272 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
April 20, 1907. 
plenty of light. No shading is yet 
necessary. 
Seeds of choice varieties may still be 
sown if that has not been accomplished. 
If only a small quantity of seed was 
saved, as is frequently the case in the 
crossing of choice varieties, they may be 
grown entirely in pots and flowered dur¬ 
ing the winter to determine their quality. 
Larger batches could be planted in the 
open air if they were sown about the be¬ 
ginning of March. Such plants will, 
in many cases, bloom before they are 
lifted from the ground, and it can then 
be seen whether they are worthy of atten¬ 
tion and increase. 
Malmaisons. 
The earlier flowering varieties should 
receive attention in the matter of disbud¬ 
ding if large blooms are required, and 
this is usually a desideratum amongst 
those who grow Malmaisons. The 
lateral buds should be removed as soon 
as it is possible to do so with the finger 
and thumb without injuring the terminal 
one. 
Keep a watch upon diseased plants, as 
the various kinds of spot or Carnation 
disease, contracted, perhaps, in the moist 
and early part of the vear, will now be 
showing themselves. The worst of the 
leaves should be removed and burned 
and the plants syringed either with Bor¬ 
deaux mixture or sulphide of potassium 
at the rate of ]/n oz. to the gallon of 
water. 
Marguerite Carnations. 
Early batches of seedlings should now 
be ready for transplanting into boxes or 
for potting up separately. While it is 
possible to transfer them from boxes to 
the open ground at the end of May, the 
operation is much safer if the plants have 
been grown in small pots, especially if 
the weather should prove dr}' immediately 
after the operation. 
American Carnations. 
Early struck cuttings should by this 
time require potting into 3J4 in. or 5 in. 
pots, according to the size of the plants. 
It will be necessary to give careful atten¬ 
tion to watering, keeping the soil just 
nicely moist. To overdo it would, how¬ 
ever, be equally injurious. A night tem¬ 
perature of 50 degs. will be quite 
sufficient to make them grow steadily. 
They should be freely ventilated during 
the day. Much the same, perhaps, 
might apply to the old plants, which may 
still be giving a supply of flowers. Water¬ 
ing and ventilation are, indeed, the prin¬ 
cipal factors in the case at present. 
Plenty of air ensures stems and foliage of 
good texture, and the flowers will benefit 
in a similar degree. 
J. D. F. W. 
-- 
The Chinese grew beautiful Peaches 
2,000 years before the fruit was known in 
Europe. 
Mignonette for Pots. 
The old Mignonette, Machet, is still 
said by practical growers to be the best 
in existence for pot culture. 
Invention of Glass-roofs for Greenhouses. 
Glass-roofs for greenhouses were inven¬ 
ted in 1717. Previously to that green¬ 
houses were merely chambers with more 
glass windows in front than was usual in 
dwelling-houses. 
TUBEROUS- 
Begonias, 
Their Culture 
for Exhibition 
by Amateurs. 
Probably no plant has risen so much 
in popularity m recent years, among 
amateurs, and horticulturists generally, 
as that now known as the tuberous rooted 
Begonia. 
Twenty years ago it was little known, 
and it was mainly due to the efforts of the 
late Mr. John Laing, that we have the 
present day splendid development of this 
flower. 
1 hose who have the opportunity of pay¬ 
ing a visit to the great Temple Show in 
May or June, where these flowers are 
shown in such a magnificent array of 
colours and of such fine size by some of 
our leading growers, will at once want 
to try their hand at cultivating these beau¬ 
tiful subjects. It is a fitting companion 
to the Gloxinia, and is equally valuable 
for exhibition purposes, and, what is of 
more importance to the amateur, it is not 
quite so difficult to grow. As specimens 
they are excellent, while for grouping, 
they are e'xtremely useful if arranged with 
Maidenhair Ferns and other light foliage 
plants. 
For exhibition purposes, bulbs or 
tubers, at least two years old, are recom¬ 
mended, that is if nice sized specimens 
are required. These can be obtained 
from advertisers in the Gardening 
W orld. Those who have the necessary 
convenience should start the tubers in 
March or April, by laying them in a shal¬ 
low box, in leaf mould, or cocoanut fibre, 
in a warm greenhouse, or in a frame over 
a gentle hot-bed. When roots are being 
freely emitted and the leaves are begin¬ 
ning to push up, pot up the plants into 
large 60 size pots or 48s, according to the 
size of the plants, using a compost of good 
fibrous loam 2 parts, leaf mould 1 part, 
with a good dash of coarse silver sand, 
the whole being thoroughly mixed to¬ 
gether. They will also start in a cool 
house with no fire heat, but of course will 
not start so quickly. When potted up, it is 
necessary to keep the plants* near the glass 
so as to prevent them becoming drawn 
and to keep the plants sturdy, with good 
foliage, which means good flowers. 
W hen the plants are large enough (and 
this can be readily ascertained by knock¬ 
ing one out, and if the roots have reached 
the bottom of the pot, they are ready for 
a shift), pot them on into their flowering 
pots. Six inch or 32 size will usually be 
found large enough, but in the case of an 
extra vigorous plant, a 24 size or 8 inch 
pot may be used. Use a compost as re¬ 
commended before, but with the addition 
of a little fertiliser. About a 6d. packet 
to a bushel of compost would be well 
under the mark. They should be potted 
moderately firm and shaded from very 
strong sunshine. When well established 
they may receive applications of weak 
liquid manure water, not more than twice 
a week; this will ensure strong growth, 
fine, deep-coloured foliage, and plenty of 
large fine-coloured blooms. 
Tie out and support the growths with 
neat stakes, so that plenty of light and air 
may reach all parts of the plant. For ex¬ 
hibition purposes it is advisable to pinct 
off the side blooms or seed-bearin° 
flowers. 
After they have done flowering, with¬ 
hold water gradually. When all growth 
Iras died down they may be stored in any 
cool place away from frost, or left in the 
pots, which should be laid on their sides 
under the stage. 
One is often asked to name the varieties 
which are the best, or most suitable, in 
this case, but this is somewhat difficult to 
do, as so many new varieties are bein? 
constantly introduced. I will, howeveq 
endeavour to give a list of 12 double? and 
12 singles, which are still considered by 
the majority of growers to be good :— 
•DOUBLES. 
Crimson. —J. B. Blackmore; J. T. 
Bennett-Poe. 
Orange Scarlet.— General Baden- 
Powell; Mr. W. G. Valentine. 
Salmon. —Charles Turner; - Sir Tohn 
Pender. 
ROSE OR Pink.— La France; Pink Per¬ 
fection. 
White.— Lord Roberts. 
Blush. —Lady White. 
Yellow. — Duchess of Albany; Miss 
F alconer. 
SINGLES. 
CRIMSON. —King of the Begonias; Sir 
Trevor Lawrence. 
Orange Scarlet. —Prince of Orange; 
Jardin des Plantes. 
Salmon. — Mrs. L. Lunt; Salmonea. 
Rose or Pink. — R ose Perfection ; Mi's 
Cannell. 
W HITE. — Snowstorm. 
Blush. — Miss Masters. 
Yellow. — Queen of Yellows; Jealousy. 
With the Editor’s permission, in 
another article at a future date, I intend 
to deal with the winter flowering- section. 
A. E. C. 
-- 
Soot. 
Its Value .. 
As Manure. 
The usefulness of soot as a gardener': 
assistant is not so fully appreciated as i 
might be. A good many make use of r 
as a deterrent against attacks of snaih 
and slugs, but it is very probable that it; 
action in causing quicker growth is ever 
more beneficial than its distaste to the 
slimy gentry. Is it asked what crops may 
have a dressing of soot as a fertiliser: 
Then let it be known that there are few 
plants growing, either out of doors or in. 
but will benefit by having a dressing oi 
dry soot, or an application of soot water. 
It may be objected by some that on light, 
hot soils, soot will only increase the diffi¬ 
culties and plants will be harmed instead 
of benefited. Those who think thus are 
advised to give it a trial, and it is believed 
that nothing but good will accrue. The 
