July 20, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
491 
Gladioli. 
See that Gladioli are tied up as soon as 
the spikes are out of the sheath. Liquid 
manure, either animal or artificial, helps 
the spikes immensely. 
The Fruit Garden. 
The Pear Midge. 
From all accounts the Pear Midge is be¬ 
coming a great scourge in many places, and 
all Pear growers should carefully examine 
their fruit to see if any are affected with the 
pest. The maggot causes the fruits to fall 
very early, and all such fruits should be 
gathered up at once and burnt, or the pest 
will quickly get into the soil. One can 
recognise infested fruits on the trees by their 
more round appearance. The colour, too, 
tends to reddishness, followed by a black 
tinge. Pick off all doubtful fruits and burn 
them. The ground round about Midge af¬ 
fected trees should be given a dose of 
Vaporite. Soot or kainit also has some 
effect. Keep the soil well heed, so as to 
prevent the maggots getting too comfortable. 
Continue to layer Strawberries. This has 
been a shocking season for this fruit, but it 
is hardly likely that we shall have another 
such summer for awhile. 
Currants. 
Thoroughly protect Currant bushes if late 
fruit is wanted. Constantly keep the hoe at 
work, as it will save much watering, apart 
from checking weed growth. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Peas and Beans. 
Peas seem to be doing as well as anything 
this season, and the later batches should be 
mulched if the soil tends to dry out. Beans 
will pay for manure liquid, and so far as 
I have seen the plants need something to 
make them a little happier. They do not 
at all appreciate this weather. The growth 
of all that I have seen is stunted and lacks 
vigour. 
Tying Celery. 
Celery may require tying in some places. 
A little earth drawn in the trenches will do 
no harm if the plants are strong. Keep the 
trenches free from weeds. 
Pinching Tomatos. 
Tomatos must be constantly tied and 
pinched. Outdoor Tomatos look like being 
a failure this season unless we get a quick 
change. 
Get -Shallots up as soon as fit, and dry 
them off in a shed if wet weather continues. 
Early Potatos. . 
All early Potatos should be up by now, 
especially if Greens are planted between 
the rows. 
A sowing of Lettuce may be made. It is 
a good plan to sow where wanted, thinning 
out the plants later. Pricked out Lettuce 
have a poor chance in hot weather. A good 
sowing of Turnips should be made. 
Lose no time in sowing Endive for winter 
use. 
Clear away all rubbish, and use the hoe 
wherever there is a bare spot of soil. 
“ Horti.” 
The Amateur’s Greenhouse. 
Cucumbers in Frames. 
Up till now we have had but a sorry 
time for these, and many young fruits have 
fallen a prey to damp and mildew. When 
the sun resolutely refuses to shine, and the 
days and nights are as cold as those of 
late June and early July were, the cultivator 
is sorely puzzled as to the amount of ventila¬ 
tion to give. A lot of air given lowers the 
temperature beyond safety point, while if 
none is given damping off and mildew are 
sure to appear. The best way is to moderate 
the watering and damping down, doing the 
latter but once a day, and that early in the 
morning. If a nice notch of air is given 
from 9 to 10 o’clock, or from 10 o’clock till 
n, stale moisture will be got rid of and the 
frame and foliage dried somewhat. Then 
should come a light sprinkling with tepid 
water, and the frame should be closed until 
the next morning. Of course, on hot, sunny 
days more air and more damping down 
should be given. The Cucumber is very 
largely composed of water, and cannot well 
have too much in real hot, sunny weather. 
Shading and Ventilating. 
Treatment of the Cucumber frame sug¬ 
gests a few words on shading and ventilat¬ 
ing the greenhouse. Up till the time of 
writing permanent shading has been worse 
than useless, and those growers who forgot 
to put any adhesive material in the shading 
wash have certainly had the laugh so far. 
In such weather as characterised June I 
would nail up or lock up every greenhouse 
blind, for they certainly have not been 
needed. It is useless Shading a house just 
because the season happens to be summer; 
wait until the sun gets well on the house, 
and then, and then only, run the blinds 
down. Ventilation is different. Plants kept 
in a close house in dull weather become 
elongated and weak, therefore air should be 
freely given. If this lowers the temperature 
toe much, keep a little fire going; but it 
should not be overlooked that a low tempera¬ 
ture, with plenty of air, prolongs the flower¬ 
ing period of many plants. 
Fuchsias for Autumn. 
Young plants being grown on for autumn 
blooming should now be finally pinched, 
taking off the tips of the shoots in such a 
manner that a well balanced plant is se¬ 
cured. When starting to grow again after 
pinching, they may be repotted if the soil 
shows signs of exhaustion, or if -large plants 
are wanted. It will, however, generally be 
found that by generous feeding the plants 
will do excellently in their present pots, 
provided these are 5m. or 6in. in diameter. 
Fuchsias should be given the shady side of 
the house, allowing such things as Gera¬ 
niums, Petunias and Begonias to have the 
sunnier positions. Keep the syringe going 
in sunny weather to keep thrips at bay. 
Peaches and Red Spider. 
In spite of the wet weather red spider 
has appeared in several Peach houses, and as 
it is now too late to clear off the pest by 
syringing, other means must be resorted to. 
Of these, the simplest and best that I know 
She as landscape 
Sas&mss. 
The taste of the English in the cul¬ 
tivation of land, and in what is called 
landsca-pe gardening, is unrivalled. 
They have studied nature intently, 
and discovered an exquisite sense of 
her beautiful forms and harmonious 
combinations. These charms, which in 
other countries she lavishes in _wild 
solitudes, are here assembled to round 
the haunts of domestic life. They seem 
to have caught her coy and furtive 
graces, and spread them like witchery 
about their rural abodes. 
Washington Irving. 
is to sprinkle a layer of soot along the bor¬ 
der, on the soil, while the Peaches are 
ripening. Sulphuring the pipes sometimes 
checks the pest, but is not infallible. An¬ 
other plan is to pick off and burn the worst 
affected leaves; but nothing like defoliation 
of the tree should be practised. 
Tomatos in Fruit. 
I have found superphosphate of lime to be 
an excellent food for Tomatos in fruit; it 
may be used either in dry or liquid form. I 
can especially recommend this to amateurs, 
who 1 know, from past experience, can 
rarely believe in the efficacy of a mere pinch 
of artificial manure such as many manufac¬ 
turers advise. However, they may give a 
good teaspoonful of superphosphate to each 
9m. pot twice a week without harm, and if 
nitrogen is forthcoming from animal liquid 
manure or soot water the plants will make 
astonishing progress. If used in a liquid 
form it pays to give a fair price for super, 
as the low and cheap grades contain a rare 
lot of insoluble material. From 1 oz. to 
2 oz. per gallon of water may be used, after 
a good stirring with a stick. 
Cinerarias. 
These must now be kept cool and moist, 
sunshine and a hot, dry atmosphere retard¬ 
ing growth and bringing about insect at¬ 
tacks. A cold frame facing north or east is 
the place for them; they should be stood 
on a bed of ashes, and have air in abund¬ 
ance. Watch should be kept for dirty, 
whitish stripes or streaks on the leaf. 
These show the work of the leaf-mining 
maggot, and the pest may generally be 
killed by pinching the lower end of a streak 
between the thumb and finger. 
Acalyphas. 
I wonder how many of my amateur readers 
grow Acalyphas? The name has an uncouth 
sound, but the plants themselves are far 
from uncouth; indeed, they are among the 
very handsomest of foliage plants. Readers 
who live near Regent’s Park should note the 
fine effect obtained in the beds there by the 
use of Acalyphas. My object in referring to 
them now is to point out that strong, well- 
coloured tops of shoots inserted now singly 
in small pots 3m. or 3^in. will strike with¬ 
out trouble, and give glorious autumn stuff. 
When well rooted they should be transferred, 
to 4^in. pots ' kept well syringed and 
watered, and allowed all the sun possible 
when established. They will make splendid 
table and vase plants in a few weeks from 
striking. Acalypha macafeeana and A. 
musaica are two beautiful and easily grown 
sorts to purchase, if not already possessed. 
“ SUNNYSIDE.” 
Orchids for Amateurs. 
Deciduous Calanthes. 
Plants that were treated as advised in a 
previous note on Calanthes will have their 
growth advanced at the present time to the 
stage when the new pseudo-bulbs commence 
to form. It is at this stage that particular 
care is needed in the treatment of the plants. 
I would point out the necessity of prevent¬ 
ing accumulating moisture in the centre of 
the growth at the present stage, drip from 
the roof, careless watering or syringing of 
the leaves will naturally convey moisture to 
the base, where it has no possibility of es¬ 
cape except by evaporation, and is thus 
liable to become stagnant and quickly sub¬ 
jects the young growth to injury, and with 
the practically sunless season growth is na¬ 
turally sappy, and therefore more liable to 
injury than would be the case with more 
favourable outside conditions. 
Watering. 
The plants having practically filled the 
