406 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
June 15, 1907. 
year should get plenty of air, this being done 
early in the day, before the house gets heated 
up. This is with the object of not creating 
a draught in the house, as that would be 
injurious. You made a mistake, however, in 
taking out the tips of the plant, as the Roses 
should come on the top. It may flower this 
year yet, but the side shoots will now take 
longer to flower than the mai-n stem would 
have done. The variety is not a very suit¬ 
able one for greenhouse culture. It is a 
Hybrid Perpetual, which the confinement is 
causing to grow more rampantly than it 
otherwise would. We should plant it out of 
doors at the beginning of November, and 
get some other variety more suitable for the 
purpose. If you want a Rose as a pot plant 
you should get the H.P. Capt. Hayward, 
which is a dark Rose corresponding to the 
one which you have, only it is more suitable 
for pot culture. If you require a climber 
you could plant climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, 
which is a Hybrid Tea with rosy-pink 
flowers; or, if you would prefer a dark one, 
get the Hybrid Tea Francois Crousse, with 
crimson flowers. If you still prefer to grow 
the Rose you have, give it plenty of ventila¬ 
tion to stiffen and manure the wood for 
flowering, and never stop the growing stems 
till they have flowered. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
1918. Name and Treatment of Shrub. 
Please say what is the name of the en¬ 
closed shrub and the treatment it requires. 
I want to grow it if hardy. What is the 
best time to plant it and the suitable soil ? 
(Shrub, Staffs.) 
The shrub is the Garland Daphne (Daphne 
Cneorum). It delights in a moist, peaty 
soil, so that you could make up a piece of 
soil for it entirely of peat, partly 
of peat, or if you cannot get that, 
use a good quantity of leaf mould 
with the natural soil. We have seen it suc¬ 
ceed admirably in ordinary garden soil, but 
that was, we believe, of a sandy character 
and fairly moist. It is also admirably 
adapted for planting on rockeries on account 
of its dwarf, trailing habit. Take out a hole 
for it and make up a compost of soil and 
some of the ingredients above-mentioned. 
Planting may be done in October, or again 
in March. The latter month would be the 
best, as you could get it established before 
the heat of summer sets in. It is perfectly 
hardy, and you should have no difficulty in 
establishing it by planting in October. 
1919. Box Hedge Dying. 
Will you be kind enough to tell me what 
to do about our Box hedge, which borders 
the garden? It is dying in patches and 
going very thin and straggling in other 
places. (E. Burnham, Midlothian.) 
When you speak of a hedge bordering 
the garden we presume that you mean Box 
edgings. The plant is, of course, also used 
for hedges, but the operation in renovating 
an edging and a hedge would be quite differ¬ 
ent. Presuming that you mean the Box edg¬ 
ing, we should say that it wants lifting and 
re-laying. If it is the dwarf variety, it is 
liable to die in certain gardens, especially 
where the soil is heavy. In such a case we 
have lifted an edging that was gappy and 
re-laid it with the ordinary tree form of the 
Box, which is a more vigorous grower. If 
your garden is properly drained, the best 
way would be to lift the Box, laying it in 
temporarily somewhere out of the way, then 
dig the ground where the edging should be, 
breaking it up finely. Have it properly 
levelled according to the level or slope of 
the garden, then tread the newly-dug soil. 
The next operation is to lay a garden-line, 
making it quite tight for the purpose of 
getting it straight. Then, with a spade cut 
a little trench close up to the line for the 
purpose of re-laying the Box. Earlier in 
the season would really have been the better 
time, because the Box will now be in full 
growth, but you could do this in September, 
or wait till next March. The next operation 
is to break up the Box into small sprays 
with roots, if possible, but the Box will 
form roots if kept moist until roots are emit¬ 
ted. In laying these sprays in the trenches 
it should be done neatly, so as to get a close 
line only 2 in. or 3 in. above the level of 
the walk. A little soil should be placed 
against the Box to keep it in position while 
it is being laid. Then, with the spade, more 
soil can be put in and trodden quite firm 
about the Box. If the Box you mention is 
really a hedge, it would be necessary to dig 
out all the dead and dying plants and re¬ 
place them with good-sized, healthy speci¬ 
mens from a nursery, but that would be 
rather a costly method. If you really mean 
a Box edging, and the plants are so tall 
that few roots can be got upon sprays, a good 
plan would be to dig up all the bushes and 
lay them on their side in a reserved part 
ot the garden, where you could cover them 
with earth right up to the leaves. This 
would encourage the production of roots 
higher up the stems and make useful 
material for an edging next year. A tempo-. 
rary edging of something could be made 
to bound the walks. Another plan would be 
to get Box of the proper size from the nur¬ 
sery to form a good edging. If your soil 
is heavy, this would be the best plan, as you 
could order the tree Box from a nursery. 
1920. Height of Junipers. 
To what height does Juniperus tamarisci- 
folia grow? How far apart should speci¬ 
mens be planted ? Likewise, give the height 
of the common English Juniper and the dis¬ 
tance apart which it should be planted. 
(M. A., Lines.) 
The first Juniper you mention is a variety 
of J. Sabina or common Savin tree. Your 
variety differs from the type in being more 
procumbent; that is, it either spreads on the 
ground or forms a low, horizontal mass. 
Its height is, therefore, immaterial, but as 
it may spread over the ground for a con¬ 
siderable distance in the course of some 
years it might be planted about 4 ft. apart. 
That, of course, would leave much open 
space, and we think a better plan would be 
to plant it at 18 in. or 2 ft. apart each way, 
and when the plants grow to cover that 
space transplant every other to some other 
position. They are capable of being trans¬ 
planted, if you take care to lift them with a 
ball of soil. A plant of this habit is, there¬ 
fore, suitable for covering dry banks or 
rockeries. The common English Juniper (J. 
communis) varies greatly in height and 
habit. Very often it may be found as a low, 
spreading bush only 3 ft. or 4 ft. high, but 
specimens have grown to a height of 15 ft. 
or 20 ft. We refer, of course, to the common 
wild form. The upright habited Juniper is 
quite a distinct variety, forming compact 
columns 12 ft. to 18 ft. high; that is, the 
Irish Juniper. We mention these two for 
the sake of comparison, because the Irish 
Juniper would really require less space be¬ 
tween every two specimens than the English 
Juniper, as the former is upright and 
the latter spreading. If you intend the com¬ 
mon or spreading form to be planted per¬ 
manently in a group, they would not be too 
close at 10 ft. or 12 ft. apart, but if you wish 
to keep them like dwarf shrubs they may be 
planted 3 ft. or 4 ft. apart. We do not see 
any particular object in planting the upright 
Irish Junipers close together unless you wish 
to make an avenue. They look best when 
distributed about in certain positions where 
they will be seen from all quarters. No 
other plants with evergreen foliage must be 
allowed to grow against them, otherwise the 
leafy branches of the Juniper will die. 
VEGETABLES. 
1921. Unknown Plant in Carden. 
Will you kindly tell me the name of the 
enclosed ? I have found a lot in my garden. 
(Sambrook, Essex.) 
The specimens you sent us were tubers of 
the Jerusalem Artichoke (Helianthus tube¬ 
rous). They had been placed in the garden 
either accidentally with soil or rubbish, or 
there may have been a plantation on some 
previous occasion. Where you see a stem 
coming up you should get a fork and dig 
out the tuber. 
1922. Scarlet Runners Damaged with 
Frost. 
I made an early sowing of Scarlet Run¬ 
ners to get them well advanced, but the 
tops have been greatly damaged by frost. 
Will they recover, or should I make another 
sowing ? Would a stimulant of any sort be 
useful in urging them into growth? (Scar, 
lex Runner, Yorkshire.) 
We presume-that only the top leaves of the 
plant have been injured by frost. And 
in that case the plants will sprout 
up again from under the surface of 
the ground. There are buds close to 
the seed leaves already in the ground, 
and if any accident happens to the top these 
spring up and produce running stems. It 
will delay their growth, however, but you 
could sow some seeds in boxes and rear them 
in a cold frame. When they have got 6 in. 
high you can plant them out where they are 
to- grow and fruit. Instead of sowing early 
in the open, a better plan would have been 
to make a sowing in boxes in a cold frame. 
You can then have them of good size after 
all danger of frost is over, 
1923. The Right Kind of Mint. 
Two years ago there was some complaint 
that I had not got the right kind of Mint, 
and I said I would get some more kinds, 
which I did, and planted them in the gar¬ 
den. Some were obtained from other gar¬ 
dens and some were wild Mints. They have 
made good growth, and I'told the kitchen 
maid I had got several kinds and she could 
come and choose for herself. Please say 
what the three kinds are. Nos. 1 and 2 are 
what I have mostly grown, but No. 3 is a 
wild one, and she selected That. Can you 
say what it is, and oblige? Puzzled, Sus¬ 
sex.) 
No. 1 was Mentha piperita, or Pepper¬ 
mint. No. 2 was M. viridis, or Spearmint. 
No. 3 was M. gracilis, or a variety of it. 
There is a great variety of opinion as tc 
which is the proper Mint to use for kitchen 
purposes, but we are afraid that not one in 
twenty knows the difference between one 
Mint and another. Some seem to get ac¬ 
customed to one sort and some to another. 
Both those garden Mints are obtainable both 
in private gardens and in market gardens. 
We have also seen the Horse Mint (M. syl- 
vestris) used iq a private establishment with¬ 
out any complaint whatever. You can grow 
the wild Mint, but possibly before another 
year the kitchen maid may select some oi 
the others. In any case, you need not worn 
while she is happy, as all of -them are easy 
to cultivate. 
1924. Manures for Kitchen Garden. 
I have a piece of land for kitchen garder 
that has been lying fallow for about thre< 
years. I have a general kitchen garder 
stock of vegetables, and should like to knov 
if any sort of artificial manure would tx 
beneficial for it, as I have been unable t< 
get any farmyard manure. It is fairlj 
heavy land and had previously been farn 
land. (Beginner, Norfolk.) 
