August 24, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD, 
565 
resembling Mrs. Charles Mander, but 
with wings of a more brilliant colour, it 
seems quite the better of the two. Hanna 
Dale is about the best fixed maroon I 
have seen; it may be described as an im¬ 
proved Othello, but less hooded. The 
variety that has been called White 
Spencer is distinct from Etta Dyke, and 
to my mind hardly so good. It is slightly 
touched with pink, especially in the 
young stage. Mrs. Ireland is a waved 
bicolor of which much should be heard 
in the future. 
Dobbies also had a row of St. George 
(Hurst’s Queen of Spain). This is the 
Silver Medal variety for 1907. It has 
been variously described, some speaking 
of it as being waved, but this is not so. 
It is really an improved and large 
flowered form of Evelyn Byatt, and is a 
most brilliant flower. Like every other 
variety of its colour, it burns a little, but 
not so much as might be expected. This 
variety is satisfactorily fixed. 
G. F. Drayson. 
-*+>- 
Hardy Fuchsias. 
Several of the introduced species of 
Fuchsia and a few garden varieties have 
been grown in this country for many 
years, and are therefore known to be 
hardy. They give most satisfaction, how¬ 
ever, as a rule, on the sea coast where 
the climate is mild and equable in winter. 
The most hardy one is Fuchsia Riccar- 
toni, a garden hybrid, and another one, 
F. macrostemma, is a species from the 
Straits of Magellan and the surrounding 
district. Under certain systems of culti¬ 
vation these two can be grown in any part 
of Britain, and we have seen them 
flourishing • even in the Highlands of 
Perthshire. The flowers of all these are 
relatively small, though the red stems, 
green foliage and profusion of flowers are 
certainly very handsome when well grown. 
At a recent meeting of the Royal Hor¬ 
ticultural Society a collection of hardy 
Fuchsias was exhibited consisting of gar¬ 
den varieties chiefly, which are improve¬ 
ments upon the originals in having larger 
flowers. Some of them were very hand¬ 
some, especially F. Riccartoni Elsie, 
which has a blue corolla fading to purple 
and red stems. The flowers are much 
larger than the type, and produced in 
abundance, making highly ornamental 
bushes. Next in importance was F. coc- 
cinea Floraine, which is really a variety 
of F. macrostemma, and not the true F. 
coccinea of Aiton. This has a corolla 
about 1 in. long and violet-purple with 
scarlet sepals and red stems. A dwarfer 
plant suitable for bedding purposes was 
F. myrtifolia minor, with purple corolla, 
scarlet sepals and red stems. The plant 
is bushy and grows 12 in. to 15 in. high. 
A plant named F. americana elegans 
has purple corolla, scarlet sepals, red 
stems and small leaves in pairs. It seems 
to be an improvement upon F. macro¬ 
stemma. F. Enfant Prodigue has double 
purple flowers, scarlet sepals and red 
stems, but the plant is scarcely so grace¬ 
ful as those above-named. An old plant 
well known in some southern gardens and 
the Channel Islands is F. Mme. Corneill- 
son. It has a double white corolla, witi. 
scarlet sepals and large leaves with rtl. 
stems. The exhibitor was Mr. L. R. Rus¬ 
sell R’chmond, Surrey. 
.August, being rich arrayed 
In garment all of gold. 
Spenser. 
Years ago before the enrichment of our 
gardens with the glorious H.T.’s and the 
delightful ramblers of the wichuraiana 
class this period of the year used to find 
the Rose-garden merely a green flower¬ 
less aftermath. Even nowadays one 
rather expects a lull during this month, 
especially if the two preceding months 
have been hot and dry. But this season 
the continual drip and absence of sun 
have encouraged the plants to grow 
freely, with the result that to-day (Aug. 
10th) my Rose-garden is almost as full 
of bfeauty as it was in mid-July. Of 
course, a goodly number of blooms have 
been spoilt by damp, but many varieties 
seem to be enjoying this unpleasant 
season. 
My tall standards of Hiawatha, only 
budded last season, are blossoming gaily, 
and have made prodigious growth. In 
brilliancy of colour this Rose far sur¬ 
passes any other rambler that I am ac¬ 
quainted with, moreover its foliage is ex¬ 
tremely light and pretty. Anna Rubsa- 
men is another wichuraiana with which I 
am well pleased. It is a cross between the 
type and a Sweet Brier, I should imagine, 
for its flowers possess the Sweet Brier fra¬ 
grance exactly. The blooms are quite 
double, a soft pearly pink in colour, and 
most freely produced. It lacks, however, 
the shiny foliage so characteristic of the 
tvpe. Lady Gay and Minnehaha are the 
other wichuraiana varieties that I think 
most highly of. They should never be 
planted against hot walls. 
Gapterbury - 
— — Bells. 
Everyone having a garden should grow 
some of these. They have so much to re¬ 
commend them. Not the least is their di¬ 
versified colour and form of blooms. The 
most fastidious in this way can find a 
colour to fit them. Another merit is the 
ease of their cultivation. Added to this 
their fine mass of colour and simple out¬ 
line. In early summer few things are 
more beautiful, and to be had at so small 
a cost. 
I have found no time so suitable to sow 
them as late in June and early in July. 
Our custom is sowing in boxes, placing 
in cold frame', or -in the open, covering 
with' something to keep the soil moist to 
oL‘ris.te watering as much as possible. 
Wfcca large enough to handle (and 
grow rapidly) they are pricked out 
From now until the middle of Septem¬ 
ber dwarf stocks may be budded, but the 
sooner the better. The sap is running 
very freely now, and there should there¬ 
fore be a good percentage of successes. 
Before commencing to bud these dwarf 
stocks it is necessary to remove the soil 
around their collars with a trowel. They 
should be budded just below the point at 
which the growths break, i.e., on the stem, 
and this must be first of all cleaned by 
rubbing it with a piece of old cloth so as 
to free it from earth. In order to bud 
the stocks in comfort it will be found 
necessary to cut away some of their 
numerous growths. It should, however, 
be borne in mind that no more should be 
removed than can be helped. After bud¬ 
ding the stocks should not be earthed up 
again as it is much better for the bud to 
remain exposed to the air, nor is it neces¬ 
sary to remove the ties, as in the case of 
standards, for, being close to the ground, 
they very quickly rot and loosen them¬ 
selves naturally. In the case of a bud 
failing it is often quite easy to rebud the 
stock a little lower down. I have, how¬ 
ever, found a considerable difficulty in 
trying to rebud stocks that have failed on 
the other side. 
Roses upon walls and arches must now 
have their new growths carefully tied in. 
After rain the hoe should be freely used to 
prevent the ground from setting hard. 
Mildew is particularly troublesome, and 
must be kept in check by the use of 
sprayer and syringe. 
Arthur Goodwin. 
Worcestershire. 
on an open border 6 ins. apart. In the 
autumn these may be removed to their 
blooming positions (or they may be pricked 
out of box to their blooming places). 
Nothing can be more hardy. They need 
a foot each way to do them well. I find 
they enjoy a good loam, being strong 
growers, taking much out of the soil. 
Another purpose they are most useful 
for is pot culture. The best way is to 
pot them from the open ground in 
autumn, using a good soil and giving 
frame protection in winter. Some grow 
them from the seedling state in pots; by 
so doing they need much feeding. When 
in 6 or 7 in. pots and well grown few things 
are more lovely; they outdistance much 
of the material grown under glass in high 
temperatures. Personally I prefer the 
single kinds, although the doubles are 
much thought of by many. To me the 
kinds catalogued under Calycanthemas 
are best, the kind of cup-and-saucer-like 
flowers are more elegant. I have seen 
these used with the best results for cut¬ 
ting. The double white are best for floral 
work. 
Con. 
