July 27, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
509 
Address: The Editor, The Gardening 
World, 37 and 38, Shoe Lane, London, E.C. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may 
cover any branch of gardening. Questions 
should be as brief as possible and written on 
one side of the paper only; a separate sheet 
of paper should be used for each question. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans .—Gardeners who would make 
the best use of this column are invited to 
prepare and forward to us a rough outline 
drawing or plan of their gardens , indicating 
the position of beds and lawns, the charac- 
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. 
2034. Propagating * 1 Petunias and 
Fuchsias. 
I have been trying to root some cuttings 
of Petunias and Fuchsias in my greenhouse, 
but they were rather soft and they flagged 
and withered so much that I do not think 
they will root at ail. I should be grateful 
if you would let me know how I can manage 
to do this in summer, so that I may have 
some large plants to bed out next spring. 
Some of the Petunias are single and some 
are double. Will the double ones flower as 
well outside as in the greenhouse? (H. D., 
Bakewell, Leics.) 
At this season of the year you would re¬ 
quire some special contrivance to enable 
soft cuttings like growing Petunias and 
Fuchsias to root without flagging. The 
greenhouse is kept open for the sake of 
ventilation and the dry atmosphere has the 
effect of wilting the cuttings in a very short 
time. The cuttings should be inserted in 
pots of light, sandy soil and leaf mould, 
and then covered with a bell-glass or hand- 
light. One or two hand-lights would en¬ 
able you to root large numbers of cuttings 
during the summer months when the tem¬ 
perature is sufficiently high to encourage 
rooting rather quickly. They cannot root, 
however, if they are allowed to flag, but 
the hand-light will retain the atmospheric 
moisture about them, preventing them from 
getting shrivelled up. A hand-light can 
also be shaded if stood in a sunny part of 
the greenhouse, and that would be a great 
additional assistance, besides the covering 
of glass. You should be able to get plants 
of large size even as late as the beginning 
of September if you keep them growing by 
potting them off singly as soon as they are 
rooted. Indeed, both of these plants can be 
kept growing all through the winter where 
a night temperature of 50 degs. is main¬ 
tained. The plants should, of course, be 
kept near the glass and repotted into larger 
sizes when the roots are getting well round 
the sides of the pots and before they get 
pot-bound. In a season like what the pre¬ 
sent has been double Petunias would not be 
a great success, owing to the rain lodging 
in the flowers after they are partly expanded. 
Single ones would be more successful even 
in bad seasons if the situation is sheltered, 
so that they may not be broken down by the 
wind. Fuchsias delight in moisture, but 
Petunias flower better in a dry season with 
sunshine. 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden, orchard, etc. The 
north side of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
flat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be marked. Particulars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
received they will be carefully filed, with the 
name and address of the sender, and will be 
consulted by the Editor whenever an enquiry 
is sent. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
2035. Plant from Neighbour’s Garden, 
For some years past I have been troubled 
by a plant which comes through the wall 
from my neighbour’s garden. Can you tell 
me from the enclosed piece what it is and 
if there is any way of preventing it from 
getting into my garden border among the 
plants? (A. Bradley, Warwickshire.) 
There are several plants which would be¬ 
have in this way, but the most common is 
Polygonum cuspidatum, which yours is. 
Another is the hedge Bindweed (Convolvulus 
sepium). Both of these act in the same way 
by producing strong, underground, running 
stems, which are often spoken of as roots, 
though they are really stems and properly 
termed rhizomes. If it is possible to open 
a trench along the side of the wall you can 
always take out the pieces which you can 
find there, but probably they are in a border 
that is fully occupied with other plants. 
To effect a clearance it would be worth while 
in October to lift the whole of the plants in 
the border and lay them in some convenient 
place until you get the border trenched at 
least 2 ft. deep. While the trench is open 
you can examine the wall and see whether 
these creeping stems are coming through. 
If between the bricks of the wall it would be 
worth your while to have the seams pro¬ 
perly cemented. This would stop a large 
number of them, though strong ones might 
be capable of pushing out pieces of cement 
and thus get through. If the wall is not 
deeply let into the soil they would come 
through beneath it, and in such a case it 
would be well to have a narrow portion of 
the border unoccupied by plants so that every 
autumn you could take out some soil so that 
you can push the spade down to a consider¬ 
able depth and thus cut any stems which 
you find. Every piece should, of course, be 
removed. 
2036. Freak of Yellow Marguerite. 
Are the enclosed a curiosity or not ? They 
appeared as first flowers on two separate 
plants—cuttings of last autumn. The 
larger struck me as particularly curious, 
but it may be the habit of this plant in its 
earliest flowers. (Robt. Ross, Yorkshire.) 
The yellow Marguerites you sent us were 
fasciated. What appeared as one large 
bloom with ray florets scattered through the 
centre really consisted of three or more 
flowers joined together on a stem consisting 
of as many original ones with the com¬ 
ponent parts completely united. It would 
be more correct to say that they had not 
separated. Instead of growing up singly as 
they should have done they remained coher¬ 
ing together, imitating a single stem. The 
other piece you sent us consisted of five 
stems in union, as there were five blooms 
united back to back. It is more easy to say 
what this is than to explain why it hap¬ 
pened. Over-luxuriance of growth is a fer¬ 
tile cause of stems becoming fasciated, and 
we presume that your rooted cuttings have 
been treated liberally from the first so that 
they made unusually strong growth and 
failed to separate the branches in the usual 
way. It is not usual for the yellow Mar¬ 
guerite to become fasciated, though it may 
occur occasionally under conditions above 
mentioned. As the soil gets a little ex¬ 
hausted by the roots being more crowded in 
the soil you may not get any more cases of 
the kind during the present season. Simi¬ 
lar cases occur amongst various strong¬ 
growing plants, especially in highly- 
manured soils, including Dahlias, Chrysan¬ 
themums and sometimes Asparagus, both the 
kitchen species and A. plumosus. 
2037. Stonecrop to Flower in Spring-. 
When would be the best time to sow Stone- 
crop so as to flower next spring? Should 
I have to sow the seed or get the plant? 
(Growit, Surrey.) 
You do not mention what species of Stone- 
crop you have in view, as they vary con¬ 
siderably in habit and some would take 
longer to attain a flowering size than others. 
If you had sown the seeds in March or 
April probably most of them would flower 
in the course of the following year. An¬ 
nuals would, of course, flower the same sum¬ 
mer if sown at that time. They are so 
easily propagated by division that the most 
usual way of raising them is accomplished 
m this way. All the common ones should 
be relatively cheap, and you should there¬ 
fore get plants. You can divide them up 
into as many pieces as they have stems if 
you want a large number of them, and dibble 
them into a border of sandy soil and keep 
them moist until -rooted. Leave plenty of 
space between every two plants according to 
the particular species, and they will make a 
considerable amount of growth before the 
season is over. They can then be planted 
out in their permanent positions either in 
October or in March. 
ROSES. 
2038. Treatment of Roses after 
Flowering. 
After my Roses go out of bloom what is 
the best way of treating them to get a dis¬ 
play in the autumn. I have had a very 
good show of Roses, but would like them 
to bloom again if possible. I want to begin 
treating them as soon as the flowers are 
over. (F. Needham, Shropshire.) 
As the Roses fade you should cut off the 
seed pods with a short piece of stalk down 
to a good leaf and bud. You should not 
cut them as you would when pruning in 
spring, merely removing enough of the stem 
till you find a good bud. Water them twice 
a week during August with weak liquid 
manure. If the ground is wet with rain 
the liquid manure may, of course, be used 
stronger, but if the ground is dry then you 
must dilute it. You can also use any of 
the gOod artificial manures advertised in 
our pages, and which are recommended as 
useful for top dressing the ground where 
plants are growing. Even one of these 
manures alternating with liquid manure 
would give better results than by the use 
of one of them as you get more varied sud- 
ply of plant food. 
2039. Crimson Rambler after Flower¬ 
ing. 
I have a fine plant of Crimson Rambler, 
but am told it will only bloom once. I 
should like to have your opinion about this 
