326 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
May ii, 1907. 
later on planted out 1 ft. apart and 18 in. 
between the lines. An old, but little used, 
substitute for Spinach is that known as 
Good King Henry (Chenopodium Bonus- 
Henricus). It is rather scarce or but sel¬ 
dom used at the present day, but you might 
obtain plants or seeds. It is a hardy per¬ 
ennial and may be planted out where it can 
be left undisturbed in winter. Seeds may 
be sown in lines 18 in. apart or a little less, 
and the plants thinned out if they come up 
too thickly. Spinach Beet is also a per¬ 
ennial and may be sown at once in the same 
way as recommended for Good King Henry. 
You may be able to get some leaves from it 
towards the end of the season, but the plants 
will be all the stronger next year if you 
do not punish them too severely by the re¬ 
moval of leaves this year. 
1824. Seakale that has been Forced. 
Will Seakale be of any further use that 
has been forced with fermenting manure ? 
The roots were first covered with boxes and 
the manure was then built up and around 
them. (G. Walker, Yorks.). 
Seakale being a perennial plant will live 
for many years even although gently' forced 
in spring by the method you mention. 
Owing to the cutting of the crowns several 
smaller ones will be produced, but in order 
to ensure good crowns for next season you 
should go over the plants carefully with a 
knife and remove all but three of the best 
crowns on these old plants. If you do this 
you may get a fairly satisfactory crop for 
many years to come, even although forced 
with fermenting manure in spring. A good 
plan would be, however, to renew the beds 
every year or every second year by lifting 
a portion of the old and making cuttings of 
the stout roots about 4 in. long and planting 
these in the form of a new plantation. You 
will thus get strong young roots and large 
crowns of leaves for next year’s work. 
1825. Treatment of Globe Artichoke. 
1 have raised some Globe Artichokes from 
seeds. At present they are in pots and have 
made a leaf or two. How should I treat 
them now? (G. Walker, Yorks.). 
The plants are now ready for pricking off 
into boxes about 3 in. apart each way. Any 
friable soil, such as old potting bench ma¬ 
terial, will answer the purpose, but if 
heavy, some leaf soil and sand might be 
added. About the beginning of June the 
young plants should have made some growth 
in these boxes and can then be planted out 
in their permanent positions in the garden. 
It depends upon the size you allow the 
plants to get to as to the distance apart 
they should be. We know that some gar¬ 
deners who are confined for space will plant 
them 2 ft. apart each way but they should 
have 3 ft. between them each way at least. 
They can then be allowed to attain a larger 
size and are just as profitable as small plants 
placed close together. 
FRUIT. 
1826. Vine in a Greenhouse. 
Could a small Vine be successfully grown 
with the other plants in the greenhouse ? 
(L. S., Lancs.). 
Many cultivators are obliged to utilise 
their greenhouses for a variety of purposes, 
and if you work carefully there is no rea¬ 
son why you should not get some bunches 
of Grapes from a Vine in your greenhouse. 
The great point is to get acquainted with 
the nature of the Vine and the method of 
pruning it, so as to prevent it from covering 
too much of the roof and shading the plants 
beneath it. If you shade the whole roof 
with Vine leaves you cannot expect flowering 
plants to give great satisfaction. If the 
house is a span-roofed structure the Vine 
might be planted at one end and a single 
rod trained along the whole house just under 
the ridge. The lateral shoots produced by 
this rod should bear the Grapes. At each 
winter pruning all of the shoots are pruned 
back to two good buds, leaving nothing but 
a single rod, so that it gives no shading in 
winter. One of the most easily grown va¬ 
rieties for a greenhouse is Biack Hamburgh. 
Another hardy Vine is Keine Olga with 
dusky red or tawny berries. A good white 
Grape is Foster’s Seedling. One Vine for 
the house is sufficient, and you can make a 
selection from the three given. 
GARDEN ENEMIES. 
1827. Insects and Maidenhair Ferns. 
Finding some Maidenhair Ferns were con¬ 
tinually nibbled up in a most mysterious 
manner I searched .among the crowns for 
the cause and found the enclosed insects. 
Will you kindly tell me what they are and 
whether you think it probable they were 
the cause of the damage? There was quite 
a laj'er of young tops under the plants ‘each 
morning. (C. J. T., Devonshire). 
We have no doubt that the damage was 
done by the insects you sent us, as they are 
a perfect pest in some gardens. The enemy 
is the Black Vine Weevil (Otiorhynchus sui- 
catus). This weevil does a deal of injury 
to a great variety of plants, eating the roots 
underground while they are still in the grub 
state, and when they attain the perfect state 
or weevil they destroy Ferns, Strawberries, 
Vines and other garden plants by eating the 
leaves and young shoots. You should make 
a raid upon them by first thoroughly clean¬ 
ing out all rubbish that would form shelter 
for them in the house. Cement all cracks 
and crevices in the wall or floor where they 
could get in and hide. Then, having re¬ 
duced their opportunities for hiding in the 
house, you should come in at night with a 
lantern and turn that upon the foliage of 
plants being eaten by them. Previous to 
this, however, say at closing time or when 
leaving off work, you should lay down a 
white cloth under the plants being eaten. 
When the light is turned on the creatures 
they fall down and feign to be dead. You 
should then gather them up (which the white 
cloth will enable you to do) and have them 
destroyed. You can also lay traps for them 
by getting some pieces of old board and lay¬ 
ing them in suitable places on the floor in 
such a way that they will be able to crawl 
in beneath the boards. Towards morning 
they will hide beneath these pieces of wood 
and you should examine them every morn¬ 
ing and destroy all of the weevils you can 
find. By this means you will be able to 
subdue the pest. Judging by the number 
you sent they are already far too numerous 
and would proceed to attack other plants if 
you do not check them. It is just possible 
thev may have been introduced in the potting 
soil, and if in the form of eggs you cannot 
always guard against them, but you should 
always keep an eye on potting soil when 
using it so as to destroy any liye weevils 
you may find in it. 
MISCELLANEOUS . 
1828. Judges and Judging. 
Would you be kind enough to let me know 
through your paper where I can get the 
book entitled, “Judges and Judging”? 
(Marechal Niel, Yorkshire). 
The book you mention is entitled, “Code 
of Rules for Judging and Suggestions to 
Schedule Makers, Judges and Exhibitors.” 
Tt is obtainable for is. 6d. post free from 
the Secretary, Royal Horticultural Society, 
Vincent Square, London, S.W. 
1829. Acetylene Gas Lime. 
Will you kindly advise me as to the best 
use I could make of the lime that comes 
from the gas house. Could I use it on the 
farm and garden, but the farm more especi¬ 
ally, as 1 think it requires great care in 
applying this lime, as it contains such an 
amount of soda? Y’our advice will be 
gratefully received. (D. W. D., Sutfier- 
landshire). 
Some of these recent introductions have 
not been much or widely tried in gardens. 
You should therefore use it carefully by 
way of experiment until you find out the 
best way of utilising it. We should recom¬ 
mend you to apply it in the autumn and 
early winter, or at least two months before 
sowing or planting anything-on the ground. 
If the land is heavy or contains much vege¬ 
table matter in it, it may be used on such 
soils in preference to sandy soils. When 
dealt with in this way the ordinary gas 
lime may be used either in the garden or on 
the farm at the rate of 2 to 5 tons per acre, 
but it must be put on two months before any. 
thing else is put in the ground as above 
stated. We should commence in the first 
instance by using not more than two tons 
per acre to ascertain what, if any, bene¬ 
ficial effect it has or otherwise. 
NAMES OF PLANTS. 
(W. D., Lancs.) 1, Starch Hyacinth, Grape 
Hyacinth (Muscari racemosum); 2, Wall 
Cress, Rock Cress (Arabis albida); 3, Gol¬ 
den-flowered Currant, Buffalo Currant 
(Ribes aureum).—(James Reid) 1, Prunus 
triloba flore pleno ; 2, Forsythia viridissima; 
3, Berberis Aquifolium; 4, Erica mediter- 
ranea.—(L. S. W.) 1, Caltha palustjris flore 
pleno; 2, Arabis albida flore pleno; 3, Cory- 
dalis cava; 4, Saxifraga crassifolia; 5, Bro- 
diaea uniflora ; 6, Primula rosea; 7, Ornitho- 
galum nutans.—(R. West) 1, Saxifraga mus- 
coides Rhei ; 2, Saxifraga Wallaceij 3, Vinca 
minor variegata; 4, Doronicum plantagi- 
neum excelsum; 5, Arabis albida variegata. 
—(Barberry) 1, Berberis vulgaris foliis pur- 
pureis; 2, Prunus cerasifera atropurpurea; 
3, Spiraea Thunbergii; 4, Diervilla Eva 
Rathke.—(W. S. M.) 1, Primula denticulata 
alba ; 2, Primula viscosa alba; 3, Primrose 
Double Sulphur; 4, Aubrietia deltoidea 
variegata; 5, Adonis vernalis; 6, Corydalis 
bulbosa.—'(Golfer) 1, Pyrus baccata; 2, Py- 
rus floribunda ; 3, Acer campestre or English 
Maple; 4, Doronicum plantagineum; 5, Mer- 
curialis perennis or Dog’s Mercury (a weed); 
6 , Dicentra formosa. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Mrs. M. A. Banger, F.R.H.S., South- 
wick, Brighton.—List of Plants offered for 
Sale. 
Amos Perry, Hardy Plant Farm, Enfield, 
Middlesex.—Perry’s Catalogue of Water 
Plants. 
Miss Alice M. Smith, F.R.H.S., The 
Bungalow, Barnham, Bognor, Sussex.— 
Hardy Perennial and Alpine Plants. 
- 
The City Beautiful. 
With a view to beautifying Liverpool, 
Mr. Meade-King has offered prizes of the 
value of ^5, £2, and £1 respectively for 
the most beautiful private house fronts, 
and the same for shop or business fronts. 
A German Exhibition. 
To celebrate the 300th anniversary of 
the civic freedom of the German city of 
Mannheim there will be held this year an 
international exhibition of art and of 
horticulture ancj floriculture. A portion 
of the grounds will be divided into plots, 
in which exhibitors will have a free hand 
to carry out their own ideas of ornamental 
and practical gardening. 
