761 
THE GARDENING WORLD , 
November 30, 1907. 
dils to perfection in a cold frame, bait dur¬ 
ing mild, open weather, you must ventilate 
freely, to prevent the foliage from getting 
drawn. If you require any of the plants 
to btloom earlier, you could put them in a 
heated house, if you have one, or into a 
dwelling-room window facing the south, if 
possible. This will make them advance 
more rapidly than they would do in a frame, 
but the leaves are liable to get somewhat 
drawn unless the window is opened partly to 
ventilate the house when the weather gets 
warmer. If it continues dry while the plants 
are ini the frame, they may require water 
several times before spring, but that is a 
matter for observation. In a dwelling-room, 
if a fire is kept burning, they will require 
frequent watering, as Daffodils like plenty 
of moisture when growing. 
FLOWER GARDEN . 
2402. Trenching: a Herbaceous Border. 
I want to trench a border which is getting 
worn out and very hard, but I find the White 
Lily is in. full growth. Several other bul¬ 
bous plants are in the same condition, but 
I could not do the work earlier because some 
of the perennial Asters were still flowering 
till quite recently. The bulbs have been 
established for many years. Will it hurt 
them if I lift them with a good ball of soil 
and lay them on one 9 ide till the trenching 
is completed. The soil is very heavy, and 
I want to lighten it. Please say what would 
be the best way to do it. (T. Horneli., 
Lancs.) 
Lift tihe Lily bulbs with plenty of soil 
attached to the roots, if possible, and lay 
them on some spare piece of ground. If the 
soil falls away from the roots you must 
cover them up with soil and lay a mat or 
two over the plants till the work is com¬ 
pleted. Some of the other bulbs are more 
likely to bdl-d the soil than the Lily, so that 
you should have no difficulty with them. 
In re-planting tihe other plants in the border 
select pieces from the outside of the clumps 
where the stems will be younger and more 
vigorous. Wlhien you| re-plant the bulbs, 
make the soil quite firm about them, and be 
careful not to make the clumps too bag for 
the space allowed them, but leave room for 
increase. A variety of material may be used 
for lightening the soil of the border, such 
as rank farmyard manure, which may be 
placed well down so that the bulbs and other 
plants may be put back without coming into 
contact with this rank manure. On the top 
spit you could use the old manure from 
Melon and Cucumber beds, and if leaves 
were used for mixing with the manure it 
will, be al.l the better for lightening the 
border. Leaf mould may also be used in 
quantitv, and even sand. At some places 
there is frequently a heap of old no':'- 
bench soil or old leaf soil that has become 
too much rotted, and such could be used 
liberally on the border with good effect. 
HEDGES. 
2403. Harbour for Cats. 
I have a Golden Privet hedge along the 
front of the garden, but it is very open at 
the foot, and the cats take up their quarters 
there and tread down the plants in the bor¬ 
der or tear them to pieces. If I plant young 
Privets, will that fill up the gaps and stop 
the cats? (James Potter, Oxon.) 
To make a close hedge you should cut 
down the old one within 12,in. of the ground 
and get strong young plants to fill up the 
gaps. While the hedge is dwarf there 
would be Little to harbour the cats. The old 
hedge would soon reach its present height 
again, but you must regulate it by the 
growth of the plants newly put in. Both of 
them should be stopped when they have made 
i2.in. of growth, and that will make them 
bushy. The reason why we advise this plan 
is because young Privets would not come to 
much planted beneath the old hedge, as .he 
light would be obstructed and the soil 
would be kept too diry. The base of tihe 
hedge should be allowed to grow much wider 
than the top for the sake of the light. 
ROSES . 
2404. Climbing: Rose in Window. 
Can you please tell me if a climbing Rose 
can be grown in. a window box, and if so, 
what wall happen after it gets established 
and begins to grow strongly? Will it 
darken the window in summer when it sends 
up strong, leafy shoots? (C. Woodward, 
Lines.) 
There is no reason why you should not be 
able to grow a climbing Rose in a window 
box if you give it plenty of root room. The 
box should be at least ift. deep and a little 
wider than 'the window sill if that is a nar¬ 
row one. You will require some support to 
which to fasten the stems, and a wire arch 
to suit the size of the window would be a 
good means of training the Roses so as to 
keep it tidy. Another plan is to fix up a 
set of wires at regular intervals round the 
sides of the window. To these wires or to 
the wire arch you can tie in the shoots be¬ 
fore they get lengthy enough to darken the 
windows. Seme of the shoots might be 
trained round the outside of the window. 
If you do this the window should practi¬ 
cally be in a framework of Roses. After the 
plant gets established give an annual top 
dressing of equal parts of good soil and 
well rotted cow manure. An abundance of 
water would be necessary during the grow¬ 
ing season to keep the plant growing 
vigorously. We presume the Rose will soon 
find its own level so to speak, and not grow 
so strongly as it would if planted in the 
open ground. You can also reduce it in 
winter or immediately after it has finished 
flowering by cutting out the old stems which 
have flowered and training in the young 
ones. Weak shoots not likely to flower may 
be removed. 
2405. Roses for a New Border. 
I have enclosed a sketch of a new Rose 
border I am making, and I should like your 
opinion concerning what sorts to grow on the 
pillars from the edge of the walk joining the 
upright ones. I may say the upright ones 
are already filled. I thought of planting 
Wiichu.raiana, leaving out Dorothy Perkins 
and Lady Gay which I already have on the 
upright pillars, but my employer thinks that 
owing to its creeping habit it will not do 
very well. What would you suggest in t * 1 
case? The soil here is very heavy^ and we 
have a lot of rain. I intend planting be¬ 
tween each pillar dwarf Roses. I require 
seven. Would any of the following need 
altering :—Adelaide Moulle, Alexander Tri- 
miouillet, Edmund Proust, Ferdinand Rous¬ 
sel, Leontine Gervais, Paul Transon, Rene 
Andre? Could you explain why some nur¬ 
sery-men classify Dorothy Perkins and Lady 
Gay amongst the Polyantlha section? (J. H. 
R., Scotland.) 
Rosa w-iohuraiana itself is a single white 
Rose, but although it naturally creeps along 
the ground if left without support it is, 
nevertheless, an excellent Rose grown on a 
p-illar, a-s a standard, on arches and pergolas. 
The standards in this class are, of course, 
weening Roses. If you would prefer a 
double one belonging to that same’ section 
yo-u could use Alberic Bai-b-ier (creamy 
white), or Gardenia (double bright yellow). 
Indeed, all of these three might be planted 
as pillars along the edge of that path. You 
then make an enquiry about dwarf Roses, 
and name seven. Every one of those you 
name belongs to the W'icfouraiana section, 
and therefore are not dwarf Roses, unless 
you allow thern to creep along the ground. 
As your letter would seem to indicate that 
you want dwarf Roses we suggest a number 
of dwarf Polyantlha Roses which would an-' 
swer the purpose, namely, Gloire des Polyan- 
tha, Cecil, Brunner, Petit Constant, Eugenie 
Lamesch, Per.le -d'Or, Mme. N. Levavasseur, 
and Mignonette. All of these are beautiful 
Polyantiha Roses of different colours and 
dwarf. Should you require large blooms on 
dwarf plants you might get Caroline Testout, 
La France, Mrs, W. J. Grant, and Liberty, 
all of which are Hybrid Teas'; and Mrs. 
John Laing, Fiislher Holmes, a_n-d Dup-uy Ja- 
main, which are Hybrid Perpetuafs. You 
will thus see we have given you two sets of 
seven eaoh if you really mean dwarf Roses 
to plant between the pillars. We presume 
that some mistake had been made about 
Dorothy Perkins and Lady Gay when they 
were first sent out. Lady Gay is described 
as a seedling from Cr-imson Rambler, and if 
so the pollen of Wiichuxa-iana had been used. 
The two are really hybrid Wiichuraiana 
Roses. Some Rosarians are, of the belief 
that Cr-imson Rambler itself must -have been 
derived from W-ichuraiana as one of the 
parents. It certainly comes nearest to the 
Polyantha Rose in its foliage. The others 
are nearer Wiahuraiana. 
2405. Crimson Rambler Overgrown. 
We have a fine Crimson Rambler on an 
arch, but it has grown too large and the 
shoots are in the way. We kept tying them 
in till: they are a-lil anyhow. What is the 
best thing to do with them, and can they be 
pruned now? (J. S., Hants.) 
You. can certainly prune this Rose now, 
but it could have been done with advantage 
-immediately after the old stems had done 
flowering. Thinning rather than pruning is 
the best term to apply to this class of Roses. 
Begin by cutting out the very oldes-t stems 
that have flowered, and if you still have too 
many for the space cut out the weak ones. 
You may remember, however, that the lower 
parts of such ta.Ll growing plants are liable 
to get bare of foliage. 1 -t would be well, 
therefore, to leave some of the shorter shoots 
to tie over the base of the stems of the very 
long ones for the purpose of hiding' the 
stems and getting some flowers low down. 
Next year, after the plant has ceased bloom¬ 
ing, you can cut out the old stems and give 
the young ones- a better chance of making 
good growth and ripen,i-n-g up their stems 
before winter. 
TREES AND SHRUBS . 
2407. Evergreen and Deciduous 
Shrubs. 
Please name twelve to twenty shrubs that 
would be likely to succeed in this district. 
I would like some of them to be evergreens 
of bushy ihaibiit. What time should they be 
planted -to give them the best chance of 
getting established? (R. D., Sutherland.) 
Deciduous shrubs that should succeed well 
with you are Spiraea salicifolia, S. discolor 
(often named ariaefol-ia), S. japonica alba, 
R.i-bes sanguineum, Phiiladel-phus coronarius, 
Lilac, Azalea pon-tica, and Lon.ioera tatarica. 
Of course you can get several varieties of 
most of the above. Evergreen shrubs tha-t 
wo-ul-d live with you are Pieris flor-ibun-da 
(often named An-dromeda), Rhododendron 
hirsutum, R. ferrug.ineum, Cotoneaster 
Simonsi-i, Berberis Aquifolium, Pernettva 
mucromata, and Portugal Laurel, Hol-ly Sil¬ 
ver Queen, Holly Hadgim-sdd, Daphne pon- 
tica, and Buxus semperwirens a-ureo-mar- 
ginata. We think also that Olearia Haastii 
would succeed w-itih you, although we have 
not seen it so far nor-t-h. You should plan-t 
them at once or leave it till the end of Feb¬ 
ruary or beginning of March. 
