June i, 1907. 
THE a ARDEN I NO WORLD , 
373 
of Rose leaves. There is no insecticide you 
can apply that would kill these grubs with¬ 
out doing more harm to the leaves of the 
Roses than the grubs themselves. The best 
plan is hand-picking. You should go over 
the Roses carefully, and wherever you find 
some leaves tied together get hold of the 
cluster in the left hand and commence un¬ 
rolling the leaves with the fingers till you 
find the grub. While doing so be careful 
that it does not tumble out and escape while 
you are shaking the bushes. Several other 
of the sawfties either hide on the under sur¬ 
face of the leaves, making holes in them, or 
they lie upon the edges of the leaves and 
eat"them. One of the most conspicuous of 
this latter class is the Rose Sawfly (Hylo- 
toma Rosae). An illustration of this will 
show you the appearance presented by this 
class of Rose grub. Here again hand-pick¬ 
ing is the best remedy, but as the grubs 
get to a large size in a few days they are 
very conspicuous, and could scarcely expect 
to escape if you look over the bushes care¬ 
fully. As a rule, this latter class is not 
very numerous, but one is capable of eating 
a number of leaves, and should be destroyed 
without delay. You will thus see that all 
kinds of caterpillars and grubs can best be 
destroyed bv going over the bushes. Those 
that lie on the surface may also be destroyed 
by syringing .the bushes with London 
Purple, but unless this is carefully done it 
is liable to scorch the leaves, and just while 
the Roses are pushing up for blossom this 
would be very undesirable. 
VEGETABLES. 
1886. Nitrate of Soda for Cucumbers. 
Do you think a little nitrate of soda put 
in the water a good thing to help on Cucum¬ 
bers in frames? (Amateur, Soms.) 
After the Cucumbers have made stems 
some feet in length a little nitrate of soda 
would be advantageous, say at the rate of 
i oz. to the gallon of water once in eight 
or ten days. This small proportion is quite 
sufficient, as it would be an easy matter to 
overdo it. If the plants are inclined to grow 
too rampantly you should then leave off 
watering with nitrate of soda until they get 
checked bv bearing, when a little of it 
would again give them a fresh start. 
GARDEN ENEMIES. 
1887. Protecting Plants from Slugs. 
Procure from,any ironmonger for a few 
pence a piece of zinc, which cut into strips 
a few inches long and about 2m. deep. In¬ 
sert the young plants and bend the zinc 
around it in the form of a collar. It will 
be found that a plant thus treated will be 
quite .safe from slugs. I have adopted this 
plan in the case of Dahlias, and have found 
it much more effectual than soot or ashes. 
(C. Murray.) 
SOILS AND MANURES. 
1888. Chemical Manures for Railway 
Garden. 
I should 'be much obliged if you would 
inform me how to grow Roses in a cold 
house, and in the open Sweet Peas, Celery, 
Cauliflower, Peas and Dwarf or Kidney 
Beans with chemicals. Our garden is 
situated between two railways, and so we 
cannot get manure to it. (Stanley Burton, 
Ashton-undeir-Lyne. ) 
A good plan would be to get some of the 
general manures advertised in The Garden¬ 
ing World. If your soil is heavy these will 
prove serviceable. If the soil is light some 
decaying vegetable matter as cow manure, 
stable manure, and pig manure would 
be necessary to procure good crops. We 
presume you have to get across the lines 
somehow, and you could carry various kinds 
of manure in a bag. If you think it 
impossible to carry anything like a suffi¬ 
ciency of farmyard manure, you should 
have a rubbish heap where you can lay up 
all weeds, leaves of Cabbages, Cauliflowers, 
etc., until it rots. This spread on the ground 
when digging it would help to retain the 
soil moisture and enable the plants to make 
good growth. Do not bury Cabbage stems 
or Cabbage Toots, which would be liable to 
place fungus spores in the soil, and also en¬ 
courage vermin in great variety. All such 
should be burned in a heap and the ashes 
spread on the ground at the time of digging. 
If you wish to make up chemical manures 
yourself you should get so much nitrate of 
soda, superphosphate of lime and kainit. 
The two latter might be mixed together and 
spread over the ground at the rate of 2 lbs. 
to 3 lbs. per rod or perch. It would be much 
better to keep the nitrate of soda till the 
plants commence growing. You could then 
use this at the rate of i| lbs. to the rod, giv¬ 
ing a dressing as soon as the plants com¬ 
mence growing, and another one about a fort¬ 
night later. The nitrate of soda is very 
soluble and would soon get washed awav if 
dug into the soil during winter, when there 
are no plants in the ground to take advan¬ 
tage. of it. We have thus given you a 
choice of manures, and we may add still an¬ 
other. When you empty any portion of 
ground of Potatos, early Cabbages, Peas or 
Cauliflower you cculd sow the ground with 
Mustard or Turnip seed. Allow the plants 
to attain a height of 3m. to sin., and then 
dig it into the soil in the green state. This 
is what is termed green manure, and is a 
good substitute for farmyard manure. See 
No. 1872. 
MISCELLANEOUS . 
1889. Address of Florist. 
Will you please give me the address of a 
“ Campbell,” a Pansy specialist, which I 
believe is in Scotland, but do not know what 
county. (A Constant Reader.) 
There are two firms that would answer 
your description, although we are not cer¬ 
tain either of them could be reckoned Pansy 
specialists, as they are florists growing a 
great variety of florists’ flowers. They are 
Messrs. M. Campbell and Son, High Blan- 
tyre, Lanark, and Mr. A. E. Campbell, Cove 
Gardens, Gourock, Renfrewshire. 
NAMES OF PLANTS. 
(L. H. Somerset) 1, Tulipa platystigma; 
2, the other we do not recognise.— (G. Felton) 
i, Narcissus poeticus recurvus (Pheasants 
Eye); 2, Iberis sempervirens; 3, Phlox subu- 
lata; 4, Phlox amo-ena-; 5, Saxifraga caes- 
pitosa; 6, Anemone fulgens fiore pleno.— 
(Wm. Davids) 1, Cydonia japonica; 2, Ber- 
beris vulgaris foliis purpureis; 3, Allium 
Ursinum; 4, Anemone coronaria, double 
variety; 5, Arabis albida flore pleno.—(J. S. 
Headley) 1, Daphne Cneorum; 2, Anemone 
sylvestris ; 3, Alyssum maritimum ; 4, Sedum 
sarmentosum carneum; 5, Sedum acre; 6, 
Ajuga reptans rubra.-—(South Cave) 1, Or- 
nithogalum nutans; 2, Pulmonaria officina¬ 
lis; 3, Anemone alpina.—(T. W. B.) Nepeta 
Glechoma variegata; 2, Saxifraga Sib- 
thorpii; 3, Arabis lucida variegata ; 4, Leu- 
cojum aestivum.-—-(F. S. A.) 1, Cytisus prae- 
cox; 2, Cvtisus purpureus ; 3, Laburnum vul- 
gare; 4, Kerria japonica flore pleno; 5, Ber- 
beris stenophylla ; 6, Berberis Aquifolium.— 
(Grateful Reader) 1, The Judas Tree (Cercis 
Siliquastrum); 2, Cornus alba sibirica; 3, 
Leycesteria formosa. 
I-- 
The Lawn Mower. 
The management of the mowing 
machine should be in the hands of one 
man. He then gets used to the parts and 
can adjust to a nicety anything required. 
Before commencing work the running 
parts .should be oiled, and when cutting is 
finished dirt and grass should be brushed 
off. An oily rag rubbed over the knives 
and plate will keep it from getting rusty. 
Setting the knives to the plate must be 
done carefully, as the smallest movement 
of a screw will cause it to go heavy with 
unnecessary wear, .and the least lifting 
from plate will not cut the grass. Place a 
piece of notepaper between plate and 
knives, when if it cuts this evenly from 
end to end without rattling it will make 
good work. Everv second year a machine 
should be sent to the maker to be ad¬ 
justed. G. Waller. 
Trials of Plant Inventing. 
Luther Burbank is stated in one experi¬ 
ment to have produced .5,000 various 
crosses of the Dewberry. Only two bore 
fruit, and when those fruits matured it was 
found that neither of them possessed any 
seeds at all. The whole 5,000 seedlings 
were nt once remorselessly dug up and 
burned. 
Rose sawfly (Hylotoma Rosae). 
