54 ° 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
August io, 1907. 
nonette is frequently sown between the rows 
of Roses, and for cut flowers this should 
always be in request. Nothing should be 
sown or planted that would require the 
soil to be deeply dug after the Roses have 
taken possession of the soil. Various bulbs, 
such as Daffodils and Tulips, might, how¬ 
ever, be planted if there is sufficient bare 
ground without interfering with the Roses. 
Darwin and other May flowering Tulips 
are highly suitable. A selection of first- 
class Roses for Walls would consist of Mme. 
Berard (one of the best Dijon Teas), 
Bouquet d’Or, Belle Lyonnaise (west or 
south-west wall), Longworth Rambler, Wil¬ 
liam Allen Richardson, Gloire de Dijon 
(west or north wall), Climbing Mrs. W. J. 
Grant (east aspect wall), Mme. Alfred Car- 
riere, Reve d’Or (south wall), Lamarque 
(south wall), and Zephirine Drouhin (a very 
fragrant variety). First-class Roses for 
greenhouse culture in pots are Perle des 
jarddns, Mme. Falcot, Killarney, Anna 
Olivier, Capt. Hayward, Caroline Testout, 
Liberty, Mme. Hoste, Mrs. J. Laing, 
Souvenir de Pierre Netting, White Maman 
Cochet, and Lady Battersea. First-class 
climbers for the greenhouse are Climbing 
Mrs. W. J. Grant, Climbing Niphetos, 
Francois Crouse, and William Allen 
Richardson. We have also selected a list 
for culture in the outdoor beds, and eight 
of these are specially selected for their 
sweet scent as well as other qualities, 
namely, General Jacqueminot, Dupuy Ja- 
main, Marie Beaumann, Rosa Mundi 
(striped), Cherry Ripe,' Alfred Colomb, 
Common Provence, and Ulrich Brunner. 
Four others to make up a dozen are Hein¬ 
rich Schultheis, Camille Bernardin, Chas. 
Lefebvre, and Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. 
All of the Roses you mention are also good, 
and some of them we have mentioned in the 
above special lists. 
VEGETABLES. 
2089. Mushrooms in Outhouse. 
I should be glad if you could kindly 
answer the following questions in your 
column “Enquire Within” in your paper. 
Would it be possible to make a Mushroom 
bed in a cool outhouse and rather dark? 
How should I set about it? I can get 
plenty of horse manure, also fowl manure. 
If made and spawned now, how soon should 
I get Mushrooms? The shed is floored with 
stone. (Mystery, Soms.) 
The cool outhouse would answer for a 
Mushroom bed, and by the time the Mush¬ 
rooms appear there would probably be no 
danger of the Mushrooms being damaged 
by the maggots which usually infest Mush¬ 
room houses in summer. Light is not essen¬ 
tial for Mushrooms. Fowl manure should 
not be used. What you should, do is to get 
together a heap of horse droppings and put 
them up in a heap to ferment, turning the 
heajD every third day till some of the ex¬ 
cessive heat passes out of it. It might be ex¬ 
amined on the second day to see that it is not 
heating too violently, and to avoid that it 
should’ be levelled down till the heap is not 
of great depth. Make up a bed of these drop¬ 
pings at the end of a week or ten days, 
treading down the manure equally until it 
forms a bed on the floor of the house about 
12 in. thick. Then cover it with a layer 
of soil and beat this down with the back of 
the spade after the bed has been spawned. 
If you are successful the bed should com¬ 
mence bearing in the course of six weeks. 
There are several items necessary to success 
in making up a Mushroom bed, and one is 
the manure should not be taken from stables 
where the horses have recently had medi¬ 
cine. While fermenting the manure it 
should not be made too wet, otherwise it 
may spoil the result. 
2090. Potatos for Exhibition. 
Please say what good points you look for 
in Potatos intended for exhibition. I in¬ 
tend to compete at our local show, and there 
are classes for three, two and one dishes 
of potatos, as well as classes for vegetables 
in which potatos may be shown. (T. Tocks- 
ley, Mon.) 
The tubers should all be selected of equal 
size as nearly as possible. Shapely tubers 
should also be secured, that is,' smooth and 
even skinned, instead of being angled or 
furnished with outgrowths as a result of 
second growth. The eyes should be few and 
shallow. Needless to say, the Potatos should 
be free from disease, scab and spot. They 
will also have more weight on the show- 
board if properly washed, so that the skin 
may present a clean and clear appearance. 
FRUIT. 
2091. Scales on. Apple Trees. 
The Apple sprig enclosed has got scales 
all over it and curled leaves. I have seve¬ 
ral young trees infested in the same man¬ 
ner. Gould you please tell me a remedy 
for it? (Warratah, Devon.) 
You are mistaken in supposing that the 
stem of the Apple had got scales on it. They 
were merely what is botanically known as 
lentioels, and were really breathing pores, 
and therefore not the cause of the unhealthy 
appearance of your Apple trees. On the 
other hand, the leaves had been attacked by 
the Apple aphis (Aphis Mali) in the early 
part of their growth, causing them to curl. 
The best plan would have been to have 
washed the trees with strong soapy water 
to which some tobacco juice had been.added. 
If the trees had been sprayed or syringed 
with this so as to destroy the aphides the 
leaves would not now be presenting the 
damaged appearance. By this time most of 
the aphides have completed their season’s 
work and left the trees, at least this was 
the case with the specimens sent us. 
2092. Late Strawberry. # 
Kindly give me the name of a late Straw¬ 
berry of good flavour, as it is required for 
dessert purposes only. -(Delta, Surrey.) 
One of the best late varieties of Straw¬ 
berry is Givon’s Late Prolific, the result of 
a cross between Waterloo and Latest of All. 
The flesh is firm, of the richest flavour, 
and the plant is free fruiting. The berry 
is lighter in colour than Waterloo, and the 
flavour better. Another late variety is Lax- 
ton’s Latest, which ripens a week later than 
Waterloo. The colour is deep rich crimson, 
though not" so dark as Waterloo. One of 
the old late varieties is Elton Pine, of ex¬ 
cellent flavour, but rather a small berry. 
2093. Gooseberry Losing Its Leaves. 
Herewith I beg to send for your inspection 
a cutting from a Gooseberry tree, from 
which the leaves and the fruit have dropped 
off within the last week or two. I should 
be obliged if you could advise me as to the 
cause and cure of the complaint from which 
the tree is suffering. Do you publish an 
index on the completion of each volume of 
The Gardening World? (E. J. E., Essex.) 
We examined the shoots, leaves and ber¬ 
ries that you sent us, but we failed to find 
any evidence of disease. The berries are 
quite clear on the skin, but they have been 
shrivelling and dying for some time past 
for lack of moisture. IA other words they 
have simply been starved to death. What 
is really the matter can best be determined 
on the spot by ascertaining whether the stem 
has decayed between the dying shoots and 
the base. If there is no evidence of injury 
to the stem we should suspect that some¬ 
thing has happened to the roots, and that 
they are all dead and unable to supply the 
fruit and leaves with sap. We have seen 
similar instances, but it was incidental only 
to the individual and not in any way in¬ 
fectious. We publish an index of The 
Gardening World at the end of December 
each year. 
2094. Pruning Espalier Trees. 
Can you advise me in your Gardening 
World as to the proper cutting of the Es¬ 
palier trees? Mine have not done at all 
well this year, some had no blossom on at 
all. I do not think they were cut right last 
autumn. Also can you tell me the cause 
and remedy for the tips of the branches of 
the Apple trees dying. Three trees in the 
orchard are dying down at the tips, and as 
I am quite an amateur in fruit growing I 
should be glad of advice. (L. E. C., Kent.) 
Espalier trees should be pruned like those 
upon walls. You should, of course, get 
fruit from the short lateral spurs upon the 
branches. All the long leafy shoots that 
grow away from the wires should be pruned 
to one or two good buds at the base in win¬ 
ter. Your assistant should take care not to 
prune away any flower buds produced on 
these spurs. It would be well not to com¬ 
mence pruning until winter is well ad¬ 
vanced, so that the thick, swollen flower buds 
can be readily seen. If the trees have not 
yet filled the allotted space the leaders 
should, of course, be shortened back to one 
or two-thirds of their length according to 
their strength, and the portion left closely ; 
tied in. You might have sent us some of 
the tips of the branches of the Apple trees 5 
in the orchard which you say are dying i 
back. We suspect that the roots of your 
trees are in a wet or ungenial soil, causing 
them to grow late in the season, and pos¬ 
sibly to have unripened wood which gets , 
more or less injured or killed during the 1 
winter. Such injured branches are just as | 
likely as not to contract the disease known I 
as canker. Such diseased portions should ! 
be cut off and burned to reduce the malady 
as much as possible, but you should see 
whether the land requires any draining or 
whether they made growth late in the season 
which did not ripen well. That also would 
indicate that the roots are in ungenial soil. 
If this was the case a gardener would soon 
remedy the matter by draining the land or 
lifting the trees and root pruning them if 
the case required it. But if you have no 
skilled help we could scarcely advise you 
to employ an unskilled hand to lift and 
replant old trees. Such a hand could, of 
course, be trusted to drain the land if the \ 
drains are put down the middle line be- 1 
tween the trees in the orchard ; that is, if 
the land is wet and really requires 
drainage. 
2095. Nectarines Cracking. 
iCould you pieage let me know through 
your paper the reason why the enclosed Nee- i 
tarines are cracking? This tree was affected 1 
with scale last year, and I noticed some on : 
early this year, but I painted with diluted 
nicotine extract. Those fruits towards the 
top of the tree are all right. Those nearest i 
the^ld wood in the centre are most affected. 
(Nectarine, Lancs.) 
We examined the Nectarines you sent us 1 
and find the skins very much discoloured! 
and quite black in places. It seems to us , 
that the fruits have been subjected to some j 
unfair treatment such as a cold draught ^ 
blowing upon the tender skin of the fruit ■ 
after the house had been kept rather close j 
and warm for some time. If that is not 
likely to have been the case, then it is pos- 1 
sible the skin of the fruit was injured by 
some insecticide which you have been using. 
When the skin of young fruits has been 
injured in this way it is unable to grow 
fast enough when the fruit takes the second 
swelling after stoning. As a result of this 
it splits open. These are matters to think; 
over, as knowing the conditions that have, 
prevailed you mav happen upon the ri<ht ' 
cause of the trouble. It would be well also^ 
to ascertain the condition of the border to,. 
