Address : The Editor, The Gardening 
World, 3 1 and 38, Shoe Lane, London, E.C. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may 
cover any branch of gardening. Questions 
should be as brief as possible and written on 
one side of the paper only; a separate sheet 
of paper should be used for each question. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans .—Gardeners who would make 
the best use of this column are invited to 
prepare and forward to us a rough outline 
drawing or plan-of their gardens, indicating 
the position of beds and lawns, the charac- 
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. 
2456. Name and Treatment of Plant. 
I have taken in your paper for two years, 
so I ask you through your paper to tell me 
the name and cultivation of the enclosed, 
which is part of the root and some growth. 
It has an abundance of roots, which will 
grow if broken off like the piece I sent you. 
I am told the flowers are somewhat like 
Spiraea and are yellow and very sweet 
scented. I have a small'greenhouse, and I 
keep it at 60 degs. I have cut down the old 
plant to its base, but it has started again 
with very strong growth. (F. Hodge, Sur¬ 
rey.) 
The specimens you sent us are those of 
Boussingaultia baselloides, a greenhouse 
climber, so that you have made a mistake by 
cutting it down if you want it to flower. The 
shoots that are coming up now should be 
trained up the roof of the house when they 
get long enough. If the plant gets too large 
for you at any time, as it is very likely to 
do in a small greenhouse, you will have to 
cut out some of the shoots down to the base, 
then cut away some of the small side shoots 
if they are too much crowded, and train in 
the main stems, or as many of them as you 
can afford space for at their full length. 
The flowers are about the size of those of a 
Spiraea, being small, pale yellow, and 
scented like Hawthorn. They bloom in late 
autumn and early winter. We cannot under¬ 
stand why you keep your greenhouse at 60 
degs. in winter, as that is’ sufficient for a 
stove. If you wish the plants merely to rest 
till spring 40 degs. at night would be quite 
high enough, and if you have flowering 
plants like Chinese Primroses in bloom 50 
degs. would be quite sufficient. A light rich 
soil is the best for this plant, and it should 
have the sunniest position in the greenhouse 
to make it ripen its wood and flower. See 
that the superfluous water can readily get 
away from the roots. Give a fair supply of 
water in summer and about the middle of 
September curtail the supply considerably. 
After it goes out of bloom very little water 
will be required till the end of February,' 
and none at all if it is planted out. 
2457. Carnation Layers in Pots. 
I have about two and a half dozen Carna¬ 
tion layers in pots in a cold greenhouse; 
also, Marechal Niel Rose (in a ^in. pot) 
which has about five weak shoots 7m. or 8in. 
long. Can you kindly tell me how to pre¬ 
serve these through the winter and how often 
they should be watered? I get a lot of tips 
through the medium of The Gardening 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden, orchard, etc. The 
north side of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
flat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be marked. Particulars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
received they will be carefully filed, with 
the name and address of the sender, and 
will be consulted by the Editor whenever an 
enquiry is sent. 
World, and feel I can rely on your advice. 
(W. E. S., Manor Park, Essex.) 
Watering and ventilation will have to be 
your chief care until the middle of March, 
when you can plant the Carnations out of 
doors. We presume they are border varie¬ 
ties. You must keep these as near the glass 
as possible for the sake of light. No heat is 
necessary, as they are hardy. In mild, open 
weather, like the present, you should give 
plenty of ventilation to keep the Carnations 
cool and resting. This ventilation will 
make the plants sturdy and also carry away 
moisture from the atmosphere of the house. 
There is no particular number of times to 
water them, but you should learn to recog¬ 
nise when the soil is getting quite dry and 
brown instead of being dark. Water may 
then be given them to prevent the roots from 
perishing. The number o'f times it will be 
necessary to water also depends upon the 
state of the weather, if it is windy and dry 
the soil in the pots will get dry much 
oftener than during cloudy and rainy 
weather. Much the same applies to Mare¬ 
chal Niel Rose, except that the soil should 
always be kept just sufficiently moist, but 
not soddened. The roots of this will be 
active most of the winter. A cool, dry at¬ 
mosphere is, of course, to its advantage, as 
you do not want it fo commence growing till 
the days lengthen in March. You should 
look through the greenhouse carefully at 
least once a week and give water to those 
plants only which are evidently in want 
of it. 
2458. Edgings for Greenhouse Stag¬ 
ings. 
Would you kindly name some things suit¬ 
able for hanging over the edges of the 
greenhouse shelves? I want to grow them 
in small pots. (M. Ellis, Lines.) 
We presume the greenhouse is a cold one, 
or that you merely keep cut frost. The 
plants at this time should, therefore, be 
resting and growth should only- be made 
after the temperature rises in spring. For 
a greenhouse under such conditions we 
should recommend Tradescantia zebrina, 
Nepeta Glechoma variegata, Fuchsia pro- 
cumbens, Isolepis gracilis, Selaginella 
kraussiana, and Saxifraga sarmentosa. The 
latter should be grown for the sake of- its 
runners, which hang down and last most of 
the year. The Isolepis and the Selaginella 
should be kept in the more shady parts of 
the greenhouse in summer. 
2459. Temperature of Greenhouse. 
I have now got my greenhouse fitted up 
803 
with a heating apparatus. How high should 
I keep the temperature for such plants as 
Geraniums, Marguerites, Ferns, Violets, 
Azaleas, Calceolarias, etc. ? (R. Moore, 
Lancs.) 
With the exception of the Ferns, perhaps, 
a temperature of 40 degs. at night would be 
quite sufficient, as most of those things 
should be resting at present. You cannot 
well give a temperature that will suit the 
requirements of flowering plants at this 
season and at the same time keep plants in 
the house which should be resting. It de¬ 
pends upon the kinds of Ferns as to the tem¬ 
perature most suited to them, but presumably 
they are kinds that suit a greenhouse. Dur¬ 
ing very mild weather, it would do no harm 
if the temperature rises to 43 degs. If you 
require the Violets and Azaleas to flower a 
little earlier you can raise the temperature 
to 45 degs. by the end of Eebruary with a 
rise to 50 degs. during the day. At the 
same time those Calceolarias which do not 
require heat should be placed in the coolest 
part of the house. Heat is injurious to them 
by causing them to grow too large, making 
the leaves thin. 
2460. Treatment of Convolvulus 
mauritanicus. 
I have a plant of Convolvulus mauritani¬ 
cus in a pot, but it shows_no sign of bloom¬ 
ing. How should I treat it during winter? 
At present I have it in a pot, but it looks 
like a hardy plant. Can you say if I am 
correct? (T. Randall, Oxon.) 
The Convolvulus you mention is not quite 
hardy, but can easily be kept in a greenhouse 
from which frost is merely kept out. You 
can either flower it in the pot during sum¬ 
mer or plant it out on the rockery or in a 
border for the summer time where it will 
bloom. It should be lifted again about the 
middle of September and returned to the 
greenhouse. It should have bloomed with 
you in the summer, but it must have been a 
very small plant or it had Seen starved in 
too small a pot, or the soil may require re¬ 
newing. Your best plan would be to repot 
it in March in a compost consisting of two 
parts fibrous loam, one part leaf mould and 
well-decayed cow manure rubbed up fine, and 
sufficient sand to make it porous. The tem¬ 
perature of the house will rise in spring, 
but air on all favourable occasions is bene¬ 
ficial to this plant by preparing it to 
flower. 
2461. Forcing: Deutzia and Chionan- 
thus. 
I am enclosing four branches of plants. 
Please furnish names in next week’s paper 
if possible. Also, will you forward me as 
early as possible The Gardening World 
Pocket Diary for 1908. I enclose P.O. value 
gd. in payment, also coupon signed. If I 
am not troubling you too much, will you in¬ 
form me how to deal with Deutzia gracilis 
in pots? They came from the nursery out 
of pots about two months ago. I potted 
them and have had them in about 50 degs. 
of heat in a greenhouse, but they appear to 
be making very little growth. The lower 
leaves on the stems appear half dead. I 
want them to flower as soon as possible; also 
Chionanthus virginicus in pots. (G., B’pool, 
Lancs.) 
The names of your plants you will find 
under that heading at the end of “ Enquire 
Within.” You will have the Diary sent you 
as soon as it is ready, probably b} 7 the time 
this appears in print. Deutzia gracilis, 
being a shrub and having to make a little 
growth before it flowers, should not be 
forced or hurried too much. We do not 
quite understand whether you mean the last 
year’s leaves on the plant, or whether the 
leaves have been produced since j r ou potted 
the plants. If they are old leaves we should 
have kept the plants out of doors or in some 
cool place until they all fell off the plant. 
