THE GARDENING WORLD. 
bamboos. You should not commence fcis 
without making preparations to give the 
Roses a good start. A wide trench should 
be taken out where the Roses are to be 
planted and plenty of farmyard manure 
worked in amongst it as you fill in the 
trench again. After this has settled you 
can ereot the trellis, then plant the Roses. 
TREES AND SHRUBS . 
2313. Small Trees for Front Garden. 
The enclosed I have cut from your valu¬ 
able paper of February 3rd, 1906, and I 
now ask you please to tell me where I can 
buy the trees to make sure of getting the 
right thing. (W. G. Jones, Surrey.) 
The tree mentioned in the cutting is 
Amelanchier canadensis, which may be 
grown in some nurseries under the name of 
Amelanchier Botryapium, which is another 
name for the :same free. The Snowy Mes- 
pilus is, however, well known, and you 
should have no difficulty in getting it from 
Messrs. J. Veiitch and Sons, Ltd., Chelsea, 
or from Messrs. J. Cheal and Sons, Low- 
field Nurseries, Crawley, Sussex. You can 
get Pyrus floribunda likewise from either 
of these nurserymen. 
2314. Planting: Climbers. 
We have a wall about 14ft. high which 
we intend to cover with creepers. When is 
the best time to plant them, and should they 
be cut back like Roses? They are Jasminum 
officinale, Passiflora Constance Elliott, 
Magnolia exoniensis, Akebia quinata, Cra¬ 
taegus Lelandi, Ceanothus Gloire de Ver¬ 
sailles, Clematis montana, and Lonicera 
hall.iana. (A. 'C. N., Sussex.) 
The 'best time to plant these is any time 
after the leaves fall up to the middle of 
November, as they can then get partly es¬ 
tablished before winter sets in. They may, 
however, be planted right up to the end of 
March, though they will be somewhat later 
starting into growth than if the planting 
took place in November. It is quite unusual 
to prune back climbers when they are 
planted, but it would very often prove ad¬ 
vantageous to them just as it does to climb¬ 
ing Roses which are dug out of the ground. 
The plants that may be cut back are Jas¬ 
minum, Passiflora, Akebia, Ceanothus, and 
Lonicera. If they are in pots cutting back 
would be entirely unnecessary, but when the 
roots have been dug out of the ground long 
stems are a great disadvantage by draining 
the plants of their moisture at a time when 
the roots are unable to supply it. 
VEGETABLES. 
2315. Selection of Vegetables. 
Being a novice I am going to make use 
of your kind 'nvitation and seek a little 
advice. I .have just taken over one of the 
County Council allotments, and 1 intend 
growing mostly vegetables. I wish to 
ask you if the ground would want anything 
else besides a good trenching. I also wish 
you to give me a good selection of vege¬ 
tables. Name which are the earliest and 
make a good succession, and describe the 
time of planting. I want to make it go, 
which I know I shall if I follow out your 
valuable advice. I must also say 'that I 
have derived great benefit from your paper 
in my flower garden, that is why I am 
taking your advice. Attached you will find 
a plan of ground and the situation and 
what was grown on it this season. (Novice, 
Essex.) 
Taking into consideration your district, 
we believe the soil is very deep and natur¬ 
ally fairly rich. Vegetables are heavy 
feeders, however, and you would find it 
advantageous to give some farmyard manure 
while trenching it. As it lies low and may 
be wet in winter, horse manure would be 
lighter than cow manure, and possibly easier 
to get. In looking at your plan, we find 
that the vegetables are scattered rather ir¬ 
regularly all over the ground, except that 
portion devoted to flowers. We should ad¬ 
vise you to calculate how much of the 
ground you intend to devote to vegetables 
and divide this ground into four quarters, 
so as to keep certain vegetables together for 
the sake of making a rotation. For instance, 
beginning at either end of the ground, you 
could have a quarter devoted to Cabbages, 
Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower, Broccoli and 
dwarf curled Kale. You need not neces¬ 
sarily grow so many kinds, but all those 
things should be placed on one piece of 
ground. Another quarter could (be devoted 
chiefly to Potatos. A third portion of the 
ground could be sown with Carrots, Pars¬ 
nips, Beet, Onions, and Leeks. The fourth 
division could be devoted to Peas, Scarlet 
Runners, Dwarf Beans, and Broad Beans. 
Now, the year after next the Cabbages, etc., 
on plot 1, could all be transferred to plot 
2. The Peas, Scarlet Runners, etc., in plot 
4, could be transferred to plot 1. ■ Now dur¬ 
ing four years none of these things would 
be grown on the same plot twice in succes¬ 
sion, and the Cabbages would not come upon 
the same ground again until the fourth year. 
This enables you the better to keep the 
ground clear of various enemies which at¬ 
tack all the Cabbage tribe and Turnips. 
For instance, the diseases which affect 
Potatos would be quite different from those 
which attack Cabbages and vice versa. You 
can easily make a start at this division of 
the ground when you get it entirely clear. 
The Rhubarb could all be planted at one 
end, as you would not require to disturb 
that except at long intervals. Now to get a 
succession you should sow Ellam’s Early 
Dwarf Cabbage about the beginning of 
August, Sit. John’s Day and Winningsitadt 
early in March and again in April. As a 
matter of fact you would only require to 
make small sowings of each of these kinds, 
planting them out whenever they are ready. 
Making a small sowing at different times is 
the secret of keeping up a succession. In 
the way of Brussels Sprouts you could sow 
The Wrox.ton or Scrymger’s Giant about 
the beginning and end of March. For 
Cauliflowers sow Early London about 
the middle of August and transplant it into 
a cold frame in November, to be planted out 
of doors in spring when the weather be¬ 
comes suitable. At the beginning of March 
sow Walcheren and Veitch’s Autumn Giant 
Cauliflowers. You could even sow the last- 
named variety at the beginning of April. 
For Broccoli sow the Purple Sprouting 
about the end of March, then for a succes¬ 
sion sow Snow’s Winter White Broccoli in 
April. Dwarf Curled Kale may be sown 
about the beginning of April. All of the 
above that are sown in spring should be 
planted where they are to grow whenever 
they become fit. They should not be left 
in the beds to become leggy and weak. For 
Potatos you could plant the White Kidney, 
Beauty of Hebron, or Sir John Llewellyn 
at the end of March. As a second early 
you could plant Royal Kidney about the 
middle of April. Splendid main-crop Pota¬ 
tos are The Factor, The Crofter, and Up-to- 
date, which may be planted in March or 
April, as they are naturally late in making 
their growth. To get a succession of Carrots 
you should sow Early Horn or Nantes abqut 
the beginning of March and Intermediate 
Carrot for a main-crop about the first of 
April. Hollow Crown Parsnips may be 
sown in February or March. For Beet sow 
Cheltenham Green Top or Pragnell’s Ex¬ 
hibition about the beginning of April. We 
presume you require Peas, and on your low 
lying ground.-we think English Wonder 
need not be sown before the beginning of 
October 26, 1907. 
March. A fortnight later you can sow Mai 
Queen, then Gradus and Alderman. Fron 
the beginning of April till the middle oi 
June you can makeyepeated sowings of Pern 
every fortnight if you require a long sue 
cession. Alderman is, however, a lafi 
variety, but should not be sown later than 
the beginning of June. Onions may be 
sown at the beginning of March, or even 
a little earlier if you find the ground in 
dry and suitable working condition. Splen¬ 
did varieties are Rousham Park Hero and 
Ailsa Craig. Leeks should be sown at the 
same time as Onions, and London Flag and 
Musselburgh will give a succession. Scar¬ 
let Runners may be sown during the first 
week of May and at intervals to the end of 
June for a succession. Dwarf Beans maybe 
sown from the middle of April to the end of 
June. The first sowing should consist of 
Ne plus ultra. A splendid variety for a 
succession is Canadian Wonder. If you re¬ 
quire any Broad Beans you could sow Early 
Mazagan and Green Long Pod at any time 
from February till, April. 
2316. Forcing Vegetables. 
Can you tell me how the above vegetables 
could be forced? (A Novice, Essex.) 
Judging from the plan of your garden 
and the house upon it, you have very little 
convenience for forcing. Not many vege¬ 
tables, as a rule, are forced, and in the 
case of Peas and Dwarf Beans 'this be¬ 
comes expensive in winter, as it requires 
glasshouses with a good command of heat. 
You could, however, force Potatos or bring 
them on earlier if you get a frame or two. 
You would then require to make up a hot¬ 
bed of long littery manure thrown up in a 
heap till they ferment, and then .making up 
a hotbed with it. All these processes can¬ 
not be described in a ishort article, so that 
you should ask questions from time to time 
as they occur to you, or when you find your¬ 
self :in a convenient position for undertak¬ 
ing them. The frame is first set on the top 
of the manure, then covered with6in.of soil 
and Potatos planted in it. If you have an¬ 
other frame, some Seakale or Asparagus 
roots could be planted on the bed, and the 
heat of the fermenting manure would cause 
them to throw up shoots earlier than they 
would do naturally. Seakale and even As¬ 
paragus can, however, be urged into earlier 
growth by putting Seakale pots over the 
crowns and then heaping a bed of manure 
around and over the pots. Further than 
this it is needless for'us to say until you 
tell us what convenience you have for 
forcing anything, then we can be more ex¬ 
plicit. 
FRUIT. 
2 317. Season of Fruits. 
Would you kindly give in your next 
issue of The Gardening World particulars 
of Apples, Pears and Plums named here¬ 
with, that is, whether cooking or dessert, 
time of ripening, keeping qualifies, as I 
can only find some of them in catalogues, 
and the catalogues do not agree. One cata¬ 
logue isays : “ Newton Wonder, November 
to May; Golden Noble, November to De¬ 
cember.” Does this mean that the Apples 
mentioned should be picked November to 
May, etc.? (J. W. H. Gurney, Hants.) 
Catalogues have a little room to differ, 
because Apples and Pears do not always 
ripen exactly at the same time year after 
year even in 'the same garden, as it depends 
largely upon the nature of the season. A 
short distance away the same varieties under 
slightly different conditions may be later in 
ripening than yours. It is only necessary 
to know the general or average time of 
ripening, and then- the rest has to be left 
to your own experience and discretion. 
None of the Apples are left hanging on the 
