May 18, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD , 
343 
WIN TER-FLOWERING 
Begonias. 
Rapid as was the rise in popularity of 
the tuberous-rooted Begonia, that of the 
winter-flowering section has been e\ en 
more rapid. Year by year the need of 
plants, to flower during the long, dull, 
dreary months of winter, and especially 
at Christmas time, has been growing 
steadily, till in consequence, florists and 
hybridists turned their attention and 
efforts to the Begonia. 
This species originated from a form 
known as “ Begonia Soeotrana” (which 
I believe was discovered by Professor 
Balfour about the year 1880). This was 
crossed with the tuberous Begonia, and 
as the result of various crosses by M. 
Lemoine, we have now the immensely 
popular and well known variety " Gloire 
cfe Lorraine,” which again has thrown 
some very fine sports. 
A number of Chrysanthemum societies 
now provide classes specially for these 
plants, and amateurs who visit the 
National Chrysanthemum Society’s ex¬ 
hibition in November at the Crystal 
Palace and see the fine display put up by 
some of our leading firms, will, I am 
sure, return home with a determination to 
grow a few of the handsome plants. 
For table decoration, no plant looks 
so charming as these in winter time, 
especially under artificial light. For the 
amateur who has a small greenhouse 
which is well heated by hot-water pipes 
they present little or no difficulty to grow. 
Propagation. 
This is best effected by cuttings taken 
from the base of the old plants, which 
have been started early in the year. No 
difficulty will be found in rooting these if 
placed in a very sandy soil, in a propaga¬ 
ting frame, or over a gentle hotbed. They 
may be dibbled into small pots, 3 or 4 in 
a pot or in shallow- boxes; they should be 
kept close until rooted. 
General Culture. 
When they are rooted and starting into 
growth they should be potted up in to 
small 60-size or thumb pots, using a com¬ 
post similar to that in which they have 
been propagated. After they are potted 
up keep close to the glass on shelves or 
an elevated stage, so as to keep the plants 
sturdy, as weaklv or drawn growth means 
utter failure. 
In the majority of cases it is advisable 
to pinch them once or twice during the 
season, so as to make them bushy; the 
tops again may be struck and will make 
verv nice small stuff. 
When well Tooted in the small pots they 
should be potted on into the flowering 
pots; a 32-size or 6-inch will be found 
quite large enough, as it is a great mis¬ 
take to overpot these plants. Compost 
Should consist of rwo-thirds 'good rich 
loam, one-third good leaf mould and w-ell 
rotted manure rubbed through a sieve, 
wfith a good sprinkling of clean silver 
sand, the whole to be thoroughly well 
mixed. They should be potted mode¬ 
rately firm, but not too hard. A tem- 
Thelr Culture 
for Exhibition 
by Amateurs. 
perature of 60 degrees will suit them very 
well during the growing season, though 
a few degrees warmer will not do them 
any harm. They should be shaded from 
very strong sunshine, as the young ten¬ 
der foliage is very liable to scorch. A 
moist atmosphere should be maintained, 
but a comparatively dry atmosphere dur¬ 
ing the flowering period will help the 
flowers to retain their freshness longer. 
If a stake about 1 ft. or 18 inches high be 
placed in the centre of each pot and the 
growths neatly looped up with fine bast 
or tying material, nice pyramid shaped 
plants will be the result, covered with 
flowers from the rim of the pot to the tip 
of the stake. When growing freely and 
showing buds a weak application of 
Clay’s or other fertiliser will help them 
wonderfully. Thrips and green fly are 
sometimes troublesome, but these can be 
kept in check by vaporising. 
Plenty of light, unchecked growth, and 
liberal feeding by means of liquid manure 
water at the proper time are the three 
chief points in cultivating the winter- 
flowering Begonia successfully. 
After Treatment. 
This section produces annual stems, 
and not a tuberous root in the ordinary- 
sense of the word, but has a rootstock 
which takes the form of a cluster of fleshy 
buds. This being the case, none of the 
varieties will stand drying off, as with the 
tuberous rooted section, but they may Be 
rested by having the water supply re¬ 
duced, so as these buds are kept plump ; 
they also resent being rested in a cool 
house. 
Varieties. 
A few varieties in general cultivation 
are: Gloire de Lorraine, rose; Cale¬ 
donia, white ; Turnford Hall, white, 
sometimes blush ; Mrs. Leopold de Roths¬ 
child, pink; Carrieri, white; Moonlight, 
a new white. There are, I . believe, 
others of more recent introduction, but 
the above are well known varieties which 
flower from October to March. 
A. E. Cresswell. 
-*+>- 
Edible Ferns. 
Prominent amongst the grand display 
of Ferns at the Exhibition of the Royal 
Botanic Society of London on April 24th 
were specimens of the pithy' Cyathea 
(C. medullaris), a noble species from the 
Pacific Isles, of a comparatively hardy 
character. This greenhouse evergreen 
tree Fern forms in its native country' a 
common article of food with the natives. 
The roots and the lower parts of the 
stems are soft and pulpy, have a pleasant 
smell and taste, so that the medulla of 
this fern, which abounds in a reddish 
glutinous juice, is nearlv as good as sago. 
The silver tree fern '(C. dealbatab a 
beautiful species from New Zealand, is 
said to be eaten in the same way. This 
species has a trunk fully' 15 feet in height, 
and is forked at about five feet from the 
apex, a most unusual occurrence in tree 
ferns, as the trunks are usually un 
branched. The trunk appears wrapped 
in the foliage of a pretty little film fern 
(Hymenophvllum venosum). which has 
evidently' made this species its host. 
A’sophlia excelsa and A. australis, are two 
magnificent umbrageous trees belonging 
to an allied genus. The middle of these 
trees, from the root to the apex, consists 
of a white substance resembling a yam, 
and which tastes like turnips. The out¬ 
side of the trunk is very- hard. 
CINERARIAS 
And their Culture. 
The soil for sowing the seed should be 
made up of a portion of leaf mould, with 
manure from a spent mushroom bed. 
Place plenty of broken crocks in the pan 
for drainage, with coarse siftings or moss 
over these. Make the compost firm with 
an even surface, on which to sow the seed. 
Previously to sowing, the soil in the pan 
should be thoroughly watered, as this pre¬ 
vents the seed from being washed to one 
side when watering is done after sowing, 
for the seeds, being so small, are soon 
disturbed, and only a slight dewing over 
after sowing is required. Very lightly- 
covering the seed with fine soil will be all 
that is necessary. After solving, cover the 
pan with a sheet of glass or thick brown 
paper, as this retains moisture and pre¬ 
vents the surface soil from drying. V ery 
little water will be required till the seeds 
have germinated. Place the seed pan in 
a warm greenhouse or frame, and if a 
little bottom heat can be given, so much 
the better. When the seeds are well 
above the soil, prick off into other pans, 
containing a little coarser compost, filling 
the pans within half-inch of the top, to 
allow of watering. Much the same tem¬ 
perature is required for a shokt time 
longer, keeping them close to the glass to 
prevent drawing or damping off. 
When large enough, pot them off into 
6o’s or 3-inch pots, but it depends upon 
whether one wants large plants. By 7 sow¬ 
ing in April there is no difficulty in get¬ 
ting large plants by flowering time. For 
ordinary conservatory requirements, 6-inch 
pots will be large enough, so that 6o’s will 
be large enough for first potting. 
When potted, keep the plants close in a 
warm frame. A dry atmosphere will en¬ 
courage red spider and green fly. In deal¬ 
ing with these pests,'fumigate lightly in 
preference to using a strong dose, which 
will disfigure the foliage. If the plants 
are grown in a moist atmosphere, y 7 ou 
should have little fly. Place the pots on 
a hard coal ash bottom, this being just 
what is wanted on hot days. Then throw 
water on the ashes to induce a sturdy' 
growth. 
Shift the plants into flowering pots when 
the small pots are full of roots, using good 
soil, noth a large proportion of manure. 
Pot firmly and shade for a short time 
afterwards. When the pots are full of 
roots, give twice a week liquid manure or 
a fertiliser, and grow as long as possible in 
a frame. Frame treatment is most suit¬ 
able, as if grown in a greenhouse there is 
more trouble from insects. During hot 
weather remove the lights at night, as they 
delight in the cool dews, and shade them 
in the daytime. P- Gin 7 . 
