THE GARDENING WORLD, 
July 27, 1907. 
510 
and what I should do to it after it goes 
out of bloom. (iF. Needham, Shropshire.) 
If there are any stems on your plant more 
than two years old the best plan would be 
to cut these out right to the base. This al¬ 
lows more room for the young stems to 
make good growth and ripen their wood. 
If the side shoots on any of the stems are 
too numerous you can thin them out in the 
same way, leaving just sufficient to cover the 
pillar or other support without crowding. 
Only the unripened tips of the young wood 
need be removed, and this can be done when 
pruning it in spring. It will only bloom 
once a year, but a good sized plant may keep 
up a succession for a long time if well 
treated. 
2040. Leaves Brown and Purple. 
Would you kindly inform me through the 
medium of your esteemed paper the cause 
of my Rose leaves all going the same way 
as the enclosed? I may say I have about 
four hundred altogether, and they are af¬ 
fected in the same manner. By assisting 
us you will confer a great benefit on one 
who is greatly distressed as to the cause 
and remedy. The ones tied with white 
thread are Hybrid Teas, the others are Hy¬ 
brid Perpetuals. (James Anderson, Stir¬ 
lingshire.) 
We have examined the leaves you sent us 
both while fresh and after they were dried, 
but fail to find any disease caused by fun¬ 
gus. Some green fiy were present and some 
of the leaves were punctured, but not to such 
an extent as would account for the leaves 
being all discoloured brown and purple like 
yours. There was also a little deposit of 
filth from the atmosphere on the leaves, but 
that would not account for the trouble. Just 
prior to the time you sent them the weather 
had been continually cold and wet, and we 
think it is due to this and the fact that you 
live in a smoky locality where the atmosphere 
is laden with sulphur and other impurities. 
We think that the moisture on the leaves of 
the Roses absorb these impurities, more or 
less dissolving them, and thereby causing 
the functions of the leaves to become de¬ 
ranged owing to the presence of chemical mat¬ 
ters. The heavy, moisture-laden atmosphere 
would prevent the smoke from carrying 
away the impurities, so that it would be 
more or less concentrated in your immediate 
locality. If the atmosphere had been dry 
we do not think your Roses would have suf¬ 
fered in the way they have. The leaves 
presented the same appearance as Roses often 
do with us in the early part of May when 
east winds are blowing while they are still 
young, thin and tender. The plants may not 
make satisfactory growth this season, but if 
next year is better the Roses may resume 
their vigour as we have seen some of them 
do that were similarly affected. 
2041. Freak of Rose. 
Would you kindly let me know through 
your valuable columns the reason of the 
enclosed Rose blooming as it has done? I 
may say that it has come off a large tree, 
and the particular branch that it was cut 
from has all red blooms and all the others 
are white ones. (J. J. Whitfield, Middle¬ 
sex.) 
We believe the bloom you sent us was 
Duke of Wellington, which often behaves 
in this manner in different parts of Britain. 
We illustrated two similar Roses on July 
8th, 1905, p. 557, wtiere you can refer to 
what we said about them. We described the 
freak as proliferation of the central axis of 
the flower. Instead of producing a seed 
vessel a stalk grew out bearing six Rose 
buds, which would have bloomed later on, 
or at least some of them. It is a sort of 
reversion in which the axis resumes fresh 
growth instead of ending in a bloom as 
usual. The white Roses on the other part 
of the plant are probably another variety 
budded on the same stock. If they are poor 
Roses they may, indeed, be the stock on 
which Duke of Wellington was budded. 
You might have sent us a bloom of this as 
well. The freak may possibly be encouraged 
by over-feeding, but the later blooms may 
be in better form. 
2042. Rose Leaves Falling. 
, Can you tell me the cause of the spots on 
the enclosed leaf, what it is, and what I 
can do to cure it ? The leaves are also 
falling off. (Silverdale, Lancs.) 
The leaf you sent us was very badly 
affected with the Rose leaf black blotch 
caused by a fungus named Actinonema 
Rosae. Where each blotch occurs a fungus 
spore had commenced sending out very fine 
threads, which you can just detect by the 
use of a magnifying lens. The disease is 
fairly common amongst Roses, but does not 
as a rule spread very fast nor do a great 
amount of injury. When, it spreads all 
over the middle of the leaf, as in your 
case, the leaves'cannot perform their func¬ 
tions and soon fa!I away. The leaf was also 
discoloured, showing that an insect enemy 
was present some time ago in the shape of 
a fly closely allied to the froghopper. If 
you had taken the precaution to dislodge 
them with strong soapsuds applied forcibly 
by means of a syringe or garden engine, the 
leaves would have escaped being punctured 
and possibly this fungus would not have 
gained such a footing. As it is the best 
thing you can do is to gather all those leaves 
which are very badly blotched and burn 
them. Then prepare some Bordeaux mix¬ 
ture and thoroughly syringe the leaves, 
chiefly the upper side, and this will check 
the growth of the fungus. Next year you 
may not see very much of it, especially if 
you take care to keep down insect enemies 
TREES AND SHRUBS . 
2043. Name of Flowering Plant. 
I should be glad if you would let me know 
the name of this plant, also whether it is 
a flowering plant. I have always thought 
it was a -Syringa, but am told it is not. 
I grew it from a slip five years ago, but by 
breaking off the side shoots have made a 
tree of it now about 7 ft. high. (G. G., 
Surrey.) 
The shoot you sent us was that of a Plum 
tree, apparently a garden variety of Plum, 
which naturally forms a small tree. It 
should flower in March or April, according 
to the season, and possibly fruit, when you 
will be able to see what it is. If it is a 
good variety of Plum it could then be de¬ 
termined when the fruit is ripe. The leaves 
of the Syringa you probably have in view 
are more wrinkled—-that is, if you mean 
some of the varieties of Philadelphus now 
in bloom. Syringa is really the botanical 
name of the Lilac, but the word is employed 
in a popular sense to indicate the Phila¬ 
delphus or Mock Orange, thereby causing 
confusion. 
2044. Propagating White Flowered 
Shrub. 
Can you fell me the name of the enclosed 
shrub and let me know in next week’s issue 
ol' your valuable book the best time to 
propagate it, and how I should proceed to 
ensure success ? I have only had it since 
last spring, and do not know if it is hardy. 
How can I keep it in winter? (A. E. Tessof, 
Wilts.) 
The shrub is Veronica Traversii, which 
is hardy in all the more favoured parts of 
the country, and will even live out for a 
number of winters unharmed as far north 
as Edinburgh or Dundee. You may regard 
it as hardy in your county. It may happen 
to get killed even in the London district in 
a severe and prolonged winter. A stock of 
it is usually preserved, however, in cold 
frames. It is easily propagated by cuttings. 
which may be taken off about 3 in. or 4 in. 
long and inserted firmly in sandy soil, 
watered and placed under a hand-light. If 
you have a cold frame not occupied with any¬ 
thing else except cuttings you could, of 
course, place the pots there and keep the 
frame closed. Shade during bright weather, 
and examine the pots of cuttings every after¬ 
noon to see if they require watering or not. 
When the cuttings are rooted they will show 
it by commencing to grow. The pots can 
then be shifted into a frame that is kept open 
during the day. If the cuttings are only 
newly rooted it may be necessary to give a 
little shading during the heat of the day 
until the foliage has become hardened. It 
can then be treated as a hardy plant in pots. 
VEGETABLES. 
2045. Crop After Early Potatos. 
I have about half an acre of land now 
planted with new Strawberry plants and 
Potatos, half of each. The Strawberries do 
not look as though they will fruit this year. 
The Potatos are doing well, although the 
plants were put in very late. Will you tell 
me exactly what I ought to grow on that 
piece of land to make it most profitable and 
useful to my house? When I start to take 
up the Potatos, what ought I to put in their 
place? The same remarks apply to the 
Strawberries. (Constant Reader, Birming¬ 
ham.) 
Strawberries that have not fruited by this 
time are scarcely likely to fruit this year. 
You do not tell us when you planted them, 
-because if the Potatos were planted late, the 
same may apply to the Strawberries. To 
give satisfaction, Strawberries should be 
planted in September, or even earlier if the 
ground is ready. When you have dug a 
portion of the Potatos you could plant late 
Greens that will give you a supply during 
winter and spring. For instance, you could 
make a plantation of Ellam’s Early, Fulham 
or Battersea Cabbage and Rosette Colewort. 
The latter is a small Cabbage that may be 
cut and used even although the hearts may 
not be formed. It is very hardy, and that 
is an excuse for using it. The first two 
Cabbages would not be hardy if they are 
more or less hearted, but you could then use 
them. They are early varieties, and should 
give you something to use as greens late in 
autumn. About the beginning of August 
you should sow Ellam’s Early Dwarf and 
Flower of Spring, to be planted in autumn 
or in February. At the same time you can 
sow Onions for transplanting in spring, 
using Globe Tripoli and Giant Rocca. White 
and yellow Turnips could also be sown, if 
you like them to come in for use in autumn. 
The same would apply to Lettuce. Besides 
the Cabbages we have mentioned there are 
various kinds of Kales, including Dwarf 
Curly Kale and Cottagers’ Kale. The first- 
named would give you a supply of greens 
in winter, and the sprouts produced bv the 
Cottagers’ Kale in spring would come in 
very useful after most greens have been 
used or destroyed by the winter. You could 
also transplant Leeks into the ground from 
which the Potatos are to be lifted, and al¬ 
though they may only attain moderate size 
planted so late, they will, nevetheless, be 
usable and welcome during winter and 
spring. Unless your Strawberries are bar¬ 
ren they ought to give a good supply next 
summer, being well established, but without 
details we cannot imagine what is wrong 
with them. It will be a good plan when you 
get pieces of the land bare to trench and 
manure it, if this has not been previously 
done. Then, next year, you will be able to 
sow vegetables in great variety, including 
Cabbages, Cauliflowers, purple sprouting 
Broccoli, Kales, etc. Peas, Dwarf Beans, 
Scarlet Runners and Broad Beans are other 
