695 
October 26, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD . 
-U think that is not the plant yon mean, 
, u might send ns a frond or a portion 
a frond if a large one. The present is 
>t a good time to repot a Hare s-toot Fern, 
en although it may appear pot-bound and 
>ung leaves are being made. For this lat- 
r reason, however, you should not by any 
eans let the soil get dry. For some rea- 
L or other the growth is being made late 
. the season, but plenty of moisture should 
• criven to enable these fronds to attain 
leir full size under available conditions, 
he plant, moreover, is evergreen if it is the 
>mmon Hare’s-foot Fern (Davallia canari- 
isis). It will keep better in this pot-bound 
jndition over the dull months of winter, 
ad can be repotted in February or March 
wording to the temperature you keep it in. 
f in a greenhouse, where it should be, 
[arch would be quite early enough to -re- 
ot it. Keep it as near the glass as possible 
1 the meantime to encourage the propel 
evelopment of the young leaves. _ 
FLOWER GARDEN . 
:306. Michaelmas Daisies and Larger 
Flowers. 
I Lave some Michiaelmas Daisies, but I 
hink they ought to have larger flowers. 
Vhat would you recommend me to do to 
'et them larger? They are 5ft. high, but 
hey are very thick, and the flowers seem 
.mailer than they were last year. If they 
vant thinning, when is the best time to do 
his? .(Fred. Longford, Staffs.) 
Some (time in November, when the leaves 
ire getting shabby, owing to the cold 
weather, you can then cut down the old 
stems and lift the old plants. Then trench 
the ground aft. or 2*flt. deep, mixing with 
it plenty of farmyard manure if you can 
get it. Level the bed and plant the 
Michaelmas Daisies. By means of an old 
knife cut off portions from the outside o. 
the clump, and if rooted suckers so much 
the better. These young portions will make 
much better growth than the harder portion 
from the centre of the clumps. In spring 
you can observe whether the stems are 
crowded or not, and if so thin out the 
shoots so that only a few stems with 6m. 
between them are left. These will make 
stronger growth and produce much larger 
flowers than if all the stems are allowed to 
come up and crowd one another. You will 
be surprised at the difference between the 
stems that grow thinly and those that are 
crowded. 
2307. Unknown Carnations. 
I have had some Carnations sent to me by 
a gentleman, and amongst them are the fol¬ 
lowing varieties, which I cannot find in any 
catalogue which I have got. Do you know 
them, and if so can you give me the colours 
of them? (Carnations, Notts.). 
Of the seventeen varieties which you name 
in your list only one occurs in our book of 
“ Select Carnations, Picotees and Pinks, 
namely, Cassandra, which is a border 
variety with pale, flesh coloured flowers 
We have also examined some of the best 
catalogues in the country and fad to find 
more than two others, namely, Dora, a 
white ground, fancy Carnation, and Lthe 
Deans a yellow ground, edged and slightly- 
barred with rose. There is one you name 
Cerice which might possibly be Ceres, a 
yellow border Carnation. The others which 
we cannot find are S. S. Dare, Lady White, 
Golden Gem, Lady Anna, Jeane Gordon, 
Sarah Grey, Eastgate Beauty, Mme. Allani, 
Betty, Miss House, Mrs. House, Mrs. Simp¬ 
son, and Mary Hillier. There are probaoly 
hundreds of people all over the country 
raising Carnations from seed, and many 
people thus raise their own list of Carna- 
lions and name them. Whether this is the 
case wiith the varieties you name we can¬ 
not say, but if they had been varieties of a 
high order of merit we think that some of 
them at least should have got into the lean¬ 
ing lists of varieties. Another way to get 
at it is to ascertain from whence your friend 
had them, if that is possible. 
2308. Fuchsias and Geraniums. 
I have some Fuchsias and Geraniums 
which have been in the ground all the sum¬ 
mer. Will you kindly instruct me through 
vour paper the best way to keep them till 
next year? J have no greenhouse or cold 
frame. (T. M., Surrey.) 
Your best plan would be to lift them at 
once and pot them in as small pots as will 
conveniently hold the roots. Use a light 
sandy soil in both cases. Pot firmly and 
leave the Fuchsias outside in a sheltered 
place till the leaves fall from them. The 
Pelargoniums should be taken inside the 
house and placed in a lighted position close 
to a window. If you have a spare room, that 
would suit them admirably. No watering 
will be required for some time, and none 
should be given until soil begins to look 
dry and get brown. When the leaves have 
dropped from the Fuchsias you can store 
them in any house whether it is dark or 
light, but when they commence sprouting 
in 'spring they should be put in a lighten 
position and watered when they require it 
so that they may continue growing till some 
time in May, when you can stand them on 
the sunny side of a wall, so that they will 
be sheltered and continue to grow till you 
plant them out about the end of May. See 
also questions Nos. 2262 and 2263, where 
further information is given. 
2309. Best Varieties of Aubrietias. 
I have some plants of Aubrietia \\ illiam 
Ingram with rose-coloured flowers. Could 
you tell me how to increase it, as I wish 
to make a bed of it or a bed of different 
colours? Pleas© give me the names of the 
best varieties, so that I could have six kinds 
to put into the bed in spring. >(J. Murray, 
Hants.) 
When the plants begin to grow in March 
or the beginning of April you can lift them 
and pull them into small pieces with some 
roots to each. This will give you a num¬ 
ber of plants, but later on, say, in June or 
July, you would be able to get cuttings to 
be 'dibbled into some light sandy soil, 
watered with a rose, and then covered with 
a handlight. Another way is to fill some 
poits of sandy soil, dibble them firmly into 
that, and place the pots under a handlight 
or in a frame. At that time of the year 
the frame should be kept shaded during 
day, that is, during bright sunlight, until 
■the cuttings begin to show signs of grow¬ 
ing. Good companion varieties to go with 
William Ingram are Dr. Mules (rich pur¬ 
ple), Prichard’s Ai (large dark purple), 
Leichtlini (bright rose), Leichtlini Fire 
King (brilliant crimson), and Campbell 1 
(violet blue). 
HEDGES. 
2310. Evergreen Hedges. 
Will you be good enough to name about 
nalf-a-dozen evergreen plants suitable for 
making hedges? We want to have partition 
hedges to hide some parts of the garden 
from another, as well as to give some 
shelter. (A. T. W., Yorks.) 
Six plants that may be employed for mak¬ 
ing hedges are Yew, Holly, Cotoneaster 
Simonsii, Thuya gigantea, T. occidemtalis, 
and Cupressus nutkatensis. You will notice 
that the first one and the last three of these 
are conifers. The three last are not exten¬ 
sively used for making hedges, but they 
prove suitable enough if not cut too hard. 
They will get up high enough to produce 
shelter, after which they may be topped. 
If you would prefer a Privet hedge to some 
of these conifers, you could plant the com¬ 
mon Privet (Ligustrum vulgare). Other 
Privets .that make good hedges are Ligus¬ 
trum ovalifolium, L. o. aureum, and L. 
Lbota. The Golden Privet, Ligustrum 
ovalifolium aureum, would make the 
brightest and most ornamental hedge of all 
the above plants, and we think u would 
succeed in your district. The Holly and 
Yew are very slow growing, but they make 
the most permanent hedges. 
ROSES. 
2311. Continuous-Blooming Roses. 
Are the following Roses continuous bloom¬ 
ing? Also name others which are fairly 
lhardy and continuous blooming : — Ulrich 
Brunner, Violet Bouyer, Emperor of Maroc, 
Mme. G. Luizet, Prosper Langier (H. P .), 
Antoine Rivoire, Jules Toussaint, Viscount¬ 
ess Folkestone, Fred. Schoeder, Bardou Job 
(H. T.), Mme. Berard, and Mme. I. Periere. 
I have the following already planted : — 
Frau Karl Druschki, Souvenir de la Mal- 
maison, Mme. Alfred Carriere, Conrad 1 . 
Meyer, and General Jacqueminot. (Con¬ 
stant Reader, Essex.) 
Of the first list you mention a number 
of them, if not exactly continuous bloom¬ 
ing, flower a second time in autumn, and 
we presume this is what you mean. ^ The 
varieties that behave in this way are Ulrich 
Brunner, Antoine Rivoire, Viscountess 
Folkestone, Bardou Job, Mme. Berard, and 
Mme. I. Periere. Possibly Jules Toussaint 
would also be continuous, as it is a 1 . Rose. 
The others in that list are very doubtful. 
All the varieties mentioned in your second 
list would bloom more or less continuously 
or a second time. Conrad F. Meyer is a 
variety of Rosa rugosa which blooms early, 
but we should prefer Blanche Double de 
Coubert, as it is pure white, sweet scented, 
and continues in bloom throughout the 
season, .Several of those named in the list 
we do not very much admire on account of 
their colour, which is not very attractive. 
We have selected a number of more up-to- 
date Roses and varieties that are much ad¬ 
mired by rosarians generally. _ Amongst 
continuous-blooming H. T. varieties, we 
should name Richmond, Liberty, Mme. Per- 
net Ducher, Mme. Ravary, Mrs. W. J. 
Grant, Caroline Testout, Gruss an Teplitz, 
La France, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Lady Bat¬ 
tersea, ICaiserin A. Victoria, and Camoens. 
Fine H.P.s that bloom a second time are 
Mrs. J. Laing, Baroness Rothschild, and 
Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford. _ T. Roses 
worthy of your attention are G. Nabonnand, 
Lady Roberts, Corallina, Mme. Lombard, 
Mme. Falcot, and Betty Berkeley. A con¬ 
tinuous-blooming Bourbon Rose is Armosa, 
a Noisette Rose is W. A. Richardson, two 
good Chinas are Aurore and Perle d’Or, 
though any of the Chinas or monthly Roses 
are continuous bloomers. 
2312. Dorothy Perkins as a Hedge. 
Having seen Dorothy Perkins Rose flower¬ 
ing splendidly as a pillar plant, I have an 
idea that it would make a splendid hedge 
if it would be self-supporting. I want to 
put up something that would make a screen 
to shut out the view of some unsightly- 
buildings. Can you give me any advice 
on this matter, and I should be obliged? 
(E. C. Randall, Northumberland.) 
There are two ways of supporting this 
Rose. For instance, you could plant a line 
of them and afterwards drive a line of 
stakes along the centre to which some of 
the main stems could be fastened. Another 
method which would answer even better, 
as it would give the Rose a better oppor¬ 
tunity, would be to make a trellis of stakes, 
and bamboo canes would be very durable. 
The Roses could then be planted alongside 
of this and the main stems trained to the 
