592 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
September 7, 1907. 
from 5 to 10 degrees higher than that of 
the above-mentioned section. The miniature 
and botanical, or small-flowered kinds, are 
very beautiful and most interesting sub¬ 
jects. These are best grown in shallow pans 
and, like M. Chiimaera, should be suspended 
close to the roof glass. The whole require 
liberal root moisture at all seasons with 
normal outside conditions prevailing. 
H. J. Chapman. 
-- 
The Hampton Court Vine. 
The great Vine at Hampton Court 
Palace, which is 139 years old, is now 
bearing a crop of nearly -300 bunches. 
The fruit is excellent in size and colour, 
and cutting for the King's table will be 
commenced at the end of this month. 
A Large Orchid. 
On August 20th a very fine specimen in 
healthy condition of Laeldocattleya elegans 
was shown at the Horticultural Hall by 
Major Holford, C.I.E., C.V.O. (grower, Mr. 
H. G. Alexander), Westonbirt, Tetbury, 
Glos. The plant was grown in a large tub 
and carried twenty-seven or more spikes of 
flowers, most of which were in full bloom. 
Where large collections of Orchids are 
grown there is seldom space to afford for 
the cultivation of such large plants, but 
Major Holford is an enthusiastic lover of 
Orchids and bis gardener knows how to 
grow them. 
-- 
-CUT- 
Flowering Shrubs 
Vases. 
Nothing is more beautiful than large 
sprays of these cut and placed in large 
vases. Frequently these need nothing to 
be added in the way of foliage. During 
this spring I have been impressed with 
their value in this way from seeing large 
vases of flowering Currant, and, by the 
way, this is improved when the red and 
pink colours are mingled. The yellow 
kind is most ornamental in this way, and 
to be regretted that it is not more grown. 
Darwin’s Barberry I saw magnificent, 
cut 3 to 4 feet long, standing on a high 
position; also Forsvthia, the early bloom¬ 
ing Daphne, and some of the Spiraeas. 
Recently I saw a most ornamental vase 
filled with shoots of the long slender wh'te 
Spiraea Thunbergi and shoots of the red 
Dogwood (although leafless) mingfed 
well with the white one and some foliage 
of the Mahonia. Many other things may 
be named equally good. The astonish¬ 
ing thing is how few people obtain the 
beauty they may for vase filling from the 
open garden, while others seem to be 
able to utilise these to the full. During 
the four first months in this year I have 
been observing how fleeting many of the 
things are grown under glass compared to 
those from the open. Those visiting the 
shows of the R.H.S. in spring have many 
object lessons from the fine collections of 
cut shrubs, etc. 
J. C. F. 
The American, Tree, and Perpetual, 
Winter Flowering Carnation. 
Their Culture for Exhibition by Amateurs. 
Just as the winter-flowering Begonia has 
risen in popularity within the last few 
years and has become quite a recognised 
side show, as it may be termed, at a great 
many Chrysanthemum societies’ exhibi¬ 
tions, so no doubt will the winter-flowering 
or perpetual Carnation also become a 
most useful and popular flower at most of 
these winter exhibitions, especially now 
that a recognised Winter-Flowering Car¬ 
nation Society has been formed and has 
held its first and most successful exhibi¬ 
tion. Though practically speaking a 
young beginner with the culture of these 
flowers, I will endeavour to give in these 
few short notes my experience, so that it 
may be some little help to others. Some 
time ago I had the pleasure of hearing 
Mr. Montague C. Allwood (the well known 
American expert and grower to Messrs. 
Hugh Low and Co., of Enfield) lecture 
upon these beautiful subjects, and anyone 
who has heard him cannot fail to become 
an enthusiastic cultivator, such is his 
praise and worship of what he justly terms 
the queen of winter flowers. 
With certain conveniences it is quite 
possible to get quite a long succession of 
these Carnations, indeed the term per¬ 
petual which is usually applied to this sec¬ 
tion means a long period of flowering. 
This succession is better ensured if propa¬ 
gation takes place at varying periods. 
Cuttings may be inserted in the summer 
or winter, but if bottom heat can be ob¬ 
tained, from January to March inclusive 
is probably the best time, as then strong 
plants to flower early can be had in the 
shortest time. 
If propagation is to take place at this 
time, first give careful attention to the 
choice of cuttings; short, sturdy side 
shoots should be secured. These may be 
pulled off the parent plant. Pare the 
heel smooth, and remove just the lower 
leaves. They should be inserted round 
the edges of 4 inch pots, just clear of each 
other, using a compost of good loam, leaf 
mould, and plenty of silver sand. The 
surface should also be covered with sand. 
They can be, and are, propagated in sil¬ 
ver sand alone. The compost or sand 
should always be kept in a moist condi¬ 
tion, but not too wet. Extremes, wet or 
dry, are dangerous, as they cause the cut¬ 
tings to damp off, or else shrivel up. 
Plunge the pots up to the rims in cocoa- 
nut fibre in a propagating frame, or under 
sheets of glass, a top heat of 60 degrees 
is most suitable, the glass should be re¬ 
moved each day, and all moisture that 
condenses on it wiped off. 
When the cuttings are rooted and grow¬ 
ing freely they should be potted off singly 
in small pots. Care should be taken not 
to disturb the roots more than can pos¬ 
sibly be helped. By careful handling 
the clump can be separated so that each 
plant has a-small ball of soil attached to 
it. The plants will not all be of one 
size, therefore the largest may go into 
3 inch pots and the smaller pne§ ipto 
thumbs. A compost of good loam, with 
a little leaf mould or dried manure should 
be used, a little charcoal mi'xed in would 
also prove advantageous. When potted 
off they should be placed on a shelf near 
the glass, in a temperature of 60 degrees. 
When growing freely remove to cooler 
quarters, a temperature of 45 to 50 degrees 
being very suitable. In about 12 weeks 
or a little more from the time of inserting 
the cuttings the plants will be ready for 
a little larger pot, there is no hard and 
fast rule as to exact time, everyone must 
judge for himself, but when the roots are 
beginning to twist round the sides of the 
pot, the time is at hand to give them a 
shift. From thumbs they may go into 
4 inch and from 6o’s into 5 inch or 48 size 
pots, using a compost as advised before. 
Pot firmly and place the plants in cold 
frames on a bed of cinders. Water in 
with a fine-rosed can. They should be 
kept close for a few days, but afterwards 
plenty of air must be given. They should 
be carefully examined daily to see that 
none suffer from drought. 
When about 5 or 6 inches high, pick 
out the growing point ; the side shoots will 
then begin to develop. Should all go 
along well, in about 2 months from now, 
the plants should be ready for their flower¬ 
ing pots, which may be 6 inch or 7 inch, 
according to the size and vigour of the 
plants. As the summer will now be with 
us, the plants will not need any glass, al¬ 
though they will be none the worse for 
being in a frame for a few days after being 
potted. Subsequently they should be 
placed in an open position out of doors, 
with a little shelter from cold winds if it 
can be provided ; but on no account rob 
the plants of any sunshine. The pots 
may be partially plunged in ashes, which 
will save a deal of watering. 
When the plants are in full growth 
again, they may be topped once more, and 
this should be the last, unless the varieties 
grown are naturally very late bloomers; 
in lhat case another topping may be 
given. The topping will ensure a sturdy 
bushy plant; one or two side shoots may 
be allowed at the base, but those higher 
up should be removed. A vigorous flower 
stem will then push up. A neat stake 
2 or ; feet long should be placed to each 
plant, the main stem tied to this and the 
side shoots neatly looped up with raffia. 
Two of the main things to be borne in 
mind are : — Absolute cleanliness and no 
coddling. 
Manures :—Scientifically speaking the 
Carnation contains a proportion of potash, 
therefore a little potash would be the most 
suitable fertiliser; care should, however, 
be taken to only apply this in small 
quantities. A little weak soot water I 
have also proved to be very beneficial. 
Now as to the actual exhibiting, there 
is not the slightest doubt that these lovely 
flowers look best arranged in tall narrow 
vases, their long stems showing them off 
to great advantage, and arranged so that 
