710 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
November 2, 1907. 
Last winter was quite an ordinary one, and 
many of the Antirrhinums lived out of doors 
and bloomed well in summer. They are not 
to be depended upon, however, as you are 
liable to lose them. The best plan is to 
save , seeds . from, the best varieties or else 
take cuttings. These may be dibbled, into 
pots or boxes of sandy soil. If you have a 
cold frame you could manage to root them 
yet before spring,, but if you have no such 
convenience we are afraid it would be 
hardly worth while to try cuttings at this 
late period. They could have been inserted 
however at any time during September, the 
earlier the better, and if placed in sandy 
soil they would get well rooted and capable 
of withstanding any amount of cold weather. 
In a native state Antirrhinums live on rocks 
and on old walls, and here they stand out in 
winter. Cuttings rooted early in September 
could be protected with panes of glass 
erected over pots or boxes so as to throw off 
the rain. 
2326. Plants under Trees. 
What plants can be best grown under trees 
and the latter practically in the border? 
(Laborare, Surrey.) 
It depends largely upon whether the trees 
are deciduous or evergreen as to what can 
be grown under them. The density of the 
branches or the closeness of the trees to one 
another would also have a bearing upon the 
subject. It all depends upon the amount of 
light that can get to the plants and the 
amount of rain which they can get or water 
that is supplied to them. The leaves of 
trees always tend to throw off the rain from 
the ground beneath them, and this keeps the 
ground dry during the summer months. 
Bearing these facts in mind, you may be 
able to remove some of the lower branches 
without injuring the appearance of the trees 
with the object of getting light and also rain 
on the plants. Many kinds of bulbs will give 
a good account of themselves under de¬ 
ciduous trees, including Snowdrops, Cro¬ 
cuses, Winter Aconite, and Daffodils in 
great variety. Evergreen plants that suc¬ 
ceed well under trees are Saxifraga umbrosa, 
S. Geum, S. rotundifolia, and others. See 
also question No. 2287, where many other 
plants are mentioned suitable for such situa¬ 
tions. 
23 27. Plants for a Sandy Garden. 
I should be glad of information through 
The Gardening World columns. My garden 
is nearly all sand or small ballast. Would 
bulbs grow in this and what other plants 
might I put in, as I cannot go to the ex¬ 
pense of a few loads of garden mould? The 
sun shines on it nearly all day. (A. S., 
Plum., Kent.) 
We can understand the difficulties you 
have with soil such as you mention ; never¬ 
theless, there are many plants which will 
grow even in that. For instance, you could 
plant Crocuses, Daffodils, Tulips, Chiono- 
doxa Luciliae, S. sardensis, Scilla sibirica, 
S. nutans, and S. hispanica. Plants of an 
evergreen character to bloom later would be 
Sedum acre, S. refluxum, S. rupestre, S. 
spectabile, Sempervivum tectorum, and S. 
calcareum. The two latter are Houseleeks. 
We have seen the Pearly Everlasting (Anap- 
halis margaritacea) doing well on rubbish 
from smelting furnaces. The bulbs would 
have to be got in the form of bulbs and the 
other subjects mentioned in the form of 
plants. You could, however, get a good dis¬ 
play by the use of such annuals as Common 
Marigold (Calendula officinalis),French Mari¬ 
gold, African Marigold, Dwarf Nasturtiums, 
Antirrhinums, and Petunias. All of these 
are, of course, obtainable in the form of 
seeds. In the course of a year or two 
you should get a deal of vegetable matter in 
the soil by growing those annuals and dig¬ 
ging in the rubbish in the autumn or laying 
it in a neap to rot and then returning it to 
the soil. 
WATER GARDEN. 
2328. Making: a Small Water Garden. 
I should esteem it a great favour if you 
could inform me through your columns how 
to make a small water garden. I herewith 
enclose sketch showing details of the portion 
of garden I should like to convert into the 
same. (David Carter, Yorks.) 
Your best plan would be to dig out the 
soil to the depth of 2 ft. or 3 ft. Another 
way would be to take it out to. the depth of 
2 ft. and build a rockery all round the mar¬ 
gin, using bricks for the purpose of holding 
in the water. The inside of this brick wall 
could be cemented. If you would like to 
pursue a course of making a more natural- 
looking pond, the soil could be taken out 
to the depth stated and the bottom and sides 
puddled with clay. Get a large quantity 
of good plastic clay and begin working it by 
chopping it up fine with a spade and mixing 
it with water so as to get it into a pliant 
and plastic condition. All stones should, 
of course, be removed'. Then over the 
bottom of this pond or tank put a layer of 
6 in. of clay and have it regularly and evenly 
trodden down all over the surface. There 
are two ways of finishing off the margin of 
such a pond, and one is to build 1 a brick 
wall from the bottom of the tank to a little 
above the level at which the water is to be 
kept. By this plan you would have deep 
water from the edge of the pond to the 
‘middle. Another plan is to make a pond 
deepest in the centre and gradually slope 
the bottom up to the sides. By this plan 
you would have quite shallow water close 
to the edge. The bottom of such a pond 
could have a covering of 6 in. of loam, and 
in this a great variety of plants could be 
grown. In the case of the pond having the 
bottom sloping gradually upwards to the 
water level, it would have to be puddled for 
some little distance above the high wateT 
level, otherwise the water would percolate 
away into the soil by the sides. If you 
build a close brick wall you could make a 
variety of pockets or niches suitable for 
growing plants either in the soil or in pots 
stood in shallow water. These suggestions 
may be thought out before you commence, 
so that preparations may be made for grow¬ 
ing plants in a variety of ways. If you 
puddle the pond with clay, you should have 
it trodden down at once, and as soon 
as you think it is water-tight, let in 
the water to prevent the clay getting 
dry and cracking. You have said no¬ 
thing as to how you are to get a 
water supply, but you should have an inlet 
for water and also an outlet or overflow for 
the sake of frequently renewing the water to 
keep it clean. The drain for the overflow 
should be deep enough to dry the pond at 
any particular time if you so desire in -order 
to clean it out. 
23 2 9. Ptants for the Water Garden. 
What would be best to grow and when is 
the best time to plant in the water garden? 
(David Carter, Y-orks.) 
For the centre you might well have a 
Water Lily or two, such as Nymphaea alba, 
N. odorata, and N.o. rosea. If you puddle 
the pond, placing soil on the top of the clay, 
then Nymphaeas could be planted directly 
in the soil. If not, you could grow them in 
large pots or wooden boxes. May is the 
best time to get the roots of Water Lilies 
and to plant them. For planting in water 
of no great depth you could get fris Pseud- 
acorus, I.P. variegata, I. sibirica, and I. 
laevigata. The latter is the Japanese Iris, 
and all of these should be planted just above 
the water level, but so that their roots can 
dip down and get plenty of moisture. The 
Flowering Rush (Butomus umbellatus), Bog 
Bean (Menyanthes trifoliata), and Sweet 
Flag or its variegated variety (Acorus cala¬ 
mus variegata') could be grown in water of 
moderate depth, or if the water is deep, 
grow them in piots and stand the latter just 
in water that will reach an inch or two up 
the pots. A great variety of plants that are 
really best suited for bogs could be grown in 
a bed of soil above the water level, provided 
you build up an open wall just holding a 
mass of soil and yet allow the water to 
penetrate so as to imitate a bog. A wall of 
this sort might well be made all along one 
side with the object of getting a moist bed. 
On this you could plant such choice sub¬ 
jects-as Anagallis tenella, varieties of Marsh 
Marigold, such as Caltha palustris, C.p. 
flore pleno, Forget-me-Not (Myosotis palust¬ 
ris), spotted Mimulus (Mim-ulus luteus 
guttatus), and the Scarlet Lobelias (Lobelia 
cardinalis, L. fulgens, L. splendens, and the 
variety Victoriae). Some tall plants that 
would live even in shallow water are Lysi- 
machia punctata and L. clethroides, which 
grows about 2 ft. high. The Water Haw¬ 
thorn (Aponogeton distachyum) could be 
planted even in the deepest part of the pond 
or grown in a pot submerged in the water 
there. 
HEDGES. 
2330. Hedge that Cows will not Eat. 
Could you tell me a nice hedge to plant 
(not bushy) round the garden? I want some 
trees which cows and horses will not eat. 
(J.C.C., Yorks.) 
The free -most frequently planted for mak¬ 
ing hedges to keep out cows and horses is 
Hawthorn. These are planted in the form 
of a double row about a foot from row to 
row and kept well pruned every year. Holly 
is one of the few other plants used for 
making hedges which those animals are not 
likely to eat. It grows more slowly, how¬ 
ever, than Hawthorn. If the hedge is in¬ 
tended to keep back cows and horses, it 
would be necessary to make a wooden fence 
until the hedge is sufficiently high to stop 
cattle. There are many other trees of an 
ornamental character, but we doubt if they 
would be let alone entirely by cows and 
horses. It would be difficult to say what 
cows and horses might not eat even i-f they 
might be only said to nibble at them occa¬ 
sionally, but whether you plant those sub¬ 
jects you mention or any other it would be 
necessary to protect them with a fence in the 
early stages. 
ROSES. 
2331. Suitability of Garden for Roses. 
Will you please tell me if you think that 
my garden is suitably situated to grow Roses 
in and if so what would be the best kind, 
when to plant, and'where most likely to be 
obtained? (J. A. R., Yorks.) 
On the accompanying plan you state that 
your soil is rather heavy with clay bottom. 
That should prove highly suitable for Roses, 
and as far as we can see the situation is 
not against them. The north side of your 
garden is the most favourably situated, as 
it fa-ces the south, but the border on the 
west side would also be suitable for growing 
Roses. On the north border you have room 
for eighteen Roses at 2 l ft. apart by planting 
them in two rows, one row to alternate with 
the other. You do not state whether these 
Roses are to be different from one another, 
but considering your locality, we should re¬ 
commend Hybrid Perpetual and Hybrid Tea 
Roses chiefly. First-class varieties of H.P. 
Roses are Mrs. J. Laing, Frau Karl 
Druschki, General Jacq-ueminot, Mrs. R. G. 
Sharman Crawford, LTlrich Brunner, Capt. 
Hayward, Dupuy Jamain, and Fisher 
Holmes. Good H. T. Roses for that border 
are La France, Caroline Testout, Mme. 
Abel Chatenay, Mme. Ravary, Viscountess 
Folkestone, Liberty, Antoine Rivoire, and 
