33^ 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
May i8, 1907. 
Malmaison Carnations. 
The main batches will presently flower 
freely, and the careful cultivator must 
give a watchful eye to the expanding buds 
of this particular race. The petals, in 
most instances, are too numerous, to ex¬ 
pand properly without assistance, and fre¬ 
quently have' a very short calyx tube. 
Just as the petals are about to emerge 
from the calyx, a good plan is to tie a 
thin band of" raffia round the middle of 
the bud, or india-rubber bands may be 
had, which can be adjusted even more 
quickly. The temperature of the house 
need not be higher than 50 degs., and 
plenty of ventilation must be given on fine 
days. Side shoots that are too high up 
the stem for layering may be taken off 
and inserted as cuttings. The larger 
shoots will, of course, be layered later on, 
when the plants are out of flower- 
Marguerite Carnations. 
Those sown in February and intended 
for flowering in beds will require plenty ;of 
ventilation to stiffen the foliage and stems. 
Take off the sashes a week before plant¬ 
ing-out time if the rain is not too heavy. 
Bv the end of the month, if the weather 
is" at all settled, the plants may be put in 
the beds where they are to flower. The 
soil should, of course, have been well pre¬ 
pared in winter, and in a sunny situation. 
American Carnations. 
Where good batches of these are grown 
they will require a considerable amount of 
attention at present in the matter of re¬ 
potting. Many of them are more vigorous 
than the ordinary Tree Carnation, and re¬ 
quire rather larger pots for plants of the 
same age. They may be taken in se¬ 
quence according to their advancement, 
as is the case of Tree Carnations. Water 
carefully, and keep the plants fully ex¬ 
posed to light and air, to build up short- 
jointed and sturdy stems. 
' J. D. F. W. 
- *+4- 
Horticultural Societies’ 
Diary 
of Forthcoming Meetings. 
Abbreviations used. 
A.—Association 
Am.—Amateurs 
Ohy.—Chrysanthemum 
c.m.—Committee meeting 
Oott.—Cottage or Cottagers 
D.—District 
G.—Gardemne or eardener 
Thus :—The Templeton G. Am. and Cott. M.I.H.S. 
Gardeners. Amateurs’ and Cottagers’ Mutual Improve¬ 
ment Horticultural Society. 
H.—Horticultural 
M.I.—Mutual Improve¬ 
ment 
m.m.—Monthly meeting 
S.—Society 
w.m.—Weekly meeting 
NOTICE TO SECRETARIES. 
Will secretaries of horticultural societies 
kindly send us at their earliest convenience 
dates of shows and meetings to he held 
during iqoy ? 
MAY. 
20th.—Horsforth G.M.I.S. (w.m.): Shirley 
and D.G. and Am. A. (m.m.). 
21 st. — Chesterfield and D. Chy. S. (m.m.); 
Craw’ey and D.G.M.I. A. (visit to 
Buchan Hill): Ord and D.G. Am. 
and Cott. M.I.S. (m.m.). 
22nd.—Roval Botanic Society of London 
(monthly exhibition); Ancient Society 
of York Florists (show of cut flowers 
and plants). 
25th.—Leeds Paxton 'S. (w.m,). 
4+4 
t: I AM only an apprentice yet,” said a 
gardener with 50' years of experience. 
The Flower Garden. 
Sweet Peas and Flower Shows 
If anyone has a doubt as to the popularity 
of Sweet Peas they should take a little in¬ 
terest in the doings of the numerous gar¬ 
dening societies that abound all over the 
country. Kent, is probably richer in such 
societies than any other county, for no vil¬ 
lage or town of any pretensions is without 
its horticultural mutual improvement society. 
Within a six-mile radius of where I reside 
there are six societies, all of which do well, 
and hold annual shows. In 1902, when I 
first came to this neighbourhood, I staged a 
large exhibit of Sweet l’eas at one of these 
shows, and the flowers were the talk of the 
neighbourhood. The following year a class 
for cottagers was instituted, and the next 
season one for professionals was added. In 
1905 the classes had increased to four. By 
this time Sweet Peas were the leading fea¬ 
ture, and their drawing powers will easily 
he understood when I state that although 
this village society was well in its teens in 
1902, the gate money never exceeded £12, 
frequently a great deal less. In 1905 the 
gate money was £20, while the membership 
of the society was. one-third more than in 
1902. Last year the society was aided from 
outside quarters, and the Sweet Pea classes 
were increased to nine, six of them being 
open to a twenty-mile area. Altogether there 
were about 500 bunches shown, and the gate 
money jumped to over £^s. For a village 
show this is a big figure, especially when 
the entrance fee is only 6d., and 3d. for 
children. 
This success is directly traceable to the 
Sweet Peas, and it has fired all the other 
societies to run open Sweet Pea classes. One 
body has affiliated itself with the N.S.P.S., 
and so secured the silver medal. 
These facts tend to show that exhibitions 
do encourage people to take up horticulture, 
and also induce them to grow only the best. 
Amateurs, cottagers and professionals, who 
formerly were content with mixed seed, now 
grow named sorts, and were I a seedsman 
I am sure I should do very. well. 
Staking Young Sweet Peas. 
Having started this column with Sweet 
Peas, I might mention that all the plants 
now in position. should be supported with 
small sticks. I fully stake my plants as 
soon as they are set out, as the sticks are 
then out of the way and they give a little 
protection from boisterous winds. W here 
the soil is light and the plants are tall 
enough to allow it, a good mulch of manure 
will be of great benefit. 
Waterimg Sweet Peas. 
I am of firm opinion that constant artificial 
watering is not beneficial to Sweet Peas, and 
on no account should the plants be swamped 
with water whilst in the young stage. Many 
of Our leading growers never water at all. 
The'well-known specialist, Mr. Chas. Bread- 
more, makes a perfect. mountain of litter 
and manure around his clumps. 
Bedding Plants. 
Many people will have bedding stuff of 
planting size now, and to obviate starvation, 
etc., it will be wise to plant out, providing 
the plants have been thoroughly hardened 
off. As I have often stated, -I prefer to 
grow such things as Asters, Stocks, etc., 
coolly, consequently my stock of plants 1 ,- 
not nearly ready’. The end of the month wil 
be at hand before I shall be prepared fo 
planting. 
Hardy Annuals. 
Hard}’ annuals sown in March are comiru 
along finely now, and if too crowded thf 
seedlings should be thinned out before they 
become drawn. Choose a time when thf 
soil is moist. The thinnings of some kind, 
may’ be set out where desired. If the seec 
was sown in beds no time should he lost i: 
planting out where flowers are wanted. I 
is advisable to set out several seedlings to 
gether, thinning them out later. Whet 
transplanted singly, hardy annuals fre 
quently die off. 
tarnations. 
Carnations must have every attention now 
Stakes should be fixed in position, the stent- 
being looped up, not tightly tied,’ or the 
flower stems will be crooked and spoiled. 
The beds must be frequently hoed to keep 
down weeds. If plants go off suddenly i: 
is pretty safe to conclude that wireworm* 
are at work. Plants that are attacked a\ 
this pest are past recovery. Quite recently 
I was asked to view a big batch of plant; 
a number of which were looking sickly. Or 
taking up a plant I found it badly bored b; 
wireworm, and to save the bed I suggestet 
lifting all the plants and carefully examin 
ing the soil. Scores of wireworm were cap 
tured, and before the plants were put bad 
the ground was treated with Vaporite. Tb 
Carnations did not suffer greatly througl 
the disturbance, and none have since beei 
attacked. 
Lifting Bulbs. 
Bulbs that have finished flowering anc 
stand in ground that is wanted should be 
lifted carefully at once and set out else 
where, so as to ripen. Never cut away bull 
foliage, or the roots will suffer consider 
ably. 
Dividing Primroses. 
Now is a good time to divide Primrose; 
A rather shady’ position should be chosei 
for their reception, as they cannot put uj 
with drought after they have been disturbed 
Divided roots give better flowers than large 
clumps. 
Lilies of the Valley. 
Lilies of the Valley, if flowering is over 
should have a light mulching with rottei 
manure. 
Watering Shrubs. 
We have had a fair amount of rain of late! 
which has saved us the necessity of water 
ing newly planted shrubs. Evergreens, ur 
til well established, must have water, an 
where rain has not fallen of late water mu.- 
be supplied. Thorough soakings only, hot' 
ever. 
Lawns. 
Newly sown grass has grown very fas 
and it should be either cut with a scythe cj 
a machine that has had the knives adjuste. 
to prevent close cutting. Keep the roll' 
going on new grass whenever the soil 
soft. 
Roses. 
Roses are looking splendid and liqui 
manure may’ be supplied to establish^ 
bushes with advantage. Never give liqui 
manure to newly planted trees, howeve 
Thin out superfluous growths and” keep tl 
