November i6, 1907. 
736 THE GARDENING WORLD . 
study of herbaceous plants, otherwise he 
might have transplanted a wild specimen to 
his garden and thus left room for adding 
another to his list. If he ordered them and 
got what he asked for, he was well served. 
He may have the consolation, however, of 
knowing that he is not the only one who has 
made similar mistakes. We have known of 
a gentleman who was enamoured of a plant 
he saw in a nursery, and when told that it 
already grew in certain parts of his grounds 
he was quite surprised and said he had never 
seen it before. The Iris named is, of course, 
the botanical name of the English Iris, of 
which there are many varieties. If would 
be well to make the acquaintance of the 
botanical names of these hardy plants, so as 
to make sure of getting different kinds from 
those already possessed. We knew another 
gentleman who sent to Ireland for Drosera 
and Piihguicula, and was astonished when 
one of his gardeners found one of them not 
more than half a mile from his own garden 
and the other only three miles away. 
2365. Planting- Bulbs. 
As a constant reader, I feel I can trouble 
you with the enclosed plan of my small gar¬ 
den. I shall be glad if you can tell me how 
best to plant the enclosed list of bulbs to 
harmonise and give good effect, and to bloom 
about the same time in the spring. The soil 
is a good loam, and I have plenty of sand 
to plant them in. As this is a new Garden 
City, I trust, in return for your trouble, to 
get you plenty of new readers for The Gar¬ 
dening World. (H. ]. Cavell, Middlesex.) 
The bulbs you have got being of a mixed 
character, both as to kind and variety, they 
cannot often be arranged for the different 
kinds to come into bloom at the same time. 
Most of them will harmonise well enough 
while they do bloom together. We shall first 
name the bulbs, stating the approximate time 
at which they will, bloom. By planting them 
now they will be a few days later than if 
■they had been planted at the beginning of 
October, but the winter, if mild, would has¬ 
ten them or retard them .if in any way severe. 
The single Snowdrops should bloom in Feb¬ 
ruary ; the Crocuses, double Snowdrops and 
Scilla sibirica some time in March. The 
single Daffodils should commence about the 
end of March, dependent largely upon the 
particular variety. The double Daffodils, 
mixed border Narcissus and Hyacinths 
should bloom about the beginning of April. 
Late Tulips should bloom in May, and 
Spanish Irises in June. Looking at your 
plan, we should recommend planting the 
flower bed in front of the house with the 
earliest blooming bulbs, putting a line of 
Crocuses round each side about 3in. from 
bulb to bulb. The single Snowdrops could 
be planted as far as they will go along the 
middle of that bed, and the double Snow¬ 
drops in the next half of the bed along the 
middle. The late Tulips you should plant 
in the centre bed, edging them with Scilla 
sibirica and the Hyacinths alternately. By 
this means you will get a continuous display, 
first the Scillas, then the Hyacinths, and 
later on the Tulips. You have not marked 
the size of the bed, but judging from the 
other figures, we think that these bulbs would 
just fill it. Turning now to the bed next the 
pathway from the door, we should plant the 
single Daffodils in a line next the walk. 
The Spanish Irises would form another line 
next to the grass. There should just be suffi¬ 
cient of the double Daffodils and fine mixed 
border Narcissus to make a line along that 
border of 21ft. in length and facing the 
west. This disposes of all your bulbs. The 
Snowdrops, Crocuses and Scillas should be 
planted 3m. deep, the Daffodils, Narcissi, 
Hyacinths, late Tulips and Spanish Irises 
5in. deep. Some recommend them to be 
planted deeper, but in your good, new soil, 
we should scarcely think this necessary. We 
do not know whether you intend to lift them 
at bedding out time, or to leave them in the 
borders, but, in any case, -the .Spanish Irises 
should be left until the foliage dies away 
in July. They really need not be Lifted at 
all, as you can plant other subjects to cover 
the ground where they would leave the 
ground bare. By planting something, or 
sowing annuals, between the bulbs, they will 
then grow to fill the space after the bulbs die 
down. The various colours of the Crocuses 
will blend with one another very well. 
They would also agree with the Snowdrops, 
provided they come into bloom together, but 
we fear they will be over. The Scilla would 
agree with the Hyacinths, but here again 
the Scilla will blo-o-m first. The late Tulips, 
whatever their colours may be, cannot con¬ 
flict with the Hyacinths, but will form a suc¬ 
cession. The same may be said of the 
Irises. The Daffodils will answer the pur¬ 
pose whether mixed or otherwise. If the 
centre bed is not quite filled with the bulbs 
named, you could plant Forget-Me-Not or 
Arabis amongst them, so as to bloom together 
in spring. lit is quite impossible to ensure 
any particular effect when bulbs are mixed 
and their colours unknown when planted. 
The soil should be dug very deeply and well 
pulverised before planting. We should ad¬ 
vise you to lay the bulbs on the soil before 
commencing to plant, in order to enable you 
to space them out equally over the whole 
length of the borders and beds. 
ROSES. 
2366. Reime Marie Henriette Not 
Blooming. 
I take in your paper regularly, and shall 
be grateful for a little information. I have 
a climbing Rose, Reine Marie Henriette, up 
against a south wall in my greenhouse. It 
has made plenty of wood, but not any sign 
of a bud or b.loom on it this year. Last year 
it had about ten blooms. It has been planted 
two years, arid has had liquid manure given 
it. Will you kindly inform me the cause 
of it, and whaj: to do? Also I have some 
standard Roses planted last Easter. All 
have been in bloom. Will you tell me the 
best time to prune them? (E. Stopps, Es¬ 
sex.) 
We suspect that you have been feeding 
your Reine Marie Henriette until it has 
made too much growth fox the space at com¬ 
mand, and the wood does not ripen properly. 
Of course, during the summer time, the 
greenhouse sjiould be fully ventilated, top 
and bottom every day, so as to keep the Roses 
from getting unduly elongated and to en¬ 
courage ripening of the wood in autumn. 
On the other hand, it may have been a case 
of bad pruning. This Rose is a Hybrid Tea, 
which grows to a considerable height under 
natural conditions, and to get plenty of 
Roses from it the long stems should be laid 
in full length and nothing cut away except, 
perhaps, the tips of unripened wood. If 
there are numerous stems and some of the 
foliage shades the rest, then you may be 
sure that the wood is not ripening properly, 
or if you out back any of the stems you 
would also reduce the chances of getting 
Roses. The best plan is to cut away entirely 
those stems that are two years old or more, 
arid tie in a sufficient number of young stems 
their full length. Any more than this should 
be cut away to the base. We think if you 
observe this thinning instead of pruning, 
and also give abundant ventilation during 
summer, you should have no difficulty in 
getting plenty of bloom from that variety. 
It is not usually planted in a greenhouse, 
and succeeds best on walls, though it may 
also be used for-covering pillars, arches and 
pergolas. The proper pruning of the stan¬ 
dard Roses you planted at Easter time de¬ 
pends largely upon what class they belong 
to. Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas 
should be pruned during the second fort¬ 
night of March. If you have any Teas they 
should be pruned during the first fortnight 
of Apnil. They are more tender than the 
two previous classes, so that it is the best 
to delay .pruning them until the advance of 
spring, because there is a more reasonable 
chance of mild weather when the plants 
come into leaf. 
2367. Treatment of Roses. 
I 'have some dwarf Roses which for three 
years gave a poor show. This summer I 
treated them to a Little native guano. The 
old stems, about 2ft. high, put forth new 
short shoots and two or three entirely new 
shoots sprang up vigorously. They are now 
about 5fit. long. How should I treat them 
for next year ? The sorts are Jean Liabaud, 
Victor Verdier, Mrs. J. Laing, Marie Fin¬ 
ger, Frau Karl Druschki, Mens. Boncenne, 
and other FI.P.’s-. (Baynton-Taylor, Soms.) 
All of the Roses you mention are Hybrid 
Perpetuals, and may be pruned during the 
second fortnight of March. Some of them 
are rather out of date, and not very much 
grown, and they are not all of equal 
strength. Some of them take longer to get 
established than others, but it is just pos¬ 
sible that you planted them without first 
having the ground properly trenched and 
manured. 0n> the other hand, it might have 
been due to the soil being naturally poor. 
In hard ground it takes longer for the roots 
to penetrate the soil and get established, but 
having been partly established the feeding 
with native guano would account for the 
great increase in growth. In the case of 
Jean Liabaud, the strong stems which come 
up from the base may be cut back to Sin. 
from the ground; Victor Verdier, pn. to 
6in.; Mrs. J. Laing, 8in. ; Marie Finger.and 
Mons.. Boncenne, 6in. to Sin.; and Frau Karl 
Druschki 121m., being a strong grower. Some 
of the stems that were pruned last spring 
may be left if they are still healthy and 
strong, and you have room for them. In the 
case of all of them the stronger side shoots 
of these old stems should be cut back to 3m. 
or 4dn. All the slender weak growths should 
be entirely cut away and, of course,, dead 
wood. You should also bear in mind, when 
any thinning is required, to cut out the 
oldest stems, anything over two years. There 
is now good hope of your Roses, since they 
have commenced to send up good shoots from 
the base, and this should be encouraged. 
During winter liquid manure would be of 
advantage to established Roses, and in 
spring you can commence giving native 
guano or any other fertilised which you may 
have. 
TREES AND SHRUBS . 
2368. Name and Habit of Shrub. 
M. B., Wexford, would be obliged if you 
could say the name and habit of enclosed 
shrub in The Gardening World. 
The shrub you sent is a variety of Pet- 
neittya mueronatia, and apparently trie variety 
named carnea lilacina. The plant belongs 
to the Heath family and forms a close, 
bushy evergreen, varying from iff. to 3ft. 
in height, according to the age of the plant. 
It Likes peaty soil, being one of the Ameri¬ 
can plants, but is not so particular as some 
of them, and if your garden soil is of a 
Light and friable character it would grow in 
that. Nevertheless, a little peat in the soil 
would improve it, and if your soil is heavy 
a considerable quantity of peat or leaf mould 
would make it suitable for this shrub. 
2369. Manure for Clematis. 
Will you oblige by saying what is the best 
manure for Clematis? Is ordinary. stable 
manure beneficial or otherwise? (John C. 
Barlow, Yorks.) 
