3 88 i 
crease of aphides or scale by carrying them 
about and encouraging their increase on 
plants. 'If they get very numerous you 
could scatter .carbolic acid about their runs 
or dig out and destroy some of the nests 
where it is possible without digging up the 
plants. Without seeing specimens we 
should say your Roses are suffering from 
the cutting winds and frosty nights which 
have prevailed ever since they commenced 
to grow. Rose leaves are very tender in 
spring, but beyond that there is nothing to 
be alarmed about. If you have any choice 
varieties you would like to save for exhibi¬ 
tion, your best plan would be to shelter them 
by means of evergreen branches fixed so as 
to hang over the young developing shoots 
to prevent late frosts from browning the 
leaves. 
1895. Rose Leaves Drooping:. 
I have seven bush or dwarf Roses and a 
climbing Gloire de Dijon, the foliage of 
which turns brown, shrivels up and drops 
off, although the trees are full of buds. The 
trees face south-west, and are sheltered by 
the house and a wall from the north-east 
winds. I have syringed with Gishurst com¬ 
pound and used Clay’s fertiliser, also kept 
the top earth loose, but they do not improve. 
They are shooting fast, but as soon as the 
young leaves get a fair size they turn the 
same. I planted them last October and they 
were doing well until lately. I can find no 
trace of green fly or other pest. Can you 
tell me the cause and the remedy? 
(F. S. A., Middlesex). 
The leaves you sent us have evidently been 
destroyed, or browned at the edges, "by the 
cutting winds and frost at night. They 
will get over this as the weather gets finer, 
ft is quite useless to syringe with Gishurst 
compound, and the fertiliser will also be 
partially lost owing to the fact that the 
roots are not in condition to utilise it. As 
the Roses were only planted last October 
they would scarcely yet be in a position to 
supply the requisite amount of moisture, 
and during cold winds the plants may lose 
more moisture than the roots can supply. 
You are no worse off, however, than other 
people under similar conditions. 
1896. Rose Leaves Browned and 
Curled. 
Would you please tell me through your 
paper the cause of my Rose leaves going like 
the enclosed. Is it rust? (New Reader). 
It is too early yet to expect rust upon 
your Rose leaves. These spots will not 
make their appearance until well into sum¬ 
mer. The leaves have been destroyed by 
cold winds and late frosts, as mentioned in 
the previous answer. 
1897. Rose Leaves Getting Rusty. 
I find the leaves of my Roses '(standards) 
are getting rusty-looking and are shrivel¬ 
ling up. There also seems to be something 
eating the shoots at the junction of the 
stems. I enclose a piece of foliage for your 
inspection and would be glad to know what 
is wrong, and the remedy, through the 
columns of your interesting journal. (S. H. 
Granger, Kent.) 
Your Rose leaves have been injured by 
cold winds and frost at night, as in the 
above-mentioned cases. We do not see any¬ 
thing that can be eating into the shoots at 
the junction of the stem. It is just pos¬ 
sible in some instances that the shoots would 
have been exposed to frost at night. There 
are, however, many Rose grubs at work, 
some of which eat into the pith, but that 
could best be determined by examination on 
the spot. Most of the Rose sawflies feed 
upon the leaves, and during May and June 
you should be continually looking amongst 
them for grubs or caterpillars before much 
harm is done. The early part of the season 
is much more important than later on, as 
iB GARDENING WORLD. 
the grubs leave the Roses to pass through 
their other stages of life. You should also 
see that the shoots are not rubbing against 
wires, stakes or against one another, as that 
would serve to injure the young skin and 
allow the spores of canker to enter. This, 
of course, is a matter of proper pruning at 
the right season and tying later on if neces¬ 
sary. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
1898. Trees and Shrubs to Name, 
Will you kindly give me any information 
with regard to the enclosed. (C. Bucking¬ 
ham, Sussex). 
The yellow flower is the common Barberry 
(Berberis vulgaris). It is usually propa¬ 
gated by taking off suckers and by seeds. 
If it was necessary to layer shoots in order 
to get them rooted you should do that. It 
all (lepends upon convenience, material and 
the number required as to the best method 
of propagation to pursue. We do not think 
you would succeed in striking cuttings. The 
shrub is of easy cultivation in any well- 
tilled and well-drained garden soil. If 
you have a shrubbery border, the best plan 
is to keep the ground well hoed in summer 
to keep down weeds and aerate it. The 
white flower is Pyrus lobata, also known as 
P. grandiflora and P. Smithii. It is one of 
the Medlars and may be propagated by 
seeds, layers, budding and grafting. If 
you can lay down some of the shoots during 
July, roots would probably be formed dur¬ 
ing autumn. Make a cutting in the shoot as 
you would for a Carnation, peg down the 
shoot and cover it with a mixture of sandy 
loam and leaf mould. You could also bud 
it upon the Pear stock or Hawthorn during 
the summer months, or graft it on those 
stocks in spring. Some of the species of 
Pyrus may be rooted from cuttings, and 
you could try it in that way by inserting the 
cuttings firmly in a piece of prepared soil 
some time in November. The other tree you 
sent us was the Fiery Thorn (Crataegus 
Pyracantha). It is not the Holy Thorn, al¬ 
though it may be known locally under such 
a name. It may be propagated by seeds 
which may take more than a year to ger¬ 
minate, and also by suckers, although we 
should not advise that method. The best 
plan would be to bud it upon stocks of 
the common Hawthorn some time in sum¬ 
mer when the bark will lift easily. It may 
also be grafted on the same stock during the 
latter part of March or the beginning of 
April. Shoots could also be layered in the 
same way as recommended for Pyrus lo¬ 
bata. It may be grown in the shrubbery or 
trained against the wall of a house, where 
it proves acceptable on account of the white 
flowers in May and the red haws which 
hang on all the winter. The leaves are, of 
course, evergreen. If your garden is in¬ 
fested with birds it may be necessary to 
cover the berries with netting. We have 
seen them hang on all the winter, however, 
without this care. 
VEGETABLES. 
1899. Tomatos Growing Like Grapes. 
In reference to No. 1863 we have received 
an answer from Mr. E Skelding, of Droit- 
wich, and have forwarded the reply to the, 
correspondent who asked the question. 
FRUIT. 
1900. Fig Tree in Shaded Spot. 
Having read other gardening papers 1 
find yours the most explanatory for ama¬ 
teurs. May I ask, therefore, your kind ad¬ 
vice on the two following matters. I have 
a full-sized Fig tree in a shaded spot in the 
June 8, 1907. 
garden, the fruits of which develop to aboi 
the size of a large Walnut and then drop of 
Can you tell me how to cultivate the fru 
to a full size to ripen off on the tree ? (F. I 
Willats, Middlesex). 
Your Fig tree is unable to ripen its fru 
for two reasons. Being in a shaded spot 
does not ripen its wood properly in the ai 
tumn, and our summer season is all tc 
short for it to ripen the fruits. All fru 
trees, but Fig trees especially, require dire< 
sunshine to make them ripen their fruit 
sufficiently to be fit for eating. The onl 
remedy under the circumstances is to prt 
pare a place for the tree in a sunny situs 
tion against a wall, where it will ripe 
its wood, and also the first crop of fruit 
which the Fig tree bears. Select a situs 
tion at the foot of a wall facing the sout 
or as near that quarter as possible. Tak 
out the soil to the depth of 2 ft. wide am 
2 ft. deep. If the natural material is of 
clayey nature it will be necessary to connec 
this hole with a drain that will take awa 
superfluous water. Then put some brick¬ 
bats in the bottom, cover them with turf am 
fill in with good loam containing a gooi 
proportion of mortar rubbish or chalk. In 
deed, the drainage in the bottom may consis 
of lumps of chalk, as this is favourable t 
the well-being of Fig tree's. We advise th 
making of a hole of the above dimensions 
as Fig trees usually give most satisfactioi 
when their root run is rather confined. It 
lifting the tree you will find it necessar; 
to shorten back the long rambling roots ant 
retaining all the fibres present so far a: 
possible. Use a sharp knife so that thi 
wounds may quickly heal over. This oper 
ation may be carried out some time in Marcl 
and the soil made quite firm over the roots 
During the first season you may not be ablt 
to secure ripe Figs owing to the shifting 
but it should be in a position to fruit in tht 
following summer. 
1901. Pear Trees in a Shady Position. 
I have some dwarf Pear trees plantec 
about two years ago in a shady position 
similar to the Fig tree. The fruits, how 
ever, drop off almost immediately after the 
blossom has fallen. (F. H. Willats, Mid¬ 
dlesex). 
Before you can get much satisfaction from 
your Pear trees they must be in a position tc 
get a fair amount of sunshine during the 
day. If they can be fully exposed to sun 
all day long so much the better. Select a 
portion of the garden fully exposed and 
where the soil has recently been trenched. 
If it has not been trenched you should trench 
it before planting the trees. No manure is 
necessary for young Pears. It does not 
follow, however, that your Pear trees will 
fruit every year, although if they are 
shaded during most of the day we cannot 
lay out any hopes that you will be able to 
fruit them in future. Many things occur 
to prevent Pear trees from fruiting, such 
as late frosts during the period of blossom 
or damage by insects. To succeed with 
fruiting, however, it is necessary to provide 
a sunny situation in good soil or so im¬ 
prove the soil as to make it suitable for 
them. Unless Pear trees are in favourable 
situations they do not fruit so well as Apple 
trees as a rule. 
GARDEN ENEMIES AND FUNGI. 
1902. Ants in Greenhouse. 
I have a small greenhouse, which I had 
built during last winter and which is liter¬ 
ally swarmed with ants. I believe these 
insects do very little harm when few in 
number, but I have several times lately gone 
into the house and seen streams of ants go¬ 
ing backwards and forwards from different 
flower pots in which plants were growing. 
