460 
July 6, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
expand you should repeat the application of 
the above remedy at intervals of eight days. 
By this means you will check the fungus 
and prevent it from getting on to the fruit 
even should it get more or less established 
in the leaves. You should also maintain a 
dry atmosphere in the house during the 
ripening period of the fruits. No doubt, the 
wet, sunless weather has been in favour of 
the fungus for many weeks past. 
GARDEN ENEMIES. 
1987. Live Object on Euonymus. 
The enclosed object striped with yellow I 
found hanging on a Euonymus. It seems 
alive and looks very much like a wasp, but 
it has neither wings nor legs. Can you tell 
me what it is and if harmful. If so, how 
ran I get rid of it ? The leaves of some of 
the shoots are much eaten, but it does not 
seem to have any head or mouth. (S. S. D., 
Yorks.) 
The specimen was the pupa or resting 
stage of the Gooseberry Moth (Abraxas gros- 
sulariata). The eggs of this moth are laid 
upon various bushes, including Euonymus 
japonicus, the Gooseberry and Currants, 
during the autumn, say some time in Sep¬ 
tember. The small caterpillars that are 
hatched out feed for a time on the foliage 
and then go into hiding somewhere amongst 
leaves on or near the bushes, remaining here 
until next spring ready to commence feed¬ 
ing again when the leaves expand in spring. 
Even then the caterpillars take some time to 
reach their full size as they may be found 
during March, April and May feeding. The 
caterpillar is rather conspicuous if you make 
close observations, being variegated with 
black and orange spots and pale lines. By 
going over the bushes at intervals you would 
be most likely to discover all the caterpillars 
that are feeding and have them picked off. 
Those that escape would, of course, pass 
into the pupa stage like that you sent. The 
perfect moth comes out during July or Au¬ 
gust, and may be found flying about in a 
listless manner according to the habit of 
this moth. It is white and beautifully 
spotted with black and orange. You have 
thus three stages of the creature which you 
may attack and thus prevent your bushes 
from being eaten. 
1988. Apple Buds and Leaves Drop¬ 
ping. 
I should be much obliged if you would 
tell me what is wrong with my Apple trees, 
that they go like the enclosed and the 
remedy. (Fred Stuart Harris, Norfolk.) 
Your Apple tree has been attacked by the 
Apple Sucker (Psylla Mali). Towards 
autumn the insect lays its eggs on the 
shoots of the tree, usually towards the end, 
especially where there is something to hide 
or shelter the eggs. Here they stay till 
spring, and then hatch out into small in¬ 
sects of a dull grey-brown or black colour, 
according to their age. By way of preven¬ 
tion you could cut off the ends of the shoots 
where you find eggs deposited or fixed. 
These twigs which you cut off should, of 
course, be burned to destroy the eggs. If 
on young trees, which you could not afford to 
cut back in that way, a good plan would be 
to scrub the young twigs with a half-worn 
brush dipped in paraffin emulsion. It should 
be properly made so that there would be no 
free paraffin to damage the buds. It has 
been recommended to wash the trees in April 
with strong soapsuds and tobacco water, 
but this insect is very difficult to destroy, 
and the chances are that this washing would 
have little effect upon them. Some washes 
are, however, advertised in our columns 
which have been made up specially for deal¬ 
ing with creatures of this class and similar 
ones. You can thus attack the creature at 
both ends of the season, say, in winter and 
again in spring, just as the buds commence 
to open. The shoots that are so damaged 
as the one you sent might well be cut off and 
burned. Even after reaching us it was still 
swarming with the young Apple Suckers. 
1989. Carrots Turning Yellow. 
Please tell me the cause of my Carrots 
looking so bad and yellow. Ten days ago 
they looked very green and promising. Now 
they look very yellow and withering. I 
shall be glad to know the cause, if there is 
help, or do you think they will get over it ? 
(Cottage Garden, Essex.) 
Your Carrots have been attacked by 
aphides which swarm on the leaves affected 
very badly. Some of the older ones are, in¬ 
deed, white with the cast-off skins of the 
aphides. We think it is still possible to 
save the most of your Carrots by attacking 
the aphides vigorously. This can be done 
by syringing with strong soapsuds_, together 
with a pint of tobacco water to the gallon 
of soapsuds. There are some excellent spe¬ 
cifics for aphides, such as Abol, Mo-Effic, 
etc., such as you will often find mentioned 
in our pages. If you succeed in arresting 
the multiplication of the aphides your Car¬ 
rots will commence growing again. See that 
they are kept thoroughly clear of weeds and 
properly thinned. This will assist you in 
getting rid of the aphides by leaving little 
or no shelter fox them. 
1990. Cabbage Maggots. 
Will you kindly give me the following 
information ? I have a plot of Cabbages 
being taken off by maggots at the root. Is 
there a remedy for this, please? Will they 
also attack winter Greens that I am now 
transplanting? If so, what can I do to pre¬ 
vent them? Will gas lime worked into the 
soil be beneficial? If so, when shall I apply 
it, and how much per rod ? (Beginner, 
Norfolk.) 
From what you say we have no doubt that 
your Cabbages are being injured at the col¬ 
lar of the stem by the maggots of the Cab¬ 
bage Fly (Anthomyia Brassicae). At the 
present time you should soak hot lime for 
twenty-four hours in water and then water 
the base of the stem with the clear liquid 
next day. Some of the very worst of them 
may be dug up and burned, to destroy the 
maggots, if they are so bad as to be hopeless. 
After the Cabbages have been cut, then all 
of the stems should be carefully lifted and 
burned, to destroy any maggots that may 
still be in them. The creature passes into 
the ground to pass its resting stage, and 
you may find the little cases or pupae in the 
soil about the stems when you are lifting 
the Cabbages. Strong brine has also been 
used for watering the base of the stem to 
destroy the maggots. Do not use gas lime 
on soil in which plants are growing. In¬ 
deed, nothing should be sown or planted on 
soil that has been treated with gas lime for 
six or eight weeks afterwards. You can 
only use it, therefore, in the autumn or 
early winter when trenching the ground. 
This act of trenching will get rid of many 
of the flies by burying the pupae too deeply 
in the soil. Two layers of gas lime may be 
used. There is no particular quantity that 
may be employed, but you could use 42 lbs. 
to the rod by putting a layer of lime over 
the first spit, likewise over the succeeding 
spits in trenching. In the case of healthy 
plants that will presently give you Cabbages 
to cut, it would be worth your while to scrape 
away the soil with your fingers and pick 
out as many of the maggots as you can and 
destroy them. -They do attack winter greens. 
SOILS AND MANURES. 
1991. Leather as a Fertiliser. 
I have an opportunity of obtaining a quan¬ 
tity of dust from leather out of a boot 
manufactory. I would be very pleased if 
you would inform me if it is of any use as a 
fertiliser. I may mention that it is of a 
light brown or cinnamon colour, but when 
exposed to the sun and rain it changes to 
black. If it is of any use, I should be 
pleased to knoyr about what the value would 
be. (Leather, Middlesex.) 
Leather is of similar value to hair, fur 
and wool as a fertiliser. It contains nitro¬ 
gen, but in the form of leather would take 
a long time to yield up this nitrogen. You 
speak of leather dust, which would be very 
nearly like the commercial article known as 
leather meal, which is ground up finely on 
purpose as a manure. It is of somewhat 
less manurial value than nitrate of soda 
or ammonium sulphate, even when finely- 
ground and subjected to steaming, so that 
you should get it for a price considerably 
less than nitrate of soda. The average price 
of nitrate of soda would vary from 9s. 6d. 
to 10s. per hundredweight, so that if you 
calculate two-thirds of the value, that would 
be from 6s. 4d. to 6s. 8d. per hundredweight. 
The leather dust not being subjected to any 
special process should be obtainable at some¬ 
what smaller price than the last named. 
1992. Manures for Celery. 
Would you kindly inform me if any of 
these chem-cals are useful for celery :—Sul¬ 
phate of potash, liquid ammonia and nitrate 
of soda. If not, what would be the best 
to bring them on? (Reader of the “G.W.”) 
As a stimulant, either the liquid ammonia 
or nitrate of soda would be more effective 
than the other manure you mention. As the 
liquid ammonia may not be of known 
strength, it might be somewhat risky to use 
unless you dilute it very much. You could, 
however, more safely employ nitrate of soda 
at the rate of i-oz. to the gallon of water. 
Both of these latter manures owe their value 
to the presence of nitrogen, which is a stimu¬ 
lant to vegetative growth. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
1993. Price List of Cacti. 
I shall be much obliged if you would let 
me know through the medium of your paper 
the names and addresses of firms who issue 
price lists of Cacti. I have already tried 
several places, but have been unable to ob¬ 
tain a list of any sort. (W. B., London.) 
No one, as far as we are aware, issues a 
special list of Cacti in this country, though 
several of the nurserymen grow Cacti in 
greater or less numbers. Messrs. Veitch and 
Sons, Ltd., Chelsea, grow a number of Cacti, 
and M. Franz de Laet, Contich, Antwerp, 
Belgium, issues a catalogue almost entirely 
devoted to Cacti and other succulent plants. 
NAMES OF PLANTS. 
(Bell Flower) The Corn Cockle (Lychnis 
Githago). It is wild in cornfields in this 
country. — (Shoe) Campanula glomerata, or 
Clustered Bellflower. — -(Botaniko) 1, Senecio 
sylvatiqcs; 2, Veronica Beccabunga, not 
Myosotis. — (Duke) i, Viburnu. ' Opulus steri- 
lis; 2, Cornus alba sibirica v^riegata; 3, 
Philadelphus grandiflorus; 4, Diervilla 
florida var.; 5, Spiraea media. — (E. L., 
Yorkshire) 1, Iberis correaefolia; 2, Sedum 
reflexum monstrosum; 3, Saxifraga trifur- 
cata; 4, Sedum stoloniferum; 5, Thymus 
Serpyllum lanuginosus; 6, Aubrietia del- 
toidea; 7, Sedum album; 8, Saxifraga tri- 
furcata ceratophylla ; 9, Chrysanthemum coc- 
cineum flore pleno (garden var.), best known 
as Pyrethrum. (W. F. W., Croydon) The 
Rose was too much faded and not in good 
form to determine. We are willing to help 
in naming florists’ flowers, but we do not 
