790 
TUB gardening world 
December 14, 1907. 
2443. Tall Roses for Open Situation. 
My garden is rather windy, but I can find 
sheltered spots, and would like to grow some 
tall-growing Roses. Do you think I could 
grow W. A. Richardson as a standard in 
front of the house, which faces south? If 
not, how do you recommend me to grow it ? 
Are 'there any others that would do as well 
there? (M. Wilson, Cheshire.) 
If the garden is particularly windy, we 
should prefer Roses in a variety of other 
forms rather than a standard. It could, no 
doubt, be grown in such a situation by se¬ 
curing it to a strong staKe. We think, how¬ 
ever, it would be more easily kept in posi¬ 
tion by training it on a trellis or as a climb¬ 
ing Rose upon a number of stakes ox frame¬ 
work constructed of wooden laths to which 
the stems could be tied. By this means it 
would be easier to support the plant than 
to keep up a standard tied at one or two 
places to a single stake and surmounted by 
a large head. There are several other Roses 
which will grow under those conditions, so 
that if you mate a trellis on either side of 
the pathway to the house you could train 
them and be fairly successful. Varieties that 
we should recommend are Dorothy Perkins, 
Crimson Rambler, and The Garland or 
Zephirine Drouhin. 
TREES AND SHRUBS . 
2444. Increasing Lavender and Rose¬ 
mary. 
I have a small hush of Lavender and an¬ 
other of Rosemary I would like to increase. 
What is the best way to do this and the most 
suitable time I have no greenhouse. (J. S., 
Beds.) 
Both of these plants belong to the same 
family as the Mint, and though shrubby, 
they are easy to propagate by means of seeds, 
cuttings and layers. The seeds could, of 
course, be sown some time in March in a cold 
frame or in the open air in April. Layer¬ 
ing may be accomplished in spring, and 
little more is necessary than simply to bend 
down the shoots to he layered and cover them 
with a few inches of soil, just leaving the 
tops peering through the soil. The Laven¬ 
der at least will toe sufficiently rooted by the 
autumn following to be severed from the 
parent plant and planted where you wish the 
young plants to grow. Cuttings of both of 
them might also be taken some time in July 
or August, according to the stage of growth 
of cuttings. Side shoots 3 in. to 4 in. long 
may be taken off and dibbled into pots of 
light sandy soil. If you have a cold frame, 
they can be placed there, or a hand-light or 
bell-glass will answer the same purpose. 
Rooted plants may be kept in a frame and 
planted out in spring. If you have a narrow 
border in front of a slightly shaded wall, 
you could take off cuttings about 6 in. long 
and insert them in that position. They will 
root if you take care to see that they do not 
get dry, and at the same time do not deluge 
them. 
2445. Making 1 a Pergola. 
What is the best way to set about making 
a pergola, and what plants would you recom¬ 
mend for covering it I have a space about 
25 ft. long and 8 ft. wide where I intend 
making it. How wide apart should the up¬ 
rights be? (H. Long, Sussex.) 
Get some strong posts of any kind of wood, 
but Larch and Oak will last as long as any. 
The strong ones may be placed 6 ft. apart, 
and holes 2ft. in depth should be made to 
receive them. When these posts are in posi¬ 
tion the soil should be beaten firm with a 
heavy log of wood. The most useful 
implement for this work being a heavy 
piece of wood about 25 ft. long, with 
a cross-bar or handle on the top of it for 
lifting it and letting it fall on the soil to 
be firmed. If you wish the sides of the 
pergola to be close, then it will be necessary 
to put one or three posts of a more slender 
character between the strong uprights. On 
the other 'hand, if you wish to have vistas 
or open prospects from any side of the per¬ 
gola a fairly open space should be left be¬ 
tween these uprights. The top of the per¬ 
gola may consist of crosspieces of any form 
securely fastened to bars running from one 
pole to the other along the top. These longi¬ 
tudinal bars ■ should, of course, be fairly 
strong, as they will have to support a va¬ 
riety of crosspieces, and those again will 
have to support the climbers. To cover the 
upright posts you may use a considerable 
number of Roses, such as Lady Gay, Doro¬ 
thy Perkins, Crimson Rambler, Gloire de 
Dijon, Blush Rambler, Rosa mosohata bru- 
nonis and R. multiflora. There are various 
other highly suitable plants for covering the 
numerous pillars along the sides, namely, 
the Wineberxy, Loganberry, cut-leaved 
Bramble, Jasminum fruticans, J. nudiflorum, 
Clematis Jackmanii and Ceanothus Gloire de 
Versailles. Some of these will be capable of 
growing over the top of the pergola, and may 
be so employed, namely, the common Wis¬ 
taria, the fine Aristolochia Sipho, Lonicera 
japonica, Ampelopsis Veitchi, the common 
Honeysuckle, Polygonum baldschuanicum, 
Clematis Vitalba, C. patens and the common 
White Jasmine. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
2446. Propagating' Early Flowering 
Chrysanthemums. 
Kindly tell me when and how to take 
Chrysanthemum cuttings, especially the sum¬ 
mer flowering kinds. (R. S. T., Essex.) 
Early flowering Chrysanthemums may be 
propagated in February or March. If you 
have only a cold frame, the best plan would 
be to wait till March, as the cuttings would 
not be so likely to damp off. You do not tell 
us where you have got these Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, whether they are in pots or out of 
doors. If they are in pots they should, of 
course, have been cut down by this time and 
stood in cold frames. In the case of plants 
out of doors they may be cut down or not as 
the stems will furnish some shelter to the 
young cuttings. If you have any varieties 
that are slow to send up young shoots from 
the base, then the old stems should be cut 
down to encourage it. Take fairly strong 
shoots 3 in. or 4 in. long that come up di¬ 
rectly from the ground. Remove a few of 
the lower leaves and insert the cuttings 
firmly in pots of friable soil, using a fair 
amount of sand in it. As soon as they are 
rooted pot them off singly and top them once 
or twice in the early stages to make them 
bushy. You can plant them out when the 
weather becomes genial some time in April 
or early in May. 
VEGETABLES. 
2447. Celery Clubbing. 
I should be much obliged if you will tell 
me the name and cause of the small white 
insect in the enclosed Celery and what 
remedy I can use for the future? Also, what 
has caused the Celery to become so club- 
rooted ? I may say my land lies in a 'hollow, 
but gets plenty of sun and is well-drained, 
being limestone. I cannot well have land 
fallow. (Silverdale, Lancs.) 
The insects we found on the Celery were 
Poduras or Springtails, which are not the 
cause of the Celery getting into a bad condi¬ 
tion, but are present chiefly to feed upon the 
soft decaying tissues. The clubbing of the 
Celery was due to some check, thus causing 
the plants to throw up their flower stem. It 
is not really a disease, but the failure of the 
Celery is due to some check to growth, and 
later on, the plants having made a fresh 
start, cause the flower stem to spring up. 
This often happens in biennial plants like 
Celery. We cannot say whether you nave 
knowingly given any check to the Celery 
while it was making its growth, but at the 
same time the plants which have behaved in 
this way may not be numerous. Judging 
from the samples you sent us the soil is very 
heavy, and when wet it becomes sticky. In 
such a case you should think out what piece 
of ground you are going to use for Celery 
in the following season and have this pro¬ 
perly worked by laying it up in ridges so 
as to expose it to frost during the winter. 
This will crumble it down and put it in 
better condition for the growth of Celery. 
On the other hand, you should endeavour to 
keep the Celery growing from the time it 
germinates until it is finally earthed up. 
You can do this by shifting on whenever this 
becomes necessary, not allowing the seed¬ 
lings to starve in boxes before they are 
planted out. Then during dry weather you 
should give a heavy watering now and again 
to keep the plants moving. Under the con¬ 
ditions we think we should not earth up 
the Celery until well into October. By that 
time the plants will be fully grown, and all 
that you would have to do would be to tie 
up each stick of Celery with a piece of mat¬ 
ting just under the blade of leaves. Then 
when some soil is broken down into the 
trenches for the purpose of earthing up, the 
operator should see that the matting holds 
the sticks quite tight or else he can take the 
stick in the left hand to prevent soil from 
getting into the heart ot it, while the soil 
is placed up against it with the right hand. 
We think if you adopt this plan of earthing 
up the Celery after it has completed-growth 
and toy keeping it moving previous to that 
you should not have the same trouble next 
year, unless there is something really wrong 
with the seeds, and we hardly think this is 
likely. To clean your soil of unnecessary or 
even troublesome insects you should give it 
a good dressing of gas lime at the time of 
trenching or digging, and this should at 
least be two months prior to the time of 
planting the Celery. There is no necessity 
for letting the land lie fallow. The new 
remedy, Vaporite, might very well be tried 
to get rid of insects if they are very numer¬ 
ous. The decayed portion in some of these 
stems is probably due to damage by some 
means or other earlier in the season. 
FRUIT. 
2448. Pruning- an Old Pear Tree. 
I have an old Pear tree at the bottom of 
the garden that bore only a few fruits this 
year. It is about 18 ft. high and has some 
dead shoots on it. Does it require pruning 
and what is the best time to do it? (A.H.D., 
Staffs.) 
Old Pear trees are better for a little prun¬ 
ing or regulation now and again. Standards 
do not require the same amount of .attention 
as pyramids to keep them in good form, but 
they are liable to get crowded in places and 
occasionally branches die. Your best plan, 
therefore, is to go over the trees and to thin 
out some of the worst shoots or branches 
where the tree is in any wa)' crowded. If 
any branches have made long shoots, giving 
the tree an irregular ■ outline, such shoots 
should toe shortened back accordingly. As a 
rule, however, some young wood upon these 
old trees is a good sign, and except to keep 
the tree in outline they need not be shortened. 
You can do this any time now as the leaves 
are off, but it had better be done by the end 
of February. All dead pieces should, of 
course, be cut back to live wood. 
2449. Apples and Pears for a New 
Garden. 
I have made a new garden on the top of a 
reservoir and the depth of the soil is 3 ft. 
