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THE GARDENING WORLD. 
aM 
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12. Shows how the new shoots grow in 
spring after -pruning. A, the leading shoot. 
B, B, B, side shoots hearing hunches , one or 
two of which may he left to mature. 
7 SJ 
13. Shows how to treat a Vine branch. It 
should be stopped at A, about four leaves 
beyond the bunch C, and all sublaterals B, 
pinched out afterwards. 
r 
14. This sketch shows how to prune a 
branch growing on an old spur. A, shows 
the main hud to take care of. B, B, old 
knots representing former prunings. 
May 4, 1907. 
be allowed to get very dry, neither must 
it be over watered. The buds will burst 
into growth very quickly, but you must 
not be deceived about the root action, 
as roots will not form until one month or 
so from the date of the insertion of the 
“eyes.” But when roots have formed 
vou must gradually remove the pans from 
the bed and expose them to the air of 
the house, the temperature of which 
should be about 68 degrees. 
In due course very carefully repot the 
young plants separately in 3^ in. pots, 
using a similar kind of loam and leaf soil 
as when you put in the “eyes.” After 
potting return the pots to the hotbed for 
about a fortnight, but keep the frame 
open so that the young plants will be ex¬ 
posed to the atmosphere and temperature 
of the house. 
Once more repot the plants when neces¬ 
sary, and ripen the young canes in a cool 
house—or in the open air—in ,the autumn 
(see Fig. 9). About the middle of De¬ 
cember they should be cut down to, within 
a few “ eyes” or buds of the 'base, then 
the next year’s growth will be strong, and 
at the end of the year the young plants 
will be fit for planting in Vine borders 
permanently (see Fig. 10). 
How and When to Plant Vines.— 
Some persons recommend planting to 
be done in April while the young shoots 
are about 4 inches long. Well, this is a 
good plan to adopt by those who have had 
plenty of experience with Vines generally; 
but I do not . advise amateurs to adopt it. 
The best time to purchase your Vines 
is in November. By the middle of De¬ 
cember the canes will be quite mature; 
then cut them back to 18 inches-from the 
base; never mind if the rods are 6 feet 
long, so much the better if they are, cut 
away all but 18 inches at the base. In 
the meantime your border will have been 
made, and the best one for an amateur 
is that which is partly inside, and partly 
outside, the structure, then you can plant 
the Vines inside. 
Plant at the end of December and dur¬ 
ing January, this is the best time for 
amateurs to do the work. Carefully turn 
out the ball of sod-1, and with equal care 
disentangle the roots and spread them 
out evenly in all directions, covering them 
with 4 inches of loam, working a little- of 
the finer portion mixed with sand around 
the roots. Press down the soil firmly 
with’ the hands and then water the border 
with clear tepid water, afterwards allow¬ 
ing all to settle down naturally. But you 
will act wisely if you put on a top dressing 
of horse droppings 2 inches thick over 
that portion of the border occupied by 
the roots. 
Allow the young shoots to grow natur- 
allv, that is, without any forcing from 
fire heat. Of course frost must be ex¬ 
cluded from the house, and in the autumn 
a certain amount of fire heat may be 
necessary, coupled with plenty of ventila¬ 
tion, to ensure thorough maturation of 
wood. 
Training the Shoots of the Young 
VINE. —The strongest shoot near the end 
of the rod must be trained straight up 
the roof of the house, and one or two 
shoots trained horizontally at both sides 
of the rod (see Fig. 12). The side shoots 
may be stopped when they have grown 
3 feet, 6 inches in length, but the one on 
the roof should be allowed to grow un¬ 
checked throughout the summer. G. 
(To be continued). 
16. An unthinned hunch of Grapes. 
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1 7. A bunch duly thinned . 
/S 
18. A compact bunch as it should appei 
when the berries are ripe. 
