THE GARDENING WORLD. 
August 3, 1907. 
51 6 
Chrysanthemums. 
WORK FOR AUGUST. 
Careful attention to watering, feeding, 
and tying must now be the order of the 
day. As regards watering, it is a good 
rule never to give water to a plant that 
will do without it for another couple of 
hours. Of course this means that the 
plants must be gone over at least three 
times a day, but better results will be 
obtained in this way than by watering in 
advance of requirements. Other points 
worthy of note in this connection are to 
have each pot standing perfectly level 
so that the water can soak evenly through 
the ball of soil, and when this latter has 
been left to get dry to always give a 
soaking of clear water before applying 
liquid manure. 
The plants will now require regular 
feeding with manure water, prepared as 
directed last month, supplementing this 
by occasional applications of artificial 
manure mixed with water. A handy 
method of using the latter is to mix a 
small quantity of the compound manure 
with water to a thin paste in a jar or 
other handy vessel, and, when required 
for use, taking up on the end of a long 
label or flattened stick about a dessert¬ 
spoonful of the paste to each gallon can 
of water, and well stirring. 
Where sufficient space has been left 
from the final potting, top-dressing will 
be found to be much the best way of 
applying artificial manures, 1 lb. of the 
latter to each bushel of soil being a safe 
quantity to use. Thin top-dressings 
evenly and firmly applied give the best 
results. It will, of course, be necessary 
to use a water-pot with a rose on for a 
day or two after these top-dressings, and 
also to withhold other manurial applica¬ 
tions for a few days. 
If exhibition flowers are required, buds 
must be “ taken ” as they appear from 
now onwards. This applies to the 
Japanese section. Most of the incurved 
varieties are better taken later, so buds 
of these must not be removed until after 
the first week of August. All buds 
should be “taken” by gradually remov¬ 
ing the surrounding shoots by means of 
the finger and thumb, being careful not 
to attempt the removal of those near the 
flower-bud until it can be done with 
safety. 
Now is the time that earwigs will do a 
great deal of damage unless they are 
caught and killed. This should be done 
at night-time with the help of a lamp and 
a pair of tweezers. A good number may 
also be despatched in the day-time by 
ramming a piece of stiff wire into the 
hollow tops of the bamboo stakes, this be¬ 
ing a favourite hiding place. Rust and mil¬ 
dew often put m an appearance about this 
time, and means must be taken for safe¬ 
guarding the plants by dressing the 
undersides of the leaves with a fungi¬ 
cide, preferably in powder form. 
The early flowering garden ' varieties 
are now coming into flower, and will be 
all the better for an occasional soaking of 
liquid manure, or a sprinkling of arti¬ 
ficial manure watered in. In some cases 
a little judicious thinning of the flowei*- 
buds is an advantage, but generally 
speaking this section is more effective 
when allowed to flower freely. This, 
however, is not the case with some of the 
later flowering decorative varieties, such 
kinds, for instance, as Mrs. J. Thomson 
and its sports, or Week’s Crimson. Vio¬ 
let Lady Beaumont and Nivette do not 
provide enough petals or florets to make 
good flowers without a thinning of the 
buds, although being of a good habit of 
growth, these varieties can, by timely 
pinching early in the season be made to 
produce a good number of shoots with 
one nice flower on each. On the other 
hand, many popular greenhouse varieties 
are very effective, with sprays of three 
flowers on each stem, notably the Vivi- 
and Morel family, with Niveus, Kathleen 
Thomson, Mdme. Oberthur, and Tuxedo. 
It should be borne in mind that single¬ 
flowering kinds are best left to flower on 
terminal buds, so called because they are 
a bunch of buds appearing on each shoot 
when the plant has finished its growth. 
These may be thinned according to the 
style of growth of the plant. 
R. Barnes. 
-- 
A Good Ivy-Leaved Pelargonium 
(Mary Welch). 
As a change from the prevalent shades 
of rose and salmon pink, the above 
named Pelargonium is a most excellent 
variety, producing good trusses of bright 
scarlet flowers. The foliage is compara¬ 
tively small, dark green, and crimped, 
the stems short-jointed, and therefore the 
plant is specially good for pot-culture, 
while at the same time it may be well 
used for vases or window-boxes. It is 
a thing that should prove to be very use¬ 
ful to many gardeners, and indeed one 
frequently hears a wish expressed that 
more variety of colour were obtainable 
among the Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums. 
Any reader desirous of obtaining a good 
scarlet should make enquiries of his nur¬ 
seryman for Mary Welch. 
Heather Bell. 
-++♦ 
Gooseberry Bush on an Apple Tree. 
In a garden at Malton there is to be 
seen the curious sight of a Gooseberry 
bush sprouting out of an Apple tree. 
The growth -is spontaneous, the bush not 
having been grafted. No doubt it is 
merely growing upon the tree, but hav¬ 
ing no vital connection with it beyond a 
little bit of soil. 
Three Beautiful . . 
- Roses. - 
Rose Dorothy Perkins, 
Few Roses surpass this variety for 
covering pergolas, fences, poles, etc. It 
also thrives and flowers abundantly grown 
as a standard, its pendent growths 
clustered round an iron hoop, full of its 
bright rosy pink flowers, being much ad¬ 
mired. Unlike the Crimson Rambler, it 
has shown no sign of mildew as yet, no 
matter what the weather has been. It 
does well on its own roots, and cuttings 
put in during September on a west border 
form roots as easily as Laurels. Grown 
as a standard, it gets rather severely 
pruned in the spring, but this does not im¬ 
pair its flowering propensities. 
Rose Electra. 
This is a capital Rose for covering 
arches, pergolas, etc., the large trusses oi 
canary yellow flowers nicely scented be¬ 
ing a recommendation to all lovers of 
polyantha Roses. After flowering is past, 
cut out the old wood so that the strong 
growths of the current year can have 
space to develop; this is, in fact, the 
treatment necessary for all the polyantha 
type. 
Rose Thalia. 
This perpetual flowering polyantha 
Rose, having large trusses of pure white 
semi-double flowers, is now, the first week 
of July, at its best. It is a very strong 
grower, and most suitable for covering 
old trees or rambling over Larch poles 
as grown in many gardens. These Roses 
are much benefited by manurial waterings 
after the old wood has been cut away, and 
if a mulch of good manure can be con¬ 
veniently applied, so much the better. 
This variety does not with us throw up 
any strong growths from the base, but by 
cutting hard back one or more of the old 
growths each summer the base is kept 
fairly well clothed with foliage during the 
growing season. 
Those who do not possess this trio of 
Roses should make a note and include 
them in their collection of climbing Roses 
another year. 
J. Mayne, Bicton, 
-- 
Hedera dentata variegata. 
The ordinary green form of th'is Ivy has 
leaves which are amongst the largest of 
the Ivies in cultivation. The variegated 
foliage differs by having a broad, creamv 
yellow margin to the leaves. It will make 
a useful addition to variegated Ivies. 
Award of Merit by the R.H.S. on the 9th 
and 10th inst., when shown by Mr. L. R. 
Russell at the Holland Park Show. 
Rose I.ady Helen Vincent. 
The blooms of this new Hybrid Tea 
variety are of a delicate salmon-pink, 
large, full and rather high pointed in the 
centre. The blooms are also somewhat 
fragrant, but have a charming appear¬ 
ance on account of their beautiful form 
and delicate colour. An award of merit r 
by the R.H.S. on the qth and 10th July at 
the Holland House Show when shown by 
Messrs. Alexander Dickson and Sons, : 
Ltd. 
