May 18, 1907. 
Daffodil, with an apricot chalice. Leedsii 
White Lady has a pale lemon chalice, but 
the general aspect is white when fully 
developed. Una has a long yellow 
chalice and curiously drooping leaves, re¬ 
sembling N. poeticus. George Nicholson 
;has cream segments and a clear yellow 
(chalice. Lucifer is a lovely Daffodil 
'with an orange crown, and is now being 
used as a bedder. 
A number of choice Daffodils which 
icannot be classed under either of the 
'above must not be overlooked, as they arc 
of equal use in their respective ways for 
any purpose. Barrii represents a section 
with shorter crowns or cup than incom- 
parabilis. Barrii Blood Orange has an 
orange chalice. Barrii Vivid ha a bright 
orange-scarlet cup. Nelsoni Strongbow 
has broad white segments and a deep yel¬ 
low chalice. While going through the 
grounds, we noted several species that had 
been planted out late and are now just 
pushing into bloom. These included N. 
cyclamineus, N. triandrus, or Angel's 
Tears, and others planted in February. 
Short-Crowned Daffodils. 
Under this heading we may place N. 
poeticus and its varieties, together with 
rts hybrids, N. Burbidgei and N. Engel- 
heartii. Burbidgei Cherry Ripe is a 
starry flower, with a deep orange cup. 
Burbidgei Firebrand has a fiery orange 
cup, well suited for exhibition purposes 
and lovely for garden decoration. Bur¬ 
bidgei Harold Hodge has a wide-open 
yellow cup with a scarlet edge. Burbid¬ 
gei salmonetta has a soft salmon cup, and 
is very choice. All of the above have, of 
( course, white segments, as well, as the 
others we shall mention. 
Engelheartii is characterised by having 
a wide, open, saucer-like cup, or it may 
be almost as flat as a coin. The variety 
Royal Star has a nearly flat, rich orange 
crown. There are several others of this 
type in the collection. The varieties of 
N. poeticus are, of course, numerous, and 
many of the choicest are to be found here. 
The Bride has very broad, white segments 
and a yellow cup edged with crimson. It 
is a great advancement in the matter of 
size. Other choice varieties of N. poeti- 
. cus are Chaucer, Cassandra, Horace, and 
Almira. 
-f+4- 
From the “ Haverfordwest Telegraph ” : 
Wanted, a Vegetable Groom, who 
can neither read nor write. — Apply, Mr. 
John Worthington, Glyn-y-mel, Fish- 
j guard.—Evidently Mr. Worthington is an 
extremely strict vegetarian. — “ Daily 
I News.” 
Wargrave and District Gardeners’ Associa¬ 
tion. 
For the last meeting of the Association 
Mr. YV. C. Blaxill, of Messrs. Sutton and 
Sons, had promised a paper on “ Tea 
Roses and their Hybrids,” but was un¬ 
fortunately prevented’from attending. He 
therefore entrusted the reading of it to 
Mr. Deane. The cultivation of this class 
of Roses was ably dealt with, and the best 
kinds, including some of the latest ac¬ 
quisitions, were mentioned. A good dis¬ 
cussion followed, and the thanks of the 
members were accorded Mr. Blaxill and 
Mr. Dcar.c. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
339 
Address: The Editor, The Gardening 
World, 37 and 38, Shoe Lane, London, E.C. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may 
cover any branch of gardening. Questions 
should be as brief as -possible and written on 
one side of the paper only; a separate sheet 
of paper should be used for each question. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans. —Gardeners who would make 
the best use of this column are invited to 
prepare and forward to us a rough outline 
drawing or plan of their gardens, indicating 
the position of beds and lawns, the charac¬ 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden, orchard, etc. The 
north siae of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
plat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be marked. Particulars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
received they will be carefully piled, with the 
name and address of the sender, and will be 
consulted by the Editor whenever an enquiry 
is sent. 
'rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrs 
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. 
1830. Carnation Leaves with Spots. 
Being a reader of T he Gardening World 
for many years, 1 have recei\ed some good 
information. 1 should be very pleased if 
you would tell me what is the matter with 
the enclosed Carnation leaves; also, will you 
tell me what I had better do to them, as I 
have several thousands of them, and they 
are all going the same? (A. F., Notting¬ 
ham.) 
The leaves you sent us were affected with 
Bacteriosis, the result of a fungus named 
Bacterium D'anthi It makes its appear¬ 
ance usually in the winter time in the form 
ot small, colourless, or yellow spots on the 
leaves, and if they are numerous they may 
amalgamate and form larger spots. The 
disease is injurious to the foliage, but it 
also ‘indicates that they have been under un¬ 
favourable conditions, though favourable to 
the minute fungus. Aphides and thrips are 
often blamed for puncturing the leaves, thus 
making minute openings through which the 
spores of the fungus can enter. You should 
burn the worst of the leaves. Remedy is 
very difficult if the plants are as bad as the 
leaves you sent us. The best plan is to pre¬ 
vent it spreading by keeping the plants close 
to the glass in a well lighted house, giving 
plenty of air on all favourable occasions. 
This makes the leaves firm and the growth 
sturdy, making it difficult for the fungus 
to effect an entrance. You should also be 
very careful in the matter of feeding and 
watering during winter. . Your best plan 
now. after removing the worst of the leaves, 
would be to try the effect of nitrate of soda 
upon them, using a solution at the rate of 
} oz. of the nitrate to a gallon of water. 
Soot water might answer the same purpose. 
It should not be applied oftener than once 
a week, as it is very quick acting,, and if 
your Carnations still have any vigour of 
constitution in them they will grow out of 
the disease 'with the better light and atmos¬ 
phere. Of course, during the winter in this 
country the light is very feeble, the atmos¬ 
phere moist, and the difficulties are greater 
in the neighbourhood of large and smoky 
towns than elsewhere. Nevertheless, good 
growers succeed in overcoming many of these 
ailments by giving close attention to the- 
requirements ot the Carnations. 
■’' Select Carnations, Picotees and Pinks” 
deals with Fungoid Diseases and Insect 
Pests. The book is obtainable at this office 
in cardboard covers for 2s. qd. and in cloth 
as. rod., post free. 
1831. Training; Sweet Peas. 
My Sweet Peas are five plants each in 
9 in. pots. The greenhouse faces east and 
the Peas are at the front glass, but near the 
end facing south. You said last week that 
they would do satisfactorily in the house, 
but how should they be trained as far as 
the glass is concerned ? They are climbing 
up some string about 1 in. from the front 
glass and are nearing the top roof. When 
they reach the roof, how shall I train them, 
as it strikes me that the flowers will be 
likely to push right on to the glass of the 
roof and get spoiled ? Your advice will be 
valued. If possible, I would like to train 
them up the front and roof. (Dorice, Sur¬ 
rey.) 
Your treatment is right so far as it goes, 
except that the strings are too near the glass. 
You have made no allowance for the flower 
stems. If you could fix up a wire about 
g in', from the glass to which you could tie 
the strings it would afford room for the 
flower stems when they make their appear¬ 
ance. The same would apply to the roof, 
except that if the Peas are very strong 30U 
could have the strings fixed 12 in. from the 
glass. Even then you would require to tie 
down the stems occasionally, as they will 
make a strong attempt to reach the light. 
This sort of training is well known to gar- 
deners who grow Peaches under glass. It 
all depends upon the fixing of the trellis, 
wires or strings upon which the plants are 
to be trained. You can easily make the 
strings project the above distances from the 
glass by getting a piece of iron rod with an 
eye turned in it at one end and pointed at 
the other. This could be driven into the 
woodwork of the house and the transverse 
wires fixed into the eyelet. This can still 
be done. 
1832. Blue Hydrangeas. 
Will you kindly let me know what is the 
best and safest mixture that can be used to 
give Hydrangea plants a bluish colour? 
Please give quantities for mixture, and sav 
when and how the plants should get it. 
(Amateur, Scotland.) 
Various mixtures of soil, and soil from 
certain situations, have been recommended 
by different writers for the turning of Hy¬ 
drangeas blue, but there is a great deal of 
uncertainty about the matter, and Hydran¬ 
geas with blue flowers this year and in the 
same soil might simply be pink next year. 
Some recommend the use of soil with iron in 
it, obtained, it may be, from boggy situa¬ 
tions. Others, again, put a small lump of 
