THE GARDENING WORLD. 
263 
April 13, -19° 7 * 
Fruit Growing 
FOR Amateurs. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
732 . Fixing Tortoise Stove. 
In accordance with your kind advice, I am 
aving the small tortoise stove put into the 
nail house 8 It. by 5 ft. as represented by 
le sketch. Please state if this will_be right. 
vanda. Staffs.) 
The sheet iron that you mention might be 
xed up on a framework of wood a little 
istance away from the wood of the green- 
ouse. This would prevent the latter from 
itching fire, or even getting injured, if the 
leet of iron should happen to .get hot. The 
ink for holding water might have been 
idden by placing it beneath the staging, 
n greenhouses and other plant growing 
nurtures it is always best to keep these use- 
ill but unsightly structures as well out of 
ight as possible. No doubt you could fit up 
bracket underneath the staging that would 
upport the tank leaving just sufficient open- 
ig so that you can see whether it requires 
efilling from time to time. The other ar- 
angements represented in the plan appear 
> be perfectly correct. 
733. Method of Applying Lawn Sand. 
When is the best time' to apply lawn sand 
or killing weeds in the grass, and how 
luch of it should I use? Our lawn is r6 ft. 
y 20 ft., and has many Daisies and Dande- 
ions upon it. Will it hurt the grass if too 
luch of it is applied, and is it dangerous 
d use in the hands? (G. R. Page, Lancs.) 
If the weather is as dry with you as it 
as been here for some time past, the pre- 
ent is as good a time as any for applying 
he lawn sand to the grass. A dry time is 
.lvvays the best. It is in the form of a 
owder or salt, which you can sprinkle on 
•ith the hands. It is not dangerous to use, 
lthough you could apply too much of it 
d the grass, for the simple reason that it is 
ery soluble, and in a rainy time soon gets 
.'ashed away without doing much good at 
filing Daisies and Dandelions. For de- 
troying Daisies, you may apply it at the 
ate of 4 ozs. to the square yard. The 
landelions would, of course, get some at 
he same time, but you would require to drop 
n extra quantity on each crown of Dande- 
ion to destroy them. You would thus re- 
[uire about q lbs. to give the lawn a do^e 
11 over, but another pound would give you 
ome to play with for destroying the Dan- 
elions. It is sometimes necessary to go over 
he Dandelions a second time, because they 
oot so deeply, and some of the roots may 
prcut again, but a second dose placed on 
he crown is usually sufficient to effect their 
lestruction. 
NAMES OF PLANTS. 
(C. C.) 1, Adiantum Ghiesbreghtii; 2, 
Vdiantum cuneatum.—(A. G. R.) 1, Anemone 
fepatica caerulea; 2, Arabis albida; 4, 
'.rica carnea; 4, Vinca minor ; 5, Scilla bi- 
olia.—(T. Sidney) i, Pyrus japonica; 2, 
'Piraea Thunbergii; 3. Viburnum Tinus. — 
L. D. W.) 1, Erica carnea; 2, Narcissus 
ainimus; 2, Narcissus cyclamineus; 3, 
’cilia bifolia alba; 4, Scilla sibirica; 5, 
'rocus vernus var. ; 6, Crocus aureus var.— 
D. Warwick) 1, Petasites communis; 2, 
usilago Farfara ; 3. Vinca minor; 4. Viola 
firta.—(T. H. C.) r. Arabis albida variegata ; 
?, Arabis albida flore pleno; 3, Narcissus 
> seudo-Narcissus plenus. 
rRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Hugh Low and Co., Royal Nurseries, 
lush Hill Park, Middlesex.—Carnations. 
Mm. Watson and Sons, Clontarf Nur- 
eries, Dublin.—Plants for the Garden. 
Mm. Cutbush and Son, Highgate Nur- 
cries. Londoq, N.»— Catalogue of Dahlias; 
fiso Special List of New and Rare Hardy 
lants; New Roses; and New Verbenas, 
Summer Treatment. — In the case of 
small bushes it will only be necessary to 
put on a mulch of rotten manure about 
half a yard from the stem of the plant, 
as, within this circle all the roots will be 
contained. 
But when dealing with older planta¬ 
tions where the roots permeate the whole 
of the surface, the mulch should be put 
on all over the surface, too. It is really 
L 
6. Sh'jws the had results of -pruning to 
a bud which points downwards. 
wonderful how long a time the soil will 
remain in a moist state just under the 
mulching material, and in consequence 
of this moist condition of soil surface 
roots ‘will become abundant and both 
trees and fruit benefit considerably. 
Summer pruning of Gooseberries 
should be done towards the end of June 
or early in July. This pruning consists 
of the removal of weakly shoots which 
tend to overcrowd others of better 
quality; and where shoots are very thick 
towards the centre of the tree, some 
should be cut out, as it is essential that 
plenty of light be admitted to ripen the 
fruit and branches. 
Autumn Pruning. — Directly the leaves 
ha,ve fallen commence the pruning of 
the bushes. Aim at forming a well- 
/■ 
7. Shows the good results of pruning to 
1 1 bud which points upwards % 
balanced bush with all shoots free of each 
other and the centre open. Probably 
much thinning out will be needed. Be¬ 
fore shortening back any shoots, be quite 
satisfied that there are not any which 
should be entirely removed. The thin¬ 
ning must be done with a view of creat¬ 
ing a nice balance; then cut back the re¬ 
maining shoots of the current year’s 
growth, only a few inches of wood need, 
as a rule, be cut off—the unripe ends. 
Prune to upper buds. (See Fig. 7.) 
Where the bushes incline to droop,- never 
prune to a bud on the lower side of the 
shoots. (See Fig. 6.) Clear away all 
prunings and dead leaves as clean as you 
would sweep a lawn. Carefully remove 
any suckers which mav spring up from 
the base of the bush. (See Fig. 8.) 
Winter Digging and' Manuring.— 
Do not attempt to dig in manure regard¬ 
less of the close proximity to the surface 
of the roots, as the latter must be care¬ 
fully preserved. With the aid of a rake 
or hoe remove the loose soil from beneath 
the bushes and spread some rotted 
manure there, simply covering the 
8 . 
S. Shows suckers A, A, growing round 
the stem of the bush through neglecting 
to pick out the basal eyes or buds on the 
cutting. 
manure with the loose soil. See Fig. 11 
for the method of training a double 
cordon Gooseberry). 
Gooseberries for Exhibition.— The 
first essential is to plant the right varie¬ 
ties (please see list); the second, high 
culture and fairlv severe pruning; and 
the third, the due thinning out of berries 
while they are very small, only leaving 
a few to ripen on each bush. Strong, 
young bushes are better than old ones 
for this purpose. Gather the fruits with 
stems attached, and, if ripe berries are 
required, see that they are not cracked. 
Exposure to rains when they are ripe will 
cause the berries to split open. 
Insect Pests.— The caterpillars of the 
Magpie Moth (see Fig. 9^ feed upon the 
young leaves early in the season, eating 
the whole of the’ leaf except the ribs. 
Hand-picking will do much good, but 
it is wise policy to clear away every bit 
of dead leaf and some of the surface soil 
in the autumn so as to get rid of tUe 
