequent sowings of Lettuce and 
Radish are essential to keep up a constant 
supply. 
Planting Potatos. 
Soil that is right should be planted with 
Potatos, but unsprouted sets should not be 
used unless they are reliable. 
Early Peas. 
Early Peas should have a little earth 
drawn towards them. Give stacks to varie¬ 
ties that grow above one foot in height. 
Onions. 
Early-raised Onions, if well hardened, 
should now be set out. Keep the soil well 
stirred afterwards: 
Marrows and Ridge Cucumbers. 
Marrows and ridge 'Cucumbers may be 
sown in pots under a hand-light or frame. 
A slight heat, it possible, should be given. 
Hgrti. 
The Amateur’s Greenhouse. 
Crotons and Dracaenas. 
These may now 1 be taken* in hand, with a 
view to increase, in almost any greenhouse 
warmed by hot-water pipes. The plants 
should be made thoroughly clean before 
cutting them up, as insects thrive apace 
under the warm and moist conditions that 
are essential to successful propagation. 
Full details of tongueing and ringing these 
were given in the issue of [February 23rd, 
and I would refer interested readers thereto. 
Shade will, however, be more important now 
than, it was when the notes were written, 
and owing to increased sun heat, one may 
well be more liberal with the supply of 
moisture. Old plants which are not leggy 
and shabb}' may now be repotted, though 
if well fed they will generally remain two 
seasons in the same sized pot. Weak soot 
water is a splendid stimulant for Crotons 
and Dracaenas, and may be given at every 
