November 9, 1907. THE GARDENING WORLD. 
Address : The Editor, The Gardening 
World, 37 and 38, Shoe Lane, London, E.C. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may 
cover any branch of gardening. Questions 
should be as brief as -possible and written on 
one side of the paper only; a separate sheet 
of paper should be used for each question. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans .—Gardeners who would make 
the best use of this column are invited to 
prepare and forward to us a rough outline 
drawing or plan of their gardens, indicating 
the position of beds and lawns, the charac- 
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. 
2340. Keeping a Cold Greenhouse in 
Winter. 
I. was very much interested in Mr. F. 
Wells’ paper last year about the cold green¬ 
house and mean to try the experiment. I 
have a small leantto house 12ft. by 8ft. It 
gets the sun mainly in tthe morning, being 
rather shaded from the south (see plan be- 
iow). At present there are 'Geraniums, Be¬ 
gonias, Fuchsias, etc., flowering in it. 
There are a good many Geranium cuttings, 
mostly well rooted, and three Azaleas, which 
were planted out according to his direc¬ 
tions all the summer. They look well, but 
have no buds at present. There are also 
about eighteen Chrysanthemums full of .buds 
at present. The top and front lights are 
open day and nighit, and the door all day, 
and on mild nights. Would Mr. F. Wells 
very kindly give me any further advice 
about the right way to keep the house and 
plants during the winter? (Lower 
IIardres, Kent.) 
In looking at your plan we note that the 
greenhouse faces south-west, which is toy no 
means a bad aspect if it had not been for 
that Cedar, which must cause a dense shade 
when the sun is passing round that quarter. 
With the exception of the Geraniums you 
cannot expect the other flowers mentioned to 
bloom much longer. A little heat in the 
greenhouse would, of course, have en¬ 
couraged the Geraniums, and looking at 
your plan, it was apparent to us that you 
could readily have kept up. a mild heat in 
the greenhouse with very little more expense 
by having some sort of boiler in the fire 
place of the sitting-room and by passing a 
pipe through the wall into the greenhouse, 
so as to get a circulation of hot water. Cool 
greenhouses, however, have their uses. 
The three Azaleas have, no doubt, been 
under the influence of the Cedar, otherwise 
they" should have been showing flower buds 
by this time. Our experience with Azaleas 
under such conditions is that the plants if 
grown in pots during the summer can be 
stood out of doors to ripen their wood after 
having made .their summer’s growth. This 
causes the buds to plump up., and the plants 
can be taken indoors again at the end of 
September. Chrysanthemums require to be 
kept cool and dry to prevent the damping 
of the flowers, especially during mild and 
foggy weather. Although it is possible to 
grow them fairly well in an unheated struc¬ 
ture, growers find useful .the presence of hot 
water pipes to drive out the moisture from 
the atmosphere during wet weather. The 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden, orchard, etc. Tht 
north side of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
-flat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be marked. Particulars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
received they will be carefully filed, with 
the name and address of the sender, and 
will be consulted by the Editor whenever an 
enquiry is sent. 
writer of the article on .the cold greenhouse 
may, however, help you with advice under 
the circumstances. 
2341. Watering Geranium Cuttings. 
I have recently commenced to .take in your 
paper, and intend to have it every week, as 
I ■ think it very useful. I may say I have 
not had much experience with inside work. 
My last situation was as outside foreman. 
Will you kindly answer the best way to 
deal with a quantity of Roses in 8in. to 
i2in. pots? I have them ouitside close to a 
greenhouse wall. Also Geranium cuttings; 
I have them in boxes in a cool place in the 
greenhouse. Kindly instruct with regard 
to watering. They have been in about three 
weeks and look fairly healthy. The com¬ 
post is about three-quarters sand. There are 
two vineries and two greenhouses here, one 
detached and unheated. (W. D., Black¬ 
pool.) 
The Roses can be taken inside from any 
time now onwards, provided you want the 
Roses to bloom rather early. They should 
be pruned some time in advance of the time 
you .take them in, so as to have them ready 
to push into growth. Judging from what 
you say, however, you have not much com¬ 
mand of fire heat, so that you cannot force 
them. Under those conditions they would 
have .to come along naturally with the aid 
of sun heat and assisted by the greenhouse. 
In any case you can prune them after the 
leaves have commenced to drop so as to be 
ready to start into growth again. The 
Geranium cuttings have been put into root 
rather .late. They would have .been much 
easier to keep through the winter without 
damping if you had put them in early : n 
September. They would have been well 
rooted long before this time, so that all you 
would have to do would be to keep them on 
the dry side, watering them only when it 
becomes necessary. The amount of water¬ 
ing, or the frequency, depends entirely upon 
the state of the weather and whether the 
house they are in is heated or not. If not 
heated you will have to be more careful in 
watering than otherwise. Look over the 
plants twice a week and water only those 
where the soil is very dry. If the compost 
is allowed to get dust dry the roots will not 
only have a difficulty in forming, but many 
of them would die. This is the difficulty 
you have to contend with when putting them 
in so late in the year. For our part, we 
should have preferred to winter them in the 
vinery that is heated, erecting temporary 
hanging shelves near the glass, which would 
give the plants the advantage of light and 
7 2 3 
yet be out of' the way of other subjects in 
the house. During winter we may get some 
severe frost, and if .they are in the heated 
vinery you can Ithen light the fire every 
night when there is an appearance of frost. 
In the event of severe weather an unheated 
greenhouse would hardly be a safe place for 
them unless you adopt other measures to 
prevent them from getting frosted. For in¬ 
stance you could cover them over with a 
double fold of dry newspapers or something 
of that sort to keep them from getting 
frozen. That, however, would tend to cause 
damping if they are not well rooted, so that 
the heated vinery is really the best place 
for them. The compost, according to your 
statement, contains an unusual amount of 
sand, and that in itself would entail more 
watering than if they had a fair proportion 
of loam in the compost. We presume it has 
been used with the object of avoiding damp¬ 
ing under the conditions imposed upon the 
grower. 
FLOWER GARDEN . 
2342. Establishing- Plants on a Wall. 
There is an old wall at the bottom of our 
garden, and I should like to establish some 
plants on it. Could you .tell me the names 
of a number of things which would be 
likely to succeed on it, and the best way to 
proceed ? I have read in your paper about 
how to make a wall to grow plants, .but I 
would have to pull down the wall to do it 
in this way. Do you think it would answer 
as it is? (J. D. R., Dorset.) 
.Some old walls are well suited for the 
growth of plants that naturally establish 
themselves upon walls. If the bricks are 
soft, which we frequently find them to be in 
the case of old walls, and the crevices 
fairly open, it is possible to grow a number 
of plants without any further preparation. 
In your district, also, moisture should be 
fairly plentiful. The easiest plan would 
be to try and establish the plants by means 
of seeds sown early in March in the crevices 
of the walls, but especially on the top. At 
this early period there would be a fair 
amount of moisture to give the seedlings a 
start. You could also lay a turf along the 
top of the wall, which would furnish some 
foothold for the plants- in the early stages. 
Suitable wall plants under these conditions 
would be Wallflower, Antirrhinum, Linaria 
purpurea, L. Cymbalaria, Dianthus plu- 
marius (garden Pink), D. caesius (Cheddar 
Pink), and Centranthus ruber (Red Vale¬ 
rian). Several plants, however, may be es¬ 
tablished in the form of plants, such as 
Sempervivum tectorum and any other species 
of Houseleek which you can get. Several 
of the Sedums can also readily be estab¬ 
lished, -including S. album, S. acre, S. 
rupestre, and others of that class. If dry 
weather prevails at the time or soon after 
sowing you could water the seeds and plant= 
to encourage germination and the rooting of 
the plants. 
LAWNS. 
2343. How to Destroy Daisies. 
We have a lawn which is very much over¬ 
grown with Dais-ies, and soon after the grass 
is cut the Daisies come into bloom again dur¬ 
ing summer and spoil the appearance of the 
grass. Do you know of anything that will 
destroy the Daisies without damaging the 
grass ? I f so, I should be much obliged for 
your advice. (R. Davidsox, Cumberland.) 
The best thing to destroy Daisies whole¬ 
sale is lawn sand, which may be obtained 
from the sundriesman. This is a grey pow¬ 
der which should be scattered over the grass, 
but more especially on those places infested 
by the Daisies. Spring is the best time to 
do this, when the grass is commencing to 
'rtwrrrrrrrrrrs? 
