July 6, 1907. 
459 
THE GARDENING WORLD . 
difficult-, but even then it will be different 
from the Rose upon it. 
1979. Rose Leaves Blotched. 
The leaves of several of my Roses (out¬ 
side) are blotched like the enclosed leaf. 
I shall be obliged if you will kindly say 
the cause and what to do to prevent it. The 
trees are very vigorous and do well except 
for this. (Francis Farrar, Isle of Wight.) 
The leaf sent us was affected with the 
Rose leaf black blotch caused by the fungus 
Actinonema Rosae. It is fairly frequent 
amongst Roses, but beyond disfiguring the 
foliage does not as a rule do very much 
harm, and many Rosarians take no notice 
of it. If getting too plentiful the best plan 
would be to burn the worst of the leaves 
and then spray the remainder with a dilute 
solution of copper sulphate, otherwise 
known as Bordeaux mixture. This spray 
will not actually cure the leaves nor kill 
the fungus already in them, but will pre¬ 
vent it from spreading on to healthy leaves. 
You may repeat the application at intervals 
of ten days if it still prevails as the rain 
will wash off the fungus. 
1980. Flower Buds Curling Up. 
I have a bed of a dozen Rose trees which 
I planted last November. The buds of three 
of them have now curled up and nearly all 
fallen off. I should be pleased if you could 
fell me what is the matter with them and 
also what to do with them. Their names 
are Mme. Vermorel, Maman Cochet and An¬ 
toine Marie. I have enclosed some of the 
foliage. (Bath, Wilts.) 
The leaves you sent us were quite healthy. 
The flower bud seemed to have met with an 
accident due to outside injury. That was 
the cause of the Rose growing all to one 
side. We carefully opened the flower and 
found that the injury did not go right to 
the centre. It may, therefore, have been 
due to the lashing of the flower buds against 
something by the wind, or what is just as 
likely the buds were penetrated by some in- 
sect in the early stages of their growth. 
The damage would therefore prevent the 
bud from growing equally. There were 
many greenfly on the specimen sent, and 
may have been sufficient to cause the damage 
some weeks ago. The only thing you can do 
is to clean them by using some insecticide 
such as strong soap solution, to which some 
tobacco water is added, or get some of the 
useful preparations advertised in our 
columns. If any of the shoots are lashing 
against others, stake them even if it is only 
temporarily. Your plants may not yet be 
quite strong, seeing that they were only 
planted in November, but as so many people 
this year really have a good display the 
failure of yours cannot be due to that unless 
they were badly treated in the process of 
transplanting. We should certainly clear 
them of aphides. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
1981. Climber for North Aspect. 
I am almost at my wits’ end trying to get 
a climber for my arch. I have tried several 
things, but nothing as yet has succeeded. It 
is a north aspect. Do you think a Peri- 
ploca graeca would succeed? As a sub¬ 
scriber of your valuable journal, I ask you 
as I am anxious to get it covered with some¬ 
thing that blooms with plenty of foliage as 
well. If it will not do, please tell me what 
would. (Puzzled, Lancashire.) 
We are afraid you are working under dif¬ 
ficulties in trying to get a climber to flower 
well on a north aspect in your smoky dis¬ 
trict. We do not think that a Periploca 
would succeed if more common things have 
failed. Very few things will flower well 
on a north aspect, as they all require sun¬ 
shine. We think it is just possible that you 
did not prepare the site for the climber. 
Whether the soil is good or not you should 
take it out to the depth of 2 ^ ft. and about 
as wide. If the soil is good you can then 
mix it with some fresh material and return 
it after putting some brickbats in the bottom 
for drainage. If the soil is altogether bad, 
then the hole must be filled up -with good 
soil obtained from elsewhere. Climbers are 
frequently poked into a small hole -without 
any preparation of the soil, which is usu¬ 
ally so hard that the roots cannot penetrate 
it. Two very good climbers that should 
give you foliage at least are the white Jas- 
minum officinale and Hoheysuckle. A her¬ 
baceous plant that dies down annually is 
Polygonum baldschuanicum with pinkish 
white flowers in great^ abundance. A very 
fine climber, the beauty of which consists 
chiefly of leaves, is Aristolochia Sipho, 
which succeeds admirably in a shady situa¬ 
tion near London, but so far as we are 
aware has not yet flowered. Very few things 
will flower on a northern aspect. If you 
succeed in getting this to grow, we think 
it will please you for covering the arch, 
even although it does not produce any 
flowers. 
1982. Management of Japanese 
Dwarf Trees. 
Could you oblige with a few hints in 
next issue of The Gardening World on the 
management of Japanese dwarf trees? (J. 
C., Devon.) 
The management of Japanese dwarf trees 
consists. chiefly in giving them water when¬ 
ever they require it during the growing 
period, keeping them somewhat drier in win¬ 
ter and keeping them properly aired and ex¬ 
posed to light. Those which are evergreen 
must never be allowed to get dry nor suffer 
for the want of light and air during winter. 
They would succeed in a greenhouse even al¬ 
though there is no heat. The chief danger 
in some cases would be the breaking of the 
ornamental pots if they happened to get 
frozen. They do not require repotting as 
that might cause them to make too vigorous 
growth, thus spoiling their dwarf habit. In 
the case of deciduous trees, such as Maples, 
Oaks and Larches, they should receive simi¬ 
lar treatment to what you would give Roses 
or hardy shrubs. During winter they would 
scarcely require any water if plunged out 
of doors amongst ashes or amongst dried 
Bracken. If you keep them in a greenhouse 
it would be necessary to see that the soil in 
the pots does not get dust dry, otherwise 
man}' of the roots will get killed. If places 
on the plant become bare and you can get 
shoots to tie down in such places, that would 
improve the appearance of the plants. 
Pruning would scarcely ever be necessary. 
1983. Propagation of Lupimis ar- 
boreus. 
I have a yellow tree Lupin (Lupinus ar- 
boreus luteus), which, as it is such a clear 
yellow, I am anxious to increase. I have 
been told to take cuttings as that is the best 
method of propagating it. If so, when 
could they be taken and what treatment do 
they require? (A. C. D., Kent.) 
Take cuttings of half-ripened wood of 
moderately strong shoots any time in July 
or August and insert them firmly in pots of 
very sandy soil. Stand these pots in a cold 
frame or cover them with a hand-light or 
bell-glass. Shade the glass during very 
bright sunshine for some time until the cut¬ 
tings commence to root, then give them more 
ventilation. You should also be able to pro¬ 
pagate this plant by layering the shoots 
like a Carnation, and if your plant ripens 
seeds you could save and sow them, although 
they would not likely all come true. Un¬ 
less your plant is a darker yellow than the 
ordinary form the name luteus would be 
superfluous, as the wild plant has pale yel¬ 
low flowers. Cuttings and layers are the 
only way df preserving the plant true to 
name if it really is a specially good variety. 
1984. Vitis inconstans and V. quin- 
quefolia. 
Will you kindly reply to the following : 
What are the names of the creepers from 
which the enclosed leaves have been taken ? 
Nos. 1 and 2 I bought for Virginia 
Creepers. No. 1 grows very close, but not 
very high. No. 2 is more open, but is 
grown about 7 ft. high. Nos. 3 and 4 are 
also stated to be Virginian Creepers. No. 3 
has been taken from a plant in a pot and 
No. 4 is growing up a wall. Which is the 
Vitis inconstans (Ampelopsis Veitchii) and 
which is the Vitis quinquefolia (Virginia 
Creeper)? (Virginian, Cheshire.) 
Nos. 1, 3 and 4 are Vitis inconstans. No. 
2 is the Virginia Creeper. You have sent 
three forms of leaves, but all of them are 
really obtainable off the same plant accord¬ 
ing to its stage of growth. No. 4 is the 
small leaf, which is usually got on young 
plants in pots, or for a year or two after it 
has-been planted out. No. 1 is the form of 
leaf after it has grown to a large size 
covering the wall of a house. No. 3 may 
occur on any part of a large plant and is 
sometimes rooted as a separate plant and 
sold under the name of Ampelopsis Roylei. 
Quinquefolia means five leaves, or in this 
case leaflets, and that applies to No. 2, the 
Virginia Creeper. 
FRUIT. 
1985. Gooseberries with Growth on 
them. 
I enclose a piece of wood from Gooseberry 
with fungus growth which is killing all my 
trees. I should be glad of information as 
to what it is and how to get rid of it. My 
trees are growing underneath Plum and 
Apple trees in a south-east aspect. (J. Gur¬ 
ney, Hants.) 
It is not exactly a fungus which is grow¬ 
ing on your Gooseberries, but lichen, a sign 
that the plants are not thriving well. Are 
you quite sure that the drainage of the soil 
is good? If it is wet, it should be drained 
in the autumn or winter. You could then 
try something that would start your Goose¬ 
berries into fresh life. At the present time 
you might give them a dressing of nitrate 
of soda at the rate of 1 lb. per rod. When 
digging in the winter time it would also 
be advantageous to give the ground a good 
liming and you might even make up a thin 
wash with the lime and syringe the bushes 
with it to help destroy the lichen. In some 
cases it has been found a good plan to lift 
the bushes and to trench the ground, manur¬ 
ing it at the same time. It may be that 
the soil is very much compacted and possibly 
damp, thus preventing the Gooseberries from 
making good growth. We have thus sug¬ 
gested drainage, nitrate of soda to stimulate 
growth and the transplanting of the bushes 
in order to get the ground trenched. 
1986. Strawberries with Mildew. 
Herewith I beg to send three Strawberries 
which appear to be affected by a kind of 
mildew. A large number of the fruits on 
rnv plants are similar to these, and I should 
be obliged if you could tell me the cause of 
the trouble and whether there is any cure 
for it. (Ernest J. Elford, Essex.) 
The fruits you sent were affected with the 
Strawberry mildew (Sphaerotheca Castag- 
nei). There is no cure when the fruit once 
gets covered with the fine web of threads 
known as mildew. Prevention is the plan 
to pursue. In the case of all plants you 
intend to preserve for another year you 
should dust the leaves on both sides with 
flowers of sulphur and quicklime. Next 
year before the flowers on your pot plants 
