385 
June 8, 1907. 
JHE GARDENING WORLD. 
'Watering with weak sulphate of iron solu¬ 
tion or |>ermanga;iate of potash, sometimes 
•helps, as does lime in the soil. 
Keep the hoe going in this department, and 
:<dve water to recently planted stuff. 
The Fruit Garden. 
The work here demands but little expendi¬ 
ture of ink from my pen. 
briefly, wall trees need a little regulating 
in their growths. 
Insect Pests. 
Insects of all kinds are just as numerous 
as usual, and they must be kept down. 
Swift’s paste will deal with caterpillars, 
and Abol, or some other such insecticide will 
cope with the fly. 
Raspberries. 
Raspberry suckers should be constantly 
cut away. 
Currants. 
Currants need pinching, or the growths 
will become very dense. 
Strawberries. 
Ripe Strawberries of course may be picked 
if available. Birds will be found willing 
helpers in this direction. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Tomatos. 
Tomatos raised for outdoor planting will 
probably be fit for shifting into their sta¬ 
tions. Do not, however, plant out small 
stuff; nine to twelve inch plants should be 
the average. In dry weather water must be 
giveru in plenty to these plants. 
Brussels Sprouts. 
Early Peas and Potatos when cleared 
should be followed by winter greens, such 
as Brussels Sprouts and Broccoli. Make the 
ground very firm, as it is utterly useless to 
plant on loose soil, which causes sappy 
growth. 
Celery. 
Celery trenches are not infrequently made 
after early Potatos are off, and this work 
should be done without any undue delay. 
Late batches of Celery should bp pricked 
out, either into boxes or on rich beds which 
can be shaded for a few days. 
Spinach. 
Early Spinach with me is a failure this 
season, as it seems to have attracted all 
the wireworm in the district. This crop 
should be well thinned if good large leaves 
are wanted. 
Asparagus. 
A light dressing of nitrate of soda will 
be of benefit - to Asparagus beds now that 
cutting is finished. 
The hoe must be constantly at work among 
all root crops. See that thinning is done 
before the plants become drawn. 
Potatos. 
Potatos are growing fast, and they will 
need earthing or the rhizomes will be get¬ 
ting outside.. 
Peas. 
Nitrate of soda has a sweetening effect on 
Peas, although it does not increase the crop. 
A light' dressing will therefore do some 
good. 
Beans. 
Keep a wary eye on Broad Beans, so that 
the fly does not gain a footing. Where 
Elder trees abound I ^find black fly more 
prevalent. French and Runner Beans 
should have plenty of room. The former 
can easily do with a.clear six inches. 
Saladings. 
Constant sowings of Lettuce and Radish, 
to say nothing of. Mustard and Cress, are 
necessary. Little and Often is the motto to 
work upon. . . “ “ Horti.” 
The Amateur’s Greenhouse. 
Azaleas and Ericas. 
Tf these have been duly syringed, and 
kept warm since flowering, they should now 
have finiished making their new growth. 
Where this is the case the plants should be 
gradually hardened off for exposure out of 
doors. If a deep pit or cold frame that has 
held bedding plants is available, this will 
prove an excel.lent receptacle'for the Azaleas 
and Heaths or Ericas. Stand the pots on 
a bed of ashes Sb that their tops just clear 
the glass when the lights are on, and keep 
a mat on the glass during bright sunshine. 
Syringing should be practised about 9 a.m. 
and again at 4 p.m., and it will be well to 
close the lights after the flatter syringing 
for a day or two. Give air in ever increas¬ 
ing quantities until the lights can be re¬ 
moved, and the plants plunged in ashes in 
a sheltered and sunny position outdoors. 
Wintcr-flowering Geraniums. 
The earliest struck batches of these will 
now be established in 5in. pots, and may be 
stood out of doors at any time. The plants 
should have a place in the full sun, as any¬ 
thing like shade will mean gross, sappy 
growth, which will succumb to winter cold 
and fogs. Later batches new in 3^:1. pots 
should have their final shift; the best plants 
may go into bin. pots, the others into 4iin. 
or sin. ones. Good yellow, fibrous lcafn 
should form the bulk of the compost, and 
should be used rather on the dry side and 
made firm. Loose potting cf Geraniums is 
an evil strictly to be guarded against; 
neither should manure of any' sort be added 
to the compost. The plants should have 
cold frame treatment for a fortnight or three 
THE WILD 
. . Hyacinth. . . 
(Camassia Fraseri. 
The Wild Hyacinth of North America 
is different from the Wild Hyacinth of our 
woods, but although not of the same 
genus, it belongs to a very closely allied 
one. The root-stock is a bulb, and suc¬ 
ceeds under the same treatment as our 
native Wild Hyacinth or.-any other species 
of Squill. All that is necessary is to select 
a friable, well drained soil, having a good 
proportion of sand, in it. In this the bulbs 
thrive and multiply, and make gay the 
flower borders every year in April after 
they have been forgotten for well nigh a 
twelvemonth. Some time after finishing 
flowering the leaves of course die down, 
and the plant remains practically forgot¬ 
ten until it pushes up in spring. 
Several species of Camassia are culti¬ 
vated in British gardens, but none of them 
present exactly the same shade of colour 
as C. Fraseri. The flowers are a mi'xture 
of very pale blue and white, and might 
be compared to porcelain. When in their 
prime a spike of these flowers is very 
handsome indeed. This year they have 
flowered as usual, in spite of the unusually 
cold winds that prevailed throughout May. 
and Sons. 
Wild Hyacinth (Camassia Fraseri). [Maclaren 
