V 
August 3, 1907 THE GARDENING WORLD. 5-:, 
doubt how best to move the perennials, 
Hollyhock, Galega, Gypsophila, Delphi¬ 
nium, etc., from the garden. The first- 
named will, of course, have to be cut down. 
Would this be necessairy in the case of the 
others ? They are not very large plants. As 
regards Roses—standard, bush and climb¬ 
ing—how should I proceed ? Should I cut 
them back on removal ? Everything in the 
garden has been planted within the last two 
years. (O. F., Banbury.) 
August is a. vesry inconvenient time for 
lifting most of the plants you mention, but 
if the weather is fairly moist, as it has been 
hitherto this summer, you should have a fair 
measure of success with the perennials, at 
least. The cutting down of the plants would 
be a little severe, perhaps, for Galega and 
Gypsophila, but we are afraid it is the only 
plan, owing to their deep-rooting nature and 
the certainty that tKe roots will be greatly 
injured in the operation of lifting. We 
should cut all of them down at once, or wait 
until the Delphiniums have finished bloom¬ 
ing and then cut them down. The latter sub¬ 
mit to the process readily. If you cut them 
down now, they will just be commencing to 
sprout by the time you are going to lift 
them. Make up a sort of paint consisting of 
soil and water and puddle the roots in this 
as soon as you lift them. This will prevent 
them from getting dried up during the pro¬ 
cess of conveying them to the other garden. 
As they are only moderate in size, that will 
be in your favour. 'Concerning the Roses, 
you might cut back the standards and bushes 
at once, and puddle the roots in the same 
way as the herbaceous plants when you lift 
them. In any case it will have a severe 
check upon them. If the Roses were ours 
we should not trouble about lifting the 
climbing ones, as we know that some which 
were cut back and lifted last April have 
not pushed a single bud since they were 
planted. Indeed, you could establish young 
plants sooner by getting a fresh lot in the 
beginning of November. 
2060. Sowing Sweet Williams. 
Is it too late to sow seeds of Sweet Wil¬ 
liam to get them to bloom next summer ? 
I have seeds of a very fine strain, and would 
like to have them in bloom next year. Would 
you sow them in boxes, or in the open 
ground ? Thanking you for past favours. 
(R. L. W., Sussex.) 
It is late to get plants of the best size, 
but we still think you would succeed in 
getting plants large enough to bloom next 
year. With that object in view you should 
sow the seeds in boxes and place them in a 
cold frame. This could be kept close until 
the seeds are up in order to hasten germina¬ 
tion, but as soon as the seedlings appear 
above the soil they should have a little ven¬ 
tilation by tilting the lights up at the back. 
Thej r should, of course, be as close to the 
glass as possible. When the seedlings de¬ 
velop the first pair of leaves you should 
prick them off into other boxes 2 in. apart each 
way. Return them to the frame and keep 
them growing under genial conditions, but 
avoid closing the frame up too much, other¬ 
wise they - will get drawn and spindly. 
When the plants touch one another you couid 
plant them out in the positions where they 
are to bloom, or plant them in nursery lines 
in some reserve part of the garden, giving 
them room to form bushy plants. They 
could either be planted out in October or 
November, or else in February. Should the 
weather keep mild they will increase in size 
and give you a fair display next summer. 
2061. Propagating Sempervivum tabu- 
laeforme. 
I have some plants of Sempervivum tabu- 
aelorme, which make a very striking edging 
tor beds, but they do not seem to produce off¬ 
sets. Can you tell me how it is propagated 
and the best time to do it? (R. Turner, 
Dorset.) 
This fine form of Houseleek should give 
offsets occasionally, but it is more rapidly 
propagated by means of the leaves. The 
oldest leaves are the best, provided they are 
still in fresh condition. Take them off 
singly to the very base, this usually being 
done by pulling them downwards with the 
finger and thumb. Get a shallow pan and 
fill it with clean silver sand. Push the 
base of the leaf till it has a slight hold in 
the sand and give a good watering with a 
fine rosed watering pot to settle the sand 
about the leaves. Place this on a shelf in 
some moderately warm' house where the 
leaves will not get too quickly dried up. 
They will gradually produce a little plant 
just where the leaf is in contact with the 
soil. When these have made a number of 
small leaves and a few roots you can trans¬ 
plant them into another seed pan or a shal¬ 
low box in a compost of equal parts of sand, 
leaf mould, ,and sifted loam. These will 
gradually grow to a useful size if they are 
kept in a cold frame or greenhouse in sum¬ 
mer and in a house from which frost is ex¬ 
cluded in winter. 
ROSES. 
2062. Pruning a Hybrid Noisette. 
I have a standard, namely, Ball of Snow, 
a hybrid Noisette raised by Henderson. Do 
you know this variety ? I pruned it rather 
hard this year, and it has made some fine 
growth. I take it it will only need slight 
pruning next season. (T. S., Surrey.) 
We have some good lists of Roses, but 
do not find such a name, unless you mean 
Boule de Neige, which is French for Ball 
of Snow, but that is a Hybrid Perpetual, 
not a Noisette. If any such Rose as you 
mention has been raised and named, it must 
now be lost to cultivation, or at least out of 
commerce. If it is really a Noisette, you 
did right in pruning it when newly planted, 
and having made good growth it should not 
be pruned next spring beyond thinning out 
the very weakest shoots where they happen 
to be crowded. Noisettes will not bloom at 
all if severely pruned. If there are'long, 
straggling shoots, such may be shortened 
back to make a neat head to the standard, 
but that would be all. 
2063. Roses for Wooden Fence. 
I have a Climbing White Pet. Is this any 
good for covering a wooden fence (south 
aspect) ? Also kindly name a good climbing, 
continuous-blooming double Rose for a simi¬ 
lar aspect and position. (T. S., Surrey.) 
We have no record of Climbing White 
Pet in our lists, though there is no reason 
why there might not be such a Rose. No 
doubt it would succeed in profitably occupy¬ 
ing a low fence. Another Rose suitable for 
walls and fences in town gardens is Long- 
worth Rambler, a Hybrid Tea with light 
crimson flowers, which blooms in summer 
and then freely again in autumn. It is one 
of the best climbers of recent production. 
2064. Companion for W. A. Richardson. 
I am planting a W. A. Richardson Rose 
in autumn to cover an arch. Can you give 
me a good companion for the other side ? 
Is Reine Marie Henriette any good? (T. S., 
Surrey.) 
The second Rose you mention is suitable 
for arches, but it does better on walls. 
The flowers are of a cherry-carmine. You 
can either use that or get Reve d’Or, a buff- 
yellow Noisette of vigorous growth, and 
which flowers again freely in the autumn. 
Before you plant any of these Roses against 
an arch you should take out a hole 3 ft. wide 
and at least 2 ft. deep, putting in some 
brickbats fox' drainage. Cover these with 
turf or something that will keep the soil 
from getting amongsrt the drainage. Then 
fill up the hole with good loam—that is, 
if the natural soil is not of a good holding 
character. In any case the taking out of the 
soil first prepares it for receiving deep root¬ 
ing subjects, such as Roses and other 
climbers, which are too frequently planted 
in a hole just sufficiently large to take in 
the roots. In consequence of this the roots 
take a long time to get thoroughly estab¬ 
lished. 
2065. Roses for Pillars. 
Kindly give me the names of two Roses 
for pillars. The aspect is south, but rather 
draughty. Carmine Pillar, Gloire de Dijon 
and Aglaia have all failed to do any good 
in this position. (T. S., Surrey.) 
We should give the same instructions con¬ 
cerning the preparation of the soil as in the 
case of the Rose for an arch. Not only 
should the soil be loosened, but it should 
also be of a good, rich, substantial char¬ 
acter. If any climbing Rose at all will suc¬ 
ceed in such a situation, we should think it 
would be Crimson Rambler and Climbing 
Aimee Vibert, or Longworth Rambler. 
Windy situations are not at all suited to 
Roses, because even if they grow the flowers 
get spoiled by the lashing of the thorny 
stems, which tear the flowers and leaves all 
to pieces. If uncommonly draughty, we 
should advise you to plant climbers which 
have no thorns upon them. If not decidedly 
bad in this respect, then we presume that 
the sites- have not been prepared for them. 
2066. Showing Roses. 
What are the points to be observed in 
making up an exhibit of twelve varieties of 
Roses distinct, to be shown in boxes ? (T. 
Parkes, YoTks.) 
We presume you refer to the points of a 
good Rose. The bloom must be of good size 
in proportion to the particular variety. It 
should also be of good form—that is, be 
regular in outline, have a good centre with 
plenty of petals of good substance. The 
bloom should also be fresh, of good colour, 
and clear. They should have good sub¬ 
stance, but if the Roses have been well 
grown there should be no difficulty in this 
respect. If you are required to show foliage 
with them, as is usually the case, that 
should be clean and good. You should not 
employ any duplicates, nor two or more 
varieties that too closely resemble one an¬ 
other. Roses should be nearly of equal size 
if possible, to give the boxes a regularly 
filled appearance, but specially fine blooms 
are permissible and carry weight if all the 
other qualities are present. 
TREES AND SHRUBS . 
2067. Pruning Honeysuckle. 
I shall be obliged if you will let me know 
through your columns the proper time to cut 
back Honeysuckle, and whether it should be 
well done or otherwise. (S. H. -S., Essex.) 
With the exception of lonicera fragrantis- 
sima and L. Standishii the Honeysuckles all 
flower on wood made during the summer. 
They should be pruned, therefore, not latex 
than February, pruning to two or three buds 
at the base of the young shoots. If any of 
the long shoots are required to fill their 
space they can. of course, 'be nailed in posi¬ 
tion and all the superfluous wood pruned as 
above directed. 
2068. Name and Treatment of 
Climber. 
I shall be very much obliged if you will 
kindly fell me the name of the enclosed 
flower, which grows as a climber in a 
friend’s unheated conservatory. Will it 
grow out of doors ? What is the best method 
of propagating it, and what treatment does 
it require? (A. C. D., Kent.) 
The specimen you sent us- was Solanum 
jasminoides, which is hardy in various parts 
of the country. It should be quite so in 
