352 
THE GARDENING WORLD, 
May 25, 1907. 
The Flower Garden 
A Feast of Tulips. 
At the moment of writing I am revelling 
in Tulips. I have more than once referred 
to the magnificent varieties that bloom in 
May. Despite the shift, our bulbs are 
blooming very well indeed, but the flowers 
I am specially speaking of are now reposing 
in a large bowl upon my table. It is my cus¬ 
tom to make a pilgrimage twice a year to see 
the Tulips and Gladioli grown by Mr. W. 
C. Bull, the well-known Ramsgate specialist, 
and if anyone had a doubt as to whether 
English-, grown bulbs were superior to 
Dutch, then the specimens of bloom I have 
by me would convince them. The above- 
named gentleman is best known as a raiser 
of Gladioli, his yellows being superb, but of 
late years he has taken up Tulips and Daffo¬ 
dils. Iif he is as successful in raising new 
varieties of these as he has been with 
Gladioli, we may expect something extra 
good in years to come. As a Tulip grower 
pure and simple, he' is an expert, and the 
blooms now before me are truly superb, es¬ 
pecially the doubles, which are almost as 
large as Paeonies. Safrano, Queen of the 
Netherlands, Princess Beatrice, Rose d’A- 
motir, Grand Vanqueur, Queen Emma, Rose 
Blanche, Le Matador, La Grandiose, and 
Arabella are superb, while apart from Dar¬ 
wins, such single sorts as Retroflexa, Ele- 
gans alba. White Hawk, Queen of Whites, 
Couleur de Cardinal, La Reve, Fosteriana, 
and Ostrowskiana, really make one Tulip 
wild. To see these varieties blooming in big 
hatches is worth a long journey. Readers 
should make a point of getting a batch of 
these varieties next autumn. The soil at 
St. Lawrence appears to suit all sorts of 
bulbs, for I never saw more beautiful Daffo¬ 
dils, J. B. M. Camm and Grandis being 
magnificent. The old Emperor I saw 4^ 
inches across the perianth a short time back. 
Roses and Maggots. 
Leaving the Tulips, I feel that I must 
grumble about our May weather. The 
samples we have had at times have been 
enough to make one a profound pessimist. 
Roses which started strongly, although later 
than usual, are not pleasing me at all. The 
bitter winds have damaged the ifoliage, and 
the maggot is even- more plentiful than 
usual. I found the first specimen, quite a 
tiny one, on the 7th inst., and have been 
slaughtering them ever since. Using the 
finger and thumb is the only sure remedv 
for maggot, and the bushes must be fre¬ 
quently searched, for the pests grow raoidlv, 
and a big maggot is a great eater. Pinch 
every leaf that is rolled. Superfluous 
shoots below the buds should be rubbed out 
early, leaving only two or three at the base. 
Long stems are then available for cutting, 
and the growths that follow are much 
stronger. 
Sweet Peas. 
Knowing my love of Sweet Peas, a friend 
has been sending me small batches of 
blooms, grown under glass. How sweet they 
are, although size is verv much lacking in 
some instances. Several new seedlings show 
great promise, and I look forward to seeing 
them in true form later on. The poor 
weather we have had has not encouraged the 
growth of Sweet Peas, but I am thankful 
that my plants- are not so bad as those of a 
Lancashire friend. Frost and wind did 
much damage early in the month. I am try¬ 
ing phosphate of ammonia on some of my 
plants, at the suggestion of a big grower. 
It is a very powerful manure, and as much 
as will cover a shilling is sufficient for two 
gallons of water. The plants appreciate 
this solution sprawed over them, as well as 
at the roots. 
Dahlias. 
Dahlias should be in position now. It is 
a good plan to set out the stakes when plant¬ 
ing. The plants- should bq tied early to 
prevent any possibility of their falling over. 
Many border plants are in need of stakes 
now, and owing to the wind I have found 
it necessary to tie u-p Delphiniums, etc., 
rather early. In sheltered situations Pyre- 
thrums may not require stakes-, but in wind 
swept gardens the flowers will very soon be 
spoilt if not supported. 
Half-Hardy Annuals. 
The planting out of half-hardy annuals is 
pretty well safe in all parts now, providing 
they are of -sufficient size. Never plant 
Stocks where wireworm abounds. 
Wi reworm. 
Indeed it is hazardous to plant anything 
where -this pest is present. I have known it 
to injure Roses, while a friend complains 
that he has lost many Sweet Peas through 
wireworm. Carnations are its special tit-bit, 
but Gladioli are by no means despised. At 
present I am dealing with some ground 
that is alive with wireworm. Meadow land 
is usually full of it, which prompts me to 
warn glass house men to search all turf loam 
before using it. The cock chafer grub and 
the leather jacket grub, too, are generally in 
such soil, -and they will make short work of 
a small seedling. However, these latter 
pests onlv bite the tops off vo-ung plants, 
whereas the wireworm bores into anything, 
and nothing can save a plant afteT the worm 
has worked into the stem. 
Bulbs and Seed Pods. 
Bulbs that have finished flowering should 
be relieved of seed pods. Some growers do 
not consider seeding likely to weaken the 
bulbs, but I do, and apart from this, seed 
pods of Tulips, Daffodils, etc., are none too 
attractive. Of course if one has been trying 
their hand at cross fertilising naturally pods 
will be allowed to remain, but as Daffodils 
take six years or more -to reach blooming 
size I do not suppose there are many who 
have so experimented. 
Arabis, Aubrietia, etc. 
Such spring bloomers as Arabis, Aubrietia. 
Primroses, and Polyanthus, should be lifted 
and divided if additional stock be required. 
The two first-named, however, always make 
the best show when -growing in large clumps. 
If Arabis flore pleno is not included in the 
garden stock, get it bv hook or by crook, for 
it is the loveliest spring plant imaginable, 
and a long way ahead of the single form. It 
divides or roots from cuttings just as easily 
as the single ones. Aubrietias are more liable 
to die off after dividing. I find it best to 
cut back closelv after flowering, and divide 
when new -growth is pushing. 
The Fruit Garden. 
Should the garden of anv reader be suf¬ 
fering from drought it will be. imperative 
that recently planted trees be watered. 
Otherwise weak growth, red spider, and pro. 
bably death will follow. 
Red Spider. 
Red spider is becoming a more and more 
dangerous pest, for it is making itself com¬ 
fortable on all sorts- of trees. Carefully ex¬ 
amine fruit tree foliage, and if it shew a 
peculiar spottiness, and look unhealthy, wet 
syringe at frequent intervals. 
Hoeing and Weeds. 
It is hardly necessary for me to emphasis 
the importance of hoeing among all fruit 
trees and bushes. Weeds are very persistent. 
My new plot is chock full of the Fumitory- 
weed, yet the ground was previously turfed". 
The adjoining meadow shows no such weed 
among the grass, therefore it is quite patent 
that the seed was in the soil, and not on the 
surface either, for the turf was turned to the 
bottom when digging was in process. I 
dare say it is 20 years o,r more since the 
land was cultivated, but nevertheless, the 
Fumitory is there, and 1 can only suppose 
it to be a legacy left by some slothful farmer 
in years gone -by. 
Gooseberries. 
Gooseberries in some places are bearing 
heavily, and i«f good fruit is wanted for 
ripening it will be well to thin out, using 
the thinnings for pies. 
Cherries. 
Morello Cherries must now be attended to. 
New growths are pushing fast, and wher¬ 
ever possible these should be fastened in so 
as to make fruiting wood for next season. 
Other wall trees will be needing similar 
attention. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Tomatos. 
Tomatos that are strong and well hardened 
should now be planted out, if a sheltered 
position be available. It is, however, hardlv 
yet safe to plant out in the open. 
Vegetable Marrows. 
Marrow plants raised under glass may go 
out, but shelter must be given at night for a 
week or so. It is- by no means too late to 
sow seed of Majrow-s and ridge Cucumber? 
outside. A hand light or even a piece of 
glass laid on the soil will encourage quick 
germination. Manure heaps are not at all 
essential for marrow culture. Just prepare a 
station by working in some good manure. 
Thinning and Pricking Out. 
Thinning among crops is very necessary 
just now. Onions, etc., are generally sown 
much thicker than required, but it is time 
they were thinned out, if good stuff is re¬ 
quired. This work is best done by hand, and 
after rain, as it is practically impossible to 
thin out when the soil is hard and dry. 
Various green vegetables in the seed bed 
need the same attention, but it is better to 
prick out the plants required. Never dis¬ 
pose of surplus plants until those planted out 
are growing strongly in their stations. 
Frame-raised Cauliflowers need planting, 
and the various batches of Celery should be 
attended to. 
“ Horti.” 
Orchids for Amateurs. 
Laelias. 
There are several species and natural hy 
brids among the Mexican section of Laeliat 
that are worthy of every consideration by 
amateur Orchid growers, and such kinds a- 
L. albida, L. anceps in its remarkable vari 
ations, L. autumnalis, L. majalis and L 
rubescens, are all fairly plentiful and cai 
be procured for a modest outlay. They may 
be treated under the same conditions as thosi 
recommended for Cattlevas, but will grov 
under much cooler and dryer condition? 
