526 
your district, and especially in your dry 
soil. It is, of course, an excellent subject 
for an unheated conservatory. It may be 
propagated by layers or cuttings. The 
layers may be put down at once and kept 
well watered till they make roots. Cuttings 
of short side shoots may be taken, and after 
preparation inserted in very sandy soil and 
covered with a bell-glass or hand-light. This 
plan could be adopted even if you rooted 
the cuttings in a greenhouse. Select shoots 
that are sufficiently firm at the base to root 
without damping. If }'ou intend growing it 
under glass plant it out in soil at the foot 
of a wall or pillar and train up the shoots. 
It will only flower well where thoroughly 
exposed to light. After it has finished 
flowering prune back all the side shoots, 
if not required to fill any space, leaving 
only one or two buds at the base of the 
shoots. In spring these will sprout, and 
later on produce flowers again. If you in¬ 
tend to grow it out of doors prepare a good 
site by taking out a hole 3 ft. square and at 
least 2 ft. deep and filling this with good 
soil. Use drainage unless you are in con¬ 
tact with the chalk. The other treatment 
would be the same as under glass. 
VEGETABLES. 
2069. Vegetable Mairrow in a Frame. 
I set several vegetable Marrow seeds in 
a spent hotbed in a brick frame at the end 
of May. The soil is about 15 in. off the 
top of bricks. Do you think they will fruit 
properly in a place like that? They have 
grown stems over 3 ft. long, with several 
flower buds on, and looking very strong. 
I am told they will never fruit, as they have 
made too much growth. Could you oblige 
by answering through your paper, as I 
have not grown them before ? (N ovice, 
Lancs.) 
After the plants attain the size you men¬ 
tion the lights should then be taken off, so 
as to fully expose the Marrow to light and 
air. By keeping it covered up with glass 
lights it may make rampant growth without 
being strong enough to fruit. Give the plants 
plenty of water in dry weather, and see that 
the stems do not get too much crowded . Some 
of them might be allowed to ramble outside 
the frame, otherwise you will have to pinch 
them when they have filled the space. 
2070. Onions with Thick Necks, 
I have a large bed of Onions, but although 
they have made good growth they do not 
bulb up properly, but have made very thick 
necks that are no good for showing. I 
trenched the ground and manured it well in 
winter, but this has not given me the re¬ 
sults I expected. Can you tell me what I 
ought to have done? (A. Cook, Herts.)_ 
You did well in trenching and manuring 
the ground, as Onions require plenty of food, 
though the soil should not be of a clayey 
nature. You must have omitted to tread the 
soil firmly both before and after sowing the 
seeds. If the surface is left loose this in¬ 
clines them to make long necks, but if your 
soil is suitable and you tread the soil firmly 
with the feet before drawing out the lines, 
and then tread the lines after the seeds 
have been covered, you should have no diffi¬ 
culty in getting well-shaped bulbs with thin 
necks. Of course, the season has been some¬ 
what against you on account of the plentiful 
rainfall and the want of sun. Some of your 
Onions may yet produce good, well-ripened 
bulbs if you bend down the necks sometime 
during this month. Those that have scarcely 
any thickened bulb had best be employed for 
temporary use. 
2071. Parsley in Winter. 
Would you please give me some hints how 
to preserve Parsley in winter ? Some people 
get it in fine condition all winter, while 
ours gets into very shabby condition long 
THE GARDENING WORLD, 
before winter is over. I mean Parsley in 
the open air, not in pots or frames. (H. D. 
Warner, Wilts.) 
Without knowing the conditions, we pre¬ 
sume that you have sown your Parsley too 
early and left it growing too thickly. Pars¬ 
ley keeps best in winter if the leaves are not 
too much crowded and make stout leaves that 
stand up against the rain and snow. It is 
.rather late now for getting good plants of 
Parsley before winter, though in your 
southern locality it may } r et be possible to 
get good growth before winter comes. You 
should, therefore, sow some seeds at once in 
fresh soil in some sheltered situation, though, 
well exposed to light. If you have plenty 
of ground you could give each plant 8 in. 
or 9 in. from the next one, but you should 
at ieast give the plants half that distance. 
FRUIT. 
20 7 2. Grapes Brown. 
Could you oblige me by telling me the 
cause of these Grapes going like the berries 
sent you ? The border has a concrete bottom 
with a drain through it. The Vines look 
quite healthy in foliage and the house is 
shaded a little. I have watered them well, 
as it runs away very freely. The Vines are 
about 12 years old. (E. Y., Bath.) 
The berries you sent us were slightly 
affected with spot caused by a fungus named 
Glaeosporium ampelophagum. Muscats are 
most liable to this ailment, and the condi¬ 
tions that favour it are crowding of the 
berries with an undue amount of moisture 
in the house, especially by condensation 
during the night. The berries you sent us 
were, however, more extensively injured by 
scalding. This is produced by the sun on 
bright mornings while the Grapes are yet 
moist. The previous sunless condition of 
the weather had the effect of making the 
berries soft and thin-skinned, so that a 
bright morning has' the effeot of scalding the 
berries unless you take the precaution to 
open the ventilators early, so as to allow the 
moisture to escape. Vineries are so con¬ 
structed that they gather the rays of the sun, 
and the temperature rises very quickly. You 
should always be on the alert on bright 
mornings, especially after some days of dull, 
wet weather. A little ventilation early in 
the morning will enable the moisture to 
escape, and thus prevent scalding. Venti¬ 
lation should be done, however, gradually, 
so as to avoid causing a chilly draught to 
play on the berries. You say that the house 
was a little shaded, but if this shade was 
intentionally given we consider it a mistake. 
Vines can put up with all the sunshine they 
get, provided the other cultural conditions 
are correct. 
2073. Plum Tree Unhealthy. 
The foliage of one of my Plum trees- has 
taken on quite an unhealthy appearance, dif¬ 
ferent from all the rest. Can you say what 
is realty the matter with it, and if there is 
any cure for it. The tree bears no fruit, and 
this called my attention to it. (T. Red- 
burn, Bucks.) 
Your tree has no doubt got the silver leaf 
disease caused by a fungus known as 
Stereum purpureum. If the tree is very bad 
it means that the whole substance of the 
trunk, it may be, as well as the branches, 
is more or less- permeated with the fungus. 
Your best plan would be to give the ground a 
good dressing of lime and lightly point this 
in about the tree. If it continues getting 
worse the chances are that the free will die 
altogether next year. Your best plan, there¬ 
fore, would be to get a fresh tree and plant 
it in a different site, mixing some lime with 
the soil. You could plant an Apple or a 
Pear on the site of the diseased Plum, if 
you feel so inclined. Plum trees and other 
stone fruits should have a good proportion 
; *• 
August 3, 1907. 
of lime rubble or chalk mixed with the soil 
at planting time. 
2074. Peach Leaves with Holes, 
I should be much obliged if you could 
kindly tell me the cause of these Peach tree 
leaves dropping off and becoming spotted 
like this. They are in a cool house, with 
no heat except from -the sun. They are plan¬ 
ted partly in and partly out of the house in 
good loam, and there is no drip from the 
glass. The trees are not old. (V. L. Moore, 
Ireland.) 
Your Peach trees are affected with the shot 
hole fungus, also known as Cercospora cir- 
cumcissa. The fungus is rather a common 
one, and frequently gains an entrance into 
Peach houses. The only thing you can do 
now is to pick off and burn most of the 
leaves—-at least, all those that are very badly 
affected. The pieces which turn brown and 
fall out are the means of carrying the spores 
to healthy leaves. To prevent the spread of 
the fungus you should spray the leaves -thor¬ 
oughly with ammoniacal solution of copper 
carbonate. This will prevent if from mak¬ 
ing further progress this year, but there may 
still be spores in the house, and next year 
you should commence spraying when the 
leaves commence to expand. The spraying 
should be repeated for some time after this, 
and if carefully done you may not have the 
same experience next year. Ventilation 
should be given so as to dry up this excessive 
moisture in the house. It has no connection 
with the border, and drip from the glass 
should only assist the fungus by keeping the 
leaves moist. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
-2075. A Cheap Trap for Slugs. 
In your issue for July 20th, p. 484, you 
mention a cheap trap for slugs. A friend 
writes: “ Mrs. C. has got thousands by 
means of the orange trap, that is- by a long 
way the best method.” Many thanks for 
sending us the extract from The Gardening 
World. (D. R. K., A Regular Reader, 
Edinburgh.) 
207 6. “ Gardening World " Handbooks. 
I have in my possession a little handbook 
of yours on ‘ 1 Select Dahlias and Their Cul¬ 
tivation by Amateurs,” and which, if I re¬ 
member rightly, was- presented with an issue 
of The Gardening World some time ago. 
May I ask you if you have any more of 
these handbooks on other plants; and, if 
so, whether you could favour me with a list 
of them, ias I should be pleased to possess; 
directions with regard to other plants in this 
handy form? (A. Brommage, Warwick¬ 
shire.) 
We have two other handbooks of similar 
size to “Selected Dahlias,” namely, “The 
Fifty Best Roses ” and “ Select Annuals and 1 
Biennials,” which may be obtained from this 
office for tyd. each, post free. We have a 
larger handbook, entitled “ Select Carna¬ 
tions, Picotees and Pinks,” obtainable for 
2s. 3d. in cardboard, or 2 S-. 9d. in cloth, post 
free. Also “Chrysanthemums: A Manual 
for Exhibitors and Growers,” post free for 
2s. 2d. 
NAME8 OF PLANTS. 
(William Legget) The shrub is a variety 
of Diervilla hortensis; 2, Cephalaria tar- 
tarica.—(F. W. C.) We do not recognise 
either of your Roses; the pink one had 
fallen to pieces, and all should have been 
packed with a little’d-amp moss to keep -them 
from rolling about in the box in comingi 
through the post.—(R. W.) 1, Sidalcea mal- 
vaeflora; 2, Sidalcea Candida; 3, Campanula 
pumiila alba; 4, Malva moschata; 5, Cen- 
taurea dealbata; 6, Lathyrus latifolius.— 
(Flower Lover) 1, Antennaria tomentosa; 2,, 
Anaphalis margaritacea; 3, Saxifraga An- 
