May 4, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
under glass pot up the bulbs in September 
or October, and stand them in. the open air 
till they show themselves above the soil. 
You can then bring them on more rapidly 
by placing them in a greenhouse. The scar¬ 
let flower was Ranunculus asiaticus flore 
pleno, that is, the florists’ Ranunculus. The 
tubers should be planted in a good rich soil, 
some time in February or the beginning of 
March, according to the condition of the soil 
and the state of the weather. 
1795. Rogues Amongst Carnations. 
A few weeks ago I had some seed given 
me, supposed to be Carnation seeds, but out 
of about 170 plants, I have only sixteen Car¬ 
nations, all the others being like the en¬ 
closed. Would you be good enough to tell 
me what the enclosed are before I destroy 
the same? (Trailus, Essex.) 
The seedlings you sent us were Sweet Wil¬ 
liams. The accident could easily happen to 
those who are only slightly acquainted with 
seeds. Most of the species of Dianthus have 
seeds that are closely similar, and yours was 
D. barbatus. 
1796. Plants Under a Holly Tree. 
I should be obliged if you would tell me 
what plants would grow in a rockery under 
a Holly tree, facing north, where little or 
no sun ever penetrates. Will you, if pos¬ 
sible, give the English name of the plants.? 
(R. S. T., Essex.) 
If the branches of the Holly are thickly 
arranged and come close to the ground, noth¬ 
ing whatever will grow under such a tree. 
In such cases the evergreen leaves of the 
Holly obstruct the light and throw off the 
rain. Even in a wild state the ground is 
bare under such trees. If the lowest 
branches are several feet from the ground, 
you can grow several things, but you would 
require to supply water artificially during 
dry weather. Under a moderate'amount of 
shade you can get such things to grow as 
London Pride, English Bluebells, Spanish 
Bluebell, Creeping Jenny, Periwinkle, and 
St. John’s Wort. If yx>u- would like shrubs 
you could plant the common Ivy, or tree Ivy, 
or Butcher’s Biroom. Ferns would grow, but 
they would require a deal of watering. 
1797. Pelargoniums and Geraniums. 
Will you oblige me with a simple and con- 
sise explanation of the difference between 
Pelargoniums and Geraniums? Also, kind¬ 
ly say which are best for out-door culture, 
and which for culture in the greenhouse. 
(P. Williams, Cornwall.) 
Any species or Varieties of Pelargoniums 
may be grown in the greenhouse, so that it is 
unnecessary to mention any suitable for such 
a purpose. For out-door culture you can get 
nothing better than Henry Jacoby (crimson), 
Paul Crampel (scarlet), Vesuvius (scarlet), 
Surprise (salmon),'Lady Bailey (deep pink), 
and Snowdrop (white). Now as to distinc¬ 
tions, Pelargoniums are not hardy, but re¬ 
quire greenhouse protection. The flowers in 
the wild plants are irregular, but the vari¬ 
eties we name above will not possess that 
character. There is a nectary, cr honey tube 
at the base of one of the sepals, and this nec¬ 
tary runs down the flower stalk in the form 
of a tube. On the other hand, Geraniums 
are hardy and have regular flowers, that is, 
all the petals are of the same shape and 
size. There is no tube on the flower stalk. 
ROSES. 
1798. Roses not Growing:. 
Some time since I bought .some small Rose 
trees, and planted them. I noticed at the 
time, that they had no fibrous roots, -and 
fancied something was wrong. When I took 
up a plant the other day to examine it after 
it had been planted two months, I still found 
that no small roots had been thrown out. 
Are the trees likely to do anything at all? 
(T. A. Hadley, Hants.) 
If the stems or shoots of the Rose are still 
green and plump there is still hope for them, 
but iif the stems are withered, discoloured or 
wrinkled, it is probable that they are dead. 
At the same time we should not dig them up 
any more, but wait patiently. If the stems 
are hopelessly shrivelled or discoloured, you 
can cut them down to the ground level. If 
they are still green, they may yet grow well. 
They are bound to be late in making a start, 
seeing that they were disturbed so recently. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
1799. Stopping: Chrysanthemums. 
I have the following Chrysanthemums in 
54 size pots, will you kindly advise me as to 
stopping, etc., to bloom in November? :—(1) 
Mrs. IT. Herbert; (2) Mary Inglls ; (3) Henry 
Perkins; (4) Belle of Weybridge; (5) Louisa 
Giles; (6) Miss N. Judson; (7) Mrs. Barkley; 
(8) Model of Perfection; (9) Miss E. A. 
Fuller; (10) Mr. Bateman; (11) Amber 
Beauty; (12) Mrs. G. Deynon; (13) F. S. 
Vallis; (14) Snowdrop; (15) Premier; (16) 
Mrs, S. J. Dunn; (17) F. -S. Smith; (18) 
Mrs. W. Brammel; (ig) Mr. Guy Paget; (20) 
Mrs. S. Bryce. (Novice, Essex.) 
Some of the names yiou send us were faulty, 
that is, incorrect. Please observe where we 
spell them differently in referring to the 
numbers. This .is of more importance than 
would at first sight seem, because it often 
happens that there are many varieties having 
the same surname and only differing in hav¬ 
ing different initials. Where the corrections 
have been made they immediately follow the 
numbers to which they refer. Nos. 2, 3, 7, 
13, 16 (Mrs. J. Dunn), and 19 (Mrs. Guy 
Paget), are all Japanese varieties, and if 
large blooms are required from them, will 
do best if left to break naturally, removing 
all buds that appear before the third week 
in July, and taking the first that appears 
after'that time. Nos. 1, 4 and 17 (F. W. 
Smith), are single flowering varieties, which 
will flower in November if pinched now. 
Nos. 5, 6 (Mrs. F. Judson), 11 and 20 (Mrs. 
J. B. Bryce) are incurved varieties, and 
should be pinched at once, restricting them 
to 7 in. or 8 in. pots at the final potting. 
No. 10 (James Poateman) flowers at the end 
of September. No. 14 is a late flowering 
pompon, and Nos. 8 , 9, 12, 15 and 18 are not 
known by the names given. 
VEGETABLES. 
1800. Tomatos on Wall. 
You suggested that Tomatos might be grown 
against the south aspect wall marked on the 
enclosed plan. How would the spot marked 
“Tomatos” do? It gets the sun nearly all 
day. Wihat should I do to give them a fair 
chance of doing well? (C. Day, Kent.) 
The place you have marked should answer 
the purpose admirably 'for Tomatos. Take 
out a hole about a foot deep, place a spade¬ 
ful of well decayed cow manure in this, and 
dig it into the soil. Then partly fill up the 
hole with soil, place your plant in position, 
covering the roots with soil and tread it 
firmly. Before commencing, take out all 
the holes you require at 15 in. to 18 in. apart 
along the wall. The planting should he 
done at the end of May or first week of 
June. After the plants commence to grow, 
stop all the side shoots, being careful not to 
break off any flower buds, nor to injure the 
growing point. The object is to restrict each 
plant to a single stem. After four or six 
bunches have been set, you should then pinch 
out the growing apex of the plant. All fur¬ 
ther growths that are made should be stop¬ 
ped, so as to concentrate the energy of the 
plants on the bunches of fruit set. Liquid 
manure may be given them after one bunch 
of fruit has been set. 
1801. Tomatos for Tubs Outside. 
Kindly let me know the best Tomato 
(medium size, thin skin and heavy cropper) 
-for growing in small tubs out of doors. 
Also time to plant. (J. Welch, Middlesex.) 
3 ” 
You can plant the Tomatos in tubs at any 
time if you have a greenhouse or frame to 
shelter them, but they should not be exposed 
to frosty nights till the last week of May or 
the first of June. Splendid varieties for out¬ 
door culture are Conference, Earliest of All 
and Ham Green Favourite, the first two hav¬ 
ing rather smaller fruits than the last-men¬ 
tioned. You should confine them to single 
stems. Read the previous article concerning 
Tomatos out of doors. 
1802. Fowl Manure for Tomatos. 
Kindly tell me whether fowl and pigeon 
manure would be of any benefit to Tomatos. 
If so, which would be the most beneficial to 
apply as a top dressing or as a liquid? 
(J. D., Derbyshire.) 
Either of the manures you mention would 
be suitable for Tomatos, but if they are quite 
pure, that is, unmdxed with straw and vari¬ 
ous other ingredients, they are very concen¬ 
trated, and should be used with caution. 
There is little to.choose between them if you 
get them clean and dry, that is, they should 
not have been exposed to washing by rain. 
In this form you can use a 60 size pctful to 
every bushel of potting soil. In the open 
ground use a handful or two as a top dres¬ 
sing, to be mixed with the upper spit of soil 
just around the plant'. Before using it for 
any purpose, you should break it up finely-, 
so that it may get properly mixed with the 
soil and not occur in lumps. After a bunch 
or two of fruit has been set, y-cu can then put 
a 6 in. potful in a barrel of water and steep 
it so as to be used in a liquid state after 
standing twelve hours. Your aim should be 
to give it weak rather than strong, depen¬ 
dent, of course, upon the quality of the 
manure to begin with. 
1803 Marrows or- Cucumbers. 
Which are the easiest to grow with cer¬ 
tainty of some measure of success in a sub¬ 
urban back garden, Marrows or ridge Cu¬ 
cumbers ? I propose growing one or the 
other in a large tub. (C. D., Surrey'.) 
We should recommend you to' grow some 
of the dwarf or cluster Marrows, as that is 
practically the only type that you can grow 
with any measure of success in tubs." We 
should recommend you to get the Vegetable 
Marrow Early White Bush or Cluster, which 
has very short stems. 
1804. Tomatos in Pots Outside. 
I have had a number of Tomato plants 
given to me, and should like to grow them 
in pots to stand along a back garden path. 
Will they succeed, do you think" in some in¬ 
different soil, if I feed them well when fruit¬ 
ing commences ? (J. Wallis, Middlesex.) 
The chief difficulty' with y'Our soil will be 
its lack of fibre and its liability to get into 
a pasty condition on account of the necessity 
of frequent watering. You will have, there¬ 
fore, to temper the soil in such a way that 
the water will drain ifreely away. You must 
get some well decayed cow manure, which 
will serve to keep the soil open and to retain 
moisture, as well as feed the plants. The 
drainage must be good, so that all super¬ 
fluous water will readily' pas? away. Use 
also a fair quantity of sand in the' soil to 
render it porous. Select the most sunny 
position to stand the pots. Feeding need not 
commence until one bunch of fruit has been 
set. 
GARDEN ENEMIES. 
1805> Wash for Rose Trees. 
Will you give me a recipe for the best and 
cheapest insect wash for Rose trees that I 
can make myself? (Leta, Surrey.) 
We presume that y-ou mean a wash to get 
rid of green fly on Roses. Of course, that 
would not destroy caterpillars, particularly 
those grubs which hide themselves inside the 
hud and which must be hunted for and 
picked out by hand. A wash to destrov 
green fly may be made up of a solution of 
soft soap 1 oz. to the gallon of water, and a 
